Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2005 Ford Excursion. It's the same parts and similar process on this vehicle from 2000 to 2005. We'll show you on the driver's side, but the passenger's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this are new brake pads and rotor kid from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 17 and 21 millimeter socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage, large C-clamp, a hammer, torque wrench, brake grease, brake cleaner, and jack and jack stands.
Start off using the flat blade screwdriver, and just pry in this slot to remove this cap, and then you can access your 21 millimeter lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you're going to want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground. Then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Now you can pull the wheel free.
Next, remove these two 17 millimeter bolts, and you want to use your socket and ratchet with your piece of pipe to help break them free, and then you can just remove them the rest of the way by hand, or using your ratchet. Pry inside the slot here to just push in the caliper piston, and this will help you to be able to pull off the caliper. You can just set that aside. Now, remove these two springs, and then pry out the brake pads. These brake pads aren't in great condition, so we'll just fast forward as he removes the other one.
Now, remove these two 21 millimeter bolts on the back of your bracket, again, using the piece of pipe for extra leverage to help break them free, and then you can just use the ratchet alone to remove them the rest of the way. Now you can pull the bracket free. Now, to help get your rotor free, you may need to hit it on the back with the hammer, and that will loosen it up, and you can pull it off.
On the left, is the old brake pads and rotor. On the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Using brake cleaner or mineral spirits, you want to just wipe down your brake rotor. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of the brake pads, and then check the slides on your caliper bracket. Make sure that they move in and out freely, and if you feel like you need more grease, just apply some grease.
Now, push your new rotor into place. Push your brake caliper bracket into place, and replace those 21 millimeter bolts that hold it. We'll fast forward as Don does this, and then tightens those up. Then you want to torque these to about 100 foot-pounds. Push your brake pads into place, and then replace those springs. Put an old brake pad into your caliper over those two pistons, and just use this large C-clamp to push the pistons in.
Now, push your caliper back into place in the bracket, and then replace those two 17 millimeter bolts. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque both of those to about 60 foot-pounds.
Take your wheel and put it back into place on those studs, and then you want to replace the lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then, torque each of those lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Then replace the cap.
Check your brake fluid level. Make sure it's where it needs to be, and then pump the brakes until they firm up, and then do a stopping test from five miles per hour, then ten miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
