2008 Isuzu Ascender Front 16 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA59350

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, 10mm, 22mm and 26mm wrenches, flat blade screwdriver, tape measure, pliers, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.

Start by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.

Start off by just spraying both ends of your outer rod with some penetrating oil. This will just help to remove those nuts. Then you want to measure from the end of the first nut on the outer tie rod to the center of this nut. You can see we actually marked on the outer tie rod where you should measure to. You want to make sure when you put your new outer tie rod on that it's the same distance.

Put a 26mm wrench on the larger nut and a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut. Just break that smaller one free. Now, using a pair of pliers, just straighten out this cotter pin. Once it's straightened out, try to hit it through or pull it through. If it doesn't move, then you can just break off this end. You just move each tab up and down until it breaks off. After you've done that, you can again try pulling it from the other side. If that doesn't work, you can just use a hammer and a punch.

Using a 21mm socket, just remove that nut. Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer. That will just break that free. Then you can just twist your outer tie rod off. Now, just remove that nut on the outer tie rod the rest of the way.

I can see that my bolt was on to here, so I'm just going to make a mark on the new one to here. That's where I'm going to put my bolt onto, just a preliminary alignment. Twist the outer tie rod into place. Make sure that rubber boot is back on there. Then push the outer tie rod up into the wheel knuckle.

Just measure and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you want to just adjust the nuts on the end of the outer tie rod. Since it is, we're just going to replace this nut and tighten it up. You can see we're using a 10mm wrench to just hold the stud steady. Now just tighten up these two nuts.

Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way, and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front wheel bearing hub on this 2004 Trailblazer. This is the same for many 02' to 09' Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 9-7X, as well as Isuzu Ascenders. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, a breaker bar or pipe, if you need some extra leverage. I actually didn't need the extra leverage on this vehicle, but I do show you how to use it, flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large c-clamp to reset the pistons in the caliper, torque wrench, 35-millimeter socket, which is something that most toolboxes don't have, but you do need that 35-millimeter socket and then jack and jack stands.

Start by prying your cap off. That's a 19 millimeter and if you don't have air tools, you want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nut, then raise it, port it with jack stands and then remove the wheel and the tire. I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts and then removing the wheel and tire.

Now either pull or using the steering wheel, turn your wheels, so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now, we're going to check the condition of the brakes. Now, I spin this, you'll the rotor move. Okay. Then right to the right there, there's actually your pad. As you can see, there's not that much life left and it's not looking well on the outside either. We're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here and a bolt down here and then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is two large bolts, 18 millimeter one here and one up here.

The bolts on the caliper, relatively easy, 13 millimeter, use a small wrench. We'll just speed it up here as I remove those two bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off. You can put that over here. Okay. These are 18-millimeter bolts for the caliper bracket. You're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay. As you can see, it actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this, you just have a ratchet, you can put a piece of pipe on to give you extra leverage and pull it easy on the pipe and it should have come loose.

When you're all the way up, you can just take your pads off. Take your screwdriver, which should pretty easily pry out. All right. You can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear and tear. It's actually just about at the end of its life.

We'll fast forward again as we remove those two 18-millimeter bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, that comes off. Then your discs should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded holes and you need to use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there and the bolts crack against the hub to push them out. Okay. These rotors are pretty crusty looking so I am going to replace them using a 35-millimeter socket. If you don't have an impact wrench, what you'll need to do is, you'll do this at the beginning, you pull that cap off your wheel and then with the big breaker bar and a pipe, you'll loosen this hub nut. Because I have an impact wrench, I can do it this way.

When you're replacing the hub, you don't want to go just hammering away on the axle because you can damage your CV joint, but most of the time, if you just give this one good whack, you'll see that it's broken loose. Basically, just watch the relationship of your axle to your hub when you give it a good hit. Okay and it moved just fine. Just a note, I've yet to have a GM car, where just hitting it with the hammer once didn't break it free.

Right in behind there are three bolts, one here, one up there and then there's one around the back side as well, right down there. Now I get to those bolts. I'm going to take an 18-millimeter socket with a short extension. Okay, put it right on there. I'm going to use the poor man's method. I've got my ratchet and keep the pipe for leverage. Okay. Now I'm going to pull nice and easy and actually these come apart pretty nicely.

Now I'm going to speed up as I loosen the other two and remove those three bolts. Okay, your lead comes out. Okay, follow it around and we'll clip back here, push with the screwdriver, push on the other side, and push that out. Okay, and pry these right out. Now I'm going to really speed through here. All I'm going to do is follow the ABS lead up and pry out the connectors. One note is to check your new hub because that will tell you kind of how the connectors come apart, whether or not you need to pry them out of the frame or just open them up, so that you can put the new lead in.

This last connector with a tab right beside here, go in, lift up, and pull that off here. Okay, turn to the side, that out, off. All three of my bolts are off and my harness is disconnected. Just take a hammer. Okay. It all pops off. You need to get this metal shield off. Okay, get the metal shield off by using a combination of tap it off with a hammer and there's your hub. Take a wire brush here. Just clean off some of the scale. Okay, put that back on and a new hub from 1A Auto, exact same thing as the old one. Take the harness and put it back in place, work it onto the CV, push it on, take one of the bolts, put it through here, move the back end plate and start it into the hub. Grab the other two bolts.

I'm just going to speed it up as I reconnect that harness and route all the clips. It's very important to clip it back into place as it was originally, keeps the ABS harness from rubbing against anything and possibly damaging your ABS brakes.

Now we're going to put the torque on these three bolts to 90-foot pounds. I'll fast forward a little bit as I torque the other two bolts and again, I said I torqued them to 90-foot pounds. We're going to put our hub nut on and we're just going to ... we're not torquing it right now. We're just pulling the CV axle into the hub. Here, I'm going to fast forward through putting the brakes back together. If you'd like to see this in real time, just check out our video for the Trailblazer brakes and do please keep watching because I do go through torquing the center nut on the hub, as well as some other important information about what you need to do after you've had your brakes apart.

With the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120-foot pounds, kind of just using a crossing pattern. Now here, I'm going to tighten that lug nut to 103-foot pounds. Very important after doing brake work, always pump your brakes many times and then before you do a road test, make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from five miles an hour and ten miles per hour before hitting the brakes.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Please feel free to call us toll free, (888) 844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front CV axle shaft on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, 10mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a 15mm and 18mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer, jack and jack stands, and a pry bar.

Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then just loosen up this 35mm nut. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to take this nut off all the way at this point. Now, you can loosen your lug nuts as well. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Once you've loosened them, just jack the vehicle up and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull off.

The next few clips, we remove the brakes. You don't have to do this, but in my opinion it does make it easier to see back in there and get the axle out. There are two 17mm bolts that you remove to remove the caliper, hold the caliper slides with an 18mm wrench, and then pry the caliper up and off. You'll want to secure it somewhere with wire ties so that you don't stress the brake line.

Then you can remove your brake pads. Two 18mm bolts hold the caliper bracket in place. Again, you don't really have to do this, but it just helps to be able to see back in there with the rotor out of the way. Remove the two 18mm bolts using a pipe for some extra leverage, and do this slowly and smoothly so you don't break any knuckles or anything like that. The caliper bracket comes up and off. Then you can remove your caliper either by using a hammer, careful not to damage the rotor at all. If you have to hammer more than just a medium taps, then you'd want to use a couple of M12 bolts. They thread it into the holes in the rotor and help to press the rotor off.

Remove the center hub nut the rest of the way if you haven't already. Using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench, just remove this bolt. Now, using a hammer, just hit the upper control arm off the ball joint. Now, just pry open this clip and pull the harness free. You want to secure your caliper just somewhere out of the way. We just wire-tie it right here onto the backing plate.

Now, you want to remove these two 10mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, just lift up on the upper control arm and pull this back. Make sure that the axle is loosened from the hub. Okay, to get your axle out, you need to use a pry bar or some other long item. You want to put it up in, and put it on the back of the axle right where it connects to the transmission or the axle I should say. Make sure you're hitting the middle and it comes right out. If you want to do the driver's side, you'll need to remove these four 15mm bolts to pull this panel down in order to access it.

Pull your axle the rest of the way out of the differential. Move stuff around a little bit and then get it going up. I'm just going to angle it up a little bit and get it going up, in, and remove it from the hub. Careful of all your ABS wires and hoses and stuff, eventually it comes out. Up top is the old axle; below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.

Move the new axle up and in. Again, be careful of all your wires. I just feed it right into the hub. Pull it, move, just maneuver a little bit, and get all the way into your hub. Then pull on it and feed it into the axle. Careful with the seal. You want to put the steering knuckle back up in place as you go so you don't over extend the CB. I'm just going to put that in place, push your axle right in, and make sure it's locked.

Now replace your brake line bracket and the 10mm bolts that hold it into place. You just want to use the upper control arm to hold the wheel knuckle in place while you're doing this. Re-clip this harness. Now hammer your upper control arm back down into the ball joint. Replace the bolt and the nut and tighten them up. You want to tighten and then torque this nut and bolt combination to 55 to 60 foot-pounds.

You want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub. Then you just slide your rotor back into place and replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then fit the bracket into place and then just start twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Torque these two bolts to 110 foot pounds. Torque each of these to 110 foot pounds. Then just replace your brake pads and if there's no grease on the ends, just apply some brake grease.

Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds. Replace the hub nut. Remove the lug nut that you put on there to hold the rotor in place, and then put your wheel in place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Now torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque the hub nut to 103 foot-pounds. Then replace your hub cap.

After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper control arm on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 15mm and 21mm wrenches, a hammer, torque wrench, pliers, and jack and jack stands.

Start out by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, removed the lug nuts, and removed the wheel and tire.

Next, spray some penetrating oil on this 15mm bolt and then remove it using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench. Now, remove this clip here. Ours is broken, so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you would just pry the clip open with a flat blade screwdriver. Then, just pry this clip open and pull the harness free. You just use a flat blade screwdriver. Push in on the tab and it'll open up. Hit the upper control arm with a hammer to break it free. Hit it up and off the ball joint. Now, you want to secure your wheel knuckle. We're just going to use some wire ties to secure it. You could also use string or wire. You just want to make sure it's not going to move around too much.

Next, you want to remove these two 21mm bolts at the top of the control arm. Start off using a 21mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage. Just break both bolts free. Now we'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts.You won't be able to remove them entirely, but you only need to remove them so that the bolt is not sticking out past the bushing. Sometimes, the bolts may get jammed and not move as far as you need them to. Just use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. You want to hit just underneath the upper control arm. The,n you can slide down the front and then remove that bolt the rest of the way by hand. Then angle it and remove the other bolt by hand. If it's jammed in there, you only really need one out. You can angle it and pull it out. Then just use a hammer to remove that other bolt.

As you can see, this upper control arm is in bad shape. You shouldn't have that much play. Now, just pry this clip out using a small flat blade screwdriver. On the right is the old upper control arm.

On the left is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Push the back bolt in first and angle it into place. Tip the front of the upper control arm down and put the other bolt in. Then, angle it up into place. Then, just start both of those bolts in by hand until it secures the upper control arm into place. To start off, this bolt at the front, you won't be able to actually get the wrench onto it so just use a pair of pliers to tighten it in a little bit until you can get the wrench on it. We'll just fast forward as Mike tightens both of those 21mm bolts up. You're only really tightening these preliminarily.

Remove whatever you used to secure your wheel knuckle. Using a hammer, knock the upper control arm back down onto the ball joint and replace that 15mm bolt and the nut. Then just tighten it up and torque it to 15 foot-pounds. Push your clip into your new upper control arm. Re-clip the harness into it. Re-clip the harness into the clip on the wheel knuckle. Again, since ours is broken, we're just going to use a wire tie.

Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Have your vehicle back down on the ground with all the weight back on the suspension. Now you tighten up the two bolts that hold the control arm in and you want to tighten them to about roughly a hundred foot-
pounds. I'm pulling them as tight as I can with that wrench. Then, the last thing you want to do is you do want to have your alignment checked and fixed after you perform this repair.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front wheel bearing hub on this 2004 Trailblazer. This is the same for many 02' to 09' Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 9-7X, as well as Isuzu Ascenders. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, a breaker bar or pipe, if you need some extra leverage. I actually didn't need the extra leverage on this vehicle, but I do show you how to use it, flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large c-clamp to reset the pistons in the caliper, torque wrench, 35-millimeter socket, which is something that most toolboxes don't have, but you do need that 35-millimeter socket and then jack and jack stands.

Start by prying your cap off. That's a 19 millimeter and if you don't have air tools, you want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nut, then raise it, port it with jack stands and then remove the wheel and the tire. I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts and then removing the wheel and tire.

Now either pull or using the steering wheel, turn your wheels, so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now, we're going to check the condition of the brakes. Now, I spin this, you'll the rotor move. Okay. Then right to the right there, there's actually your pad. As you can see, there's not that much life left and it's not looking well on the outside either. We're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here and a bolt down here and then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is two large bolts, 18 millimeter one here and one up here.

The bolts on the caliper, relatively easy, 13 millimeter, use a small wrench. We'll just speed it up here as I remove those two bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off. You can put that over here. Okay. These are 18-millimeter bolts for the caliper bracket. You're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay. As you can see, it actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this, you just have a ratchet, you can put a piece of pipe on to give you extra leverage and pull it easy on the pipe and it should have come loose.

When you're all the way up, you can just take your pads off. Take your screwdriver, which should pretty easily pry out. All right. You can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear and tear. It's actually just about at the end of its life.

We'll fast forward again as we remove those two 18-millimeter bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, that comes off. Then your discs should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded holes and you need to use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there and the bolts crack against the hub to push them out. Okay. These rotors are pretty crusty looking so I am going to replace them using a 35-millimeter socket. If you don't have an impact wrench, what you'll need to do is, you'll do this at the beginning, you pull that cap off your wheel and then with the big breaker bar and a pipe, you'll loosen this hub nut. Because I have an impact wrench, I can do it this way.

When you're replacing the hub, you don't want to go just hammering away on the axle because you can damage your CV joint, but most of the time, if you just give this one good whack, you'll see that it's broken loose. Basically, just watch the relationship of your axle to your hub when you give it a good hit. Okay and it moved just fine. Just a note, I've yet to have a GM car, where just hitting it with the hammer once didn't break it free.

Right in behind there are three bolts, one here, one up there and then there's one around the back side as well, right down there. Now I get to those bolts. I'm going to take an 18-millimeter socket with a short extension. Okay, put it right on there. I'm going to use the poor man's method. I've got my ratchet and keep the pipe for leverage. Okay. Now I'm going to pull nice and easy and actually these come apart pretty nicely.

Now I'm going to speed up as I loosen the other two and remove those three bolts. Okay, your lead comes out. Okay, follow it around and we'll clip back here, push with the screwdriver, push on the other side, and push that out. Okay, and pry these right out. Now I'm going to really speed through here. All I'm going to do is follow the ABS lead up and pry out the connectors. One note is to check your new hub because that will tell you kind of how the connectors come apart, whether or not you need to pry them out of the frame or just open them up, so that you can put the new lead in.

This last connector with a tab right beside here, go in, lift up, and pull that off here. Okay, turn to the side, that out, off. All three of my bolts are off and my harness is disconnected. Just take a hammer. Okay. It all pops off. You need to get this metal shield off. Okay, get the metal shield off by using a combination of tap it off with a hammer and there's your hub. Take a wire brush here. Just clean off some of the scale. Okay, put that back on and a new hub from 1A Auto, exact same thing as the old one. Take the harness and put it back in place, work it onto the CV, push it on, take one of the bolts, put it through here, move the back end plate and start it into the hub. Grab the other two bolts.

I'm just going to speed it up as I reconnect that harness and route all the clips. It's very important to clip it back into place as it was originally, keeps the ABS harness from rubbing against anything and possibly damaging your ABS brakes.

Now we're going to put the torque on these three bolts to 90-foot pounds. I'll fast forward a little bit as I torque the other two bolts and again, I said I torqued them to 90-foot pounds. We're going to put our hub nut on and we're just going to ... we're not torquing it right now. We're just pulling the CV axle into the hub. Here, I'm going to fast forward through putting the brakes back together. If you'd like to see this in real time, just check out our video for the Trailblazer brakes and do please keep watching because I do go through torquing the center nut on the hub, as well as some other important information about what you need to do after you've had your brakes apart.

With the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120-foot pounds, kind of just using a crossing pattern. Now here, I'm going to tighten that lug nut to 103-foot pounds. Very important after doing brake work, always pump your brakes many times and then before you do a road test, make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from five miles an hour and ten miles per hour before hitting the brakes.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Please feel free to call us toll free, (888) 844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper ball joint on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL and we show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper ball joint from 1AAuto.com; flat blade screwdriver; 10, 15, and 19 millimeter socket and ratchet; 15 millimeter wrench; hammer; punch; snap ring pliers, depending on the condition of your old ring around your ball joint; razor; ball joint press; jack and jack stands; and a torque wrench.

Start off by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts that way. We have air tools so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands to remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire.

Using a pry bar or a large flat blade screwdriver, just insert it in between the axle and the axle housing and just hammer it to separate the axle. Now, remove this clip here, and ours is broken so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you just pry the clip open with the flat blade screwdriver. There's a rotating ring that holds the ball joint in. You want to use a punch and a hammer and you can see we do it before we release the upper control arm. You want to get that retaining ring out. Next, remove these two 10 millimeter bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Just pull the wheel knuckle forward and just make sure your axle pulls free and then support your wheel knuckle with wire ties or string just so that it's not being supported by those harnesses. We're just going to cut off this boot around the ball joint.

With this little tool, we'll be able to press on the hard part of the ball joint and we actually have the augment ours with another little attachment. Then this cup goes around the outside of the ball joint there. Put the press on here. Now, the press will be pushing around the edge of the ball joint and down into the cup and the cup is holding. It's not hitting the ball joint. It's holding around the steering knuckle. It's very important that you line everything up straight. Go nice and slow. You can see the ball joint has been pushed down and out.

Take your new ball joint and push it up into place. Push that up in. You need a sleeve to go up on top and this can just contact right against the bottom of your ball joint. We use the press to push the ball joint up and in and sometimes it helps to just use a hammer. You put a lot of pressure on with the press then use the hammer to get the ball joint, and seed it all the way in. If your old ring is still in good condition, just hit it back into place. Otherwise, use snap ring pliers and put the new snap ring into place.

Push the wheel knuckle back and then just push your upper control arm down on to the ball joint and hammer it down the rest of the way and just slide that bolt through. Replace the nut and make sure you remove your wire ties or string. Push the axle back into place. We'll fast forward as Mike tightens this up. Torque this to 50 foot-pounds. Twist the grease fitting into place and tighten it up with a 10 millimeter wrench. If you have a grease gun, just top it off. Then, just put the bolts back into place and re-clip your harness. Our clip is broken so we're just going to use a wire tie and then just tighten up those two 10 millimeter bolts.

Replace your wheel and replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle, tighten the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Once you have them torqued, replace you cap then you should be all set.

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