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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
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New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Going to take our 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar, and while the vehicle is on the ground, we'll loosen our lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loose, I can just take the socket and finish taking them off. Lug nuts loose, we'll take the wheel off and tire and put it aside.
Before you remove the caliper, you need to unbolt the rubber brake line from this bracket here so they have more space to move the caliper. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the backside of it and a little bit here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt—we use a socket and ratchet to remove it. Pull the bolt out, let the hose out of the bracket. Before you remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts, make sure the e-brake is released because the parking brake or e-brake on this car works through the caliper. So if it's tight and pulled you're not going to be able to remove this caliper because it's going to be gripping the brake pads, the rotor, so just make sure that's released first. These are 12 millimeter bolts.
You may also need to counterhold the slide pins. These are 17 millimeter. I'm using a 12 millimeter box wrench to release these. That one I didn't need to counter hold the slide pin, it didn't turn. I'm going to leave that in there and then work on the top one. Remove the bolts. And I have a bungee cord ready. I'm going to hang this caliper up on the spring. May need a large flat bladed screwdriver or a small pry bar and just pump this caliper up and off. Take a bungee cord and hold that off to the side. Pop our old brake pads out of here with the pry bar and remove the lower and upper caliper bracket bolts. These are 14 millimeter—use a 14 millimeter box wrench. They can be on there pretty hard. I'm going to use a dead blow mallet to tap on the wrench to break it free. Work on the top one same way. Those loosen. I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench to make this a little quicker. The top bolt removed. Pull the caliper bracket off and put that aside.
Need to remove the retaining screws that are holding the brake rotor on. Spray a little rust penetrant in here. You need a big Phillips head screwdriver. The problem is when you go to turn it, it's going to want to turn the whole rotor. I'm going to throw a couple lug nuts on here. Take a pry bar and counterhold it and turn. I'm going to have someone help me and hold these with a long breaker bar and then, if you've got a decent screwdriver, you can actually put a wrench on here sometimes to give you a little extra leverage. Set up and try to turn this off. Push in and turn just like that. Let's try this one. If you wreck these taking them out I wouldn't worry about putting them back in.
All they do is hold the rotor against the hub when you've got the wheel off the car or whatever, it just keeps it from being loose, but you could use lug nuts to hold it in place while you reinstall the brake parts. I wouldn't worry about it. I'm going to take off these lug nuts I was using. The rotor is now loose. Careful not to drop it.
Here's the original brake pads from our vehicle and our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. It has the same solid style brake rotor and same style pads. This would be the opposite side, but matching pads with the little pins that go into the piston and the wear indicators. Already come with shims installed. Same amount of lug holes and same holes for the mounting screws. These should fit on there and work great for us. Going to grab our caliper, unhook it from the bungee cord, just kind of move it over here. It’s still attached to the parking brake cable and the brake hose.
This piston can't be pushed in, it needs to be turned in. I'm going to use these needle nose pliers, there are tools for this but I'm going to use these pliers instead, and basically just turn it clockwise because when you pull the parking break it pushes the piston out, and part of that mechanism to retract this piston for our new brake pads, it needs to be turned in, so we're going to turn it clockwise. You don't want this boot to get twisted up that's around the cylinder in the brake caliper, so I'm just going to spray a little bit of rust penetrant. I'm going to take a bit and I'm very carefully just cleaning some of the rust from the edge, and hopefully what happens now is I can turn this piston clockwise and it won't twist the boot. Just using the pick to free it up and the oil to help it slide. I keep turning it. There we go, that's better. Alright.
So, once you get it turned down, just make sure that this is basically vertical. Maybe turn it just a little bit, because the inner pad has a pin on it that's going to sit in this slot. So, that looks pretty good like that. We're going to reuse our caliper bracket hardware. We need to clean it. These are just stainless steel. We’re just going to clean the dirt off. Spray some brake parts cleaner and use a wire brush. Repeat that for both sides. Now is a good time, while you have the caliper bracket off, to check that your slide pins are moving freely. That one feels good. That one also feels good.
If the clip pops off, don't worry about it, just get it cleaned up and clip it back into place. Take our new rotor. I'm going to put it on backwards first, take some break parts cleaner, clean off the oil that they come shipped in, wipe off any excess. I'll grab them by the edge, flip them over. I'm going to line up the counter sunk holes with those threaded holes there. I'm going to find them and line them up. If you've got these screws you can install them, if not, you can leave them off. You can just put a lug nut on here to hold it tight until you get the whole brake assembly back on. We'll put them back in. Just snug them down, they don't have to be super tight. All they do is keep the rotor from moving around when you're installing all the brake parts and taking the wheel and tire on and off.
Now we'll take brake parts cleaner and clean down the face of the rotor. Let's reinstall the bracket. Place it over the rotor, capture top bolts, might have to move the bracket around to get it to line up. That's threaded in. Capture the bottom one. I'm just going to switch to a ratcheting wrench so I can finish installing them and then I'll torque them afterwards. I'm going to torque the caliper bracket bolts to 54 foot-pounds. I'm just going to make sure the brake pad surface is clean. Just hit it with some brake parts cleaner. You don't want to have any grease or dirt on there. Take a little bit of break caliper grease, put it on the ears, and don’t have to go crazy with this stuff. This is going to be the inside pad, it has the wear indicator on it. It's going to sit in here just like this. Repeat that for the outer pad.
Take our bungee cord off, don't forget to take it out of here. Place the brake caliper back onto the bracket. You'll know pretty instantly if you didn't retract the piston far enough because the caliper won't want to go on. So that slid right on. I'm going to reinstall the bolts. Tighten this one up. Might get to a point where you're trying to tighten these caliper slide bolts, then they'll start to spin in the slides. The slides are 17 millimeter. You can use that to counter hold it. I'm just using a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet and I'm just going to tighten this up. The torque on these is 17 foot pounds—it's pretty light.
I'm just going to do it by hand. Just repeat that for the top one. This bleeder screw makes it a little tricky to get a box wrench in here but the socket and ratchet works perfectly. Don't forget, after you're done putting the brakes back together, put the bolt back in holding your rubber brake hose. Tighten that down. Alright. Put the wheel back on the car. You want the lugs caught, get them caught by hand first, we'll torque them with the vehicle weight on it when it's on the ground. Really just need to bring them down until they're seeded. The vehicle on the ground. The lug nut torque is 79.6 foot pounds, so we're going to do it 80. Do this in a cross pattern.
And the final step to push the caliper pistons back out to meet the pads. We're going to gently press in the brake and pump up the pedal pressure, and you'll feel it start to get harder.
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Tools used
Tools used
One of the first things we need to do is get the wheel off of here. We're going to remove all five of these 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. The next thing we're going to do is spray down this area. This white area around here is corrosion. We also want you to make sure you spray around this screw right here because we need to remove that to get the rotor off. Now, if you look along the front side of the knuckle area, you're gonna see your emergency brake cable and a mounting bolt, remove that 12-millimeter bolt. The next thing we're going to do is move along to these 12-millimeter headed bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket. Remove them both.
Once those are off, you can wiggle this around. You might need a pry bar to get it off. Well, this is off. Take a peek at your caliper boot right here, make sure you don't see any fluid leaking out. If you do, you need yourself a caliper. The next thing we want to do is carefully take a pic, just go right along the piston and the boot, and just try to make sure you can go right around, and it's not going to bind up because what we're going to have to do after that is push this back. And to push it back, you need to actually rotate it clockwise as you push in. Nice. I like to use a tool that looks like this. It's a multitool, has all different sizes. That's the notches that I'm going to use. I need to go right in the middle of the X here, and I need to press it up against these arms back here and twist at the same time. This part is going to be fairly hard. Make sure you get this in as far as you can. And then also, make sure that if you were to look at this hole and the bottom, this line is as straight as possible with that, and this line would, of course, go from ear to ear. That looks good. The next thing we're gonna do is get this out of here. You want to make sure that you remember that it goes on the bottom side here. Let's try to get the pads out. If your pads are frozen in like this, you know, you had a braking issue. If your pads can't move in and out, more than likely you're going to be using more of your front brakes to stop the vehicle, and you're probably going to have overheat conditions in the rear. Let's get this out of here.
That was really in there. Something to pay attention to is the inward pad has this brake wear indicator. You want to make sure that that's in the same position as when you removed it. So, this inner pad has it facing. The next thing we want to do is remove the caliper bracket two knuckle bolts, which is this right here and right there using a 17-millimeter. What you might notice with this one is it might be hard to get a socket on there because of the upper ball joint. If that's the case, just use a wrench, put it on there, and give it a light bonk with a rubber mallet. Let's set the bracket aside. The next thing we need to do is remove this Phillips head screw. To get this out using a regular screwdriver just isn't going to work. You need something that looks a little bit more like this, which is an impact driver with, of course, the Phillips head screwdriver bit on there. Put it on, give it a twist to the left, and them give it a couple bonks. It should want to break free. Next, use one of your lug nuts, start it on one of your lugs, and then we're going to bonk right here with our hammer. If, of course, you're disposing off the rotor and you know you're all done with it you can hit out here. That way there, you don't have to necessarily worry about these. It looks pretty great. There it is.
The next thing we need to do is clean up this hub area, which is the mating surface where the rotor's going to ride. It needs to be smooth as possible. Let's clean this down. We've got our collection receptacle. Nice and clean. The next thing we're gonna do is clean the rotor braking surfaces. Make sure you get that backside as well. Beautiful. Next thing we're going to do is we're going to put on some copper never-seize around this area right here of the hub. The next thing we're gonna do is get the rotor on here. We want to pay attention to these little inverted holes right here. Those need to line up with the screw holes that are on the hub itself. So, pick one that you want it to line up with. Now, if I was to look, I can see that I have this hole and then the small inverted hole. For this right here, it's obviously backwards. So, I would have to turn it to try to line that up. That looks good. I can see a hole through there, hole through there. Pick when you want. I like to go with the one that already had the screw in it because odds are it's less rusted. Grab my tool. Now, when you put this in, you don't need to bonk it a whole bunch of times, just a couple. Give it a twist to the right, and that's it. That locks it in, and next time you can remove it fairly easily. So, we made our way over to the bench so we can finish working on this caliper bracket. What we need to do now is strip it down. What I mean by that is go ahead and take a pocket screwdriver and get rid of these tins.
Okay. Those come off fairly easily. Now, you have your caliper sliders and you have the boot that attaches to them. You just need to go around that edge with your screwdriver and break it free. Once it's broken free, you can pull out that slider easy-peasy. I'm going to set this on the side that I got it from so I can remember because it has this little rubber bushing. That's very important that you don't mix it up. At this point, if you wanted to, you can continue by taking out the boots. Just give it a little squeeze. Should roll right out of there. Same thing with this one. The next thing we're gonna do is clean up these slider pins and take a good hard look at them. You want to make sure up along this area right here is as clean as possible. If you have any buildup or rust or rot, you need to make sure it's clean because you have to have a nice seat for where that boot's gonna ride on. If you don't, water will get in. Make sure that this boot isn't swollen and it's not torn. It looks good. Do the same to both. The next thing we're going to do is clean out these boots right here. First, of course, you'd take it, give it a little squeeze, roll it around. Make sure it's not torn or broken in any way. That looks great. I'm just gonna take this rag, twist it, put it right through, just like that. Now, I'm gonna open up that slider boot and just roll it around on the rag. That gets out all the crud and it looks pretty darn good afterward. Do the same to both. The next thing we're gonna do is clean out these ports for the sliders. You want your collection bucket. We're going to be using a chemical here. So, you have to have eye protection and hand protection. Put some of that part cleaner in there, get a little bore brush. Dump it out. It looks like mud. And do it again. That looks nice in there. Do the same to the other side.
Now that both of those look great. Let's move along to cleaning up this area, which is where the tins are gonna ride. If this isn't cleaned up well enough, the tins are gonna sit too high and the pads are going to be frozen in the bracket. You could try to scrape it with a screwdriver. You can see all large chunks coming off. You could try with one of these little brushes, get off as much as possible that way. Or, of course, you can use something that looks a little bit more like this, a little sanding disc on there, and then just try to...That looks pretty great. I'm just going to feel for any raised edges. No, that feels really good. The only thing with using the sanding discs is you don't want to go in too deep, and, you know, if you take away too much of the metal, you don't want to take away any metal. You just want to get the rust. You could cause issues with the brake pads. That looks good. Let's do the same to all four corners. So, the next thing we need to do is apply a coating of Moly Grease right along these areas here that we just cleaned up. That way there, we can get these tins on here. Your kit came with a little thing of grease. It's great to use that. Make sure you save a little bit because you're going to need to use it on your slider pins as well. I'll set that aside. I've got a nice big jar with a nice brush. I like my brush, just a little bit. The reason for adding this in here is gonna help with vibration dampening, noise reduction, and, of course, keeping moisture away from those freshly sanded areas to help avoid it from rotting and building up underneath the tins.
Grab your tin and slide the ears right in there like that. At this point, don't think that you're done yet because you actually have to push down on this centerpiece as well. Right here, push that down right up against the caliper bracket. If you can't get your fingers in there, use a screwdriver or whatever you have to do. If you leave this up, the tin could come off and it could hit up against the rotor as it comes around.
That looks great. The next thing we're gonna do is get the boots on here. So, to do that, I'm going to continue on with a little bit of my grease. I'm gonna go right inside this hole, just like that. That's gonna prime that hole. Do the same to the other side, of course. All right. Take your boot. You've got the one with a little lip on it, and then the other side, use the lip and then put it inside here. You should be able to just kind of squeeze it in with your fingers. Give it a twist. If it pops back out, it wasn't seated properly. So, the twist is kind of important. I'm twisting it, it's not popping out. That looks good. Same to this side. Now, we're going to lube up those slider pins. Do the shaft area that goes in and out of the caliper bracket itself. And then you need to make sure you work your way all the way up to this edge that's very close to where my fingers are at least in one area. Get a nice little glob of grease up on there. That's super important because when we put this in that grease is going to go up along the lip of the boot where it connects to the slider, and then I'm going to twist it like this, and I'm going to work that grease around that whole lip. That's going to keep the moisture out 100%. This looks great, do the same to the other side. Make sure you clean up all that excess grease that might be hanging around. So, now, it's time to get the bracket back on the vehicle. Make sure that you have your caliper mounting bolts. And if you want to use some thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and put both bolts in before you start...
Go ahead and get both bolts in and start them before you tighten either of them up. I'll just bottom these out real quick. Go ahead and torque these bolts to 76 foot-pounds. Torqued. So, we matched over our pads with the ones that we took out. We know that we had the wear indicator on the same side and that was facing down on the inward pad. Go ahead and put those into the bracket. That looks great. Now, we're going to take this little piece right here. It's got two little years. They're going to go into the holes in the bottom of the pad. This goes on the bottom side. That looks good. Next, we're going to take the caliper and we're going to add a little bit of that same Moly Grease lubricant on the piston itself, and then on the backside of these two ears as well. Once again, this is going to help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Carefully slide it up and over these pads and then pushing your sliders as needed so you can get the caliper over them. This is looking great. Next, we're going to take our caliper to bracket bolts, tiny bit of thread locker, your prerogative. Bottom both of these out. Bottom them out. Torque these to 24 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this bracket for the e-brake cable back on here. It's got a little ear, should fall into the hole. Grab your bolt, go ahead and bottom that out, snug it up. Tight. At this point, we're going to get the wheel on here. We're going to put all these lug nuts on and bottom them out and then we'll put the wheels onto the ground and torque them to manufacturer specification. The next thing we're gonna do is torque these five lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Once your wheels are torqued, you're gonna get inside of your vehicle and slowly pump up your brake pedal till it's firm. The next thing you want to do is under the hood. You're gonna come over to your master cylinder. You can open it up and take a peek inside. Once you can see where the level is, take a look from the side and you'll see a maximum line. You want it to be just about right there. Once you're sure that it's full, make sure that you close it back up there. There it is. Close the hood and take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
