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Replaces Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front Driver Side Strut & Spring Assembly TRQ SCA57574
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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Created on:
Tools used
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Tools used
Okay, friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So, have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So, come right underneath here. This is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So, I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Okay. Now that we have the sway bar link off of here, we need to go over to the other side of the vehicle and remove the sway bar link from the strut as well. That way there, we can move the sway bar up and down as needed to get to that mounting nut. There it is, friends.
Okay, friends. Now it's going to be time to put it in our brand new front sway bar link. One thing I like to mention is it's always a great idea to do these as a pair. And if that's the case, now's the time to do it. So, let's go ahead and put this in starting with the bottom. Now, I'm going to use my 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning, and then we'll snug it up. If you were to try to torque this you'd want to torque it to 48 foot-pounds. It's going to be very difficult to torque because as you try to twist, it's going to want to lift up on the bar. If you try to put the bar inside here, obviously, you're not gonna be able to get to it. So, 48 foot-pounds, if you can do it. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Okay friends. Before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe, so have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle, safely raised and supported. We're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts.
Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area, I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now, we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut.
If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have, and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure, and we'll try again. If your tie rod still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here, and break it free.
For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with, because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it, and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. It's always important to make sure you coat your threads with something such as copper never seize.
Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18 foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees, so basically a quarter turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another quarter turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that, and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.
The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut compared to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.
Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Tools used
Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all 5 of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel is off, we have a nice clear view of our front strut. With that said, anything that you're going to be removing bolts or nut-wise, you want to of course, spray it down with some penetrant.
First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Let's get the brake hose off of here. What we want to do here is just kind of move this brake line a little bit so we can give some slack between the stud and the strut, that way there we can lift this right up and out.
The next thing we need to do is loosen our 36-millimeter axle nut. The reason for that is because when this knuckle is going to want to pull away from the strut, we don't want to put a tug on any of our axle boots. A little bit of penetrant. The next thing you would want to do is either with a center punch, come right into that little dimple and just try to drive this axle into the bearing a little bit, just to give a little bit of slack, or of course, if you don't have a center punch, just put the nut so it matches up evenly, give it a couple loving bonks this way. That's nice and loose.
Next, we're going to remove our 18-millimeter nuts located right here and there. They hold the knuckle to the strut. Grab this bracket, carefully set it aside. These bolts right here are actually going to have to be forced out of the knuckle area. So what I always like to do is just take those nuts and I'm going to start them back on there, a few good threads, and you want to make sure that we're not going to damage the thread of the bolts. Give it a couple of loving bonks. Keep your ABS wire clear, do the same thing to the other one.
If you look at these bolts, you can see they're both the same, and if you look, you can also see that it's splined. That's the reason why it was stuck inside the knuckle.
Now we're going to carefully try to separate these two, but we want to make sure that this doesn't come down too far because once again, we don't want to put a tug on our axle boots, and we definitely don't want to put a tug on our brake line. If you want to have a bungee cord or something that's going to hold it at least away, but safely, that's up to you. There we are. I'm just going to set this right like that. Now we need to get under the hood. Now that we have the hood up, you have a clear view of the strut tower here. With that said, you don't want to touch this center nut. We're only going to remove these three, but when we remove all three, we want to leave one on there just a couple of threads for safety, and then we'll get under, we'll hold onto the strut and then we'll remove that nut.
If for some reason your strut didn't drop down when you removed all three of your nuts like that, it's because it's probably frozen along this area here into the strut tower. Use a little bit of penetrant and then carefully bonk right along here until it finally breaks free. Down like this, I'm just going to hold onto that strut, remove that last nut, and then I can remove it. There it is, friends. One thing that's always a great idea before you go ahead and try to put your new strut into the vehicle, is just line up the strut cap with the way the original was. So a match up from the bottom, make sure it's facing a straight line, and then just set these where they need to be. You can do that fairly easily by just holding the bottom and then turning the cap itself. Okay, friends, now it's going to be time to get our brand new front strut in here. As we do this, I like to mention that I always like to use a little bit of thread locker right on these studs. We'll call it your prerogative, but I recommend it. When we put this in, we want to make sure we line up the bolt holes with the studs coming out of our strut itself.
We'll start on all of our nuts, and then we'll snug them down and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Something that's important to make sure that I mention before we go ahead and put our knuckle up into the strut, is if you were to look along the backside of the knuckle, you might find that there's a lot of corrosion buildup. That's due to the fact that somebody made the knuckle out of aluminum and they put it in with the steel. When you have aluminum with steel, it just corrodes and that's what happens.
So feel along the back. If it feels as though it's raised, you need to make sure you take a chisel or whatever you might happen to have and clean that out. Now that I've got that knuckle cleaned up, let's go ahead and put this up so it's going to line up the bolt holes. Obviously, you want to clean up the threads on your mounting bolts. Something I always like to use is a little bit of red thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and start those through from the front to the back. Grab your two mounting nuts and of course, your bracket for the ABS wire, start it on there. We'll start these nuts, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.
Torque both these nuts to 89 foot-pounds. Let's get our brake hose back in there. It slides right into this little groove, and then of course we'll tighten it up. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. After you've bottomed out your axle nut, torque it to 159 foot-pounds. I like to put a bar straight across these studs like this, you want to be careful and make sure it's flat and not at an angle because you don't want to damage your threads on your studs.
We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now it's going to be time to make sure we go ahead and torque these down. Before we do that though, you need to make sure you have your wheel on the ground with the weight of the vehicle. Let's torque them to 18 foot-pounds.
Tools used
Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, I always like to put just one lug nut back on just to hold the rotor from flopping around. We have a nice, clear view of our lower control arm at this point, we're going to be removing this bolt right here. Up above that, you're going to see two nuts that have bolts that come through from the bottom. We're going to spray those two nuts as well. And then if you were to follow the control arm all the way over to the knuckle, you're going to see that there's a pinch bolt that goes through right there. And, of course, a slot on the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. Let's spray all those areas as well. The next thing I like to do is remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint. I'm gonna use my 15-millimeter here to take off the nut and hold the bolt with a 16-millimeter. I might need to use a punch and a hammer to get this out of here. I'm gonna respray this area with more penetrant and let it sit and do its job. Let's move along. Next, let's remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. Let's remove the forward bolt. Let's just leave this bolt in just a tiny bit. Let's get our wrench onto these top nuts up there and remove the bolts from the bottom.
Now we need to separate our ball joint from the knuckle itself. To do that, I'm going to bonk right along here with my hammer and just try to separate the two. You could also use a pickle fork, come right in between here. Or if you had to, you could try to spread the knuckle a little bit using a punch. As you can tell, it's starting to separate. Let's continue. Sometimes a pry bar will come in handy. Let's remove our forward bolt, tilt this down some more. Continue with the pry bar. Draw this out of here. Grab the control arm, pull it towards the front of the vehicle. Let's get the rearward bracket out of here. There it is, friends. The next thing I like to do is mark the control arm with the rearward bushing, so I know how they need to line up. And then we're going to remove this bolt right here using our 14-millimeter wrench. There we are. Take this right off of here. Set it aside. Next. I like to apply thread locker to all my bolts that I'm going to be reinstalling. Now we're going to loosely install our rearward bushing here. You want to make sure that you have this portion facing towards the front and not this portion. My bolt, there it is. Next, I like to apply a little bit of grease or lubricant along the shaft area right here. It's going to help it slide into that bushing. And just a tad up along the ball joint stud here, let's go ahead and put this up in here like this. Put it through that rear bushing.
Now we're just gonna swing this up. We're going to try to line our ball joint up with the knuckle right there. There we are. Carefully using a rubber mallet. Start the bolt through there, pin that on there. Now we need to do the forward bushing. Slide that like that so it's lined up. Now we're going to carefully bonk under here with a rubber mallet and try to line up the forward hole. Start this in. This other bolt started in here as well. At this point, we're going to snug these two up. Put some thread locker on this bolt and put this in there. We're going to bottom it out. Let's carefully bottom this out. Now we're gonna torque this. You want to torque it to 37, loosen it up a little bit, re-torque it to 37, and then we're going to go an additional 30 degrees. Okay. So, there's 37, now we're just going to go our approximate additional 30 degrees. Now we're gonna tighten these bolts to 37 foot-pounds, and then we'll also tighten them an additional 90 degrees afterward. So, I'm gonna turn this just like this, and now I'll bring the ratchet pretty much straight back to me. There we are. Do the same to the other one.
Next, we need to apply load to the suspension so it would be as though the vehicle's wheel is on the ground and the weight of the vehicle's on it. That's it right there. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and bottom out this bolt right here. Now we're going to torque this bolt to 37 foot-pounds. And then after we've done that, we need to continue an extra 90 degrees. There we are. The next thing we need to do is snug this up right here, and then torque it to 32 foot-pounds. Let's unload the suspension. Let's get this lug nut off of here. Put the wheel back on, start all the lug nuts, bottom them out, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.
Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.
Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.
Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.
Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.
Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you wanna be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're gonna talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension's hanging. So come right underneath here. This is where you're gonna support the vehicle in the front. Now, with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our tie rod area. I'm just gonna spray down these areas with some penetrant spray. Now we're gonna use some nice long pliers, and I'm gonna break this jam nut free. Turn this clockwise. There we are. Now we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut. If you find that the outer tie rod end nut just spins the whole stud inside of the knuckle, you could take those nice long pliers or whatever you might happen to have and just try to squeeze this down as tight as you can. We're gonna apply a little bit of pressure and we'll try again. If your tie rod's still stuck in the knuckle, it's great to use a hammer, bonk right on the knuckle right here and break it free.
For the next part, we're gonna want something that you can write with because we're gonna take off the tie rod, but as we turn it and we make a complete rotation, we're gonna count those rotations and take note of it. That's one, two, three, and so on. The next thing we need to do is hold our inner tie rod end shaft with some locking pliers. After that, we're gonna remove this jam nut. Next, we need to remove this clamp right here. I like to use some nice long pliers.
Next, we need to remove this metal clamp right here. To do that, it's easiest if you bonk on it with something. I'm just gonna use a pry bar and a hammer. I'm gonna bonk it, break it free, and we'll get that boot right off. Here it is. Grab onto your boot. Give it a nice little twist. See if you can break it free from the power steering rack. If your boot is stuck on the power steering rack, you can be careful and use an ice pick like this and just try to break it free. Oh, yeah. Now I can give it a nice twist. Pull it off the power steering rack. You might notice it's also stuck on here. If you want to use a tiny bit of penetrant, you could do that. I'm just gonna twist and give it a tug. It should wanna slide right off.
Next, it's gonna be time to get the inner tie rod end off of the power steering rack. A wise man once said whatever works, works. So you can either use some nice long pliers like this, an inner tie rod end tool that looks like this, or they even have a tube that would slide over with a little adapter. Do whatever you need to do, but turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the rack. Now that the tool's on there, let's go ahead and break this free. There we are. We'll just get our tool off of there, but there it is.
Now it's gonna be time to install our brand new inner tie rod end. One thing that you wanna do, of course, is to take off that jam nut. We're gonna be reusing it, so we'll just set it aside. After we've done that, we're gonna apply a little bit of grease, right along inside here of the nice packet that they gave us. Don't use it all because we're also gonna use a little bit right along this lip right here. I'll just put all this right in there. Using a gloved finger, go ahead and just smooch it all right in there. This is gonna help keep moisture out of there and, of course, help lubricate it over time. A little bit right here, like I said. If you wanna use a little bit of blue threadlocker on those threads, we'll call it your prerogative. I'm just gonna go ahead and screw this on here until it's nice and snug and then we'll tighten it to manufacturer specifications. Torque this to 74-foot-pounds.
Now it's gonna be time to get our inner tie rod end boot on there. Just go ahead and take a nice wire tie, start it so it's not tight yet. We're gonna slide this right on over. We'll put it over the rack as well, and then, of course, we'll snug it right up. You need to make sure you have some sort of clamp if you don't use a wire tie. Trim off the excess. Now we're gonna make sure we put on the outer clamp. If it's damaged or it doesn't seem like it has enough spring retention, of course, replace that with something as well. Now it's gonna be time to coat the threads with something. If you don't have any copper never seize, you can go ahead and just use a tiny bit of that grease that we just used for the inner tie rod end. New jam nut.
Now it's gonna be time to put on our brand new outer tie rod end. As you go to install it, make sure you put on the same amount of turns that you had to remove the old one. One, two, three, and so on. Should pretty much line up. Let's put on our outer tie rod end nut. We'll snug it up and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications as well. We wanna torque this to 18-foot-pounds and then add an additional 90 degrees. So basically 1/4 turn after the 18. So that's 18. Now I need to take it another 1/4 turn. I'm gonna start approximately like that and I'm gonna bring it right out to me. There we are.
The next thing we wanna do is pay attention to the slots on the nut, compare it to the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Go to the very next slot. As you can tell, I have that lined up now. Take your cotter pin, slide it through, and then peen it over so there's no way this nut can loosen up on its own.
Now it's time to tighten up our jam nut. We're gonna grab this, turn it counterclockwise. That feels good. Now just go ahead and grab onto that tie rod, make sure it's pretty level and it's not kinked in any way. Double-check everything. We have all our clamps. Perfect. We're gonna go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts. We'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100-foot-pounds. Torqued.
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