Kit Includes: (1) Passenger Side G-Coated Performance Brake Rotor (1) Driver Side G-Coated Performance Brake Rotor
Overall Height: 48 mm 1.89 in
Mounting Bolt Hole Diameter: 13 mm 0.51 in
Discard Thickness: 0.31 in 8 mm
Solid Or Vented Type Rotor: Solid
Brake Rotor Venting Type: Solid
Quantity: 2 Piece
Material: Cast Iron
Center Hole Diameter: 2.40 in 61 mm
Mounting Bolt Hole Circle Diameter: 3.94 in 100 mm
Rust Resistant Coating: Yes
Conventional Or Drum-In-Hat Type Rotor: Conventional
ABS Tone Ring Included: No
Brake Rotor Coating: Premium G-Coated
Surface Type: Slotted X Drilled
Outside Diameter: 9.37 in 238 mm
Stud/Lug Hole Quantity: 4
Nominal Thickness: 0.39 in 10 mm
Grade Type: Performance
Races Included: No
Product Line: Performance
Specification
Side Location
Driver & Passenger Side
Location
Rear
Brake Rotor Venting TypeSolid
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Front Brakes 1994-2005 Honda Civic
Created on:
Tools used
12mm Socket
Large C-Clamp
Torque Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Anti-Seize Grease
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Brake Pads and Rotor
Remove the two Phillips screws from the rotor
Unbolt the two 12mm caliper bolts from the caliper bracket
Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
Pull the caliper aside
Remove the brake pads
Unbolt the 17mm bolts from the caliper bracket
Remove the caliper bracket
Remove the rotor
3. Installing the New Brake Pads and Rotor
Clean the rotor with brake parts cleaner
Mount your new rotor onto the hub
Apply a dab of anti-seize grease to the Phillips screws
Tighten the Phillips screws to the rotor
Clean the brake pad slides with a wire brush
Mount the caliper bracket onto the rotor
Apply grease to the brake pad tabs
Use a large C-clamp and the old pad to push the pistons back
Put the caliper on
Apply grease to the caliper bolts
Thread bolts by hand
Torque the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper bolts to 74 foot-pounds
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
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Hi, I'm Jeremy from 1AAuto. I'm going to help you fix your car today, and the next time you need parts for your car think of 1AAuto.com. Thank you.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2003 Honda Civic. It's pretty much the same for a 2001-2005 Honda Civic. The tools that you'll need for this job include a jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and breaker bar, 12mm wrench, 17mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, large c-clamp, wire brush, some anti-seize, and a torque wrench.
The first step is to break the lug nuts loose, and you do that by leaving the car on the ground so that the wheel doesn't spin when you lift up on it. Here we go. Now we're going to raise the car up and take the wheel off. Now we're going to pull it off.
The next step is to pull these two screws out of the rotor. Normally they're stuck in there really tight, so I try to use a screwdriver first, and then go on to more drastic measures if need be. These are actually coming out.
The next step is to remove these two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can use a ratchet or the style wrench. One trick is to connect the two wrenches together, and then bump them with your fist so you can pull them out. The next thing I like to do is pull the caliper really hard toward me so that it compresses the piston inside the caliper. It makes the caliper loose, making it easier to remove. Remove the caliper.
Now we can take the brake pads out. These ones are in pretty good shape, so we'll probably end up putting these right back in. Then you're going to take off the caliper bracket, which, once again, you can use the same method of linking the wrenches together to break it loose. Now the caliper bracket is off.
Now that we have the caliper bracket off, we can take off the rotor, as you can see.
For reinstall, place the rotor back on the hub. Apply a little anti-seize to the Phillips screws, and put them back in the rotor. Clean up the brake pad slides to make sure that they're not going to make the brake pad bind up and cause uneven brake pad wear. Now we have the caliper bracket that needs to go back on.
Then we can put the bracket right back on after it's nice and clean. We are now ready to put the brake pads in. Normally, they're brand new and you can just slide them in, where this one is used. I'm probably going to put a little anti-seize on this as well. It does exactly what it is called, and it prevents the brake pads from sticking in the slides. You can see the squeaker right here. This is the thing that makes all the noise whenever you need new brake pads. That goes right here on the inside. You're going to need to compress this caliper. The best way to do that is actually with a giant C-clamp. As you can see, as you tighten the C-clamp, it pushes the piston in. Pretty awesome, right? Now it's completely compressed and you can pull the C-clamp out.
Like I said before, put the caliper on. Here's the caliper bolts. Once again, anti-seize. If you live in a dry climate, these things won't be rusty, but in New England, they're always rusty. Voila, your brakes are back together again.
It's now time to put the tire back on. Slide the wheel into place and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Lower the vehicle to the ground. The last step is to torque the wheels. I usually a hundred foot-pounds on pretty much all the wheels that I tighten. Basically, grab your torque wrench, always do it in a cross pattern so that the wheel goes on straight. Now the pedal's pumped and the brakes feel good again.
Hopefully this video has helped you out. You can visit us at 1AAuto.com for replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
BRA74654
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