2010 Cadillac CTS V6 3.6L 12 Piece Ignition Kit DIY Solutions IGN01279

Okay. What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the spark plugs in this 2013 Cadillac SRX. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description, head over to 1AAuto.com.

When doing this job, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery. The battery is located under here. You want to push down on these little lock tabs. There's two on this side and two on the other side and you can lift this up. Just slide this out of the way. Now, the negative terminals on this side. We're going to use a 10mm wrench to loosen this up. Wiggle it and set it aside. I can either leave that hung over like that or just leave that on the side like that.

There's a screw right here. I'm going to use a T30 socket, extension, and a ratchet. Take that screw up. Pull that out. I'm going to take this oil fill cap off. Set that aside. Grab this cover and just pull it up. So I don't drop anything down into the oil, just put the cap back on. There's a bolt right here. I'm going to use a 10mm socket and a electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric one, you can use a regular ratchet. Oops, that's tightening. I want to loosen it. That's good. The bolt's going to stay. It's a caged bolt, so we'll leave that there.

Next thing, we I'm going to just slide this off right here, this hose, set that aside. I want to loosen up this one clamp right here. I can use a straight blade screwdriver or an 8mm socket, extension, and ratchet. Loosen this up here. Then there's another clamp right here. I'm going to do the same. With that loose I can just grab the snorkel right here. Then on the back side, pull it up. There's a little grommet on the backside here and just pull up on that just like that. Slide this whole snorkel out.

We'll disconnect this connector right here is a little lock. Pull that lock and then push down on the tab. Disconnect that connector. Then, there's a little retainer right here. Just slide that out of the way. On the map sensor, we're going to do the same. Push down. Disconnect the connector. I'm going to disconnect this hose. This hose goes to the evap purge valve, so just push down on this lock. Well, you're actually pushing up. Slide the hose out. It's a little bit tricky. Disconnect that and slide that out of the way. Just put that over there.

In the back of the purge valve, there's a connector. There is a little lock tab on the connector. You're going to pull that lock tab out. This little red thing here. I'm trying to see if this one is broken. Yep. This one has a piece that's broken. You can normally take a right angle pick. Get in here. You should be able to pull this lock tab back and then you push down on the button, disconnect the connector.

You need to remove this bolt right here. It's attached to a bracket that is attached to the power steering hose in the back here. Just use a 10mm socket and a ratchet. Remove that. Pull that out, just set that aside. All right, there's a hose right here that needs to be disconnected. I'm going to disconnect this on the valve cover. There's a little tab you slide over and then you slide it up. I'll show you what that tab looks like. Right here, you're just going to push on that tab and that will slide up. You don't necessarily have to take this off, you could just leave it connected to the intake, but this is how that tab works. You're just pushing that little lock and slide it up. To get this off, you just twist it to the side and lift it up, but you don't have to take that off.

All right, now I want to remove this vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. I'm going to use some hose clamp pliers to squeeze this clamp. You could use some needle nose pliers, right angle needle nose pliers would be better. You can use these. Just slide that right there. Squeeze that. Move that to the side. I'm just going to use a right angle pick to get underneath the hose, loosen it up and wiggle the hose. There we go pull that off.

We need to remove this wire right here. There's some retainers. I'm just going to use a trim tool, pop this routine or off over here. Get that out. Right here. Right here. Then also this cover, I'm going to take this cover off. Just take this little push pin off, just like that.

I'm going to take this bolt out right here. I'm just going to use a 10mm socket, extension, and a electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet. Pull this off, just move it out of my way. I don't necessarily have to take this off, but I needed it out of the way for that, so I'll just pull it off completely. Or not. There we go. Slide that out of the way.

Remove these two bolts. I'm going to use a 10mm socket and a ratchet. Pull those out. Keep in mind which one goes where. The longer one goes on this side, the shorter one goes over here. You could disconnect this coolant hose. We're going to try to not. I'd rather not have to disconnect it cause you could lose a little bit of coolant and have to top it off afterwards. We'll just push that over there. Then we're going to take these six intake bolts out. I'm just going to use a 13mm socket, extension, and a ratchet.

Double check. Make sure those are all loose. You can slide them out if you want, you can leave them in. Probably easier to just slide them out. These should be all the same size. Let me double check. Yup. They're all the same size. Now I can grab the intake, slide it up, slide it underneath this hose, just like that. Now if you had trouble sliding it out from there, disconnect that coolant hose, but just easier to leave it connected.

Now, I'm going to remove this gasket. Just slide it up. Just try not to drop any of the dirt in there. We're just going to cover this up with some rags. We don't want anything dropping in there. You can put the rags in like that if you prefer. You can just cover the whole thing up just so if you drop a bolt, it won't go in there.

Whether you're doing spark plugs or coils, you needed to remove that intake plenum to access the back coils and plugs. We did that first before we proceeded with this job.

Disconnect the connector right here. I want to use a right angle pick. Pull out that lock a little bit and then push down on the tab. Slide the connector out me. I'm going to us a 10mm socket and ratchet. Remove this bolt. Slide that bolt out. Grab the coil. You can just wiggle it to the side a little bit and pull it up.

Before I remove the spark plug, what I want to do is take some compressed air, just blow it down there, get any of the dirt out of there. Now if there's oil in that valley, then a lot of times the head itself is porous and it causes this spark plug tube to leak and these tubes are not replaceable, so you might have a problem there. Also, check the valve cover seal right here. If oil gets down in there from that, so that could cause a misfire, so keep that in mind.

Now I'm going to pull the spark plug out. You want to use the spark plug socket. This one actually has a magnet. Now we sell this socket at dot com this is a 5/8 in with a magnet on it and an extension. Use a ratchet and loosen it up. You want to use a hand ratchet when you do this, you don't want to use an electric ratchet. It's just better to do it by hand. Pull the plug out.

Here's the old part. Here's the new spark plug from 1AAuto.com. If you compare them, they're the same, same length. The important thing is to make sure the threads are the same length. You don't want to put the wrong threads in. Same AC Delco part number. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

These spark plugs come pre-gapped, so you do not have to get them. Take the spark plug, we'll install it in our spark plug socket with the magnet. A lot of times he won't have a magnet there, you'll just have a rubber grommet that'll hold it in place. Slide this back down the tube. Just snug it up by hand. Now I'm going to take a torque wrench and I'm going to torque the spark plug to 13 foot pounds.

Before I install the coil, I can just take a little dielectric grease, make sure it's the appropriate type of dielectric grease made for ignition systems. Then we install the coil. Slide it in position. Get the screw started. Push it down. Tighten down the screw. Then with a 10mm socket and a torque wrench, I'm going to tighten this down to 89 inch pounds. Make sure you're on inch pounds, not foot pounds. Then I can plug this in, lock it in place. Then I'm going to do the same procedure for the other ones.

You can take these rags off there. Just take some rags and just clean off any of the gasket area. You don't want any dirt in that area. You can use a little brake parts cleaner if it's really dirty, this isn't too bad. What I like to do is just take some compressed air. Just makes sure you can look down in the valleys and see if there's anything in there, but I just spray it out just to make sure.

Take the new gasket. There is some pins on the back side of the gasket. It should line up and these cone like things come straight up, so that looks good. Now on the backside of the plenum, just take a rag and wipe some of this oil away. Now if you were chasing a intake leak, if you had a vacuum leak that you were trying to find, you may also need to replace the gaskets under here. You just take these bolts out right there. Take that off place those gaskets. But a lot of times it's the lower gasket.

Just take the intake, just slide these wires out of your way. I'm just going to raise up on this coolant hose. If you struggle with it, just take it off. It's lined up that. You can check underneath to make sure everything's lined up down below. It looks good. Take the intake bolts, get these all started. Now, I'm just going to take a 13mm socket, extension, and a electric ratchet. You can use just a regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one. I'm just going to snug these all up and then I'm going to torque them after.

Now I'm gonna use the torque wrench with a 13mm socket. I have to torque these down in a specific order to 18 foot pounds. That's number one. This is number two. Number three is right here. Number four over here. Number five and number six. Now once I do that, I have to go back through one more time and just double check them in the same order. It's good.

All right, I'm going to put this insulation back in position. Sometimes this is a little tricky to get on. All right. The reason for this insulation is actually because the high pressure pump is very noisy, so that covers up the noise or helps cover up some of the noise and the tapping sound. Kind of sounds like a lifter, but it's really just the high pressure pump. There we go. Put the bolts back in there. Take the push pin. Slide the push pin back in. Then I'll snug up that bolt. I'm just gonna use a 10mm socket, extension, and a electric ratchet. Snug it up. Reattach this wiring harness. It's going to get pushed through right here, and right here, and this back one, this little retainer right there. Push that on. We'll take this wire connector, connect the map sensor, lock it in place. Now I'm going to hook this up before I hook up with that brake booster. Just push this down, give it a twist, and then reattach it to the back valve cover. Lock it in place. Just move the wire out of the way. That's good.

Now we can secure the brake booster vacuum hose right there. Now I'll use these hose clamp pliers. You can use needle nose. Reposition that, makes sure that's on secure. Now this bracket for the power steering line, we'll just take this little bolt, get this started right there, tighten this down. We'll just take a 10mm wrench and just snug it up. Not too tight. Here's the connector for the evap purge solenoid right there, the solenoid down, lock that in place. Lock the connector down.

We can take this hose. This is going to connect to it right there. Just like that. Make sure that gets locked down. Give it a pull, make sure it's good, and lock this down right here. That's good. This connector is going to go to the throttle body. Slide that in position, lock it down, and then this retainer goes right here over that hose. Take this longer bolt. It's going to go right here for the coolant hose and the shorter one's going right here. If you disconnected that hose right there, reconnect it. Just make sure you top off your coolant afterwards if any drained out. Just use a 10mm socket and a ratchet. Tighten these down.

Now I'll take the snorkel. I'm just going to align this up over here. Line it up on the throttle body and then onto the air box. That's good. Before I tighten that down, there's a little grommet in the back here. Just push down on that and start to tighten this bolt right here. Push that right there. That just kind of hangs out like that. Take my 10mm socket, extension, and ratchet. Tighten this bolt down.

Take a straight blade screwdriver. I'm going to tighten down these worm clamps. You can use this or you can use an 8mm socket to tighten them down and a ratchet. We just want to snug it down, not too tight, just so it doesn't move. That's good. Then same on the inside near the throttle body. Just tighten that one down as well. That's good. Make sure it doesn't move.

I'm just going to take the oil cap off. We can take this cover, slide it back in position. When it's lined up, you can just push it down. Push down right there and then in the back. That's good. Put the oil cap back on. Take this screw. The screw is going to go right there. Just take a T30 socket, extension, and a ratchet and we'll tighten it down. Reconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Tighten it up with a 10mm wrench. Just snug, not too tight. Just give it a wiggle. Make sure it's good. That's good. WE can take this cover, slide it back in position. Lock it down.

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