1998 Audi A4 Sedan Windshield Washer Pump TRQ WWA06634

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the windshield washer pump. This is a 2007 Audi A4. The procedure is pretty much the same for 1998-2009 A4s. There may be some differences during the different generations. Items you'll need include a new pump from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, flat blade and Phillips screwdrivers, T25 and T30 Torx driver, 10mm socket, ratchets, extensions and a flex joint, flashlight, and a little bit of oil.

Using a jack and jack stands or a lift will make the repair easier. We do it to make filming easier, lets us get the camera in there much better. You want to look for this little triangle. That just is a reference point, and really where you want to put the jack and jack stand is where the red circle is on under the pinch weld. It's the same for both sides.

Starting on the front, up underneath, there are three flat blade fasteners. You just turn these counterclockwise about a half to a turn and they come out. Sometimes sand and gunk can get in there and make them hard, but there are three: one in the middle, and then two to the side, and I am missing one on this vehicle.

Inside each wheel well, there's a series of fasteners. They should be T25 screws, but I found a couple Phillips screws, and then there was even one flat blade screw in here, but you want to remove these T25 screws. Then on the other side, you want to turn your wheels the other way because sometimes getting these lower ones is a little easier with the wheels turned the other way. Then that there is a push pin that you just need to pull on to get it out. If need be, you may want to work a flat blade screwdriver in behind to pull that plug out. You can see I can just grip the inner fender, and pull on it firmly and remove that push-in plug.

I'll fast-forward here. I'm using a T25 Torx driver on a socket and ratchet as well as a Phillips screwdriver. Remove all of the fasteners in the wheel well. Obviously, I'm doing this on one side. You want to repeat this on the other side as well.

Pull your inner fender back, and there are two more T25 screws here and here. We'll remove those. Push the plastic wheel lining in towards the center of the car and pull it back. There are two studs positioned right there that go into the fender, and they're held by two 10mm nuts, as I'm going to show you right here. Here you can see, circled in red, are those two 10mm nuts that you need to remove, and again, you need to do this on both sides.

To get to those nuts, I use a flex joint on the end, and that's a deep socket 10mm. I use a couple of extensions to make it easier to get in there. As you saw, I just put a light up in there just to give me some light. Obviously, this is where a flashlight will come in handy to see better what you're doing. I'll just fast-forward as I remove those two 10mm nuts.

On the driver's side, the washer bottle creates a little bit of a tight space, but using the same ratchet and extensions and flex joint, you can get in there. I can even get my hand in there to get the nuts off once they're loose. On top, there are three T30 bolts to remove: one in the center, one on the side, and one on the other side. Down in these holes are actually two T30 bolts that you just need to loosen up.

There's a couple little cushions that just kind of pinch on to the bumper cover. Having the flashlight helps look down into those holes and see the T30 Torx bolts. You may find that these are rusty, so you have to make sure that you really get your Torx driver down inside them. You just need to get them loose and loosen them up maybe one or two turns. I'll just fast-forward here as I remove those three T30 Torx bolts.

Now you need to release each side of the cover and pull the cover off. Beware if you have fog lights there, there's another connection that you have to remove. Final step, disconnect this connector, push the tab on the top with your thumb and pull the connector, and your cover is off.

Four T30 bolts, three hold the headlights. Loosen this one, remove this one, and then down in here there's another one you have to loosen. Then remove this side fender bolt. Pull the headlight out, disconnect the lead, press on the tab, pull it down.

You want to disconnect this harness here, just a tab. Sometimes you have to push against the inner cooler. Pull the tab and pull it off. Loosen up this hose clamp and then pull the hose off. Pull this hose down on a clip and loosen the hose clamp and remove this inner cooler hose, and you may get some oil that drips out when you do it. You shouldn't, but you may. This little clip down here, pry down, pull this off, and bring it down and out. Then just grab your inner cooler firmly and pull it forward. It's also held in on top, so you pull up.

Now your washer pumps are easy to access. If you've got fluid in here, still you'll want to disconnect this just by turning and pulling. Then your fluid is going to come out, so have a nice, clean bucket ready to catch it. Grab your pump and pull it up, and then all your fluid is going to come out. Once the pump is out, just press on that tab, disconnect.

Old part from the vehicle, new part from 1AAuto. You can see it's exactly the same. It's going to install the same and fix up your problem.

Put your new pump down in place. Make sure this rubber grommet is in place. Push down and turn it. Reconnect the new line and reconnect your lead. You're going to work your inner cooler in from the bottom, back up in. Get your two clips on the top and push it back. Just make sure that those cushions stay down. Push it in up there and pull the bottom out and over. Make sure the bottom's in. Make sure the top's in. Reconnect this hose.

Put this hose back up in the clip, and then tighten this clamp up. Reconnect this lead and put your inner cooler hose back on and tighten. When it's all set, these two tabs go up under here and then it snaps in place. I'm going to get it in place first, push it down, then up and on. Then reinstall the light.

Make sure you plug in the lead. There should be a nice clicking sound. Put the light back in place. Put a top bolt in, tighten it up, and then tighten up this one and right down into this one. Then reinstall the side bolt for the fender. Put the bumper cover back on. Remember to re-plug the harness if you have fog lights. Then lift the cover up into place.

You want to make sure that those two bolts that you loosened, make sure that the forks that are in the bumper cover go around those retainers and go in correctly. I'll show you here in a second. It can be a little difficult to line up the cover between the headlight and the mounting points inside. I kind of give a little force; it doesn't quite go. What you need to do is kind of push this or pull the headlight to the side so you can line up down inside. It's a little difficult to see, but you'll see ... I mess with it a little bit. It's one of those things that once you get it, it goes in very easily, but it's just a little difficult to get. What I end up doing is pulling the headlight to the side so that the bumper cover can go in correctly and easily.

As you can see, once you get it right, it goes right in nice and easy. Do it for one side, and since I figured it out, it's really easy on the other side, goes right in. Then latch the sides into place. I'll speed up here as I put those three bolts in at the top as well as tighten up the two T30 retainers that are down inside the holes. I'll continue to fast-forward, put in the two nuts that hold the cover to the fronts of the fenders, tighten those up. Then we'll put in all the T25 and Phillips screws that hold the inner fenders in.

The only part I don't show is you obviously want to put the three flat blade screwdriver retainers back into the bottom and you should be all set.

Refill your washer fluid.

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