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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a water pump on this 2006 Jeep Liberty with the 3.7-liter V6 engine. The items you'll need include a new water pump from 1AAuto.com, a 13mm and 15mm socket and ratchet, a 16mm wrench, a drip pan, emery cloth or steel wool, a funnel with a screen, an 8mm Allen bit, and a torque wrench.
Your belt is located right at the front of the engine and the tensioner is right here. You want to put a 15mm socket and ratchet on that tensioner and pull back on it. That will loosen up the slack on the belt and allow you to pull the belt off of each of those pulleys. On your tensioner, you want to remove this 13mm bolt right here, and you can see Don uses a piece of pipe for some added leverage here to help break it free. We'll fast-forward as he removes that bolt. Once the bolt comes out, the tensioner will pull right off.
Remove the cap to your coolant reservoir. Your drain plug is located right here under the bumper. Using a 16mm wrench, loosen that up and make sure you have a drip pan underneath to collect the coolant. Lining the water pump, there are eight 13mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don removes these. You want to make sure your drip pan is underneath the water pump. Then pull the water pump out.
Now, using an emery cloth or steel wool, clean up the surface of the block where the auto pump mounts. After you do this, use a Shop Vac and make sure you vacuum out this area really well. Get any contaminants out of there. Take your new water pump and put the gasket into place. Now lower the water pump down into place and replace those eight 13mm bolts. Again, we'll fast-forward as Don does this. Then you want to torque each of those bolts to 40 foot-pounds.
You want to line up this indent with this bolt right here. Then once you have the tensioner in place, replace that 13mm bolt. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens that up. Now, when you go to put your belt back on, you're going to need this belt routing diagram that shows you exactly how the belt should look. You want to follow this and make sure that your belt once you get it back on all the pulleys looks just like this, so just use this as a reference. It's hard to show it, but you can see Don is going to feed the belt down into place and put it onto each of those pulleys.
Once you only have one pulley left to put the belt onto, get your ratchet and put that 15mm socket and ratchet on the tensioner, pull it back, and put the belt down on the last pulley. Then use the tensioner still to make sure that your belt is on each of the pulleys all the way, and that there's no chance of them slipping off and that everything's in place. Once you know everything's in place, carefully remove the socket and ratchet. Use your 16mm wrench to tighten up the coolant drain plug.
Refill your coolant reservoir with the appropriate fresh coolant. This should take a little bit of time as the coolant will run down into the engine as well. Replace your cap. Now you want to run your engine so the coolant goes down through the engine. Then, using your 8mm Allen bit, you want to loosen up this feeder valve.
Now your coolant's most likely been sucked down into the engine. You can fill up your reservoir bottle again and replace the cap. It's a matter of loosening that feeder making sure that your reservoir is full. You'll see water might be coming out, you'll see air bubbles there. That's what we're looking for to get all those air bubbles out, keep pulling this just to make sure it's at the right level and bleed it until all the air is out.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Tools used
Okay, friends, real quick, before we get started on this job, hands and eyes. We're gonna be dealing with chemicals. With that said, we wanna make sure we drain the coolant, and then we're gonna flush the system to make sure we can start off with brand new coolant by the time we're done. Let's go ahead and remove our radiator cap. Set that aside. Noticing that you have a plastic radiator and a plastic petcock, you might also find that the petcock just doesn't want to come out of there. If that's the case, obviously, you don't wanna continue because you could damage the radiator. So we're gonna move right along over here, which is the lower hose to the thermostat housing. Remove the clamp, just be prepared because coolant will come down. I like to put a nice funnel or a box carved out like this so it'll direct it into a nice bucket. At this point, we're gonna slowly take this off of here and try to direct this into our recycling receptacle.
The next thing we're gonna need is a tool that looks like this. You're gonna put it on an air chisel and it's got a nice 36-millimeter head here. We're gonna put it over the fan clutch area. I like to do this while the belt's still on so it holds the pulley from spinning on me. There it is. If you're trying to remove this and you notice your pulley is spinning, just take a bolt, put it through the hole in the pulley, and put it up against the water pump. At that point, you should be able to spin this to break it free. Okay, it's getting close. Just make sure when it comes off, it doesn't fall down and hit the radiator. Set that aside. Now it's gonna be time to get the belt off of here. Just take a quick peek or even draw a diagram of the routing for the belt before. After you've done that, go ahead and put your serpentine belt tool onto your actual tensioner pulley area. We're gonna turn this clockwise. That's gonna relieve tension. Now we can get the belt right off and out of the way. Now that the belt's out of the way, let's go ahead and remove our idler pulley here.
Put the water pump right up here and that way there, as we remove the bolts, we can put them into the corresponding holes because some are actually gonna be different lengths. There's gonna be eight of them. So if you look down at your engine, you're gonna be able to see the mounting bolts going around this. We're gonna remove all of those and then we'll remove the water pump. Big difference. Almost there. Let's go ahead and get this last bolt out of here and break this free. Let's get this out of here. There it is, friends. Now we're gonna take a nice scraper or even a razor blade like this and carefully clean along the areas where the seal's gonna ride for our new water pump. Now that we have this area cleaned down so that all the rough edges or raised edges are off of the mating surface, let's continue on by looking at the bolts for our water pump.
On all the longer bolts, you're probably gonna see that it has a little bit of adhesive on there. That's actually a thread sealer and you need to make sure you clean it off with a wire wheel or whatever you've got, and then reapply some. It either comes in a gel or, of course, you can just go ahead and get yourself some of this thread tape. All right, so now we have our bolts nice and cleaned and, of course, I have that thread sealer on there, I'm just gonna go ahead and put in the bolts into the old water pump now so I can remember where they go. I'm gonna switch these right over, grab onto our new water pump. Let's get ready for our install. Let's go ahead and put our new gasket onto our new water pump. Just line it up with the way that it needs to go. Now it's gonna be time to get our new water pump back into the vehicle. I'm just gonna turn out like this. See if I can squeeze it down and through here. Just like that. There we are.
Let's line it up in the direction that it needs to go. When you're looking at the water pump, I'm gonna turn it a little bit, you want this little weep hole right behind the pulley there to be facing in the upward position. That should pretty much line it up where you want it. And then, of course, we'll grab our bolts and we'll start putting them in. Start that top bolt in. All right. Now we're gonna start in all the rest of our bolts in corresponding order. And then we'll go ahead and snug them up. Once they're all snugged, let's go ahead and torque them to 43 foot-pounds. Go ahead and get our idler pulley back on here onto its spot. I'm gonna start this in and then we'll snug it up. Snug it up with a ratchet. There we go. It's bottomed out. Tiny bit more, awesome. Time to spray down the area with some parts cleaner.
Now it's gonna be time to install our serpentine belt. Let's go around the crank on the bottom there, put it up and over the top of the idler pulley, down and under the tensioner, up over the AC, just like this. Now at this point, we're gonna take the other end. We're gonna go around that power steering pump pulley, and we're gonna hold this nice and taut. Come up and over the alternator and then bring this down and it should be ready to go over that water pump. Use your serpentine belt tool to relieve tension. Put the belt down and around your water pump pulley. It's a nice smooth pulley, should go over fairly easily. There we are.
Now, just check all your pulleys, make sure it's sitting especially on the ones with the grooves you want it sitting in where it's supposed to. This looks good. Let's get this out of the way. Let's start the fan back onto the water pump here. We're just gonna bottom this out and then we'll just snug it up real quick. Get our tool back on here, and we're just gonna snug this. That's it right there. So now we're gonna the hose onto the thermostat housing here until it's completely bottomed out against the housing. Once we get the clamp on there, we want to make sure it's approximately an eighth of an inch away from the end of the hose. And, of course, we'll snug it up. It's gonna be time to fill the cooling system. You want a nice funnel like this, and you want to make sure you use the proper coolant. You want to use coolant that's either orange or, of course, the universal coolant, but definitely not green. I'll go with universal here and fill it right up.
Now after you've run your vehicle for a while and you burped out all the air in it, you wanna make sure you go ahead and put your radiator cap back on here, push this right down, turn it so it's nice and tight. And now we're gonna fill the overflow. Okay, close the hood. Take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
