2006 Dodge Durango Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11086

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 Dodge Durango, pretty much the same for any 2004 to 2009 Durango as well as the same year Chrysler Aspen. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 13mm to 22mm sockets with a ratchet, large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, hammer, a wire brush, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.

If you don't have the benefit of air tools start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first then raise and support the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire. Okay, turn the wheel by hand or with the steering wheel to get better access to the back of the caliper. Next take a large screwdriver or a small pry bar, put it right in here and pry it out. This helps to return the piston back into the caliper a little bit, it loosens it up. Next, there are two 13mm bolts to remove, here and up here. These bolts should not be on there too tight so you should be able to get off with the small ratchet. Once those are out, then your caliper should come off. Here I just find that I need to pry out and reset the pistons a little more with the big screwdriver. Take the caliper and put it up there. Then the pads come right out.

You can see the pads are pretty thin. On this side, do the same thing. On these rotors, take the back of your fingernail and you can run it on the front and back side, you want to feel for any deep grooves. If there's no deep grooves and you have no pulsating in your brake pedal then you can usually install new pads as long as these are in good shape. I'm going to show you how to put new rotors on.

You're going to remove two larger bolts here and here next. These two bolts are going to be on there very tight, so either you want a breaker bar like this or what I do a lot is I take my ratchet and I put a piece of pipe on there, that gives me some extra leverage and then you just slowly add force to the pipe until the bolts start breaking free. Always go nice and slow and smoothly. I'll just speed it up here as I just use my ratchet to remove those two bolts the rest of the way. Those bolts are 22mms. That bracket comes off. Your hope is that, with a little tapping, the rotor will come off. If that doesn't work, what I do is I put the lug nuts back on and use the ball head on the ball peen hammer.

Here's a new rotor from 1A Auto; put it right in place. The next thing you want to do is take one of your old pads, and bring your caliper down. It's tough to show you, but just stick your old pad in there. Then take a large C-clamp like this, put into place and then as you tighten the C-clamp, the pistons get pushed back into the caliper. In order to put the new pads on you'll have to do this. Release that. Take that out. Now these pistons are back, pushed into the caliper.

Now on our caliper bracket, I'm just going to take a wire brush and clean off these stainless steel slides. Put our bracket on. I'm just going to fast forward here. Basically just move the bracket around a little bit, push those bolts in and thread them clockwise and they'll go in. Then tighten them up preliminarily with your ratchet and socket. Pull these to 110 foot pounds.

Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You generally want this wear indicator on the outside, facing the top. They go in just like before, put them right in place and together. Then bring our -- on the caliper there's slides here, make sure they are nice and free and you want to push them all the way, push them out as far as you can. Now, put the bottom on first. There's a little tab down here, get that under the slide here. What you might have to do sometimes is push your disk in and make sure all the pads are in the right place. Pull this out a little bit and get everything down into place. It's just a matter of finding the holes for the bolts. Get them started. Then these bolts should be tightened up around 20 to 22 foot pounds. I usually pull them tight with a small wrench like this.

Then straighten the steering back out either with your hands or by using the steering wheel. Then remount your wheel and tire, put the lug nuts on by hand first, then tighten them preliminarily before you put the vehicle down on the ground. Obviously we show you the passenger's side, but you'll want to do the driver's side. Always do your brakes in pairs. Now tighten your lug nuts up anywhere from a 100 to 120 foot pounds. Last but not least, make sure that you pump your brake pedal until you get it nice and firm and then do test stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1aauto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.