How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 2006-12 Honda Civic
Created on: 2017-12-21
How to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning rear wheel bearing hub on 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12 Honda Civic.
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step 1 :Removing the Wheel
- Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands
- Remove the lug nuts
- Pull off the wheel
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step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads and Brake Rotor
- Remove the 12mm bolt from the brake line
- Remove the 12mm bolts from the brake caliper
- Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
- Pull the caliper aside
- Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
- Remove the brake pad slides
- Clean the slides with a wire brush
- Apply anti-seize fluid or white grease to the slides
- Push the slides on with a flat blade screwdriver
- If only changing the pads, continue to Step 6 and install the new pads
- Remove 14mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
- Pull off the brake caliper bracket
- Slide the wheel speed sensor wire out of the bracket
- Remove the 10mm bolt from the wheel speed sensor
- Remove the wheel speed sensor
- Thread a lug nut onto the rotor
- Hold the rotor with a pry bar
- Remove the Phillips screws from the rotor
- Pull the rotor off
- If the rotor will not come off, thread the lug nuts and strike the hub area of the rotor with a rubber mallet
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step 3 :Removing the Wheel Hub
- Remove the 14mm bolts from behind the hub
- Remove the hub
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step 4 :Installing the Wheel Hub
- Insert the hub into place
- Tighten the 14mm bolts to the wheel hub
- Torque the bolts to 47 foot-pounds
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step 5 :Installing the New Brake Pads and New Brake Rotor
- Clip the speed sensor into the bracket
- Install the speed sensor into the hub
- Tighten the 12mm bolt to the sensor
- Clean the rotor with brake parts cleaner or mineral spirits
- Slide the rotor on
- Tighten the Phillips screws to the rotor
- Put the caliper bracket onto the rotor
- Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to 54 foot-pounds of torque
- Start the bolts by hand
- Put an old pad in the caliper
- Use a large C-clamp and the old pad to push the pistons back
- Place anti-seize grease onto the brake pad tabs
- Coat the brake pad material with brake parts cleaner
- Install the new brake pads into the bracket
- Put the caliper on
- Thread 17mm bolts by hand
- Tighten bolts to 17 foot-pounds
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step 6 :Reattaching the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the lug nuts to 79.6 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Tools needed
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12mm Socket
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Brake Parts Cleaner
Rubber Mallet
Dead Blow Hammer
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Paper Towels
Bungee Cord
Anti-Seize Grease
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
12mm Wrench
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
We're going to take our 19mm socket breaker bar, and while the vehicle's on the ground, we'll loosen our lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loose, I'll just take the socket and finish taking them off. With the lug nuts loose, take the wheel off and tire, and put it aside.
Before you remove the caliper, you need to unbolt the rubber brake line from this bracket here so we have more space to move the caliper. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the back side of it, a little bit here. This is a 12mm bolt. I'll use a socket and ratchet to remove it. Bolt out, pull the hose out of the bracket. Before you remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts, make sure the E-brake is released, because the parking brake or E-brake on this car works through the caliper. So if it's tight and pulled, you're not going to be able to remove this caliper, because it's going to be gripping the brake pads, the rotor. Just make sure that's released first.
These are 12mm bolts, and they also need to counterhold the slide pins. These are 17mm. You need a 12mm box wrench to release these. That one, I didn't need to counterhold the slide pin. It didn't turn. I'm going to leave that in there and work on the top one. Remove the bolts. I have a bungee cord ready. We're going to hang this caliper up on the spring. We need a large flat-bladed screwdriver or a small pry bar. You just pop this caliper up and off. Bungee cord, hold that off to the side. Pop our old brake pads out of here with the pry bar.
Then remove the lower and upper caliper bracket bolts. These are 14mm. Use a 14mm box wrench. They can be on there pretty hard. I'm going to use a dead blow mallet to tap on the wrench, break it free. Work on the top one the same way. With those loosened, I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench, make this a little quicker. Top bolt removed, pull caliper bracket off, and set that aside. Push in on these plastic tabs behind this.
This is a wheel speed sensor. It's clipped to this bracket. Push in on the locks, the plastic tabs, and slide that out. So I basically just squeezed those down. I'm going to remove the 10mm bolt, pull the speed sensor out of the rear knuckle. 10mm socket and ratchet, thread that right out. Work the speed sensor out of here and kind of wiggle it back and forth. Try not to pull on the wires. Just work it back and forth, pull it out. Feel the rubber seal, and just place this aside. You need to remove the retaining screws that are holding the brake rotor on.
Spray a little rust penetrant in here. You need a big Phillips head screwdriver. The problem is when you go to turn it, it's going to want to turn the whole rotor. I'll throw a couple lug nuts on here, take a pry bar, counter-hold it, turn. I'm going to have someone help me and hold these with a long breaker bar, and then if you've got a decent screwdriver, you can actually put a wrench on here sometimes for a little extra leverage. Set up, I'll try to turn this off. Push in and turn just like that. Let's try this one. If you wreck these taking them out, don't worry about putting them back in. All they do is hold the rotor against the hub when you've got the wheel off the car or whatever. It just keeps it from being loose, but you can use lug nuts to hold it in place while you reinstall the brake parts. I wouldn't worry about it.
I'm going to take off these lug nuts I was using. The rotor's now loose, careful not to drop it. The hub assembly is bolted through the knuckle from the back, so you can see the ends of the bolts here. So since I can see them, I'm going to spray them with some rust penetrant. 14mm head on these four bolts that are holding in the hub, here, and the other two are down at the bottom. I'm going to use a 14mm socket and a breaker bar, start removing these. I've broken them loose, I'm just going to switch to a ratcheting wrench to make it a little quicker. Hub is actually already loose from the knuckle, which is good. It hasn't seized in here. So I'm going to finish removing all the bolts.
If this head seized in here, my plan was I've got these bolts backed out a bit with some space. I was going to actually get a punch and a hammer, and tap on these bolts and help push the knuckle out of here. But since it came free, I didn't have to do that. The hub and bearing is loose, so I'm holding it so it doesn't fall. Pull it right out. There's a rubber O-ring on here, just make sure that O-ring came out with this, because that needs to be replaced when you replace the hub and bearing.
Here's our original hub and bearing from our vehicle. Here's our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. You can see they're identical in design. They're five lug. Flip this over, this is brand new, comes with a new O-ring. It has the magnet pick-up for the ABS sensor. Same threaded holes for the rotor, same four mounting bolts. This should fit in great and work great for us.
I'm going to take a rag and just make sure there's no dirt in here. I don't want to tear up the O-ring seal. Then when you install it, two of these holes are a little offset from the other holes, and that should match on the hub. So you'll see it goes in this way. Put it in place, should be pretty clear if the holes don't line up. They do. I'm just going to capture this bolt, now I'll capture the other three bolts.
Now I'm going to take a socket ratchet, and just snug these down before I torque them. Torque these 47 foot-pounds. In here at the hub, we'll install it into the hub. I'll just reinstall the bolt. Very little torque on these, about seven foot-pounds, so really just hand-tight just like that. I'm going to line up the counter-sunk holes with those threaded holes there. Find them and tighten them up.
If you've got these screws, you can install them. If not, you can leave them off. You can just put a lug nut on here to hold it tight until you get the whole brake assembly back on. But we'll put them back in. Just snug them down, they don't have to be super tight. All they do is keep the rotor from moving around when you're installing all the brake parts, and taking the wheel and tire on and off.
Reinstall the bracket, place it over the rotor. Capture the top bolts. You might have to move the bracket around to get it to line up. Thread it in, capture the bottom one. I'm just going to switch to a ratcheting wrench so I can finish installing them, and then I'll torque them afterwards. I'm going to torque the caliper bracket bolts to 54 foot-pounds. I'm just going to make sure that the brake pad surface is clean—just hit it with some brake parts cleaner. You don't want to have any grease or dirt on there.
Take a little bit of brake caliper grease and put it on the ears. Don't have to go crazy with this stuff. This is going to be the inside pad. It has the wear indicator on it. It's going to sit in here just like this. Repeat that for the outer pad. Take our bungee cord off and don't forget to take it out of here. Place the brake caliper back onto the bracket.
Reinstall the bolts. Tighten this one up. You're going to get to a point where you're trying to tighten these caliper slide bolts, then they'll start to spin on the slides. The slides are 17mm. Use that to counterhold it. I'm just using a 12mm socket and ratchet, and I'm just going to tighten this up. The torque on these is 17 foot-pounds, pretty light. I'm just going to do it by hand. Just repeat that for the top one. This bleeder screw makes it a little tricky to get a box wrench in here, but the socket and ratchet work perfectly. Don't forget, after you're done putting the brakes back together, put the bolt back in holding your rubber brake hose and tighten it down.
Put the wheel back on the car. You want the lugs caught. Get them caught by hand first. We'll torque them with the vehicle weight on it when it's on the ground. Really just need to bring them down until they're seated. With the vehicle on the ground, the lug nut torque is 79.6 foot-pounds. So we're going to do it to 80, do this in a cross pattern.
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