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Raybestos Element 3 New Brake Caliper
Item Condition:
New
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1 A Auto. I want to help you save time and money, repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience, restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1 aauto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to be doing a front brake job on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe. We show you obviously, the passenger side and the drivers side is going to be the same. Always replace your brakes in pairs. This is the same for the Tahoe, Suburban, and also the CK Pickups, Chevy and GMC alike. Tools you'll need are: jack and jack stands, a 22millimeter socket with a ratchet, or your tire iron, a 3/8 Allen wrench, combination wrench, a large hammer, wire brush, grease, as well as a torque wrench.
Start by removing your wheel. If you have a center cap or the lug covers, take them off carefully and then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools or impact tools as I do, you'll want to start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up, secure it and remove the lug nuts and the wheel. You can see our outer pad is actually getting a little bit thin, and on the front side, the disc is in pretty good shape, if you run your finger on it. On the back side there is a pretty good groove, we'll see what that's all about when we take it off. You want to take a large screwdriver or a pry bar and what happens is that as your brakes wear, the piston, right here, comes out of your caliper. To get your brakes apart, it helps if you force that piston back in. I'm taking a screwdriver and prying out on the caliper, and you can see that that forces the piston back in. With a good sized screwdriver, you can actually reset your pistons, pretty much all the way.
We want to remove the calipers, and back here, there are two 3/8s Allen bolts, one here and one right down here. I've got my 3/8s Allen wrench, I'm going to put it in, make sure it goes into the bolt as far as possible, then I'm going to use a regular crescent wrench on there for some extra leverage. Pull, ok, same thing for the top. I'm going to fast forward here as I finish removing those two bolts. Once you've got the bolts back out, your caliper comes off. You see your pads, the inside one just pulls right out. On the other one, put a screwdriver right in here, twist it and it comes right out. On your caliper, the bolts go through these sleeves, and those sleeves should slide pretty nice and easily. If they don't, you can use an extension and force them out, go easy though, you don't want to push too hard and have them fly right out, like that. You want to inspect these and see how worn they are. You can wire brush these, if there's some build up on them, you can wire brush these and reinstall them with a little bit of grease. This one was really difficult, this one here, I'm pushing much easier and takes a lot less to force it out.
If you want to better reset the pistons on your caliper, what you can do is put your old pad back in, take a C clamp, put it in place, tighten the clamp up, you will force that piston in the rest of the way. To remove the rotor, be very careful not to hit your studs, and if want to, you can put the lug nuts back on, that will help protect the studs from getting damaged. Usually a good hit breaks it loose. You can see on the backside, there's quite a bit of uneven wear. We will replace these rotors. New rotor from 1 A Auto, going on, in place. I like to put a lug nut right on, just to hold things where they should be.
You'll notice I'm working with new calipers. The owner of this vehicle wanted a new set put on the truck. Not always necessary, but make sure you reset the pistons, also check those sleeves, like I showed you earlier in the video, make sure the sleeves that the bolts go through are sliding nicely in the caliper. Take your inside pad, put it down in and press it in. Your outer pad, kind of slide it right down in. Just going to make sure these two shafts are back in at their starting point, looks like they're out a little bit.
I'm going to hit fast forward here. Put the bolts through, you might have to move the calipers a little back and forth to get them started. Use your Allen wrench to start them most of the way until you get them seeded. With an Allen wrench of this size, I'm basically pull it as tight as I can with that, should be about 25 to 30 foot pounds. Now you can remove that lug nut you have holding the disc on. Put your wheel on, start all your lug nuts by hand, then use a wrench to torque them, or tighten them preliminarily. Set the vehicle back down on the ground, and torque your lug nuts to 100 to 120 foot pounds. Put your cap back on, just use a socket to secure those caps. Very lastly and most importantly, make sure you pump your brakes and get a good firm brake pedal before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Now, I'm gonna remove these two caliper bolts. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And take those bolts out. Just like that, and slide the caliper off. If you have to, you can take a screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver and just pry a little bit between the rotor, and then that'll just push the pads in, the piston in a little bit. And take a break caliper hanger, and just hang the brake caliper somewhere. Now we'll take the brake pads off.
Just so the rotor doesn't come off, I'm just gonna take a lug nut and just put it on backwards, just to secure the rotor on there. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bracket bolts out. And slide the bracket off. Take the new caliper bracket, just take a little thin coat of brake caliper grease just on that area right there and over here. And take these brake caliper slides, line these up, push those down and another thin coat of grease right there and right there. Do the same for the other side. Take the caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor. You can take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on the bolts and get those started. And torque those bolts to 129 foot-pounds.
Now we can take the brake pads. Now, the warning indicators on the outboard pad has two indicators and the one on the inboard pad only has one. And for the passenger side, you wanna make sure that indicator goes down and same with the driver's side. You want that indicator on the bottom. Now, take the brake caliper itself and line that up. And you wanna make sure that the brake caliper has the bleeder at the top. If you have the bleeder at the bottom, then you're on the wrong side. And caliper goes on the opposite side. And take the caliper guide pins or bolts. Get those started. You can put a little brake grease on these pins as well.
And this happens to be a different fastener than what we use to remove it, it's a T55. And then torque these two bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Before we transfer the brake hose over, just take this banjo bolt out and there's a couple of washes on here, and we're gonna switch these washers over. And then also the bleeder, just take this little cap off, and loosen this up. Use a 10-millimeter wrench. Now, double-check your brake hose. Make sure there's no cracking in the brake hose itself. And this one looks pretty good. It's always a good idea to replace the brake hose when you're replacing a caliper, but sometimes you don't have a choice. And then I'm gonna use an 11-millimeter socket and take this banjo bolt out.
And make sure your brake reservoir actually has a good amount of brake fluid in it because you're gonna lose some. So take the old banjo bolt off and take the seals off. Now it looks good. And then take the new banjo bolt with one of the washers on one side and put the other washer on the opposite side of the brake line, or brake hose, and get that started into the caliper. And it goes on this way. There is this little square at the bottom, has to line up properly with the brake hose going up. And tighten this down. And torque this bolt to 30 foot-pounds.
Now, you can let this gravity bleed a little bit. Most of the brake fluid's gonna come through the system, push all the air out of the caliper and then you can snug this leader up. At this point, you can bleed the brakes normally. So when you bleed the brakes, you're gonna want someone else to pump the pedal for you as you open and close the bleeder. So if you have, start by having them pump the pedal until it gets hard because it's gonna be a big air gap in between the brake caliper piston and the brake pad itself. And then have them hold it. All right, go ahead, hold it. As they're holding the breakdown, open the bleeder. Some of the air just shot out and then close it up. All right, pump it again. Have them pump it three times and then hold it. And then open the bleeder screw, slowly. Some more air came out.
All right, tighten that up again. All right, go ahead, pump it. All right. And then open it up again. And that looked nice and clean, no air. So that should be good. Snug that up. Go ahead. Pump it. All right. If it feels good, you're all set. You can do the same with the other ones. Put that cap back on and you can clean up some of that brake fluid. You could use some soapy water or some brake parts cleaner. Right now I can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back on. Lug nuts on. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check. And check the brake fluid level after you're done and adjust accordingly. You wanna make sure you always maintain fluid in the reservoir while you're doing the procedure.
Tools used
Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove this center cover right here. This will expose those lug nuts. You can see six lug nuts. We're going to remove all six of them using a 22-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna take one lug nut, leave it on there just so the wheel can't fall off on me. Remove the wheel. Now, something that's super important to remember is you want to have some nice hand protection, eye protection, and a nice bucket to make sure you collect any of that fluid that might come out. You want to make sure you're safe. The next thing we're going to do is take some of these line pinchers. You definitely don't want to use vise grips, and we're going to just pinch off the flow of brake fluid going down the brake hose, and now we can continue. The next thing we're going to do is bounce around a little bit. And the reason why I said that is because what we're going to do is break free this banjo bolt right here, but then we're going to snug it just a teeny bit so it's not leaking. At that point, we'll continue on to taking out the caliper sliders. And then, of course, we'll continue on by replacing or removing the banjo bolt and we won't have to worry about fluid coming out in case we have to give the caliper any bonks.
Okay. That broke free. It doesn't always break free easy like that, that's why I did that before I removed the sliders so the caliper is still nice and sturdy. Use your 3/8ths socket, it's an Allen head. I wanna go right inside here and you should be able to feel it lock in. There we are. We can move the caliper around now. Before we go too far, let's go ahead and remove this. Make sure you have that bucket lined up though because, more than likely, there's going to be some fluid either coming out of the hose still or even out of the reservoir area where the piston is in the caliper. Okay. It's ready to come out. You're going to notice that there should be two gaskets. Sometimes they stick to either the caliper or the banjo bolts or even the hose. So, now, if you look at this banjo bolt, you can see that there's a gasket still stuck on it. You need to remove that. You can use a pocket screwdriver if it doesn't come right off. Take a look inside that banjo bolt. We're going to set it aside. You'll notice that it has a hole, but the caliper actually usually comes with a new banjo bolt and with new gaskets. If you're replacing the caliper and your pads are worn and your rotors are worn, it's a good idea to replace the brakes at this time. Because if you're taking off the caliper, everything else is pretty much going to be falling right off. But if you're not, you will just take one of your lug nuts and put it on here so this holds the rotor up against the hub. That way there, it's less likely for any of the rust from inside the fins falling in between, and, of course, causing the wheel to be off-kilter making an imbalance or even worse.
So, now, your caliper should slide out. If it doesn't, it's probably catching right on here and there or even on the bottom side in the same areas. If you look inside the caliper, you can see the area where fluid's going to come out of. So, just make sure that you completely empty that out into the recycling bucket before you recycle the caliper itself. Okay. So, now I'm just gonna pull this slider out of here. You want to make sure that there's plenty of lubricant all along here and then, of course, inside the area where the two pieces flow together. Super important. If you need some, now's the time to put it in there before you install this into the vehicle. Okay. So, that looks good. Now I'm just gonna take this, I'm going to put it in, and I'm gonna do the same thing to the other side. So, you should notice that your sliders can move in and out. If they don't slide, then you need a little bit more lubricant at this point. It's also a good idea to put a tiny bit of lubricant around the piston right here, the contact point where it's going to connect onto your pad. And then along this ear and this ear right here, also in the same areas where it's going to be contacting the pad, that's going to help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Some people prefer to do this on the pad directly and they just coat the whole backside of the pad, which doesn't really make much sense because it's a lot of waste and it also accumulates a lot of debris.
Looking at your pads, you're going to notice there's a very big difference. This is going to be on the inside and this side will be on the outside with the ears. These little pins also face towards the top of the caliper, which is facing down right now. Push this down and slide that in. And then you would do the same to this right here. It should lock right in and it should not move around. Let's install this in the vehicle. It's a good idea to clean up this mating surface right here, where the caliper is going to be up near, and then this one right there. Once you're sure they're a nice smooth surface so the caliper can move around, because it does need to move around, you would just apply a thin amount of lubricant. Something to make sure that the metal doesn't, you know, build up any rust or rot or anything. Now it's time to install our cleaned and prepped caliper here. Let's put it right up on. Should slide over and should slide in nice and easy. If you notice the caliper did not want to slide in easy or it's stuck in these areas, you need to re-remove the caliper again and clean those areas. This feels good. It can move around. Push on those slider pins until they kind of seem like they fall into the holes. You can lift up or move around the caliper to line it up. And then, of course, just start it in and then do the same to the other one before you tighten either of them down. Now that we have them both started in, let's tighten them up.
Okay. That just bottomed out. At this point, I'm just going to take the ratchet and go a teeny bit more, and that's good right there. Do the same to the other one. Bottomed out, teeny bit more. Perfect. Now that both of those are nice and tight, we're going to move ahead to removing this orange plug right here. Don't discard it though because we're going to use it in the old caliper. There it is. That just kind of keeps out the debris and moisture so no contaminants make it inside the caliper before it gets to you. Now we're going to move along to installing our new banjo bolt and, of course, the new gaskets. Do not reuse your old gaskets. Take your banjo bolt, put one of the gaskets right on it. Go ahead and grab that hose, put the banjo bolt through like that, and then take your other gasket and put it back on the banjo bolt in between where the line is and the caliper is going to be. Now, we'll connect this in. Start it all in by hand to make sure there's no cross-threading. Now, we're going to tighten it up. Okay. It just bottomed out right there, you give it a teeny bit more. Give it a nice wiggle, make sure that it does not move around in any way. The reason why we tighten this up is because we wanted to make sure that we crush down those gaskets just a teeny bit. Obviously, we don't need to flatten them out to the point that they're going to crush and/or crack, we just wanted to give them that little bit. This feels great. Check your flex hose, make sure that it's not rubbing up against the upper control arm or anywhere near it, because as the suspension goes up and down, there's a potential that it could cause damage.
Let's remove this right here. Move along. So, now that we have the flex hose in here, you want to make sure that you gravity-bleed the system. To do that, you want to make sure that your master cylinder is full, of course, and then you're going to open up this bleeder screw and just watch as air comes out. As air finishes coming out, it should actually kind of turn into a solid amount of fluid and then we'll close it up and then we'll continue with the bleeding process. Looks like it's getting close. All right. So, the fluid's coming out. I'm gonna close this off. Okay. So, now we're gonna need a second person because they're gonna need to pump up the brake for us. They're going to pump it three to five times nice and slow. Then they're going to hold that brake pedal, they're going to let us know they're holding it, we'll open up the bleeder, we're gonna watch for air. Once we've done that and the fluid stops coming out, we're going to close it off. We'll bleed it a couple more times that way until we see no more air bubbles coming out. Okay. Just make sure this is tight. I've got my collection bucket. All right. Do you mind pumping up the brake? So, I'm watching that fluid. I saw a lot of fluid and very little bits of air. So, that's great. But we want to make sure that there's no air. Okay. Clear to pump.
That one looks really good. I didn't see very much air at all. Let's do it one more for good luck. Go ahead and pump. Oh yeah, this looks great. Okay. Let's close this off. Perfect. Clean up your mess. Make sure you put your bleeder screw cover back on there. That's very important. And then, of course, we'll get the wheel on there and torque it to manufacturer specifications. Let's get the wheel on here. Torque your lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's grab that center cover, make sure you line up the holes with the lug nuts, or else you're going to know it when you go to bonk it on. Perfect.
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