How to Replace Head Gaskets 2000-09 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hi, I'm Mike the 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Hi everyone. So here at 1A Auto and we're gonna pull the engine on this '08 Subaru to show you how to do head gaskets. You can do them in the car, but we're gonna pull the engine so that you can get a better visual and understanding locations of all items. Need any parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.

Raise and support your vehicle with jack and jack stands or two pulse lifts. We're gonna drain the radiator. I'm gonna loosen the radiator dream petcock. Yeah, yeah. Once that's draining, I'm just gonna pull the clips.

Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil, and don't forget, if you do head gaskets in the vehicle or out of the vehicle, you always have to do an oil change after.

Now I'm gonna spray all the exhaust studs and nuts that need to come down from the cross member pipe so they'll be loose enough. It's a knuckle breaker.

Remove the battery hold-down. Now remove the battery terminals and remove the battery.

Now you can remove your air box. Remove the drive belt shield. Loosen the hose clamps and remove the upper radiator hose.

Remove the battery cable from the alternator, and I like the nut back off so I don't lose it. Remove the alternator bolt. Remove the alternator. You might need a pry bar to help you out.

Taking the power steering pump bracket assembly out because I'm not going to drink the power steering system, so I want to take the whole bracket out with the pump. Set it aside.

Now I'm going to loosen the AC tensioner belt pulley so I can remove the AC belt. Now I'm going to remove the AC bracket from the engine block.

So what I like to do when I pull an engine, I start in one section and I work myself around. So I took the battery out first, just for a hundred percent protection. I knew that I'm not going to use an AC machine on the AC, so I'm not going to recycle a freon, so I left it intact, put my compressor up over here. And the same with the power steering, I didn't want to make a mess, so on Subarus it's, it's pretty easy, just leave the pump and the hoses connected, put it up over there.

So now I disconnected my fuel lines, my brake booster line, I've got the starter over here, a couple of heater hoses. I'm still draining the coolant, so I won't do the heater hoses, but I'm gonna work my way over there and in work that way, or basically then we'll lift the vehicle up and I'll work them down below.

So this is the return line to the gas tank, so you have your fuel feed and fuel return line, set those up there.

So on this side you'll find a lot of your, your imports that will have a one main harness so that you don't have to undo the whole vehicle. You just unplug the main harness here, that's a push down on that, pull that great tab down, and the whole Highness comes disconnected. But we're stuck on this, so I'm going to take this tab out, take this bracket out so I can get the harness moved. So this harness stays with the engine, and that stays in the vehicle.

Disconnect the O2 sensors, because it's gonna be, the O2 sensor is going to be staying in the front pipe, so that's going to come down from below. So I'm going to disconnect the O2 sensors up here now, so that when the vehicle's lift it up, I don't have to struggle with it.

Remove the bell housing bolts from the top of the block, and then we're going to remove the lower section once we raise the vehicle. I believe the positive wire right on that starter and just back the starter up, leave the cable attached. Remove the heater hose.

Remove the front exhaust cross pipe fasteners, then we can remove the cross pipe. Some more about nothing washer, one on both sides, there's a watch it, 14mm. And I'll take all the bell housing bolts out, the starter bolt on the bottom out, and access the torque converter nuts, and then pull the engine.

Just so you know, these studs down here will be the only real headache you'll ever have on these. I'm pretty sure in general a Subaru, that's the only nightmare.

Once you have trained all the coolant from the radiator and engine block, now you can reinstall the radiator drain plug. We can loosen up the lower hose clamps and remove the lower hose.

I have to take the throttle body off to access the torque converter, a little port there's a rubber boot there, so we can take the torque converter nuts off the transmission torque converter. So I've got four ten millimeter socket size bolts. So there's the plastic boot, and now I'm going to turn the crank and exits access the torque converter mounting bolts.

So the crank bolt you need to know is a 22mm socket, and there it was, it's a bolt. So you have to put pressure on the crank while you go the opposite way. With the You don't recommend turning that crank counterclockwise too much because it takes your timing belt, can skip a tooth. So there we go, in this case I take this bolt completely out, I don't spin around.

So I have to take the AC compressor off because the AC bracket, here's the hook for lifting the engine. So easy thing is, now that the bracket's out, I can get the compressor out a lot easier. Anyways, there's three 12mm socket mounting bolts on that bracket.

So I'm gonna take the coolant fans out. It should take all of 10 minutes if that. I'd rather be rather have it out now then lifting the engine up and say, oh, those need to come out. So that's how you get rid of the overflow tank.

Okay, one more and we'll just disconnect the electrical part of the fans and pull them out. It's down below here, just like everything. Clip this ones, pull up on the clip, pull it up.

Maybe... yo, ya, the hook is in the back, is a round bracket, slot for put a chain through. Now we're good. We'll get this set up. I'm gonna get the engine hoist. Don't forget, you need to put a jack under the transmission.

Just need to jack it up enough so that that clears because you've got the two studs in the bottom of the transmission. There we go. Now the motor mounts are clear of the frame. Let's make sure my I was steering pump's out of the way. Yeah, and those bolts all clear.

What we're gonna do is get a pry bar, go between the housing, pry it free. Cannot forget your torque bolts that I already took out. There's a reason for that. If you drag the torque converter out, you can break the pump seal on the transmission side.

I think I'm going to jack the transmission jack up a little bit more. You know, that takes the pressure off that bell housing, and then you have it. I see the stud, these are the two studs I was talking about down below. That's the other reason for the floor jack. You get a bring the transmission up so that the motor mount bolts clear the crossmember.

I'm going to take the hood prop, rack it off, it's no big deal. Two millimeter socket. Let's turn it. Now you can take a second look on the back here, engine, confirm there's no hoses, no cables, no wires, all ready to go. Make sure your oil pan clears the radiator. You just let her out.

So this is the transmission, torque converter, and said automatic transmission. If it was a standard, they would just be a clutch pack and a flywheel. The difference is that you you don't have anything to unbolt. These are the torque converter mounting bolts to the flywheel, so you want to make sure it stayed seated, it didn't pop out.

It's a, what they call, a sun gear in the center. That sun gear goes through several stages, so you spin your torque converter and push at the same time. And if it had slid out just a smidge, you want to make sure it seats all the way back, you know, so put your fingers back here and you'll feel the roundness against the aluminum housing. This did not move. It's either right, what should be.

So now the engine's on the stand. I've got a coolant bucket down there because I keep tipping it, getting some of the coolant left out of the water pump and the block. It's just draining. I'm gonna start, have to remove the intake.

So let's start by removing plug wires. I like to leave them attached to the coil, so it's no big deal, probably going to end up replacing them anyways. I think that coil is a 10mm socket. Now you can get to the connector and disconnect it, push it on down that tab, squeezing that connector out. Yeah, so this is your ignition coil, this only has three mounting bolts with the plug wires on it.

Someone has mocked, no, I don't know what these markings mean, because they sure don't mean one two three four, because they're all like ones, and it doesn't matter. The schematic goes right there, there's your your one three to four.

Take the end timing cover off, ten millimeter socket, just three of them total, slide it out.

I'm gonna take this bracket back off, the AC bracket, it's a fourteen millimeter socket, and that way I get the pulley out of the way and the harmonic balancer, and put the timing belt on top dead center.

Even pressure just pulling it off, there's just a keyway, that's, it's not pressed on. I'm gonna need the crank bolt, so I'm gonna put that back in, the harmonic balancer aside.

I'm just gonna take the cover off now, ten millimeter socket on all the bolts going around. Now that the cover's off, I put the crank bolt back in the crank and I can turn it, it's right at top dead center.

Subaru's nice in the sense that they have everything marked, and this is marked with white paint, there's a white mark there, there. So I'm gonna bring this crank around and line those two up, and then once that's lined up I'm going to check my marks over here.

They have a cutout in the back cover, the white paint, and then there's a slot for the white, and then over here there's a notch in the screen to the right side, cramp cam, and that's gonna line up just with this street X in the locked in the head. Now we're all set, everything seems to be good.

So the other thing about we're looking for on this cam sprocket is the manufacturer puts an arrow here, and that's pointed right here to the edge, usually there's a marking, that knotch. You get a schematic for the printout of a timing belt, it'll show you the arrows, and then the same here.

Now the timing belt all lined up, I'm gonna take the timing belt tensioner off, it's a 14mm socket, and just undo the bolts, mounting bolt. There's a large washer in the back, it might fall out, and that's fine.

It is so now I can set that aside. No see, it came with a nice little o-ring, holds that washer on. We're gonna end up having to put this in a vise when it comes time to reinstalling, and you can use a small drill bit, or if you have some of the leftover pins that I usually have a bunch of those.

So now I'm just gonna take that belt off, as you can see it's new so we're going to reuse it. If you have not replaced your belt, now is the time to do it, even if it looks okay to you, and you but you don't have any records of when it was changed, change it.

So now we're going to take each cam sprocket off, and I use a strap wrench, belt strap wrench, you can use a cam sprocket tool if you have one. It's not heavily torqued, the bolt is a 17mm, actually I probably use an air gun, you might have to, yeah, I'll line that back up before I remove it, make sure you line that back up, I'm gonna be able to do that's right on there.

The cams are clearly marked, this says L and the other one had an R on it, so the driver's side is the left side of the engine and the R would be the passenger side.

So now I'm going to just start connect/disconnect electrical connectors that I know I'm not coming out, here's the crank sensor, so I'm gonna just connect that, push down on the tab. This is a do believe the oil pressure, go P switch, all it could be is that coolant temp, it's only a single prong though, I'm just gonna push up on that. Here's the temp, this is a coolant, so that is the oil pressure and that's the cool. It looks like we have a purge valve here, you just connect these. Grounds, those are 12mm, I put those right back where they came from.

So now I'm gonna undo the emission tube, is a 22mm wrench, and wish me luck, it's been soaking for a couple of days now, I might have to get some sort of, take it down here also. Seriously, I did not loosen that up, that was pretty, pretty cool, I lucked out on that. A check for blockage, looks pretty good, probably end up blowing some shop air through there lightly, making sure it's not clogged, I don't think it will be.

So now I'm going to disconnect the connector at the EGR valve, and then take the harness off of the mounting. I'm just gonna use a pair of needle nosed, you can use a body trim tool, I'm trying to keep the connector, I mean the plastic connectors, I like to reuse them. No, I'm gonna see if I can get a body tool in, they looks like PCV hose.

And we have two bowls back here, the hose is connected, looks like at 12mm socket. So now I can disconnect my knock sensor connector, pull on that tab.

So now I'm going to disconnect the bolt that goes to this bracket, because this harness is going to go with the whole upper intake. I say upper, like this, more than one, I'm so used to working on the American cars that have upper lower end eggs. There it is, so two bolts attach that bracket, same size.

So now I know, I could just put those in the place so I'm not losing my mind later. I get three connectors over here, there is one bolt here that holds these two connectors on for the O2 sensors, but I'm going to undo the actual intake, so when I lift that up and move it aside I can really get to that bolt a lot easier.

Now we're going to disconnect the intake to the cylinder head or block. So there is for mounting intake screws on each side, to in the back here and two in the front, 12mm socket. I'm just gonna slide these out, they all should be the same length.

When I come over to this side, I see that there's more connectors I need to undo in the front, so I've got cam sensor, another solenoid. Okay, all those should all lift up with the intake.

I'm gonna undo the same two bolts on the front, and then two in the back, for total. So now I can move my intake up, like I said, this bracket right here. But now with the intake dismounted I have a better chance of getting in there with my extension and socket.

Because the heads are going out, I'm not gonna put the bolt back in there. Come through so you can see the harness comes right out. The whole upper harness comes out with the intake. It's bolted down below the fuel lines from each injector assembly, or underneath, and the injectors, everything stays put.

So here is the intake gasket for the right side bank, and if you look closely, see the rust on that? That didn't just happen. That has been a part in sucking air into the intake, so this car probably had a good hesitation and a surging idle, which means the idle probably everyone smiled, did a little search for it. all depends on the temperature.

So now that with the intake off, you can really, really see a boxer engine, or what it means. The crank is located in the center like all of them, but instead of having a v-shaped design to the block and the head sitting up here, everything is sitting parallel to each other. So your pistons are connected to your crank, and everything is going straight out this way instead of any v-shape.

While you're here, I strongly recommend you take this coolant jacket off, clean it up, and re-gasket it. You can almost see just a smidge, it looks like they could have been some coolant coming out at some point. 10mm socket is only for these, mounting this coolant tube to the block. Just lift that blocker. So there's the coolant jacket from cylinder head to ceiling, I mean block-to-block. O-rings definitely crush, they're probably original.

I'm gonna use my engine stand for what it's for, and I'm going to actually tilt the engine so that I can work on it a little easier. I have a catch basin for any excessive coolant, and I have a catch pan for oil. Okay, we're gonna leave that right there.

Now we can really get to this cylinder head. I've got a ten millimeter socket, I'm gonna take the valve cover off first. Some of these bolts, are heads on them look pretty corroded. Pray that there's a right side bank valve cover. I like to put the valve car bolts with the belt ever, and I'll set that aside until it comes time to clean it.

I'm gonna peel off the old valve cover gasket. I've got two spark plug chamber seals, I gotta pull those out. Take this bracket off for the machine shop so they don't have to deal with it.

Take the old exhaust gas get off, throw things at yourself. I gotta take the little bolt here, it's ten millimeter head socket, because the cylinder head starts right here. So when I pull the bolts and the head bolts and pull that cylinder out, that's going to be holding it there.

So now we're at the six head bolts on this side, and manufacturer has in the schematic, they call it a, b, c, d, e, f, that's the order they want you to take it out. And you're gonna leave a and c in a half way in, so when you take a rubber mallet to the block, the head disconnect it from the block, it doesn't fall down on the ground.

So we're gonna start off with, it's a fourteen millimeter 12 point socket, you have to have a 12 point socket. So now that I've loosened it up, that's a, and I can take the airgun to it.

Once the head bolts are loosened, this is silent, the B last one. And the reason why they, manufacturers, all manufacturers, have some certain pattern to disconnect head bolts and to tighten head bolts, the sequence is to prevent warpage. So you can't just go willy-nilly and just start ripping the head bolts out, they want you to do it in a certain sequence to release the pressure.

Now I can probably get electric on there, there we go. So the head automatically fell, separated, that's perfect, so I don't have to take a rubber mallet to it. A and C, you're still in there. So, so I'm going to take the rest of them off.

You know what, now we're going to tip it up so I don't have to worry about it falling off. Now with the head at this angle I can take these head bolts completely out and the pins will hold it in place.

Now, I can take now with the cylinder head off, this is where you want to examine the head gasket to see if there was any damage. Once again, we're doing this just because we have this engine available to us and 1A Auto makes a head gasket set, so we're gonna do this to show you guys how to do it. This had no running condition and it had no coolant leak, but right now if this was a bad song hood, which these are notorious for leaking, most of the time they leak externally, and but we have no no problems with this. But you would look for tears, separations right in here, a lot of times they ripped.

Always keep the head gasket, the old one, before you install the new one. Match it up, confirm that all your holes for the drainage oil and coolant are correct.

So to prep my head before I bring it to the machine shop, I'm just going to pull the spark plugs out and make sure I include the valve seals, seats. So I'm gonna look at the head before I take it to the machine shop and confirm with the head gaskets. At I don't see any cracks, the valves look nice and clean, everything's pretty clean in here. They're gonna machine it, they'll play in it, check for warpage and leak test it for internal cracks.

Now I'm gonna take off the left-side head. I'm gonna start with taking this back of the timing belt cover off, ten millimeter socket. This cover is all cracked and missing the ears, so I've got a replacement for it already.

Just dipstick tube is mounted to the head, so ten millimeter socket, loosen that right up, pull that right out.

I'm just gonna tilt my engine again so I could take the valve cover and take the head off, and that is why I have that catch pan. Don't take the valve cover off. Ten millimeter socket.

So now I'm going to remove the cylinder head bolts on this side, same sequence, A, B, C, D, E, and then F, leaving A and see partially thread it in so the head doesn't fall down. Okay, nope, there it is.

Now I'm going to tilt the engine back up so I can remove that head. Grab the head firmly and lift off those pins. Examine the head gasket again before I take this one off.

Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.

Here we have the original head set that came out of the Subaru engine. We got head bolts, head gaskets, intake exhaust gasket, valve cover gaskets, and here's the complete set that we got at 1A Auto. Comes with new head gaskets, new exhaust, new intake, new valve cover, head bolts, valve seals, timing cover gasket, which is a big on Subarus, those always fall apart or expand from oil. It has the foam pieces for the back of the timing cover to the block and cam seals and a whole bunch of miscellaneous seals. These are the cross member coolant tube seals. It's a nice complete set. If you need these parts or any other parts of your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.

Once I clean the surface from any loose oil and grit, I take my sanding block and I like to go at an angle. Now this will assure me I got a flat surface, and I'm just going to do get the rest of the grease and markings up, make a nice smooth surface my new head gasket.

Now my heads were sent out to a machine shop, which I strongly recommend you do. I thought they looked fine visually, I couldn't find anything, but I always send them out anyways, and they were for thousands off, so they were warped, and they check the valve seats for you, and I had one cracked valve seat and they fix that. So these are all things that if you don't bring it to a machine shop and have it done professionally, you know, this is worse for the way you're doing all this for nothing, so it's worth spending the extra money.

Right, so though I'm gonna have a nice clean surface on the head when it's time for assembly. Emery cloth off then I give it a quick like what's it, and I'll just take a shop cloth, soak it with some brake clean or parts clean, and I gently clean the surface. It takes all the material off that's left behind from the sanding, and I'll take some shop bare just to get any particles out prior to installing my head.

From the machine shop, I'm gonna put a new cam seal in. I didn't give it to the machine shop, if you have them you can give them to the machine shop, they'll install them, but I wanted to show you how I take them out. I just take my smallest flat-head screwdriver and I pry it out both sides.

It's now that seal is out. Take a clean rag and I take the screwdriver and I just give it a swirl around in there, make sure there's no oils on the outside. And I'll take some silicone paste or grease, clean new grease, Vaseline, a lot of people use different things, and I'll just coat the inside of that seal, just with a cam. Is gonna shaft is going to sit not this, not this edge, and that way when I slide it on move smooth, doesn't dry. If it's dry and it catches that spring, the spring in the back here, if that's pops off and you don't, you do not know that it's inside, the seal is gonna pour up. So you can push it in evenly with your fingers, let's eat. And then I'll just take like a socket or a brass punch, on this case it's pretty good size socket, if I can find a socket that's hollow enough, and I can press that right in.

So I'll place a socket right over here, and I'm just gonna use a rubber deadblow hammer. I'm just guaranteeing it's eating flush all the way around. Now you want it to sit in there deeper, but I've got it started perfectly all the way around. Now I'll take my fine punch and even it out.

If you noticed when I was spinning this around, I'm spinning it with an angle more out so that the edge is just riding on the outer edge. I'm not pushing in on the inner part of that seal, and it's a light tap. You can even use your hand if you're you're strong enough, you can push it in all the way around, paying attention that the pressure is on that outer edge.

So now we're gonna put the new head gasket on, line it up with the guide pins, push over the washers, they're nuts, it's nice and flush.

Flush before I mount that head on there, I'm just gonna take a cloth, give it a quick swipe, make sure there's nothing, no burrs. I'm sure the machine shop made sure of all of it, but there we go. Alright, so we're gonna go place it right on there.

I'm gonna line up the head bolt holes, try not to slide the head on the new gasket, you don't want it to slide it all around. I'm gonna raise the engine just to sure that when I walk away it doesn't pull off. Okay, looks good.

Now, before you install the head bolts, you dip the threads of the head bolts in clean oil, just submerge them like that. So now I'm just going to hand tighten them in the sequence the manufacturer recommends. A is the center top, I'm just bottoming out like that. B's the bottom center, once again this is a twelve point fourteen millimeter socket or an actual specialty socket for Subaru. See is the top left, you see the cross pattern I'm gonna be making here. D is the bottom right. E is the rear bottom. And then F is the last, top right, top front.

First step is to torque them to twenty nine point five foot-pounds in sequence. I've lowered the engine so that I can get better leverage, because I'm just a little old thing will make my life a little easier, it's work smarter not harder.

So now we moved up to seventy point one foot-pounds, and we're going to tighten in the sequence of A B C D E F, which we've marked for you.

Now the next step is to loosen all the bolts in reverse order, 180 degrees, so that is half of a full circle. So I'm here, I'm going to end up over here. So we're going to start at F and work our way back to it, and you hear that squeaky, that means I need to add more oil to that bolt. So as soon as I'm done taking them all 180, just loosening sequence, I'll probably take that bolt and add some oil to that porthole and let it run down.

You know it says to do the same in another hundred and eighty, they just wanted it at one level than the next level, so you can't do 360, 360 all at once because they don't want the head to get warped, that's the best way I can explain that.

So let's go ahead, do another hundred and eighty. What this is doing is it crushed the gasket, and now we're loosening up to reseed it. So I'm gonna take that bolt completely out, should be safe, it's completely loose. Add some more oil, basically just until I feel it touch, because that's pretty much where it was after that sequence of loosen it perfectly.

So after I've loosen them all in those stages, now we're going to tighten again, alphabetical order, at seven point four foot-pounds, now it's twenty two point one foot-pounds.

Now it's forty four point three foot-pounds in alphabetical order. The next step is all bolts in alphabetical order, a 90 degree angle. My torque wrench, electric, my electrical digital one here has an angle head on it, so it beeps when I reach 90. I've pre-programmed it for 90, so now I've move it up to the big guns because I have to turn it another 45 degrees which is a half of 90 degrees. So I want to, I don't want to really break my back on this, so it's a non ratchet. So if here two parallel is 90, I need to be there half of 90. In alphabetical order, last step is to tighten A and B and additional 45 degrees, and then we are done.

Now that your head on the side is all done torqued down, just repeat procedure on the other side.

I'm gonna put the, do I put the cameras on the cam sprocket, sorry, I have to put the cover on to the back of the timing cover. Now I got this one at the dealer because the old one had broken ears on the actual back of the timing cover, so that doesn't seal in, water can get into the timing belt which is a no-go, so I got the cover from the dealer.

Now it doesn't come with the dealer cover, does not come with this new seal, this rubber seal, or these rubber bushings, or the cam sensor foam pad, but the good news is the head gasket kit from 1A Auto comes with all these gaskets. So all the way to do is pick up the cover from the dealer, and now I can install, I installed the gaskets from the kit, now I can put this cover together.

So now I'm going to install the bolts, ten millimeter socket, and just hand tighten them down, line up the key wait with the key slot gambled on.

So now I'm going to put the sprocket on the left bank, marked you can see the L for the left-side sprocket, and the torque spec is 57.5 foot-pounds. That's a 17mm socket. I'm using a strap wrench to hold the actual sprocket in place. Now I'm going to make sure that the cam mark is lined up to the proper spot.

Now it's time to put the right bank sprocket on, lining up the key ways and put the bolt on. Now we're gonna do the right side, and it's the same torque as the left side cam sprocket, 57.5 foot-pounds. I'm going to line that up with the marking right there on that head.

I'm gonna end up replacing the front crank seal, so I'm taking the bolt out that turns the crank. I'm still not lined up perfectly on my center for my crank pulley, so I'm gonna take the bolt out of the way and I'm gonna take the gear shaft off. I just take a pry bar or a flat screwdriver and gently push, you'll see it come off the key way, it comes right off, and now I can pull the seal out and replace it.

I take a nice small flat-head screwdriver, they go on the inner side and push the seal out, not the outer edge. If you damage the aluminum housing here, you could have a leak. That's how easy that is.

And like always, before I install a seal I like to just take a clean rag, I take the flathead screwdriver, gently just make sure there's no dirt, oils. Clean that up in there, now it's ready to install the new seal.

I put a little clean grease, silicone paste, Vaseline, just line the inside of the seal so that you can glide it on like that. Good thing about these, pressure of your thumb can pretty much center them. Now I can tap it on the rest of the way.

Use a nice clean small brass punch on the outer edge. They do make tools for this, you could probably build one, a little piece of PVC and a bolt and use the crank bolt to pull it in, and you can do it old-school like I'm doing here.

Always take your index finger, or finger that you trust, a feeling the make sure it's sitting flush all the way around. You'll feel the lip raised up like right there. I feel a little, ready isn't over there, perfect.

No, no, I'm gonna get some of this stuff off, you know exactly what that was. Now I can install the sprocket.

So I'm gonna line that keyway up with the bullets right directly down at six o'clock, put my crank bolt back on, because when I install the timing belt I might need to turn that. And I'm gonna clean the head surfaces for the front exhaust pipe. There's gonna repeat the process on the other head.

At this point I'm gonna install my exhaust manifold studs. I took them out for the machine shop, and so it'll be easier to clean, and I also wanted to replace them. These are the ones that came out, they're pretty worn down and rusted up. Look at all the rust on this stud, missing threads. For the price it's well worth it, and I got six total, three for both sides, and they also got the locking nuts, the new ones.

Here we have a stud removal tool or installation tool, it has three rollers in there, and they, as you put in your bolt or stud to lock it in and you twist it, the rollers will lock into place. So it does minimal damage to the threads, it rounds them just a little bit, but they, you never need to retype, they always seem to clean themselves up with a regular bolt that we put on.

So you hand tighten all your items, and if you have this tool, or if you want to go purchase one, snug them right down, and then you verse it, comes right off. I'll show you on the other side how to use two of the old.

Lock nuts possibly, let's see if it goes on. So you can put one down like that, and then take the other old one, thread it on, combine the two. So I'm gonna hold the bottom one with a 14, tighten the top, just gonna tighten them so that now I can lower down. This stud will go right into place. Now to take them off, you just reverse procedure, put the stubby one down, they'll hold it, and I can take the top wrench and break them up. Obviously, be careful, don't drop anything in there. You don't trust yourself, you know, just put packing tape over the holes. Then you would just repeat procedure to every stud to tighten it down.

This is the coolant tube, the crossover coolant tube that goes from cylinder head to cylinder head. This is a pretty prominent part that leaks on these cars, so obviously we took it off to do the head jump without job in the head gasket. So prior to installation, I'm gonna clean it all up, and you can see, look at the corrosion on the the threads of the bolts, that tells me that probably seeped coolant up in there for a while. A lot of this white stuff, it's just small as coolant leaks, like coming out and just steaming and getting stuck on the aluminum.

So we have to clean these up good, clean all the threads on these bolts, clean the surface on both sides. And I forget how it mounts, this is how it went, so there's a crossover coolant on the side of the block to that side of the block, and it's just a rings, and through the years they get crushed, and the head gasket set from 1A Auto comes with new gaskets.

I like to take a wire wheel, that way I can also see if it's pitted, if you have a wire wheel or wire brush, take advantage of that. Clean all that corrosion off with a hose. Sit, you know, pretty good, I'm gonna do the bolts.

So now I'm going to take the o-ring out, it's pretty hardened in there. Good, it's petrified actually, yeah, this has been leaking, just probably sleeping it up just enough. How this all stiff, that is, that's how old it is.

So that surface is gonna get cleaned. So what I'm gonna use is a brass brush, not paulien fusing, this little pocket screwdriver. I'll spray some parts cleaner in there, see if I can get it down to it, good surface before I reinstall the new o-ring.

So this is why you do all the gaskets when they're feasible. So I just took a little break, clean parts cleaner, and I sprayed the rag to soak it in there. I just want to get any loose particles, pick that up.

Here's the new gasket, as you can see it's supposed to be round, not flat, and you just see them right in there. Now we're ready to place that down and put the bolts in. I'm just gonna bottom them out with my speed ratchet, doing a cross pattern. The torque specs on this crossover, they call a water tube, is five foot-pounds.

I'm gonna use my parts washer to clean up the valve covers.

So now we're gonna put the e valve cover gasket up, line it up the way it seems like it's it's gonna be when installing the valve cover gasket on this Subaru. Both left side or right side bank gaskets are identical, there's no, you can't mix them up. They're pretty self-explanatory, there is some pretty obvious moldings the way it's curved.

I like to start at the bottom because sometimes the rubber is longer, it seems longer than what you need, so you have to like press the rubber gasket in. If you run across this, don't get frustrated and think you have the wrong gasket, and I just kind of push it towards the center. I like to see that curve, it's kind of milled a little bit different, but if you put it in there and once it settles down, pushes down, everything else does line up. So once those little ribs on the rubber get caught inside the valve cover grooves, you're good to go.

Okay, well that's all pushed down. When it comes time to install the valve cover, don't forget your spark plug chamber seals, put those back on, that'll make a mess you don't.

Now there's no extra RTV gasket sealant needed, necessary. There's no breaks in the aluminum block, so there's no creases. I'll just wipe it down one last time to make sure there's no oil or grease.

You know We're just gonna place the valve cover right on. You've got six bolts, those are the bolts with the shank sleeve, and there is a sequence to tightening. The torque is 4.7 foot-pounds, in a sequence of A, B, so A is a top, B, C, D, E, F is up in the top quarter here.

So I'm gonna get my torque wrench, set it to 4.7 foot-pounds, and do that sequence all over again. I'm just gonna move it around now that I can get a ratchet on there to feel its seating. Probably all right, so let's do the one last time. They say to do the center to A and B again. Double-checked it, I always go in the sequence completely around again. You repeat the process on the other side.

I'm gonna clean the intake surface before we put it up there with the new gaskets. I like to use my sanding block, again some Emery cloth or fourth for 400 grit sandpaper. Once again I use a sanding block because it's a flat surface and this is aluminum, you don't want any grooves, you don't want it to be warped. I'm not planing off three thousandth of an inch here, I'm just getting the gasket surface clean. Some people use their cookies, those air whizzers, you can't do, you really shouldn't do that, you'll end up damaging the aluminum. Nice smooth finish, I'll take the blow gun to that, blow any powder and dust out. And while it's out I'm going to take the throttle body plate, give that a quick sanding.

Now to install the intake gaskets, there are mounting pins, one here and one there, you can see him on the on the head. So I'll just push that one down in first, get that one, everything lines up good, don't put pressure down right there. The bolt holes line up and the ports are completely covered with the gasket, so that's good. Move this one, line up the mounting bolt pins, there you go.

Now we can lift up the intake, bring it on up here. Okay so the, you know, for some of it in because of the all the accessories are still around here, like this hose, just bracket I left attached, so I just had to get that out of the way. That's perfect, ya know everything lines up.

Now don't forget this bolt over here that I took off after I unbolt of the intake, so I'm gonna push that in, take a side, reattach this bolt, this bracket, and it's a 12mm socket. I'm just going to tighten that right down, it is an actual stop so it can't, it's only has one place to sit, so that's kind of perfect for me. As I tighten it down I'm gonna stop and make sure I line up that bracket, just snug it, perfect.

I line my intake back up there, install the tools to Center ones first, just starting with my fingers and move over there to that Center, you know, gives you more freedom to make sure they seat properly. So there is no sequence other than, I personally am going to say, you do the center and then out, and the torque is eighteen point four foot-pounds. I'm gonna use my speed wrench and I'm just going to snug them down, all of them, they bottom out, you go to the other side, do the same. Make sure that I don't feel I'm dragging, getting too tight, that would mean I need to loosen this sign up and Center everything again.

All right, I get my torque wrench set up. Okay, eighteen point for the center bolts out, I'm gonna go over to the other center.

You can hear the, I can hear a little creaking and snapping, the intake settling and onto some. When I disassembled this, I found the intake gasket had a tear in it, so I'm pretty anxious to feel this puppy run.

Okay, so now we start all over again. See that? So I went torquing, always, always do it twice before I continue.

Now that the intake is installed, I want to take a moment and connect all my electrical connectors so there's no forgetfulness and I get into the car, try to crank it and the engine light comes on, it doesn't start. So everything that I have connected to that I can connect before it's installed, I'm going to.

This bracket, I'm not going to bolt it up. Say no, actually I can. I thought it was in the way of the torque converter bolts, but it's not. It's got the cutout for the window, so perfect. Hold on, mount this up, tighten that down. Okay, that's a 12mm socket, there's no torque for this, it's just tighten it down.

Here I have a coolant temp sensor right here, snap that in. Purge valve, this is a cool piece which, which I have a new one so I'm not going to connect that.

I'm gonna move over to this side of the head is the cam sensor. I've got grounds here, before we install the harness grounds, I'm gonna clean up the money, get, we have any oxidization that happens with aluminum, just age sitting. I just want to make sure my grounds are good. It's not uncommon to see that as a running condition problem on some of these import engines.

I'll clean up the connectors, just making it sure there's no dirt. That's a 12mm and a bottom amount, then I'm gonna torque these to 14 foot-pounds.

Now we're gonna install our emission pipe, that's the EGR tube. Pay attention to the depth, you've got a shorter length here, a longer length, this is inboard, so the longer length is going to go up top there. You might have to flex this, it is a tube that they like to spring load for some reason. Definitely do it by hand, make sure it threads and seats by hand, this is not something you want to strip.

It's a 22mm wrench, I'm gonna tighten up that emission pipe. I'm just gonna smug it, and I'm gonna move down to share the side. Snug, perfect.

Now we're gonna remount the coil to the intake using the three bolts that have a ten millimeter socket head, reinstall the spark plugs and the wires and route them.

Let's install the dipstick tube. The head gasket kit from 1A comes with new O-rings, and it's a dual O-ring, so now you put the first one on. I'm gonna slide it over to the next chamber, I'm gonna put a little clean oil on there and slide it down into the tube.

So when you put the oil dipstick tube down behind the timing cover, there's as a coolant tube. Make sure you're closest to the timing cover of that tube so that when it goes down, it'll actually line up better. Now we can got it into that tube, force it down in. Should be sealed in there. I can put the mounting bolt on, that's just a little 6 mil, 6mm bolt with a 10mm socket head. It snug it up like that, perfect.

This is the timing belt hydraulic tensioner, so we have to push the hydraulic piston down. And you have a hole in the head of the piston, the arm, and the hole here and hole in the back. So I'm gonna use a drill bit that fits and put it all the way through into the back to hold it in place while we install it.

So I'm going to decompress it in a vise, just turn it a little bit at a time and let the hydraulics do its work. Don't force it. If you have not replaced the hydraulic tensioner, I strongly recommend it, as you can see ours is new. I'm just going small increments, you can feel the hydraulic oil pressure drop.

All right, install my drill bit. Before I install the timing belt, this pulley has to come off, it's the last pulley to go on. Once the belt is, belt is routed, then we put this on and pull the pin on the hydraulic tensioner.

So we'll take this one off, and we're gonna install the hydraulic tensioner one that we already compressed the hydraulic pin. The torque specs on this bolt is twenty eight point eight foot-pounds, it's a 14mm socket. Let's torque that down. Even with it torqued, we'll have the freedom of the movement.

Now with your new timing belt, those markings on it, you have one white line there, you have another line here, and then you have several lines right here, these are actual arrow heads. So I'm going to spin this around, so we want the arrow heads to go in the direction of the belt when it's running. This is going to be marked up with your point on your crank mark, so we're gonna install that right there, line that up. Bring the belt down under the hydraulic pulley. I look, boy, now both of these should line up. Put the marks on the cams sprockets.

As they do, don't bring this around. Oh, with that idler, now we're gonna install it. Only grooved idler, could get a little challenging. It's not uncommon, sometimes what I will end up doing when I do tiny, they'll see the slap I have here, it's pretty tense, taut shall I say, over here this one has a little bit of play.

So I'll get myself a 17mm, I'm gonna use a wrench, and I'll show you why. With a wrench I don't want to ratchet, because I don't want it to be able to spin. I don't want the cam be able to snap or spin. So I'm gonna pull up on that, find that, I'm gonna skip a tooth full-width, see how the tension is. It just skip a tooth forward with the belt off of it. Try to hold it right there, I think that's right in between the spring load. See, that's one tooth off, so we'll do it again, there we go.

I like in mind, they grooves up, and there, slide it over the idler. I'm gonna use a pry bar, and I'm just going to put a little tension on the hydraulic tensioner from underneath, staying clear of the belt in any other pulley. And we're gonna put a 17mm wrench on the cam so it doesn't snap or move. I don't want to miss line the timing belt. Now I can guide the belt onto the bottom pulley.

Now it's time to install the last idler pulley. So I take the bolt out, put it up against the belt, and I can lift it, thread this right in. All my marks still lined up, nothing's moved, and the torque on that is the same, it's 28.8 foot-pounds. That's a 14mm socket. I'm gonna double check all my torque on all my pulleys.

Now with a pair of locking pliers, I'm gonna grasp onto my drill bit and pull it out. Now that hydraulic tension, it's got the proper tension on this belt.

One last step before you put your cover on, you always want to take socket and ratchet in hand, turn everything around and make sure everything feels good, no belt slippage. I can hit the compression line, my the belt is not gonna line up, but I will line my marks up again and confirm that everything is right where it's supposed to be.

So now, Subaru cover, they're pretty notorious for these gaskets falling out, they swell with oil. The kit we got from 1A Auto comes with all new gaskets for the cover, so that's kind of a sweet deal. Ok, install my new gaskets, and it's important that you put these on, know that they're still on, because you don't want water getting up inside this timing belt area, sand and dirt from the road.

Now with all the new gaskets on, I'm gonna install the outside timing belt cover. Make sure that all flush.

Just not gonna put all your bolts all the way around, cover on the bottom here. There's one bolt that is just a regular bolt, it doesn't have the extended sleeve like the rest of them, that goes in right there, so you'll see it. I'm just going to snug them off.

Now we're gonna install the left bank cover, and it's got some grooves that line up right in. Install the A/C bracket, we reposition it. It's got the three mounting bolts, at a fourteen millimeter socket. Place it in spot, bolt in, then what up front, okay, now I can really tighten it.

Now it's time to put the crank on, so I've got to snap the harmonic balancer bolt out from me spinning it for the timing belt, so it's 22mm socket. I want to give it a quick snap, I don't know, I prefer not to have the engine turn backwards, so if you have an electric gun or an air gun it's best to snap it free. Line the key way up there, we put the bolt, make sure the threads are good, no burrs. You can get a new one or you can use the old one.

The first stage in torquing the crank bolt is 33 foot-pounds. I'm using a belt strap to see if I can hold the crank, okay, double check, yep, and the second stage is a hundred and thirty-three foot-pounds. they have it.

We're gonna mount the bracket that went on the side of the right side of the head, we took it off of the machine shop. It connects the wiring harness in the front, the O2 sensor harness, and it also connects the body ground strap that goes right here. He's a 10mm sockets, I'm just going to get to the socket and tighten that down.

You're hooking up the chain, it's time to take it off the engine stand. So the challenge here is going to be making sure you line up these two bottom studs with that transmission, that's the hardest part of this. Checking to see how much further, again, it's a good thing, Subaru engine is pretty lightweight.

So I do have a jack, don't forget, under the transmission, so I'm gonna try to line this up, I might jack it up just a hair, okay, and I'm happy with that. See if I can that one, anyway, you know, jack it up just a smidge, it looks real good.

So now I'm going to lower the transmission with the floor jack and lower my crane at the same time.

All right, so the tension is off the engine. Let's see if the motor mount fell into place. Needs to be, it needs to go back probably about maybe a half of an inch to eighth of an inch back for those motor mounts to fall in.

So I'm going to bolt up my housing transmission to the engine. Get on my bolt, started standing by hand. As you can see over there, I get more of a gap than I do over here, so once I put the bolts in, I might just fall into place while I'm tightening up.

I think I'm going to tighten some of these top bolts, nothing too crazy. I'm not gonna use an air gun, I'm gonna use it by hand. See Viking, bottom knees out.

Now that the engine's all lined up with the transmission, the motor mounts are just a smidge off from the slots, so I'm just gonna go underneath and tap them and they'll fall into the crossmember bolt holes. There we go.

Make sure that plate lines up. I gotta get a primer. I pull it back. Now just gonna lift to support the engine enough so I can spin this plate. Now we're in place. Hold that and lower this down at the motor mount nut, song both sides.

Now I can put the bolts on the transmission studs, the nut, sorry. So you get a flat washer and then the nut. Let's put those on all the other bolts that I stash it by. Hop on top, look good.

So now I'm just going to get my air gun and tighten up the transmission housing bolts to the engine block.

Now I'm gonna line up the starter, reinstall the bolts, making sure that that ground wire is attached to the top bolt bracket.

Now we're gonna line up the torque converter bolts, mounting bolts. So I've got the flexplate in view, and you have to put a 22mm on the crank, turn your crank clockwise. So I've got the mounting bolt hole on the flexplate view, but I don't know if the torque converter bolt hole is lined up, so I'm gonna spin that by hand.

I'm gonna get a mirror and use a mirror at the same time, that I think will help. Now with a mirror there, put my finger and inside, and turn the actual talking route of transmission torque converter until I see thread bolts. Once you get one in and you're pretty much all set, perfect.

They have to tighten up by hand. I'm just going to bottom it out. I'm not going to torque it yet. I'm going to put all of them in, all four, and then go around and torque it to 18.4 foot-pounds at some in effect respects.

Number two, yeah, be real careful here because you do not want to drop one of these bolts. There's two types of torque converter mounting methods. Some people use studs and you put the nuts on, and some people use the bolts. The bolts are nicer because then you don't have to line up the studs to the torque over to the actual flex plate while you're trying to line the engine up to the transmission, and you could do damage to your torque converter pump, transmission pump, if you do not line them up properly.

I want to show you something pretty neat about Subarus. So the main harness down here is bolted right here, and another one over here with a 12mm socket head bolt. You take these out, you can get to the torque converter nuts and bolts with the extension right through the middle of the front here of the intake. So if you're a guy with big hands and you're like, I can't get my hand in, I'll show you a quick way. It would be easier talking it, also, because then I'll have more throw with the torque torque wrench.

Now you can go away through the front here, so lift the harness upward and you get right out of the way, and you can bottom these bolts out, and you can turn it to the next one. Gonna put your mark down, set your socket ratchet on reverse. Did you go? Hold the engine, eighteen point four foot-pounds. You know, notate this so you get to the next one. Now for safety precautions, they're gonna check all of them again. Go one more time around.

So now you can reinstall the excess rubber plug boot to the transmission, it snaps right down in there. I'm going to remount the bolts for the wiring harness. So I put the throttle body back in, I've got the gasket all lined up with the bolts on, the after the throttle body, pull this harness up. That's why I started by hand, you know, what that gasket falling down and get pinched. That's a ten millimeter. Circuit torque specs for the throttle body is six foot-pounds. I do it a crisscross pattern, so I'm gonna go from here and work my way around and start stumbling all the stuff on those side of the body.

So over here I have the coolant hose that goes to the throttle body, I have the connector, and the other, make sure you put the clamps on. Then I have the main harness here, pop the harness retaining clip up, so you line up the ears on this style, pops right in, then you pull down on this handle, locks down, then you can crimp this. Perfect.

Now I have a power steering pump, you get three bolts for the power steering pump. The long one is gonna go in this bracket.

Don't forget to plug in the power steering switch, and we'll tighten that bracket down. It's 12mm socket, nice snug, don't know. I'm gonna torque these tests 18 foot-pounds.

Now I line up my AC compressor, so I'm gonna undo the bracket like I had to begin with to take the AC bracket out, because the bolts are hidden down, mounting bolts right here. So it saves a lot of time. I'll undo the bracket, take it out, mount it, then install it again. This bracket is where the engine crane attaches, so it has to be installed. That's why it keeps coming in and out. It's a 14mm socket. I don't want that to fall into the radiator, so get up there.

So first thing when to just put these in, line up the two bottom bolts, I could put this bracket on. Okay, I could put the top bracket on. Now I can stop the bottle on. Perfect, I have all the mounting bolts in place for this AC bracket. 14mm, tighten it all down. I'm going to torque all these mounting bolts to 23 foot-pounds.

Now I'm going to hook up the fuel lines, the fuel return line and the fuel supply line. This is a fuel return, if your apply is, and put that on right away. They've put this connector on here at click. Now there is a lock pin for that, it's the plastic guide, so that goes like this, snaps into place.

Work my way over here, came out of the bracket. Now I should have that goes to the airbox, but there's gonna be two coolant hoses down here, attach those, make sure you just bottomed them out. This is your brake booster vacuum line, make sure that's seated all the way in.

So now we're going to put the airbox in, see this has an amount, this part over here, it's gonna be a bit of a bugger. Yep, so this has, they died for these two hoses to go right there. We're gonna make sure that throttle body hose, this connected, this mine goes there.

Got a mounting bolt right here, another mounting bolt over here. There is a another breather hose on the bottom coming out of the valve cover, go into the air box. Yeah, it's a thumb clamp, make sure you squeeze it, put that clamp on.

I mean, make sure you connect your mass airflow sensor, it snaps into place. Eight millimeter socket or flathead screwdriver, make sure that's tight. Then we have two minor screws which are ten millimeter socket.

You have the coolant fan, it's got the four blades and it's located on the driver's side of the radiator. So you got the pins or two marks right there that you're going to hook up into the down below there on those brackets. You know, two mounting screws up here, they're just a little six millimeter bolts with a ten millimeter head on, get those started.

Now make sure you connect your electrical connector for the fan, mm located down here in the corner, just trying to line it up with my one hand, squeeze it together. Down below here you have these plastic guides for the transmission cooler lines, they want you to put those right inside there so they don't get hit by anything.

Now we're going to install the AC fan with the two little pins, we got a mic, line them up with the mounting bracket down below, slide them right down in. Then you got to get the mounting bolts, they're six millimeter bolts with a ten millimeter head first socket. Then you're going to hook up the electrical connector which is located down here in the corner, there you go, snap it in till clicks.

Put the upper hose on, radiator hose. Okay, I'm just snugging it with this. Do not rank on them with an electric or air, go just get it down.

To install the alternator, you line up this back bolt to that bracket, and as you can see it's really tight going down. That's because all alternators have this spacer that is movable, but once it's tightened a lot of people don't realize it moves. It's a floating bracket in there.

So a way to do that, to loosen that up, just put it on a hard surface, you get a vise or something, and I like to use a brass punch. You Bryant laying it up and hit it with a hammer. There you go, see how it's seated down. You can see the difference over here, came out. Son now, when we go to put that in, I'm not struggling with it, falls right into place.

The long bolt, in the bolt on that is designed to have a bracket on it so it lines right up, so the nut won't spin because it has a those ears on it that line it up. Just going to put my hand back there, make sure it starts, and guide it in. So now I can carefully mount my adjustable adjustable bolts. I'm not tightening this, I just want to get it snug.

Now we have the long adjustable bolt, so that'll go, you can't go this way, obviously it doesn't line up. Spin it around, it goes on the ear of the alpha new. Threads right in there. Both these mounting bolts our 12mm socket. Just gonna snug this, bottom it out. I'm not going to tighten it because I'm gonna have to make adjustments once I put the belt on.

So this alternator has what you call a belt guard. See how this, two washes here, you have the big thick one that mounts against the alternator, and that thin one, I like to put it right in between there. There we go, and that mounts, are there. I'm not going to completely mount that because I have to see the belt, just snugging it up. Perfect.

So you want to make sure that the year AC tensioner is adjusted enough so that you can get the belt over the AC pulley. Say, now harmonic balancer around the AC, and there's the AC pulley.

Now you're going to reverse the direction, and you're gonna bring that long bolt down on that idler pulley for your AC belt, or tensioner pulley. Make sure that all the ribs are lined up. You don't forget that once you tighten that pulley, the mounting bolt for that pulley, that's gonna make it tight also.

So what I'm doing is, them well, I'm adjusting this, I'm spinning the belt side to side, I'm feeling the tension, and I like it right there. I don't want it too tight, it'll burn out the bearings. So now I take a 12mm socket and I'm going to tighten up the mounting bolt.

Install the alternator belt, go down over the harmonic balancer, power steering pump, and then over the alternator pulley. I'm gonna have to loosen up on the alternator a little bit more. Pretty much it, there we go, now I can adjust this adjuster. Check your belt.

Okay, I'm gonna leave it right there and I'm gonna snag up the adjuster bolt mounting bracket. Now I can bring this bracket down and tighten up. Now you can mount the bolt on the power steering bracket, and then we have this cover that goes here and there, but first we're gonna bring the electrical over.

I think I'm gonna bring this right, that's right through here, this is a connector here for the, just clamp thing goes around this oil pressure, oil field, there you go, like that. Connect the AC compressor, this mounting bracket goes there. Now we can plug in the internal regulator on the alternator, and we have the alternator not already available to us because I left it right there, I'm not fishing for it, that's why I like to do things like that.

And that mounts right there, it's a twelve millimeter socket. Well, make sure you hold on to that harness and just snug it, if you just rank on it that's a copper bolt, it'll snap off inside the oven here.

Now we can put that cover on. I've got a long bolt in a short bolt. Longboat will go up here in the bracket because it goes down the mounts into the, that belt guide. This is a ten millimeter socket.

Now I'm going to put in the overflow tank, so you've got this, paint on that is gonna mount up to that little your mounting, maybe you, so this is how you mount this. This slides into this bracket, and that is going to be the mounting pin on this side, so you slide this in and then push it down, you're not supposed to snap in there, do you have to get the old manipulation tool here.

Plays, make sure you connect it to the radio. Let's mount our breather air box inside, there we go. So this pushpins, I get these rubber bushings, I like to stick with the pins, but you need to take them off the pins and mount them in here first, and that's both. Perfect. Now we're gonna push the push pins in.

I'm gonna mount the lower radiator hose, put on the radiator first, make sure that see it all the way down and they don't knocked it on the thermostat housing, there we go, let's put the clamp on.

Okay, I'm gonna prime the oil filter before I install it, especially where this engine has been completely drained, was out, it was on a stand. I'll let that sit for a little bit and we'll prime it some more.

Now that my oil filter is primed, take a bit of clean oil, put it on this gasket, and I'm gonna mount it up in there. Doing this before I'm out the front pipe exhaust because it'll be easier for me. Just like it down by hand.

Okay, I'm gonna line up the studs on the down pipe first so that I can make sure that goes down. There we go, now it's got to slide right up. Put a mounting that on. I'm just going to flex the flex pipe enough so that I could get the stud stick. I know, okay.

I can put the lock nuts on the stud to the heads. These are all 14mm socket, even these down ones. I'm just gonna smug these up, and then I'm going to use, tighten it by hand. So just using a 3/8 drive 14mm deep socket. Yes, none of these bolts down, reason I don't use air is because these studs go right into an aluminum head and I don't want to take that chance.

So now these have got two sensors, the connectors I get connected up on the top, so I'm gonna fish them up there and then connect them in because you can't reach the connector so down here. And the front pipe is a 17mm.

Here we have our upstream Oh to censor and downstream O2 sensor connectors, and it connect them. This is really a fuel ratio sensor, upstream connects right there. Here is the downstream O2 sensor.

Let's install the battery. So now I'm going to clean the terminal ends. This is a battery brush, you can see how it works to clean the cable end. You take the cover off of you battery tool and put it on the handle, and now you have the inside brush. Just clean in a connection.

Slide that down, that's gonna be a 10mm socket. Put the cover on right away. See how you have a long L bracket and a short L bracket. A long one goes in the front and these short one goes in the mounting back. You see that mount hole right there.

I like to use a deep 10mm socket. Clean the negative terminal and make sure that's all the way down on the terminal, on the post. Ten millimeter socket or ratchet.

Now let's add the oil. This takes four and a half quarts of oil, 5w30, it's a manufacturer weight it recommends. So you can top off your fluid, fill up the radiator.

So now I've checked all my fluids. I filled my oil, I filled my coolant, my batteries connected. Now I'm ready to start my engine, but because it's a disassembled I want to pull the fuel injection pump relay or the EFI fuse because I want to crank this over and get the pressure up before it actually starts up.

So I'm going to pull, find the location of the EFI fuse or the fuel pump relay, whichever one I can find. OK, fuel pump 15 amp fuse. So I go like this, it would be the bottom one right here. Here's my fuse board, I'm going to pull it. There we go. I don't want to lose it, so I'm going to place it right there, just cover that in case, and I'm going to crank my engine over.

Now I'm going to replace my fuel pump fuse, put the cover back on and crank it over. Now we're gonna let the vehicle get to temp, check all the fluids while it's running, and if there are no leaks, everything's good. Then it's time to put the splash shields back up and go for a road test.

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