Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front & Rear 8 Piece Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56525

Okay, friends. The first thing you need to talk about anytime you're working on your vehicle is safety. You want hand and eye protection. With that said safely raise and support your vehicle so the wheels are off the ground. Once you've done that, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

Once you have the wheel off, it's important to remember that we're actually going to want to try to raise this up a little bit. We want to take the pressure off of your shock so it's not fully extended. If you were to try to take out this bolt right now, once you finally got it to almost the end, the suspension is going to want to drop and you might damage the threads inside of your knuckle. And now, we're gonna remove this bolt right here using a 21-millimeter socket. Next, we need to remove our two upper mounting nuts. Just remember when you remove these, there's going to be nothing holding your shock up. So, after you remove one, make sure you have full grasp on it. Go ahead and remove this from the vehicle. Next, we're going to remove this upper nut to get off the upper mounting from the shock. Every time I get shocks, I always like to charge them up before I install them. What I mean by that is to go ahead and press this down as far as it can go, let it completely come all the way up, and then repeat the process three to five times. Let's take our new shock. Take the nut off of there, and we'll remove both of these. Now, let's get our pieces on. We're going to put it just like this. Now, let's grab this piece, slide that right over. Put this facing in like that. And this right here. All right. Let's tighten this. Perfect.

Let's get ready for our install. You'll notice if you put this on backwards because the shock won't be at the right angle. Put on both those nuts, if you want to use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. We'll snug these up. Torque them to 18 foot-pounds. All right. Let's get our shock lined up here. Take your bolt, slide it through. Take your washer. Make sure you don't forget to put that in there. It's easy to forget. That on there. Okay. Now you might need to lift up or down on the shock to try to get it to line up. Now, let's torque this to 133 foot-pounds. Get our jack out of here. Wheel up on here. We'll start on the lug nuts and then we'll torque them down to 100 foot-pounds. Let's torque these to 100 foot-pounds in a criss-cross manner. Torqued.

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In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.

Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.

Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.

Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.

Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Okay, friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So, have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So, come right underneath here. This is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So, I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Okay. Now that we have the sway bar link off of here, we need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and remove the sway bar link from the strut as well. That way there, we can move the sway bar up and down as needed to get to that mounting nut. There it is, friends.

Okay, friends. Now it's going to be time to put it in our brand new front sway bar link. One thing I like to mention is it's always a great idea to do these as a pair. And if that's the case, now's the time to do it. So, let's go ahead and put this in starting with the bottom. Now, I'm going to use my 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning, and then we'll snug it up. If you were to try to torque this you'd want to torque it to 48 foot-pounds. It's going to be very difficult to torque because as you try to twist, it's going to want to lift up on the bar. If you try to put the bar inside here, obviously, you're not gonna be able to get to it. So, 48 foot-pounds, if you can do it. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Brought to you by 1Aauto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear shock on this 2007 Pontiac G6. Pretty much the same for any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as the Saturn Aura. We'll show you the right hand, or passenger side. The driver's side is the same procedure, and we always recommend you replace your shocks in pairs. The only thing you'll need, you will need a jack and jack stands. You will need 13, 19, and 21mm sockets, also as well as a ratchet, an extension, and probably a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage.

Take it, and depending on what wheels you have, this has wheel covers, so you unscrew the caps, and then the wheel cover comes off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle, and then remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire. Two 13mm nuts hold the shock at the top. We'll fast-forward here as we remove those two 13mm nuts. A 21mm bolt holds the shock at the bottom. We'll use a 21mm ratchet. We'll put a pipe on there for some extra leverage. It made it come off really easy. He probably can get it off easily enough with just the ratchet.

Our car is new enough that this shock is not worn out at all, so we're just going to reinstall the original one. We just wanted to show you this video, just so you know how to do it. The shocks we sell at 1A Auto are great replacements. You can see, you put the shock back in place, and then start those two nuts on the top. I will fast-forward, as we finish putting those nuts on. I then start the bolt at the bottom, and tighten it up. The bottom bolt, you want to tighten to probably about 45 to 50 foot-pounds, and the top bolts, you want to tighten up afterwards, between 20 and 25 foot-pounds. Keep the speed up here, as we put our wheel and tire back on, and just start the lug nuts on there by hand first, then tighten them preliminarily. With the car back down on the ground now, we'll tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds, using a star pattern.

Last but not least, put our wheel cover on there, and then put the caps on carefully, only using hand power to tighten those caps up.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all 5 of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel is off, we have a nice clear view of our front strut. With that said, anything that you're going to be removing bolts or nut-wise, you want to of course, spray it down with some penetrant.

First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Let's get the brake hose off of here. What we want to do here is just kind of move this brake line a little bit so we can give some slack between the stud and the strut, that way there we can lift this right up and out.

The next thing we need to do is loosen our 36-millimeter axle nut. The reason for that is because when this knuckle is going to want to pull away from the strut, we don't want to put a tug on any of our axle boots. A little bit of penetrant. The next thing you would want to do is either with a center punch, come right into that little dimple and just try to drive this axle into the bearing a little bit, just to give a little bit of slack, or of course, if you don't have a center punch, just put the nut so it matches up evenly, give it a couple loving bonks this way. That's nice and loose.

Next, we're going to remove our 18-millimeter nuts located right here and there. They hold the knuckle to the strut. Grab this bracket, carefully set it aside. These bolts right here are actually going to have to be forced out of the knuckle area. So what I always like to do is just take those nuts and I'm going to start them back on there, a few good threads, and you want to make sure that we're not going to damage the thread of the bolts. Give it a couple of loving bonks. Keep your ABS wire clear, do the same thing to the other one.

If you look at these bolts, you can see they're both the same, and if you look, you can also see that it's splined. That's the reason why it was stuck inside the knuckle.

Now we're going to carefully try to separate these two, but we want to make sure that this doesn't come down too far because once again, we don't want to put a tug on our axle boots, and we definitely don't want to put a tug on our brake line. If you want to have a bungee cord or something that's going to hold it at least away, but safely, that's up to you. There we are. I'm just going to set this right like that. Now we need to get under the hood. Now that we have the hood up, you have a clear view of the strut tower here. With that said, you don't want to touch this center nut. We're only going to remove these three, but when we remove all three, we want to leave one on there just a couple of threads for safety, and then we'll get under, we'll hold onto the strut and then we'll remove that nut.

If for some reason your strut didn't drop down when you removed all three of your nuts like that, it's because it's probably frozen along this area here into the strut tower. Use a little bit of penetrant and then carefully bonk right along here until it finally breaks free. Down like this, I'm just going to hold onto that strut, remove that last nut, and then I can remove it. There it is, friends. One thing that's always a great idea before you go ahead and try to put your new strut into the vehicle, is just line up the strut cap with the way the original was. So a match up from the bottom, make sure it's facing a straight line, and then just set these where they need to be. You can do that fairly easily by just holding the bottom and then turning the cap itself. Okay, friends, now it's going to be time to get our brand new front strut in here. As we do this, I like to mention that I always like to use a little bit of thread locker right on these studs. We'll call it your prerogative, but I recommend it. When we put this in, we want to make sure we line up the bolt holes with the studs coming out of our strut itself.

We'll start on all of our nuts, and then we'll snug them down and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Something that's important to make sure that I mention before we go ahead and put our knuckle up into the strut, is if you were to look along the backside of the knuckle, you might find that there's a lot of corrosion buildup. That's due to the fact that somebody made the knuckle out of aluminum and they put it in with the steel. When you have aluminum with steel, it just corrodes and that's what happens.

So feel along the back. If it feels as though it's raised, you need to make sure you take a chisel or whatever you might happen to have and clean that out. Now that I've got that knuckle cleaned up, let's go ahead and put this up so it's going to line up the bolt holes. Obviously, you want to clean up the threads on your mounting bolts. Something I always like to use is a little bit of red thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and start those through from the front to the back. Grab your two mounting nuts and of course, your bracket for the ABS wire, start it on there. We'll start these nuts, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.

Torque both these nuts to 89 foot-pounds. Let's get our brake hose back in there. It slides right into this little groove, and then of course we'll tighten it up. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. After you've bottomed out your axle nut, torque it to 159 foot-pounds. I like to put a bar straight across these studs like this, you want to be careful and make sure it's flat and not at an angle because you don't want to damage your threads on your studs.

We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now it's going to be time to make sure we go ahead and torque these down. Before we do that though, you need to make sure you have your wheel on the ground with the weight of the vehicle. Let's torque them to 18 foot-pounds.