Kit Includes: (1) Front Passenger Side Sway Bar Link (1) Front Driver Side Sway Bar Link
Specification
Side Location
Driver & Passenger Side
Location
Front
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Sway Bar Link 1998-2002 Mercury Grand Marquis
Created on:
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
5mm Hex Wrench
21mm Socket
Chisel
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Retrieve the center nut key from the glove box
Remove the center nut with key
Pry off the wheel cover
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel cover bracket
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Apply penetrating oil to the stabilizer link bolts
Loosen the 15mm bolt on the top of the stabilizer link
Loosen the 18mm bolt on the bottom of the stabilizer link
Put a 5mm Allen wrench into the lower stabilizer link bolt
Hold the Allen wrench as you remove the lower bolt
Remove the 15mm bolt from the top of the stabilizer link
Drive the top of the stabilizer link out of the steering knuckle with a hammer and chisel
Pull off the stabilizer link
3. Installing the New Stabilizer Link
Install the grease fittings into the new stabilizer link
Push the bottom of the stabilizer link into place
Raise the lower control arm with a jack
Push the upper stabilizer bar stud into the steering knuckle
Thread the 15mm nut onto the top stabilizer bar stud
Tighten the 15mm nut to 50 - 55 foot-pounds
Thread the 18mm nut onto the lower stabilizer bar stud
Tighten the 18mm nut to 65 - 70 foot-pounds
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Put the wheel cover bracket into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Put the wheel cover on
Insert the center nut into the wheel cover with the key
Reattach the center cap
Return the center nut key to the glove box
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to replace a front stabilizer bar link on this 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis, pretty much the same process for a '98 to 2011 Grand Marquis or Ford Crown Victoria. We do the passenger side. Obviously the driver side is the same procedure. We do recommend that you replace these in pairs. Tools you'll need are Jack and Jack Stands, your tire iron or 21mm Socket with a breaker bar, basically what you need to get the wheel and tire off, 15mm and 18mm wrenches and a 5mm Allen wrench.
Start out by removing the wheel cover. You pry off the center cap then there should be a key somewhere in your car, in the glove compartment. Remove the center nut and then pry the wheel cover off. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Then, raise and support the vehicle. We'll loosen them. I'm going to fast forward here as I just remove those lug nuts. Set aside that bracket that holds the hub cap and take the wheel and tire off.
The stabilizer bar is held on, right there, with the bolt. I'll put some penetrating oil on it. There's another bolt down here. On top is a 15mm. I like to put the wrench on there and take another wrench, hook it right in. It's a little tight to get a socket and ratchet on there. We're actually on there with this method. It gives you more leverage. Nice and slow. The bolt should come loose pretty easily. This bolt in here is an 18mm. Do kind of the same thing. Get the wrench on it. Put my 17mm wrench on and pull. Nice and easy. It starts to move. I'm going to look at the stud and see if it's moving. It's starting to move. I'm going to come up through this hole with the 5mm Allen wrench. Put that in there. I'm going to speed up here as I just keep working that wrench with the Allen wrench holding it. It will get difficult to hold that Allen wrench so I'm just giving a shot underneath. I stick a wrench on there to hold the Allen wrench, to give you some more leverage. Just keep fast forwarding here as, like I said, I just work that bolt right off. We'll keep the high speed action going, here, as we go back up to the top and remove that bolt the rest of the way. I go back to using the wrench for some extra leverage as that bolt gets a little more difficult to remove as it gets farther off the stud. I just want to take . I'm using a chisel, and some type of impact tool to drive the top out. It's coming through so far. I'm just using a smaller extension here, to get it the rest of the way out.
The new link from 1A Auto is much easier to use. It has a nut here that you can grab on to with the wrench. This makes it a lot easier to put in. You may want to put in a grease fitting here and a grease fitting down here. Those come with it. Just use a small wrench to put them in. They're already installed. This one points up and away so that's easy to get grease in there.
Here, I basically take the bolts off first, and then, you want to get the bottom in first. What you might need to do is just grab hold of the stud on the bottom and position it so you can get it into the stabilizer bar. Now, use a jack and jack up the lower control arm until you get into a position where you can work the upper stud into the top of the steering knuckle. You can remove your jack and put on the nut on the upper side and use your 15mm wrench to tighten it up and then grab on to a larger wrench, give yourself some extra leverage and get it nice and tight. You don't have to get it incredibly tight. It probably has specifications, around 50-55 ft-lbs but it's pretty hard to get it to work down there so just use a wrench and get it nice and tight. Do the same thing with the lower nut. I was pleasantly surprised on the 1A Auto part, the lock nut was able to go on and it didn't make the stud twist. I was able to get it on, tighten it up and these probably tighten to a spec of 65-70 ft-lbs. It's pretty tough to get any kind of a torque wrench on there. I just got it nice and tight with the wrenches that I had.
Put your wheel and tire back on. Start all the lug nuts with the little bracket for the wheel cover and just preliminary tighten them with the impact wrench or your socket and ratchet. With the wheel on the ground, use a torque wrench and tighten them to about a 100 ft-lbs using a star pattern then put your wheel cover back in place. Put the center safety bolt back in, tighten it up, make sure it's all on there good. Always make sure you put your key back in the glove compartment.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA55634
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.00/ 5.09
9 reviews
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Exact replacement
James
January 13, 2018
I was lubing the front end as part of my oil change maintenance and found the sway bar link on one side was broken. The sway bar links had been replaced during a front end rebuild several years ago, they had grease fittings and had to be lubed. These replacements from 1Aauto have no fittings to fool with (yeah!). The fit and function is perfect. The price is reasonable and shipping is fast. Thank you 1Aauto.
Fast shipping and easy!
H
May 13, 2018
Easy to order--- correct parts-- pretty good price and very easy website to order from!
Sway bar links
Marcus
August 31, 2018
Excellent purchase everything fit well will purchase again if needed
L
October 25, 2018
very good service the sway bars links was very good price from stores in my area.
I choose 1a auto for my online purchase
Wayne
June 10, 2019
The parts were great , plus the how-to videos
D
October 5, 2019
I have been 100% satisfied with every purchase except this one. The end was not machined right so it just spinned and wouldnt tighten. Customer support told me to call a mechanic. Took a while to get over that one. But still a customer.
links sway
Anthony
August 20, 2020
worked perfect oem
Awesome company
Cynthia
January 3, 2022
Very good products
The item works
Eugene
February 15, 2024
The items are working well since installed.
Customer Q&A
Hello I own a 99 lincoln town car and I have alot of play in my steering wheel.feels like I'm driving a boat. Is this possibly the sway bar? ThanksNovember 22, 2015
Mark D
10
Hello, Though we cannot diagnose, this may cause some excessive leaning but may also have a clunking noise when the body leans left or right (unless they are just broken). Other contributors of this boat ride may be worn shocks or weak springs. Please note there are rear anti sway bars end links on the rear also that may contribute to this driving issue. Check air pressures in the tires also!!
November 23, 2015
Brian F
10
Very doubtful the sway bar is your problem. More likely other components in the front end causing alot of slop in the steering. The sway bar will make the car "roll" more on hard turns, but not so much on a straight away.
November 23, 2015
Rick B
10
Doubtful. The swaybar and links keep your car level while cornering. Excessive play is more likely due to bad ball joints, bad tie rod, bad pitman and or idler arm, or a worn steering gear box. Any one of those items will cause sloppy steering.
November 23, 2015
Donald B
I have a 2001 Town Car. It always squeaks when I hit bumps and turn the wheel. Could this be an issue with the Sway Bar and Bushings?April 28, 2018
D0000 G
10
You might wanna check your ball joints. My 2000 marquis was doing the same until the ball joint gave out and wheel fell.
April 28, 2018
G A
10
Most likely cause of squeeking on bumps and turns would be ball joints
April 29, 2018
T H
10
possible could also be any of the bushings in front end or ball joints as well as tie rods or but a arm bushings would a place to look close at even shock absorber bushings but turning Is most likely to be tie rod ends or ball joints
April 29, 2018
T W
10
Not quite enough information to pinpoint the problem, but those symptoms could absolutely be caused by bad ends on the sway bar.
April 29, 2018
Larry C
10
If you look on the lower a-arm there is a spot where the stop hits the arm. Take a die grinder and smooth up the little spot where the stop hits. I have done a few of these and there will be a little ridge where it is worn . The squeak will be gone.
May 13, 2018
H A
10
It could be. also check ball joints
July 4, 2018
U S
Customer service
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Mercury is a registered trademark of Ford Motor Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Mercury or Ford Motor Company.See all trademarks.
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