Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (1) Pitman Arm (2) Front Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies (1) Idler Arm (2) Front Inner Tie Rods (1) Idler Arm Bracket Assembly
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
with 3 Groove Pitman Arm
Location
Front
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Bearing TypeTapered Roller Bearing
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Wheel Bearing Hub 1999-2006 Chevy Silverado 1500
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2000-06 Chevy Suburban
How To Replace Sway Bar Links 2001-14 GMC Sierra
How To Replace Inner Tie Rods 2001-10 GMC Sierra 2500 HD
How to Replace Tie Rods 2001-10 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Truck
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2000-06 Chevy Suburban
Created on:
Tools used
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
15mm Wrench
Large C-Clamp
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
T55 Torx Socket
5mm Hex Wrench
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
36mm Socket
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Caliper Bracket
Remove the T55 Torx bolts from the caliper
Use either a C-clamp to squeeze the caliper to push the caliper piston in
Remove the caliper
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
Use a piece of pipe and ratchet to remove two 18mm bolts from the caliper bracket
Slide the rotor off
3. Removing the Hub
Disconnect the ABS harness from the frame and steering spindle by removing the clips
Pry off the center hub cap using a flat blade screw driver and hammer
Remove the 36mm center hub nut with an impact wrench and air blow gun
Remove the three 15mm hub bolts with two 15mm wrenches
Twist the hub nut a quarter of the way
And hammer from the back of the hub
Remove the hub nut and pull the hub out
4. Installing the New Hub
Place the backing plate onto the hub
Push the hub back into place
Insert and tighten the 15mm hub bolts
Torque the 15mm hub bolts to 75 ft/lbs
Remove the clip and feed the ABS harness back into place
Replace the clips and brackets to the ABS harness
Replace center hub nut and washer
Tighten the center hub nut
5. Replacing the Caliper Bracket
Place the rotor on the hub
Twist a lug nut to hold the rotor in place
Put the caliper on
Replace and tighten the 18mm bolts
Torque the 18mm bolts to 75 ft/lbs
Install the new brake pads into the bracket, tapping lightly with a hammer
Grease the caliper bolts
Place the caliper onto the bracket
Replace and tighten the T55 Torx bolts
Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs
6. Reinstalling the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the 22mm bolts
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
Torque the center hub nut to a 125 ft/lbs
Reattach the center cap
7. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Reciprocating Saw
Hammer
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the hub cap by loosening the lug nuts
Remove the lug nuts and tire
2. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Using locking pliers to clip onto the top of the stabilizer link
Then remove 14mm bolt from bottom of the stabilizer link
Remove the stabilizer link with a hammer or reciprocating saw
3. Replacing the Stabilizer Link
Put the stabilizer piece back into place
Use four washers, four grommets, and a tube
Use a jack stand to help push it through till it appears through the top
Tighten the 14mm bolt on the stabilizer link
4. Replacing the Wheel
Put the tire in place
Replace and tighten each lug nut
Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 ft/lbs
Torque the center hub nut to 160 ft/lbs
Replace the hub cap and tighten the lug nut caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 and 2006. We show you on the passenger's side, but on the driver's side it's the same procedure. The items you need for this include a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, a 14mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, locking pliers, a hammer, and a reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle.
Remove your hubcap by loosening up these lug nut caps and pulling the hub cap. Now, you want to remove the lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to do this while the vehicle is on the ground. You can loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and pull the wheel out. Using locking pliers, clip on to the top of your stabilizer link, and then remove this 14mm bolt. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this.
Now, you want to just hammer the link through. If the link doesn't move, you may have to use a reciprocating saw and cut it. Up top is the old part; below is the new part from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. You want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole, then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube; then, before going through the next hole, another washer and grommet; then, on the top another grommet and another washer, then the nut.
Here, we just put the jack underneath the link. That's just to push it up through and compress the washers a little bit so that you can get the nut on the other end. Once I get another nut on, you'll see I just release the jack. You want to obviously be supporting the vehicle with jack stands, and then use your jack to push the bolt of the link up through. Then, you want to tighten up the sway bar link, and you basically want to tighten it up until the rubber bushings are compressed enough so that they're the same diameter as the washers.
Put the wheel back in place, then replace each of your lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap, and just tighten up those lug nut caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Diagnosis
The stabilizer link can break and the bushings can wear out.
A good way to tell if the problem is the stabilizer link is if there is a rattling that stops when you go around turns.
2. Remove the stabilizer link
Apply penetrating oil to the link.
Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to unbolt the stabilizer link.
Secure the upper part of the stabilizer link with an adjustable wrench to help get the traction needed to work the nut loose.
3. Install the new stabilizer link
Thread the new link into place
Put all your bushings and washers in place.
Make sure everything is snugged into their places in the stabilizer bar and the control arm
Use a jack to push the nut on to get it started.
Repeat the removal and installation process up to this point on the other side before tightening the stabilizer link nut up all the way.
If the old link is stuck or broken, you can use a Sawzall to cut it out.
Take great care to make sure you don’t damage any other parts if you do.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to replace the sway bar links in this 2002 GMC 2500HD, basically the same as most '88 to '06 GM pickups, SUVs, vans; also the same as a couple of Ford applications. Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands for some vehicles, 14 mm socket and ratchet or whatever is correct for your link, they could be different depending on application, an adjustable wrench, and some penetrating oil.
Your stabilizer link is right up underneath. This big bar here is your stabilizer bar, and then here is your control arm. It's connected by this, which is the stabilizer link right here. This can break. Also, these bushings, these rubber bushings can wear out, which will cause a rattling sometimes when you go over bumps. You have a good idea if it's the stabilizer link if, when you go around a turn, the rattling stops. I'm going to show you how to replace that.
On top, you're going to want to spray some penetrating fluid. This is a 14 mm bolt down here at the bottom. What you're going to want to do is put an adjustable wrench onto this side. This is an original link here, so the thing on top is kind of bolt-shaped. I've got that on there to hold it. Now I'm going to attempt to slowly unscrew it.
The bolt comes down, and that can come out. Then you can see, even though there's nothing too terribly wrong, you can see that this one is worn, right in here, so we'll replace it. On the original you can see this top nut has edges to it so you can get that wrench on there to hold it in place. We've gotten it out of there, but we still have this in place. Just pull that right out, like that. I'm going to take my new link and I'm going to put it up through. This bushing has the ridge up into the control arm. Then I'm going to take a bushing down and then a washer on top of that, then my spacer. Then I'm going to take a bushing and a washer, and now the step goes up into the sway bar. Then just push that.
In order to get this in, what I've done is this is a little jack. If you're doing this just on the ground, you can do the same thing. Put the jack in underneath the stabilizer bar here, lift it up, and create plenty of room to push that up through. Then you want to make sure these bushings all go right into the holes in the stabilizer bar, right there, and the control arm. This last bushing goes with the ridge down, then the washer on top. I'm going to put the jack right in underneath here, push this up in to get the nut on.
I've got this together and I've got the nut started on there. I'm going to replace the other side first before I tighten it up. I wouldn't take apart the other side here you can see, this is the one from the driver's side and this is the one from this side, so you can see this whole part was rough and it broke off. It's possible this link wasn't really doing anything anyways. This here that broke off of this one is stuck inside there. What I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to actually cut this link with my Sawzall. I'm going to do that very carefully, because I don't want to contact the boot or anything else. I don't want to contact the CVs. I just want to cut through the link itself.
Now with the car on the ground, you want to tighten up the links. I'm just using an air ratchet. You can hand tools, obviously. Tighten up both sides and you're done. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Bearing Grease
Torque Wrench
Paper Towels
Jack Stands
Floor Jack
Grease Gun
Liquid Thread Locker
1. Removing the Inner Tie Rod
Raise and secure the vehicle
Measure the length of the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod with a tape measure
Measure this length at extension and in compression
Note those measurements
Clean grease from the inner tie rod fitting
Loosen the inner tie rod from the steering rack with an adjustable wrench
Hold the outer tie rod in place with a wrench
Loosen the inner tie rod from the outer tie rod with the adjustable wrench
Remove the tie rod at the steering rack
Turn the inner tie rod counterclockwise to remove it from the outer tie rod
2. Installing the New Inner Tie Rod
Apply thread lock to the threads on the steering rack side of the inner tie rod
Use a floor jack to keep the stabilizer link above the working area
Thread the inner tie rod on to the steering rack
Tighten the inner tie rod to between 70 – 80 foot-pounds of torque
Twist the nut onto the outer end of the inner tie rod by hand
Turn the tire in to push the inner tie rod into the outer tie rod
3. Adjusting the Inner Tie Rod
Measure the length of the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod with a tape measure
Turn the inner tie rod with the adjustable wrench until its length is the noted length from Step 1
4. Greasing the Fittings
Use a grease gun to add grease to the inner tie rod fitting
Add grease until the tie rod boot starts to change shape
Add grease to other fittings as necessary
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, I'm going to replace an inner tie rod on this 2002 GMC Sierra. This procedure is the same for millions of GMC Sierra, Chevy Silverado, 1500 and 2500, 3500, pretty much all the same basic procedure. You'll need a couple of large adjustable wrenches. I found those work fine. You don't really need the exact size. Two large adjustable wrenches will work.You'll also need a tape measure and you'll need a grease gun with grease, and we do recommend that you have your vehicle aligned after a repair like this.
Here you can see, I have the vehicle up on a lift. Here is my inner tie rod running from here to here. This is the outer tie rod. You could see, I pull this boot down and I pull and what I'm looking at is basically the relationship of here to here and I can see some movement in here. I want to replace this. What I'm going to do is, I'm going to pull out, then I'm going to measure from there to there. Just a shade under ten inches, 9 and 15/16"?. Now, I'm going to pull it back in, and check here. It's about 9 and 7/8"?. When I put this back together, I'm going to set this right between 9 and 7/8"? and 9 and 15/16"?. I'm going to pull it apart. I'm just going to clean this off.
Take a nice big adjustable wrench. I'm loosening that up. On this end, I'm going to put a wrench on my outer tie rod just to hold it in place. We'll get that loosened up. I'm just going to speed up here. We loosened up the nut that's close to the center steering rack and then we loosened up the tie rod where it connects the outer tie rod. Take that nut off for the center steering first and then just turn the whole entire inner tie rod counter clockwise and take it out of the outer tie rod.
Here's a new tie rod from 1A Auto. It's always a good idea to put some thread lock on the inside. If you have your vehicle up on a lift, or a jack, you'll want to jack it up just to get, make sure your stabilizer bars up and out of the way. Thread it in and then use a wrench and tighten this. This should be tightened to 74 foot-pounds. Anywhere between 70 and 80 foot-pounds. In this shot, what I didn't explain very clearly, you can see where that red arrow is. I have a jack underneath the suspension. It just helps lift it up so that the stabilizer bar isn't in the way when you start the tie rod into the center steering link. With this wrench, just pull it nice and tight. Now I'm going to assemble the outer end. I'm going to put this nut on. Then to bring this down on my tire and in. Make sure it's going together straight. If you remember our measurement, basically, we want to be right at 9 and 31/32, so we've got a long way to go. I'm going to speed it up here as I keep using the wrench to turn the tie rod end into the outer tie rod end. I measured a couple of times just to see where I'm at. That is, it's just a little bit further than we want. Knock it off, right there. We've got our one wrench on here and then to tighten, hold on to the outer tie rod, taking that up nice and secure. Now make sure we grease the fitting. What I'm watching, I'm watching this boot here. Once that boot starts changing shape a little bit, I know the grease is in there. Then, while on here. I'm going to hit all my other grease spots as well.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
35mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Tie Rod Fork
Jack Stands
Grease Gun
Rubber Mallet
Tie Rod Puller
7mm Socket
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts.
Raise and secure the vehicle.
Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the tie rod assembly
Remove the tie rod bolt.
Use a pickle fork and hammer to separate it.
Use an adjustable wrench and a fitted wrench to remove the tie rod assembly.
3. Install the new tie rod assembly
Adjust your new tie rod assembly to match the old one for a preliminary alignment.
Mount the new tie rod assembly and tighten it in with a wrench.
Tighten the nut on the tie rod stud to 65 ft lbs.
Install the cotter pin.
Use a 7 mm wrench to install the grease fitting
With a grease gun, grease the inner and outer joints.
4. Put the wheel back on
Preliminarily tighten the lug nuts.
Lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 120 ft lbs using a star pattern.
Brought to you by 1A Auto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-something years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
In this video I'm going to show you inner and outer tie rod replacement. This truck actually just needed the inner, but if you're replacing the inner, you might as well replace the outer as well. These tie rods fit this whole generation of GM trucks and SUV's - trucks from 98 - 06 and SUV's from 99 - 07. The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a 22 mm lug wrench or socket and ratchet. You'll need either a 35 mm wrench or a 12 inch adjustable wrench that can go to 35 mm and then you'll need a second adjustable wrench as well, a tie rod removal tool, a grease gun, torque wrench, and pliers. The clunking noise was the inner tie rod. You can see here, when I shake the tire back and forth you'll see the inner tie rod move but that steering arm inside doesn't move, so you know there's play in there and it needs to be replaced.
Start out by raising and securing the vehicle on a jack stand and then remove your cap and wheel. We're going to remove this bolt. We've got a ratchet. If you don't have a breaker bar, use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. The bolt should come off pretty easily. Take the bolts off most of the way. I'm planning on replacing the outer tie rod as well, so I'm going to use a pickle fork to separate it. The best way to go about this is to get the wrench on it from underneath and push. That should break her free. I'm just going to speed up as I pull that out. You want to make sure that your outer tie rod spins with the wrench so the whole assembly spins and you don't shorten or lengthen the tie rod -- the inner and outer tie rod assembly.
There's your whole assembly out. If you can see here, I've got my old assembly, inner tie rod and outer tie rod, and I want to measure right from the edge of this surface here right to the end. I'm taking my new inner tie rod and outer tie rod and I put them together, just to compare. This will give you a good preliminary alignment. We'll put this nut a little closer. We can put it together now. It will be a good preliminary alignment until you can get your vehicle to a shop where you can get a real alignment.
I'm just leaving my nut right there and spinning my outer tie rod off. The nut marks the place where your tie rod was and then taking off that outer tie rod just makes it easier to get the inner one on. That allows me put my inner tie rod on. Speed it up here as I use the wrench to tighten the tie rod up. Then I can put my outer tie rod right back on and go right up to the nut. Then I'll just fast-forward here as I put that outer tie rod back on the inner tie rod. Now I'm just taking the nut or just getting the outer tie rod in place. Take the nut off the new tie rod, and I'm just going to get some of the debris off the steering knuckle there, and then you can push on the stud on the tie rod and get it lined up with the steering knuckle, and then push it up and in, and start your nut back on.
We'll tighten this up to 65 foot-pounds. Pull a little tighter here and we can get this cotter pin through. We'll fast-forward here as we install the cotter pin and bend the end over and then use a 7 mm wrench and install our grease fitting. We'll take a wrench screw up here. The other one holds the outer tie rod and just tighten up the block nut. Now you want to use a grease gun and grease both the joint for the outer tie rod and the inner tie rod.
Use some more fast-forward here. As you put the wheel and tire back on, start all the lug nuts one by one by hand first, then use your wrench to preliminary tighten them, then you can lower the vehicle back down on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm using a crossing pattern and then I do it one more time, go around all eight and make sure they're tight. Then you can put your center cap back on and you should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Reciprocating Saw
Hammer
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the hub cap by loosening the lug nuts
Remove the lug nuts and tire
2. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Using locking pliers to clip onto the top of the stabilizer link
Then remove 14mm bolt from bottom of the stabilizer link
Remove the stabilizer link with a hammer or reciprocating saw
3. Replacing the Stabilizer Link
Put the stabilizer piece back into place
Use four washers, four grommets, and a tube
Use a jack stand to help push it through till it appears through the top
Tighten the 14mm bolt on the stabilizer link
4. Replacing the Wheel
Put the tire in place
Replace and tighten each lug nut
Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 ft/lbs
Torque the center hub nut to 160 ft/lbs
Replace the hub cap and tighten the lug nut caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 and 2006. We show you on the passenger's side, but on the driver's side it's the same procedure. The items you need for this include a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, a 14mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, locking pliers, a hammer, and a reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle.
Remove your hubcap by loosening up these lug nut caps and pulling the hub cap. Now, you want to remove the lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to do this while the vehicle is on the ground. You can loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and pull the wheel out. Using locking pliers, clip on to the top of your stabilizer link, and then remove this 14mm bolt. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this.
Now, you want to just hammer the link through. If the link doesn't move, you may have to use a reciprocating saw and cut it. Up top is the old part; below is the new part from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. You want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole, then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube; then, before going through the next hole, another washer and grommet; then, on the top another grommet and another washer, then the nut.
Here, we just put the jack underneath the link. That's just to push it up through and compress the washers a little bit so that you can get the nut on the other end. Once I get another nut on, you'll see I just release the jack. You want to obviously be supporting the vehicle with jack stands, and then use your jack to push the bolt of the link up through. Then, you want to tighten up the sway bar link, and you basically want to tighten it up until the rubber bushings are compressed enough so that they're the same diameter as the washers.
Put the wheel back in place, then replace each of your lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap, and just tighten up those lug nut caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA59764
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Product Reviews
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4.79/ 5.033
33 reviews
5 Stars
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Direct replacement
Michael
February 26, 2017
This part is well made and a direct replacement part. It has a grease fitting and castle nut with cotter pin
Chevy Silverado 15 piece front end kit
P
March 28, 2017
A lot of parts for the money! upper control arms fit nice idler and pitman arms visually didn't seem as thick as the originals. Inner and outer tie-rod ends fit great except inner tie-rods don't want to except grease like they should but there still breaking in and I didn't use the lower ball joints because they didn't have grease zerks ( my choice)
Time will tell on overall quality but I would recommend! And hey I got free shipping!!! Go 1-A Auto!!!
Great buy
Samantha
July 25, 2017
This fits perfectly in my truck. I was sceptical about the quality until the parts arrived. They seem good. They were a Great price. I recommend these parts.
Thanks
C
October 29, 2017
Work great for perfect fit thanks A-1 Auto I would definitely get some more parts for from this website
15 pc suspension and steering kit Chevy 2500hd 4x4
K
February 17, 2018
Quick shipping and what an amazing price! All of the parts fit great with no machining or fab work! I was actually surprised. I would definitely buy from A1 Auto again!! Thanks again
review
J
March 22, 2018
1aauto is my new go to parts place. very pleased with all of it
So far so good.
J
May 2, 2018
I purchased this kit for my 2003 Hummer H2. All I have to say is it fit perfectly and the ride is great! Yes, it is different since it is non-grease however dont let that scare you or let others tell you differently. My big girl has a smoother ride since I put these on her. I highly recommend!!
Great product! Great service! Fast delivery
T
May 16, 2018
Had a 2002 2500 with 120k that had some badly worn original steering components, heard about 1A Auto from some buddies, looked into parts and kits! Ordered the kit on a Wednesday afternoon, called customer service as there was no options for faster delivery they were virtuous and helpful, had products by Friday afternoon and parts installed ready for alignment Saturday afternoon! New parts were direct fit and matched originals perfect! Good quality of parts. FOR A SMOKIN PRICE!
Everything worked and fit great.
Shane
July 5, 2018
The parts were all correct and easily to change after watching videos about replacement.
Michael
August 14, 2018
Parts arrived quickly and bolted right on. Fixed popping in the steering and suspension. Videos from 1a auto helped with installation questions.
smoking deal
luke
November 18, 2018
I purchased this package for my 2007 chevy 2500. Parts are high quality and bolted right up. exact match for existing parts. the how to videos are a great help.
B
December 8, 2018
High quality parts at a very good price. Everything bolted up with no issues. I would highly recommend this kit. The pitman arm was a little smaller than the old one but still looks strong so I used it, the rest of the parts looked the same as the old ones
Past expectations
Joshua
March 14, 2019
Parts fit great! Went together like I should have. Had damage to a part and new one was sent out that day and received the next no questions asked. Will be buying more parts from them! Great customer support as well!
First time ever
T
April 6, 2019
I bought the front end suspension replacement kit for our 2003 Chevy 2500 hd Duramax. I watched all the videos on how you do each job-upper and lower ball joints, tie rods, idler arm and idler bracket, pitman arm, and hub and bearing assembly. Great instructions. Prices are very competitive and customer service was great. I was also impressed by how fast the shipping was
Thank you 1AAuto for helping to make our truck the smoothest ride ever.
Suspension parts for a 2004 Chevrolet 4 wheel drive 2500 HD
R
April 22, 2019
I was very impressed with the parts that I received they were good quality Parts the price was very reasonable and I highly recommend this company for further Auto Parts purchases these parts were right to Spec's if not better than the factory parts that came on my truck
fixed my front end
J
August 23, 2019
the 15 piece kit was just what i needed for my 2002 truck and got some ugrade shocks as well with a rebate! thanks guys! joel m. houston
05 duramax
Jason
September 21, 2019
This kit is great, has everything I need and it looks just like the original stuff. I'll update this after I get everything broken in.
Fair quality and fast. Good value for the price.
Zachary
October 15, 2019
The title pretty much sums it up. My only issue was with the how-to's. I didn't realize until I went to install the parts that the page for the kit only has a how-to for one of the parts. You have to go find each individual part on the website to find how-to's. This also left me going back and forth to the hardware store for more tools, as I didn't realize that I wasn't looking at the total list of needed tools the first time.
Parts seem pretty good. Some have grease zerks, and some seem to be totally sealed. So, I'm a little unsure on how long the sealed ones will last.
Everything fit great and arrived quickly
Jamie
November 26, 2019
I would recommend these parts. They got to my house quick and installed easily. Thanks
Good replacement
Doreen
February 1, 2020
My 2500HD isn't a daily driver. This was a good refresh to the front end. Everything fit good. Truck drives great again.
2005 Chevy 2500 HD steering parts
SCOTT
March 31, 2020
I ordered my parts online, and was very pleased with not only the excellent price, but also the speedy delivery and the part fitment. All parts look just like the original, and seem to be of good quality.
A great set
O
April 27, 2020
This is a set of good quality part!! The upper control arms seem heavy duty, more then original part. And the price was superior to others. I will do business with A1auto again for my auto repair needs.
Hey dont forget there awesome help videos for some of us that need a little help.
Great product for the price!
J
June 21, 2020
Overall I have zero complaints the only issue I had was my upper control arms didnt have the grease zerks in them so I had to take the ones out of my old tie rods.
Little TLC
N
August 7, 2020
I have had my 2003 Chevrolet Silverado for 10 years and it needed a little TLC. I was scrolling around looking for parts and I found 1AAuto found the 15 piece kit that had everything I needed to do the job myself. Everything was great truck drives like a new one. Love my truck. Thanks 1AAuto
Complete front suspension 2500 gmc
Michael
September 17, 2020
I have to say Im impressed with the quality appearance of these parts. Just put them on so havent driven yet, but they fit perfectly and feel great. Better quality than box auto stores. Was missing one tie rod end, emailed on Tuesday had part in hand Friday. Wow. Talk about great customer service! Also ordered a mirror for my daughters Honda Civic. Exact fit, works perfect, was at my door less than 72 hours after placing online order. Again wow. Thanks 1a auto!
Rebuild kit
J
December 6, 2020
Everything fit correctly for a 2004 2500hd 6.6l. Extremely simple to install.
Parts came quick
J
January 8, 2021
Good parts fast delivery. Haven't put them on yet but they all look like they should fit.
Waste of money
M
January 9, 2021
I purchased this kit to replace the worn out parts on my chevy 3500 classic, within the parts arriving, I installed them only to found that the new tie rods from this kit were far worse than the ones they were replacing and couldn't be put on the vehicle to be safely driven. I replaced those with moog parts within a day of getting the parts from 1aauto. When called they said they would send me new ones and never saw them. Now, less than a year later the control arm bushings are shot and the wheel hubs, causing me to have to replace 2 new tires, once again, and have my truck down for repairs. After chewing out the company they are sending me new parts but they will NOT be going on my truck. I recommend going and getting moog parts who actually stand behind their parts and actually make quality parts that stay on your truck for more than a year. Yes my truck gets a lot of mileage but oem lasted 185k miles, my truck now has 213k. Congratulations 1aauto, your parts lasted a whopping 28k mi
T
March 2, 2021
All around good stuff, parts all fit and are good quality. Everything was here on time!!
H2 Hummer
Chanda
April 20, 2021
Awesome deal on new front end parts for my Hummer. All my parts came with new hardware cant beat the price for all 15 pieces plus with free shipping and no core charges !!! Thanks again what an awesome deal.
Aaron
December 12, 2021
Great
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500hd Duramax
evan
July 4, 2023
had a really bad front end shake and i needed a front end kit cheap and fast, was definitely skeptical and worried about the quality and durability of the parts being the front end but again needed something cheap and fast. got the parts fast and had no problem with shipping and all parts were there when i checked. was comparing all the parts when i was replacing them and all seemed to be like factory and quality was there. replaced all 15 front end parts and shake was gone ever since i replaced the front end. did a 3 month check on all parts and was vary happy that there was no play what so ever in the front end. definitely was a win with this kit epically proving my friends wrong with how cheap and good this kit was. hopefully it will last long term.
Quality
Ron
July 23, 2024
Got in timely manner and everything fit. Now we will see how long g they last and quality
Customer Q&A
What brand are the components?February 24, 2018
Owen K
10
They are made in Taiwan, was concerned but all parts are going on one year with no issues.
February 24, 2018
Todd J
Do these parts fit 2wd?March 6, 2018
Tim C
10
These parts are only listed as being correct for 4WD models. Thank you!
March 8, 2018
Adam G
10
4wd models is what they was for.
March 14, 2019
Joshua B
Will this fit my 2003 GMC sierra 2500hd duramax?June 1, 2018
Alejandro A
10
It should. I installed it my my 2001 2500hd. I don't think they changed parts until 2010. Hope this helps
December 8, 2018
B S
Are these grease able or sealed?October 27, 2018
R W
10
Yes
October 27, 2018
Michael G
10
Ive purchased two of these kits in the last 8 months, the ones I received all had grease zerks
October 27, 2018
T B
10
Grease able.
October 28, 2018
Michael H
10
Grease able ,,,lot of parts for the money love the kit idea so far so good but I really dont drive my truck much but happy with function and fit,,,and free shipping
October 28, 2018
P R
10
Our steering and suspension components come pre-greased, sealed for long life, and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greasable versions.
October 29, 2018
Christa R
Does the kit come with new control arm bolts or no ???January 4, 2019
Mckay A
10
It did not come with new bolts.
January 4, 2019
Anthony B
10
These control arms do not include bolts.
January 4, 2019
Andra M
10
No, it does not.
January 4, 2019
Michael H
10
No it just comes with what you see in the pic
January 6, 2019
David W
What brand of parts are included with this kit? How do the wheel hubs compare to other high end assemblies?September 3, 2019
T Y
10
Thank you for your inquiry. Everything in this kit will come from our 1A Auto in-house brand. We have all of our parts manufactured to exact OE specifications, so as long as the kit is listed to fit your vehicle, everything will fit and function just like the original parts that came on your vehicle. Everything shown will also include a limited lifetime warranty, so we will replace it for free as long as they are used as intended. Please contact us if you have any further questions.
September 4, 2019
A C
Is this a suspension lift?September 4, 2019
Rocky L
10
no. stock replacement parts
September 4, 2019
Robert F
10
Thank you for the inquiry. This kit will be made to the same OEM specifications so if your vehicle is lifted we can not guarantee fitment or longevity as they are meant to be installed to factory specs.
September 4, 2019
Curtis L
Are the included wheel bearing hub assembly for 4x4 applications??December 25, 2019
Derek L
10
Derek,
I have used the included wheel bearings on 3 different trucks. All are 4 wheel drive and I have not had any problems. Hope this helps!
December 25, 2019
Ron S
10
Thank you for your inquiry. These bearing and hub assemblies will be correct for both applications, as they are designed to fit and function correctly for both applications. Please be sure to check the vehicle fit list for your vehicle's exact information to ensure this kit will be the correct fit. Please let us know if you have any further questions.
December 26, 2019
A C
Is the pitman arm 3 groove or 4 groove?February 16, 2020
H L
10
This is a 3 groove pitman arm. Please do not hesitate to contact us with any further questions.
February 16, 2020
Emma F
Do these ball joints have grease zerks?April 17, 2020
Anthony H
10
These ball joints will come without any grease fittings and will come pregreased. Please do not hesitate to contact us with any further questions.
April 17, 2020
Emma F
If I provide a vin number can you specify which front end kit I need?May 13, 2020
Clint N
10
Hello,
Thank you for reaching out to us. You can contact us at 888-844-3393 and we can assist you.
Thank you,
Corey
May 13, 2020
Corey M
10
You dont need a vin. Just year make and model. Ex. 2001 Silverado 2500. And that will be the same kit for the HD.
June 6, 2021
Richy B
Anyone used this kit with a lift?? Im on a 3 lift.February 6, 2022
John D
10
These parts are meant to fit only for vehicles at their standard height. They will not work for vehicles with a lift.
February 7, 2022
John D
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Chevrolet is a registered trademark of General Motors Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Chevrolet or General Motors Company.See all trademarks.
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