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Hi Everyone, I'm Don from 1AAuto.com. In this series of videos we're going to be focusing on vehicle diagnostic and maintenance tips. We hope that you find it helpful, and when you need parts for your car or truck, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to diagnose a problem with the heat coming out of the blower motor in the passenger compartment. There's a bunch of different things that could be wrong with it. The temperature gauge isn't getting all the way up to where it should be, there's a check engine light on, so I suspect that we're going to have an issue possibly with an ECT sensor or a thermostat, but let's walk through the paces here and start with checking codes, and let's go from there.
This is pretty common for many Volvos: S80, S60, V70 cross country, and an XE90 from say 2000 to 2007. Let's start with the basics, check some codes, we'll go from there. All right, so we've been driving the car for quite a bit of time and normally the temperature gauge should be right in the center. You can see here it's not. It's been that way for several weeks. We also have a check engine light that's come on, so what we'll do is hook up our OBD2 scan tool, and the place where you connect it is down here. This is common for most of the Volvos in this generation.
With the flap down, connect your tool, and let it connect. Note that I have the key in position two. This particular one I have to hit the link button, but with several of the other models, just follow the instruction on the screen and it'll walk you through it. Waiting here while it talks to the engine management computer, and let's see what we've got as a code. Okay. This is a generic code, it's a P0118 and it's engine coolant temperature sensor, so we know we've got an issue. What I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and clear it, see if it's successful. Okay. So we're good. Now what we can do is shut the key off, and let's go to take a look at our engine coolant temperature sensor and the thermostat.
Let's locate the ECT sensor and the thermostat. At the top of your engine here, this is a non-turbo, like we mentioned before. If it was a turbo, you'd have a pipe going over this way. Regardless, it's still not going to get in your way. This is your thermostat housing, this is the connector that goes to the ECT sensor, which is mounted down below here. In order to get to that, we're going to take this off. Before we do that, we're going to drain a little coolant out so that it doesn't spill out, and it's a good idea to check this thermostat because it could be broken and it could be causing the readings in the ECT sensor to set that code, so that's what we'll go ahead and do now.
First thing you're going to want to do when you drain the coolant, is carefully open up your overflow tank. Now we're going to put the car up in the air. You don't necessarily have to put the car up in the air to get to the drain on the bottom of the radiator, but that's what we're going to do. I'll show you where that is now. All right, so that's the drain. It's a 13mm. You're going to use a deep socket, an extension, and a ratchet. Now we're going to put the car back down just to show you how easy it is to do it even without the lift.
I've got my tools together, I've got my pan down here, I'm going to go up with it, give it a couple not all the way up, a couple two or three turns, and we'll let that drain for a little bit. You don't have to drain the entire thing. All right, we've got about a gallon in our pan so I'm going to go up and re-install or tighten, I should say, the drain plug.
In order to get to this back bolt here on the thermostat housing, we're going to remove this cover, and we're going to do so using a T30 bit on just these two screws that hold this cover in place. Now you're going to see that there's a tab here, and just the same on the back side. Those, pull this off, now we've got plenty of access here. You can see here my ratchet configuration. I've got a Torx 40 bit, little bit of an extension ratchet, and I'm going to go down and start removing these two Torx 40s. Now we can go ahead and pull that off.
Let's pull out our thermostat and see what's going on. We're going to use a 3/4" wrench to remove our ECT sensor. First we're going to disconnect it. Here are our two parts. I'm suspecting that this is an old thermostat and that it's sticking based upon some of the marks that have been made on it. We're going to go ahead and replace this, and we're going to go ahead and replace the ECT sensor as well because we wouldn't want it to be faulty and set another code.
We're going to go ahead and do that now with our new parts from 1A Auto. Here's a new part from 1A Auto, make sure you have a washer on there. Go ahead and thread it in. Now we're going to go ahead and plug it back in. Snap that into place.
Now we're ready for the thermostat. The thermostat is going to come with a gasket. You're going to want to make sure the gasket is correctly installed, and there's another important point you want to note. There's a little bit of an air breather right here that should be at the highest point, which is right here on the thermostat housing. Once that's in place, go ahead and put your cover back on, and start re-installing your Torx 40s.
Go ahead and put the cover back on, reinstall the two Torx 25s. We're almost finished now. We're going to refill the coolant. I'm using a screen filter, and reinstalling our coolant. Don't forget the cap. Now I'm going to move it outside and see if we corrected the issue. We'll let it warm up for a little bit.
Well, you guys, we've had the car out here running for a little bit. Let's go ahead and see if we fixed it. As you can see on the temperature gauge, it's right where it's supposed to be. No check engine light.
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