Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Rotors do not include wheel bearings or seals.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
This video is part one of a two part series. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brakes on this 2001 S10 pickup and this vehicle is a two wheel drive. In this video, we take you from removing the brakes to getting the new rotors ready for installation. Tools you'll need for this job are jack and jack stands, 19 mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench, a 3/8ths Allen wrench, a combination wrench for some more leverage and you'll see what I mean, wire brush or some medium sandpaper to clean up some of the bolts, 27 mm socket and ratchet, pliers, a torque wrench, bearing grease and a hammer and block of wood to drive in the seal on the back of your rotor.
Okay, we'll speed up through the first step. Use your socket or your lug wrench and remove the lug nut caps and then remove the wheel center cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools as I do here, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts while your tire's on the ground first, then raise and support the vehicle, remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. Okay, so now a quick inspection of the brakes. You can see this pad actually looks pretty good up here. It's got pretty good life left on the outer. Little finger test of the rotor, pretty smooth on this side. Then looking at our inner pad, I'm turning the rotor right there, you can see this is the metal of the pad right here, its right against the rotor. Then you can see right down here the metal of the pad against the rotor and you can hear it.
If you feel on the backside, and I'll show you this after I take the disc off, there are significant grooves worn into this rotor. Next we'll remove the caliper and one thing I'm going to do is I'm going to use a large screwdriver to pry out here and then I'm going to remove two bolts; one here and then one right down here. Here is the body of our caliper and here is the caliper piston. Our brakes are so worn that our caliper piston is way out, so what I'm going to do is use a large screwdriver, put it in there, and I'm prying out. If you watch the piston, it actually starts moving back into the caliper. Looks like I've gotten them to move a little bit. This also helps you to get the calipers off, so you can see now that my pads are not right against the disc.
Next you'll want to remove the two caliper bolts with a 3/8ths Allen wrench inserted into the bolt. Then take a good sized wrench, put it onto the Allen wrench, give you some more leverage, start loosening up that bolt. I'm just going to fast forward here, because I use the Allen wrench and my other wrench for leverage and remove those two bolts that hold the calipers. With those two bolts out, the caliper comes off, our outside pad comes right out and our inside pad will come out. To remove the rotor, take a rag, wipe the grease out of here, and there is a cotter pin right here. If you're going to remove your rotor, then use a screwdriver and hammer and remove your dust cap. Ignore the wheel and tire that's still on there, this was just shot kind of out of order. Take a good pair of needle head pliers, if you can bend it up, pull it out. That's a good thing, sometimes what's easiest to do is just take the ends and bend them, break them off, and that makes it easy to pull out. This one's coming out fairly easily.
This truck has a 27 mm bolt and it's not uncommon to be able to put this on there and just undo it by hand. You don't tighten this bolt up significantly. Take the bolt off. The bearing assembly, the washer comes right off. Take off my rotor, the bearing stays put for now and we'll take that out so it doesn't fall out. Here's my new rotor and hub from 1A Auto with the race installed. I'm going to take a good amount of wheel bearing grease and coat the inside of the hub. I'm going to put a light coat on the race itself. You don't want to have globs on the race, you just want to have a nice, light coat on there. Then I'm going to take my bearing and I'm going to work grease right into the cracks where I can see the bends of the rollers. It's in the front side, we'll work it right into this crack right here and I'm going to kind of coat the roller; the roller's outside. Not quite so much, just a good coating. Then I'm going to take my finger and wipe out the inside here, don't want any big globs of grease in there.
Now drop my bearing right in. Now I'm going to take my seal and drop it all in like that. You can use a piece of wood or something like that, I'm just using a larger block of metal, larger bearing installer, just to make sure that's nice and evenly installed. I'll take the rotor, keep it from the plastic, flip it over, and then we're just going to take some grease and just like on the backside, pack it in there a little bit. Let a light coating stay on the race itself, but not a lot. We'll end this video here, and if you want to see the rest of putting this back together, reinstalling it, just search for the same video with part two.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. This video is part two of a two part series. We will pick it up and replay a couple of scenes from the first video. We are showing you how to do a brake job, a front brake job, on this 2001 S-10, and this is a two-wheel drive truck. Here we'll go through just a quick review of the tools that you're going to need.
Now I'm going to take my seal and drop it on like that. You can use a piece of wood, or something like that. I'm just using a larger block of metal, a larger bearing installer. Just make sure that that's nice and evenly installed. Take our rotor, keep it on the plastic, flip it over. We're just going to take some grease and, just like on the back side, just kind of pack it in there a little bit. Let a light coating stay on the rings itself, but not a lot. Take some paper towels, wipe off your spindle here. You want to check for any - You can just run your finger on here with a little grease on it. I can see some markings here, but there's no real wear on the spindle. The two surfaces, one here where the inner bearing is, and here where the outer bearing is, there's no real wear on the spindle, so the bearings weren't spinning good. Take control with the grease on the outer bearing. Pack it into that crevice on the back.
Put our rotor in place. Notice I'm just trying not to touch the rotor a lot with my greasy fingers. We've got our bearing in place. Clean the ugly grease off of our washer. Put the washer on. Put our bolt on. We're putting it on there. We got to take our ratchet and we're going to pull it a little bit tight, and we're going to spin the rotor around a little bit. We're going to loosen this up and we're going to pull it tight again. Just barely, probably like two or three foot pounds, not a lot. Next, we'll put our nut back on. We're going to pull it kind of tight. We're going to just rotate the rotor a little bit that seats the bearings, and then you're going to loosen this. Then we're going to bring it so it's just starting to seat, and you pull it just a little bit, probably two or three foot pounds. Put this on through and then grab the end, bend it over, and it's not going to come off.
We're going to put our dust cap back on and make sure there's no harmful dust in it. Now use mineral spirits or break parts cleaner, make sure you don't have any grease on the rotor surface. Also do the inside. Now we're going to take our calipers and we're going to push these sleeves out. Wire brush them, make sure there's no deep grooves, or any grooves on them really. All we need to do is push this piston back in. As you can see, I've got a big C-clamp on there, using my old brake pad and push on the piston. As I tighten the C-clamp, the piston goes back into the caliper. This should do just - This will require a little bit of pressure, but it should do it pretty easily. That's the way you know that the caliper is still in good shape. Here's my inner pad, comes with a little clip. Install that into the hole, and then pull it down and on, like that. Make sure you don't get any grease or anything on the pad. Install your pad into the caliper. We've got some pretty good scale on these, so I'm just using a screwdriver, scraping it off first. Then I'll go back with the wire brush. Your outer pad. There's a wear tab on this inner pad. You want to make sure that wear tab goes to the bottom. Put the caliper right down on, it's going to grab hold of the pads.
We've got our caliper bolts all cleaned up. Use some medium grit sandpaper if you need to. You just want to make sure you get all the stuff off them. Then put a nice fine coating of anti-seize on here. You could also use some grease or something. We're also going to put it on these collars here. These should go in. I'm just going to fast-forward here as I put those bolts in with my 3/8 Allen wrench. Then I use my other larger combination wrench for some extra torque when I'm tightening them. These bolts should be tightened between 45 and 50 foot pounds. I use the wrench. Put it on the Allen wrench for some leverage and pull it pretty tight, and then straighten the wheels out so I can put the tires on. Keeping the speed going, I've installed the wheel and tire back on, put the lug nuts on by hand first, and then I'll use my impact wrench just to tighten them up preliminarily.
I'll torque these to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Speed up as I finish torqueing. When I say use a star pattern, I just trace the bolts in a pattern like a star. Basically, like you would draw a star, and then put the center cap on, and install the plastic lug covers. Use your socket just to tighten the lug covers up until they click. Very important, pump your brakes and then do a trial stop from 5 miles an hour before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us Toll Free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet, and in person.
