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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
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Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Mountaineers for 2002 to 2005. The items that you'll for this are a new front hub from 1AAuto.com; a 14, 15, 18, 19 and 30mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; 5mm Allen bit or Allen wrench; flat blade screwdriver; jack and jack stands; and torque wrench.
Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry off the center cap. Once it comes off some you can just put your fingers underneath and pull it off. Then, use a 30mm socket to loosen up that center hub nut and remove it with a ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage. You can also use a larger breaker bar. If you have the benefit of air tools, you can do this step later as you'll see us do but we're just showing you how to do this in the beginning. Here you'd also want to loosen the lug nuts up with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or ratchet and pipe. We're just going to speed it up here. We've raised and secured the vehicle and we're using a ratchet or an air gun to remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.
Now, just open up this clip with a flat blade screwdriver. You just have to pry the tab and pull it open. Then just pry the harness out of this clip and pull it out of these three. Then you want to remove these two 14mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does that. Now using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry right here and that will push the piston in on the caliper and make it easier to pull the caliper off, do it again down here, and pull the caliper free. Then you want to set it up and out of the way so we're just going to put it up here. Just to make sure it doesn't fall down use a wire tie to just secure it up there.
Now, pry out your brake pads. The best way to tell the life left in your pads: this little slot right here is a wear mark so you can see it pretty much goes away once you have about an 1/8 of an inch of pads left. Like I said before, these pads have quite a bit of life left on them.
Now, remove these two 18mm bolts. You can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. When you pull out the last bolt, the caliper bracket pulls free. Now pull your rotor off.
Now up here, you just want to reach down here behind your radiator reservoir and just push on the tab on this harness and pull the harness free. Then just open up this clip up here with a flat blade screwdriver and pull the harness down.
Now if you don't have air powered tools, you want to remove this 30mm nut with the tire on and the wheel on the ground. If you do have air powered tools, you can remove it right now. Then just make sure the axle moves in and out. Then come back here and you want to remove these three 15mm bolts. We're just going to start off by spraying them with some penetrating oil and then using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, just break them free and remove them. Now a tip on these: I start with 1/2 inch sized tools which are larger, heavier duty tools and once I get them loose I switch to 3/8 inch drive tools which are smaller and get in to the area a little better. It makes it a lot easier if you just turn your wheel so that you can get better access to this bolt back here.
Tap the hub with a hammer until it starts to move out. We realize that we have a bolt still in the hub a little bit so we're just going to remove that and then pull the hub free. We'll push the axle out of it.
On the left is the old hub. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly same. Take your new hub and push it onto the axle with the ABS harness on the top and then just push it back into place. When you have it lined up, just replace those three 15mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque each of those to 75 foot-pounds. Now we're just going to use our old clips, so we're just going to pry off the new clips and you could always just pry out your old clips and push these ones into place. Ours are in good condition so we're just going to use them. Feed the harness back up and get it up over the control arm and then just clip it back into that clip and push it back up into place. Replace the hub nut and just tighten that up preliminarily.
Take your rotor and push it into place and then replace a lug nut just to hold it there while you reassemble the caliper bracket and caliper. Now take your caliper bracket, line it up and then just replace those two 18mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 85 foot-pounds.
Just push your brake pads back into place and it helps if you just apply some brake grease to the tabs to help them go back in. Now remove your wire tie and pull your caliper back down. Move the C-stand and the brake pad and the caliper piston is pushed all the way in. Then take your caliper and push it back into place over your brake pads. You want to make sure that those slides push down underneath and line up. Once they're lined up, replace those two 14mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 25 foot-pounds.Then just push this back into those three clips, and then back into this bracket, and then close that final clip.
Wipe down any dirt that may have gotten on your rotor while replacing the caliper and then remove that lug nut, replace your wheel and then replace all of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way and then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now torque that hub nut to 180 foot-pounds. Now replace your hub cap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.
Then just grab your harness up here and push it back into the connector until it clicks.
Whenever you've done any work on your brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this are new brake pads and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; a 14, 18 and 19mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage; a flat blade screwdriver; a hammer; jack and jack stands; a torque wrench; a large C clamp; brake grease; and a wire brush.
Pry off the hubcap by using a flat blade screwdriver in the small slot on the side. Once you get it started, you can just pull out around the edges. We'll just fast forward as Mike removes those 19mm lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen them while the vehicle is on the ground, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Now you can pull the wheel free.
You want to just inspect your brakes. Just take your fingernail and go up and down. You're feeling for any grooves. Small grooves are okay, but anything that really gets your fingernail stuck in there or anything is a little too much. You want to either replace your rotors or turn them down. Do the same thing on the back side. You can see the inner pad here. That's got some pretty good life left on it. Then the outer pad, if you look right here, you see between the metal here and the rotor. There's good life on that. The brakes are actually in really good shape on this, but we're going to take them off and put them back on to show you how to do it.
Now just open up this clip with a flat blade screwdriver. You just have to pry the tab and pull it open. Just pry the harness out of this clip and pull it out of these three. Then you want to remove these two 14mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does that. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry right here and that will push the piston in on the caliper and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Do it again down here and pull the caliper free. You want to set it up and out of the way so we're just going to put it up here. Just to make sure it doesn't fall down, use a wire tie to just secure it up there. Now pry out your brake pads. The best way to tell the life left in your pads is this little slot right here is a wear mark, so you can see it pretty much goes away once you have about an eighth of an inch of pads left. Like I said before, these pads have quite a bit of life left on them.
Now remove these two 18mm bolts. You can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. When you pull out the last bolt the caliper bracket pulls free. Pull your rotor off.
Take your rotor and push it into place and then replace a lug nut just to hold it there while you reassemble the caliper bracket and caliper. If your new brake pads do not come with any new slides, you'll want to wire brush off the slides. If they do, then you can just pull the old slides off and then clip the new slides into place. Make sure your caliper bolts slide in and out easily. You can see the top one does. This one does not, so we pull it out. You want to just pull this boot off and then clean up the slide. Take some brake grease and just apply it all over the bolt. Slide the boot back on and then slide it back into your caliper bracket. You may have to repeat that two or three times until it slides nicely. Each time you put it in and take it out it will take some more dirt out. Now, using mineral spirits or brake cleaner, just wipe down the rotor.
Now take your caliper bracket, line it up and then just replace those two 18mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 85 foot-pounds.
Next put a little grease on the ear here and here, and some grease here just to keep the squeaking down. These tabs really hold it in place, so you could just take your finger, bend them down a little bit. It helps get in there a little bit. Then take the pads and kind of go in diagonally, so they go up against those ears. Push in. The top went in but the bottom just needs a little more convincing. For the back one, put some grease on the ends and some grease on the outer face. Let's see, just kind of put it in diagonally. I use my hammer just to kind of tap it in. Now remove your wire tie and pull your caliper back down. Then take one of your old brake pads and then just use the large C-clamp to push in those pistons on the caliper. Then just remove the C-clamp and the brake pads when the caliper pistons are pushed all the way in. Then take your caliper and push it back into place over your brake pads. You want to make sure that those slides push down underneath and line up.
Once they're lined up, replace those two 14mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 25 foot-pounds. Then just push this back into those three clips and then back into this bracket and then close that final clip. Wipe down any dirt you may have gotten on your rotor while replacing the caliper and then remove that lug nut, replace your wheel, then replace all the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you'd want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way, then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now replace your hubcap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.
Whenever you've done any work on your brakes you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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