1999 Chevrolet P30 V8 5.7L 16 Valve Engine VIN R Vortec 2 Piece Ignition Kit TRQ ICA60042

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In this video, we're going to change the spark plugs on this 1996 Tahoe with a 5.7 liter Vortec motor, same engine and same procedure for any Chevy or GMC pickup, Tahoe, Suburban or Yukon with this body style. We don't show you every plug. We show you the general best practice that we have, as well as really the number three plug is probably the hardest one. You need a couple of special tools. The tools you'll need are a ratchet, a 5/8 inch spark plug socket, as well as a 5/8 inch regular socket. You'll need a 6 inch and 12 inch extension, and you'll also need a flexible joint.

I'm looking at the driver's side. I've got the vehicle lifted up so that the tire is as far down as possible. Actually, if you take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and carefully pull out these clips, you'll be able to see this is your best shot right at all the spark plugs. You can get these from up top as well, but this is your straightest and really your easiest shot. Just to further explain here, on these trucks you can fairly easily go from the top and reach all your spark plugs, but quite honestly, I find it a whole lot easier on my back just to jack up the truck a little bit so that the wheel is all the way down in its travel. Then pull out these flaps on the side and then you have a pretty straight shot from the inner finder and I always find it easier to do something kneeling down rather than trying to bend over or standing on a stool over the fenders and front end and stuff. That usually makes my back spasm, so I find it a whole lot easier to do it going in from this way.

Now, obviously, to replace a plug, reach in there, be careful if your engine is warm. It's better to do this with the engine cold. I'm just reaching in and trying to turn the boot on the plug a little bit and pull at the same time. That comes off. Now you want to use a 5/8 inch plug socket. This is a 12 inch extension. It will get you right on a plug. It keeps your hands out here on the inner fender. Once you loosen them, they should come out pretty easily. Now, I'll I just speed it up here as I remove that. That first one is a pretty easy one.

Most of the time on your truck, you're going to have a sticker on this, and you're can see right there it says spark plug gap 0.060.We take our new plug, it's our 0.060. I can tell it's pretty closed here. I'll use this to open up the gap a little bit. I'll open it up there until it slides through there with a little bit of friction, just like that.

Now, fast forward as we load the plug up into our plug socket and then start it out by hand first. You always want to make sure that the plug starts in and turns easily by hand before you put a wrench on it. Then the plug should be torqued to 20 foot-pounds. Actually you can see the best strategy for this next one is just a regular 5/8 inch, deep socket because, the spark plug kind of angles down right at the steering shaft and that heat shield gets in your way. The next plug is the number three plug. That's the second one from the front on the drivers side. It's basically the toughest. What you want to do, is use your regular spark plug socket on there. You want to use a regular 5/8 inch socket. Basically what I'm doing here is I'm putting the socket onto the spark plug first. There you can see the socket's on the spark plug. Then what I'm going to do is put a universal or a flexible joint on the end of my extension and then get that in there. That is really the best way to get to that spark plug. After that, the number five, which is the third one from the front, is pretty much the same or actually it's pretty straight forward. When you get to the rear plugs on each side, you just want to use a shorter extension, probably a six inch extension because the inner wheel well's in the way. You can see on the passenger side it's just even easier. There's less obstruction without the steering shaft and you can go right in there.

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