Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front lower ball joint in a 1998 Toyota Camry. This information is going to be the same from 1992 to 2001 on the Camry, as well as several other Toyota vehicles.
The items you'll need for this repair are new front lower ball joints from 1AAuto.com, a 17mm socket ratchet and extension, 10 to 19mm wrenches, a torque wrench, needle-nose locking pliers, a pickle fork, a breaker bar, a hammer, pry bar, penetrating oil, and the jack and jack stands.
Break all your lug nuts loose while the vehicle's still on the ground. You're going to need a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Install your jack under the vehicle, line it up with the pinch weld, jack the vehicle up high enough that you can get a stand underneath. Making sure you have enough clearance to remove your tire, or whatever you have to do under the vehicle. Install your jack stand onto this unibody frame rail under the vehicle. If you need to work on the rear of the vehicle, put your jack stand underneath and just ahead of the lower control arm here, right by the tow point. Once the weight is on your stands, give the vehicle a little shake, and make sure that they're on there secure. Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Make sure that you bring the vehicle up so that when it sits on the other set of jack stands, the vehicle will be level. You can now lower your vehicle onto the stands on this side.
With the vehicle raised and supported, remove your lug nuts the rest of the way. If you need a little more room to work, you can pull the hubcap off. Remove your wheel from the hub. We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.
Locate the lower ball joint on the back side of the steering knuckle, just below the CV axle. Using a pair of needle noise pliers, straighten out the cotter pin. The head of the cotter pin on the driver's side of our vehicle has been mangled from an improper installation. We'll show you how to get a stuck one out. We'll use a pair of side cutters to break the head on the end of the cotter pin. Once that's split, we're going to use a large flat-headed punch to try to hit the broken ends of the cotter pin where they've snapped off pretty flush with the bolt to try to knock it out enough on the other side that we can grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it through. You want to be very gentle when you hit this. You need to hit it hard enough to move it out, but not so hard that it peens the ends over, and it won't come out of the ball joint. We're going to use a smaller flat punch now to try to push the legs of the cotter pin through as far as we can. We're just going to add a little penetrating oil here, just to try to help get those cotter pins out. Using that same pair of needle nose locking pliers, grab on.
We're going to use a 19mm open end wrench to try to get on there and break the nut loose on the ball joint. You can see that the CV axle might interfere with us removing it all the way, but once we get it pretty close and we know it's going to move, we can separate the ball joint from the knuckle, which will give us the extra clearance we need and allow us to finish removing it. The nut is now coming in contact with this shield around the ring of the CV axle, so we'll have to lower the ball joint down into the spindle to finish removing the nut.
Using a pickle fork, or a ball joint separator, and a hammer, knock the pickle fork in to pop the ball joint out of the spindle. Use that same 19mm wrench to finish taking off the nut. You'll notice I left the pickle fork in there, so if we come in contact with the CV axle again we can just pry down to get the extra clearance we need. We're hitting it again now, so we'll pull down. Finish removing the nut so we have the clearance to do it without hitting the CV axle. Remove the nut from the top of the ball joint.
Using a 17mm socket and ratchet, remove the two nuts and the bolt connecting the ball joint bracket to the lower control arm. After you've removed all the bolts, use a pry bar to pull down on the control arm and release the ball joint.
Here we have our old part from the vehicle and our new part from 1A Auto. As you can see, we have the same bracket here, the same bend to mount the ball joint into, and the same stud on each one of them. Flip them over, and you'll see that they're the exact same, with the exception of the new one being serviceable. We have a grease fitting on the bottom here so when you're down there doing your oil change and other maintenance things, you can grease all your fittings. It helps with the longevity and keeps them in good shape a lot longer.
Our new ball joint also comes with new castle nut and a new cotter pin. Just to give you an idea here while it's a little easier to see, ours was in there incorrectly in the video. They had installed their vertically, like this. If you install it sideways like that, it leaves a loop, and makes it easier for you to grab and take out later. If your old ball joint has a torn boot, it's blown out the grease, or it has up and down play in it, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in, direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Here we have our new ball joint from 1A Auto. Flip it over, and you'll notice the bottom of the joint is threaded. It comes with a grease fitting, or a Zerk fitting, that we'll have to install. Just thread it in by hand. With the 10mm open end wrench, just bring it down until it's tight. It’s very fine thread on this so you don't want to crank them down super tight. As long as it's on there snug and it's sealed so no grease comes out, you should be all right.
Install your new ball joint into the spindle and start the nut on there as far as you can. We're going to insert a pry bar into the control arm and pull down until we can install the studs of our ball joint bracket back into the control arm. Start the nuts onto the ball joint bracket. You can see that they have little centering acorns on the bottom there, and that will help us line up the top. Tighten those with a 17mm socket and ratchet. Once the centering portion starts in, move to the other one. Start our top bolt in, bring everything down tight. Torque both nuts and the bolt to 94 foot-pounds.
Tighten down the nut on the top of the spindle with a 19mm wrench. Be sure that one of the windows in the castle nut lines up with the hole in the stud, so we can install our cotter pin after it's tight. We'll install the cotter pin sideways with the longer of the two legs facing in toward the vehicle. Remember that this goes sideways, not vertically. We'll bend one of the legs around the nut. We can leave the other one straight or cut it off, whichever you prefer.
Start your lug nuts. Check that they're all seated. Jack up on your pinch weld. Be sure that where you jack isn't going to interfere with your ability to remove the jack stands. Bring the vehicle up until it's off the stands. Remove your stands from under the vehicle. With the stands clear, lower the vehicle. Move to the other side, and repeat these steps. If you've removed the tire, only lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground. With partial weight of the vehicle on the ground, torque your lug nuts to 76ftlb in a cross pattern. Then you can remove your jack the rest of the way. To reinstall your hubcap, align this notch with the valve stem on the wheel. Snap it back into place.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to replace the inner tie rod on this 2004 Chrysler Sebring. It's the same process on the Sebrings from 1996-2005. Your vehicle will need an alignment after this repair is done. The only tools you'll need for this are an adjustable wrench, pliers, a hammer, a tape measure, monkey wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing the wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, as well as the wheel and tire.
Turn your wheel so that you have better access to the tie rods, and then just remove this cotter pin. Use a pair of pliers to just straighten it out, and then pull it right out of there. Using your adjustable wrench, just remove this castle nut. It's important to measure from your inner tie rod to the outer tie rod so that you can remember exactly how far up the outer tie rod's supposed to be. Loosen the nut in between the inner and outer tie rod. With a hammer, just hammer the knuckle right here to loosen up your outer tie rod, and now you should just be able to pull it up and out, and twist that off of the inner tie rod.
Now, you can twist off this nut as well. With a pair of pliers, just push in this clamp and pull it down. You can see this boot's held on with a wire tie, and we're just clipping a wire tie. In most cases this won't be what you have so we're going to show a different repair here just to show you what you will have. There's a clip underneath and you just stick a screwdriver in there, hit it with a hammer, and that clamp will just pull right off. Using a pipe wrench, remove the inner tie rod. You can see, you just loosen it up and then it twists right out.
Now, take your new inner tie rod and twist it into place. Now, take a wire tie and put it on the end of the boot, and just feed that boot back into place and tighten up that wire tie. It's going to act as that clamp you removed earlier. Using your pliers you can slide that other clamp back onto the front of the boot, and twist that nut on.
Now, take your outer tie rod and twist it back onto the inner tie rod. Now, using the tape measure, make sure it's back to exactly where it was. You can see ours is. Then you want to just tighten that nut back into place and push the outer tie rod back into the knuckle. Now, you can replace your castle nut. When you tighten up the castle nut, make sure that you have this hole lined up so you can put that cotter pin back into place. Then use a pair of pliers, just pry out the ends of it. Using your adjustable wrench tighten that nut up just the rest of the way, and using your grease gun, just fill up that grease filler on your outer tie rod.
I'm going to fast forward here as Don replaces the wheel. You want to replace the lug nuts, tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, tighten them the rest of the way, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
