2012 Honda CR-Z 4 Piece G-Power Spark Plug Set NGK NGETK00060

Okay friends, one of the first things we need to do is get under the hood. Once you're under the hood, just make sure it's not super hot because we don't want to deal with a hot engine. Go ahead and remove this cover right here by removing your 2 10-millimeter headed nuts. Okay, there should be one right here, ours is missing. Go ahead and carefully lift that up and set it aside.

Awesome. Now that the cover is off we have a clear view of our ignition coil harness right here. We need to go ahead and squeeze on this tab right here and try to draw it off. If you can't squeeze hard enough, go ahead and use a pocket screwdriver, come right underneath this ear, carefully lift it, and then draw this away. Every time I remove an electrical connector, I always look to see if there's any funny colors, if there is it's probably corrosion and that's going to cause restriction. This looks good. Let's set it aside.

The next thing we're gonna do is remove our 10-millimeter head bolt right here. Set that aside as well. Go ahead and grab onto the coil, twist, and lift. Underneath where that coil was is where you gonna find your spark plug. You gonna need a 5/8 socket that looks like this and you want to make sure that it's a spark plug socket, the spark plug socket's going to have a little rubber gasket in there and it's gonna hold the spark plug. Go ahead and put it right down in there, turn it counterclockwise and remove the spark plug. There it is, friends.

Now that we have the spark plug out, I always like to take a peek right along the electrode area just to make sure there isn't any buildup. If there's buildup that could indicate that there's an issue going on inside the engine. This one actually looks pretty good. Now it's gonna be time to install our brand new spark plug. Go ahead and put it into your spark plug socket. Make sure it doesn't fall out. The last thing you want is for it to fall out and potentially damage the electrode area. Go ahead and carefully put it down in here. And you always want to start this in by hand. Go ahead and screw it all the way until the bottoms out. Now we gonna go ahead and make sure we torque this down. Has a crush gasket on it and you want to torque this to exactly 13-foot-pounds. To install the coil, I always like to put a little bit of dielectric grease right down inside this area here. It's going to keep the moisture away and of course along this area right there, also to keep the moisture away. Right in there. Along here. You don't need very much. Go ahead and set that down on there and press it down onto the spark plug. Let's put our bolt in there. I always want to start these in by hand of course. Now snug it up. Just bottom it out. Give it a teeny bit more. That's good. If you want to use a little bit of dielectric grease inside of your connector, we'll call it your prerogative. Aside from that, go ahead and press it on, listen for a click. Give it a nice tug, make sure it's secure. We would just do the same down the line. Now when you get down to this portion of this, you're probably gonna see that these black pieces in the way. There's a 10-millimeter bolt here and a 10-millimeter headed nut right there. We're gonna remove the pair of those and then you can lift this up and out of the way.

All right, now that we have everything nice and securely connected, we have this back on there as it should be, let's go ahead and put this cover back on. Line up the holes with the studs coming off your engine. Put on your nut, and then of course snug it up. Do the same to the other one if you have one. Okay, friends, the next thing that we need to do is carefully start up the vehicle. We're gonna come right back out here and we're gonna watch the engine. Make sure it's not shaking around. If it's shaking around, you have a misfire, there's a possibility that maybe you didn't plug something in. Aside from that, shut the hood, hop back in the vehicle, make sure there's no check engine light, and take it for a road test.

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace your worn out spark plugs in this 1998 Toyota Camry 4-cylinder. These spark plugs are going to fit a lot of different vehicles, and this procedure is going to be pretty much the same for any engine.

You'll need a new set of spark plugs from 1AAuto.com, a 5/8 spark plug socket. That's the one with the rubber insulation in the bottom to grip onto the porcelain here, make it easier to remove and install the plug, a long extension capable of getting down into the spark plug tubes into the motor, a ratchet, and a torque wrench.

Open the hood and secure the hood prop. On the top of your motor you'll see these four rubber boots. If you remove those, beneath each one is the connection to your spark plug. Down inside that tube there is the spark plug itself.

I like to do the spark plugs one at a time, moving down the motor. That way there's no risk of confusing the wires. We'll start with number one, which is on the passenger side here. Pull up and remove the boot. We're going to use a 5/8 spark plug socket for this. The difference between a spark plug socket and a regular socket is you can see that little rubber bushing in the bottom of the socket itself. That's going to hold the porcelain on the plug making it easier to remove and install. We'll also use a long extension and a ratchet. Set it down and rotate it until you feel it grab the spark plug, remove the spark plug.

After removing your spark plugs, an important step is checking the condition of the plugs you removed. You can see that ours has some light brown ash-like deposit on the tips, and while this may look very concerning, it's usually a result of various fuel or oil additives. All it means is that your cars spark plugs aren't liking the specific brand of fuel you use, or you're possibly getting an oil leak into the combustion chamber. If you don't notice a loss of oil in the vehicle, a blue smoke, or a burning oil smell while driving, then you may consider changing the brand of fuel you use most often in your vehicle. Otherwise, if you have symptoms of oil burn, like loss of oil, a blueish smoke coming from the tail pipe, or a burning oil smell, you'll want to check the rings of the pistons as well as the seals and valve guides in the head, which can cause oil leaks into the cylinder. While our number one spark plug had only light ashy buildup on it, you can see that our number four spark plug has a much heavier, darker buildup.

When we removed the plug, it was actually wet with oil, meaning that it's more likely that our oil additives are what is causing the ashy buildup, as opposed to being a fuel additive, which is also a possible cause. The simple way to check is to do a compression test to ensure that our rings are okay and controlling the oil appropriately, as well as removing our valve cover and checking the condition of our valve seals.

To give you an idea, here's the new spark plug we'll be installing in our vehicle. You can see that we have a nice clean electrode, both in the center and on the outside, nice clean threads, bright white porcelain insulator below the center electrode. A normally worn spark plug, meaning that the engine is operating properly and the spark plug is the correct heat range, will darken slightly, become possibly a light brown or gray color throughout here, as well as maybe some yellowing or graying of the white porcelain insulator at the bottom. The center electrode, while flush with the outside ones now, will become slightly shorter, will be free of any kind of deposit, be it dark from fuel or oil, free of any wetness from fuel or oil, and free of tan or white buildups from fuel additives, oil additives, or possibly the engine running to lean or too hot.

You can see all the spark plugs are identical. One important thing to check here is this number 11 on the porcelain of our new plug and the 11 at the end of the number on our old plug. It tells us that they are both the same heat range, which is very important for an engine. You can see we have the same threads, same connector at the top here, and the same two outer one inner electrode setup. If your old spark plugs are worn out, causing your engine to run rough or showing some concerns of the plug being improper or the engine not running right, then these new spark plugs from 1A Auto are going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.

Install your new spark plug into your spark plug socket, bring it down as far as you can by hand. Once you can't turn it by hand, use a torque wrench and tighten the plug to 13 foot-pounds. Now, the tricky thing about the rubber bushing inside of that spark plug socket is to remove it. You may have to walk around the top of the extension before you can pull it out without leaving the socket stuck to the plug. Reinstall the plug wire until it clicks into place, repeat this process on the remaining three cylinders. Remove the hood prop, close your hood, and you're ready to go.

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Hi, folks. We've got these NGK spark plugs. You can buy them at 1AAuto.com. We're going to put a fresh set into our 2008 Outback with a single overhead cam 25 in it, so if you need tune up parts or any other parts for your vehicle, visit 1AAuto.com.

We've been selling parts for over 30 years. You'll get the best service on the internet, and fast and free shipping. Open the hood. Go under here, release lever. There's a little indicator, a little pictograph of a car. Release lever for the hood is here. Lift up on the hood, find the safety. It's right here about the grill, so push it to the passenger side, and just put the prop right up. You put your hood in the service position by lifting it up, and if you follow down here, you put the prop rod in this extra little hole here on the hood. Let that sit there, and now your hood is opened higher and you've got some more space to work.

If you're working on your Subaru here, the coil pack is right here with the plug wires running off of it. These two wires run down to the passenger side. There's cylinder number three and number one, and you can follow them down to the cylinder head, and that's where you'll find your spark plugs. If you follow the other two wires across, these are cylinder four and two. Again, those will go down into the cylinder head. We'll start here on the driver's side in the rear cylinder. This will be cylinder number four.

I'm just going to reach down. You don't want to pull the plug boot out by the wire. It's got these nice little rubber tabs here, you can grab onto it and pull it out. It might have a little bit of a suction to them. You've got to give it a good tug. Work it around a little bit. Lift it up. You want to do these one at a time so you don't mix them up. Lift this up here, put it aside. I'm going to use this 5/8 spark plug socket. This is special because it does have a rubber insert that holds the spark plug so when I take it out, it doesn't fall on me. 5/8 fits these, and I've got a combination of extensions. You're just going to have to find the right combination that fits in there.

Now, I can take this little extension off and maneuver it into place, and then I can stick this little shorter extension on here. We'll push it over the spark plug, so I can feel it's on there. Take the ratchet. It's pretty tight in here. Might have to work at it a little bit. It should come pretty easily. It shouldn't be torqued in here too terribly tight.

Start to loosen it up with the ratchet, and when you feel it get loose enough, you can reach in here with your fingers, take it out the rest of the way. I'm going to take this little short extension out so I can get it off. Just slide it out of here. So you can see that socket holds the spark plug in place. Just take it out.

Here we've got our old spark plug we pulled from our vehicle. See it does have some wear in it, a little bit of oil. That's pretty normal. The car probably does need valve cover gaskets, but I'm not going to worry too much about that right now. Here's our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. You can see if you match these up, they're the same length so they'll fit in the cylinder correctly, and the same type of crush gasket here. The original was NGK, the new ones are NGK's, so these will bolt right in and work great for you.

We'll put our new spark plug into the socket. It holds it in place. Go down in here. These don't need to be gapped. They're pre-gapped. Carefully slide it into the cylinder head. Make sure you thread it down in by hand. I need that little extra extension. You don't want to cross thread these, so make sure you feel them go in nicely. I like to thread them all the way down ‘til I can't thread them anymore with my hand, and then I'll tighten them.

The torque on these is 15 foot-pounds. You just need to crush the little sealing gasket that's on the end of them. If you can't get a torque wrench in here, you probably can't, it's pretty tight, so let me just get the ratchet in here to line up. I'm going to thread it down, and when I feel it get tight, I'll go about a half turn more, and that should be enough to seat that gasket. You don't want to over-tighten these. You don't need to kill them when you're putting them in. That's tight, and then I'll just go a little bit more, right there.

You can reinstall the plug wire and boot. At this point, if you want to change these, you can do that. Additionally, if you want to add a little bit of dielectric grease here and on the end, feel free. We're just going to install them as is. These ones are in pretty good shape. Feed that into the opening. It should seat itself right on the spark plug, just make sure it pushes down. It'll kind of snap into place, and it goes back into this little carrier here, and we'll do the front cylinder.

This one here, we'll do the same exact as the rear one, and we'll just start by pulling off the boot.

To get to the spark plugs on this side, the passenger side, so we're going to remove the air box to give us access. We'll start over here at the intake duct. This has some push clips here, so I'll use a push clip tool to pry them out. Just pop them up. Do the same for both, and this will pull right out and lift up. Put that aside.

We've got to loosen this hose clamp. You're going to need to use a flat bladed screw driver or I'm going to use an 8 millimeter socket. I think using the socket ratchet is easier, but if you don't have access to it, just use a flat bladed screw driver. Loosen it up, slide it off, and unplug the mass air flow meter here. Push in the lock, pull it out. You might have to hold onto the box. You don't need to remove it from this air box. You can just unplug it.

So there's a stud with a nut here holding in the air box. I'm going to loosen that up with a ratcheting wrench that's a 10 millimeter. If it's loose enough, I'll take it off with my fingers, if I can get my fingers in here. It's still kind of tight. It's a little bit rusty, so I'll keep taking it off. I'll try not to drop it. Put that aside so we don't lose it.

There's a 10 millimeter bolt down here. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket and a long extension. I'm just going to take it all the way out, make it a little bit easier. Pull the air box up and out. It sometimes might be... This one wasn't clipped, but it should be clipped on this power steering line here. If it is, just pop it out. Maneuver it out of the engine compartment. Try not to pull any hoses out with it.

We'll start on this rear cylinder here. Reach down, this will be just like the driver's side. Pull on these rubber flaps. You don't want to pull on the spark plug wire. Just kind of work the boot out. Put this aside, and just move this connector out of the way.

We'll put our spark plug socket and extension down into the opening. This wire is in the way. Just kind of maneuver it in there. I'll get the other little extension. Just use a combination of extensions that works for you. Make sure it's seated on the spark plug. It feels like it is. Use a ratchet to remove it. Slide it out of there. It's getting tight, we'll go just a little bit more to seat the gasket. You're all set.

Reinstall the spark plug boot. Make sure it's seated, and we'll move onto the next one. You do the same for the front cylinder. Reinstall the boot and the wire.

We'll reinstall the air box. I'm just going to feed it back into the fender well here. You have to maneuver it around some hoses and wires. Make sure we don't break this air flow sensor wire. Put that stud in the opening there. Make sure you don't lose your hose clamp here. Make sure you put the bolt part where you can reach it, so usually like that. Align this up here. Push it over. This will help you get it in place. This power steering line clips into this hook right here. Put this bolt down into here. Tighten it up. Once I feel it get tight, stop.

I'll reinstall this nut here. A little tricky because my hand wants to push the air box away as I'm trying to thread it on. Let's get it started. Just thread it on as far as it will go, and then I'll use my ratcheting wrench to finish it up. I'll just get it tight, just snug it up. You don't have to over-tighten it. Once you feel it get tight, you can stop.

Then, we'll find our mass air flow meter plug. It's very important you don't forget to plug this back in. It'll click when it locks in place. Tighten up our hose clamp. Once you feel it get tight, stop.

These little push clips, they've got a little rubber grommet on them. I'm just going to take it off. Just simply slide it off, and I'll push it back in where it originally went. This will make it easier to reinstall with these already in here. You've got to push them in place. Do the same for the other one. This part will fit into the air box. We'll slide it in. Line it up on the radiator support. Put the push clips in. The job is complete.

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