Dodge Chrysler 6 Piece Fuel Injector Set TRQ FIA60329

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300 3.5 liter V6. We're going to show you how to remove and replace one or all of the injectors in your vehicles fuel rail. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this car, as well as, many other makes and models, and if you ever need parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Lift up the carpet in your vehicle's trunk. Here you'll find the battery and the rear fuse panel. This relay all the way at the end closest to the back of the vehicle, on the right it is our fuel pump relay. We'll remove that and go back up to the driver's seat of our vehicle. With the fuel pump relay disconnected we'll turn the key, run the vehicle until it dies, and then we'll shut it off and crank it a few more times, just to ensure that there's no more fuel getting through the injectors. Now that we know there's no fuel pressure left in the system we can safely work on it.

To remove your intake manifold we'll loosen the clamp at the throttle body with a flat blade screwdriver. You may want to disconnect this sensor. Looks like ours has been glued on because the clip is broken. You can also simply pop it out of the boot. Disconnect these two hoses from the back of the intake located just behind the throttle body. These just pop off by hand. There's one more at the back of the manifold.

Pull back in the red safety tab, push down and disconnect the sensor from the top of the intake, as well as the two electrical connectors at the front. Disconnect the connector from the throttle body. Again, we have one of those little red safety tabs we have to push down. Then we'll push down the tab and remove the connector.

We'll remove the two 10 millimeter nuts from the throttle body, the seven 10 millimeter bolts from the center of the intake manifold here, as well as the two 10 millimeter nuts over on the passenger side of the intake manifold. We'll do this using a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet where we can and a 10 millimeter wrench where it's a little too tight. Remove the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the throttle body bracket.

We're doing this with a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the bracket from the throttle body. There's a 15 millimeter bolt at the bottom of the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold, both front and rear. We'll loosen those up with a 15 millimeter wrench until we can slide them off of the studs. Once you've loosened the brackets go ahead and slide them off the studs. Now we'll lift up on the intake manifold, slide it forward to release it from the EGR tube at the back. Once you're off that tube, lift up being careful for that transmission dipstick and remove the manifold from the vehicle.

While the top of the intake manifold is exposed we're going to wad some paper towels in there, just to keep any dirt and debris from getting in there while we're working.

Remove the four 13 millimeter bolts. There are two on each side securing the fuel rail down onto the cylinder head. We'll do this using a 13 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension.

To remove one or more fuel injectors, all you have to do is carefully lift up and wiggle the fuel rail out of its holders. The O-rings on the injectors help hold them in there, so you will have to fight those a little bit. Slide up on the red safety tab on each injector you need to replace. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, we'll pop up the red safety tab on the injector. We'll have to do this for each one you want to change. Once that's popped up, push down on the tab. Once the connector is out, you want to carefully pry off this little steel clip here. Kind of pop that off. These do have a little bit of spring tension to them, so keep a hand on there so they don't go flying. Once that's out, just pop the injector out of the fuel rail and even though we have revealed the fuel system pressure, you can still expect this to leak a little bit. Remove the fuel injector from the rail and the vehicle.

Make sure you lubricate the edges of the O-rings with some fuel if you can. This stuffs not really dirty. Just go ahead and lubricate those O-rings to make sure they go in nice and smooth. Insert the injector back into its hole. Snap the top back in. You can spin that any way you need to in there. Reinstall the electrical connector. Snap the red safety back into place.

It's very important to make sure that you remember this clip. You can see that there's a flat edge there, that's where we're going to want the back portion of this clip to go. These ears face up and that little slot will ride on the metal on the edge of our rail there. All you do is line it up and it snaps right back into place. Now you know your injector's in there nice and tight.

Now, we're only replacing one injector and it's okay to replace just one if that's all you're having an issue with. However, if you’re replacing them because of a fuel system contaminate, getting in there and messing up the screens or making them sticky in some way, you may want to replace them all at once. The procedure will be the same for any other injector on the rail.

Reinstall the four 13 millimeter bolts into the fuel rail. We'll just start these by hand for now to make sure that everything is all lined up. Torque the bolts to 21 foot-pounds, again working your way from the middle out. The actual torque spec here is 250 inch-pounds which works out to 20.8 foot-pounds, so we're just going to go for 21.

Reinstall all of your fuel injector connectors. Don't forget to lock down the red safety tabs as well. Make sure they're all on there good. Remove the paper towels from the intake. Clean down this meeting surface with some solvent and paper towels or clean rag. Once again, I'm using a break cleaner here but there's a variety of solvents you can use to get all of that old debris and oil off.

Install your PCV breather tube on the back of the valve cover. You've got a nice little marking on it that says PCV with an arrow so you know which end goes where, and the other end should fall just about over here, where the back of the intake will be.

Remove the old gasket from your intake manifold using a small straight pick here, just to get in there and start popping it out. You should be able to remove the rest by hand. Start your new gasket. Line up. Press that in. Our old EGR seal is damaged so remove that. Install our new one. Make sure it sits all the way back past its edge.

Reinstall your intake manifold, being sure to set the opening for the automatic transmission dipstick into its proper place on the manifold. We'll also want to be careful for the bolts. We'll have to line up our EGR tube as well. Just be mindful of all of these things while we set it into place. Once the EGR tube is set and the intake is laid down onto the lower manifold, clip your automatic transmission dipstick back into place and start all of the 10 millimeter bolts by hand, just a couple of threads, to make sure they're all lined up before we tighten them down.

Tighten up the seven 10 millimeter bolts at the center of the intake. We're not going to tighten these down all the way yet. You just want them a little bit and then we'll have to torque them. Torque these bolts to nine foot-pounds. The manufacturer specification is 150 inch-pounds. However, it's a lot easier to do with this wrench and that number rounds up to about nine foot-pounds. We want to start these in the center and work our way out in a cross pattern.

Reconnect the map sensor. Push the safety into place. Reconnect the two intake tuner valve control. Reinstall the support brackets at the front and rear on the passenger side of the intake. We'll start those 10 millimeters on, just a couple of threads to keep it in place. Using a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet to tighten up those two bolts all the way at the bottom of those support brackets. Once the bottom of the support brackets are tighten down you can use the 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to finish tightening up the top two bolts.

Reconnect the PCV hose and this fitting closest to the EGR tube. We have a small hose here, and a large hose next to that. Reconnect the electrical connector onto the throttle body. Lock the safety tab back into place. You can now set the support bracket back over the throttle body bolts. Make sure it doesn't get caught up in any of the wiring down below. We'll spin our two 10 millimeter nuts on at the top by hand, just to keep that in place. Reinstall the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the bracket by hand. Tighten up the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the bracket with your socket and ratchet. Tighten up the two 10 millimeter nuts at the top.

Install the other end of the intake boot onto the throttle body. Tighten it up with your flat blade screwdriver. Reinstall the coolant tank line bracket on the side of the intake tube. Reinstall the map sensor into the intake tube. Earlier when we removed our intake, we wanted to wait until we had the intake tube reinstalled to make sure this all lined up properly. Now that we've got it where it needs to be we'll go ahead and tighten that down.

Once your fuel system is put back together and you're ready to run the vehicle, reinstall your fuel pump relay. Now we'll turn the key to the on position until we can hear the fuel pump shut off. Turn the key off and repeat that process three times before starting our vehicle. Now our vehicle is good to go. Once you've reinstalled the relay, put the back of the cover back on first, snap the front in, set your trunk carpet down.

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