Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
100% New ComponentsFor quality fit, finish, and easy installation.
Heat TreatedFor longer-lasting life and consistent performance under different road conditions.
Precision MachinedAnd made of brand new components, held to tighter tolerances for better consistency than rebuilt parts.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
With the wheel off and the vehicle on jack stands and supported, need to punch out the part where the axle nut has been staked into the axle. This way the axle nut can be removed. There's no cotter pin. It's actually, once it's installed, it's been peened in, or staked. So I need to take another punch and work it underneath.
All right, let's spray some rust penetrant on the end of the axle. It needs a 30 millimeter 12-point deep socket to remove this axle nut. You're going to want to have an assistant step on the brake and then use a really long breaker bar to break this free. I broke it free with the breaker bar. I'm going to use a ratchet to bring the rest of the way off. I'll just leave it threaded on there for now.
Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Then you can lay the sway bar link over to the side. Disconnect the tie rod end to the ball joint and pull it off the knuckle. That way I can turn the knuckle freely, push the axle out of the back of the knuckle, and the axle out in this direction and then work on freeing it from the transmission and the bearing mount that's here on the side of the engine. Once those are released, you should be able to pull the axle straight out of the engine compartment.
Spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off. They get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free, and you end up having to put vise grips behind to grab onto the ball joint because there's no point here for a wrench. We'll do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.
This is 17 millimeter nut. Break it free first. See it's turning. It's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. Try and do clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive, so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner. I've sprayed some oil in there, and I've been working the Hicks drive-in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, try to get to sit as best I can. Think that's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there.
I'm going to try to counter hold this with the hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter box wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut. That needs just have so much See, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight though, so I'm going to I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant. These are typically self-locking nuts so they're a little bit They're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong. That can make removing them difficult. Also, the rust gets gummed up in the threads. I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads.
As I kind of expected, working these back and forth, this hex drive, they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. The next step I'm going to get some vise grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut. Going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link, got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet and try to remove these.
It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention: if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part. But we carry them at 1aauto.com. If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut. I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint in the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.
I need to separate the outer tie rod end with the ball joint from the knuckle. There's a cotter pin in the castle nut. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant in here. Take some needle-nose pliers and bend the cotter pin over so it's straight. You can use side cutting pliers to get a better grip on it. Pry it out. Try not to squeeze too hard. You don't want to cut the cotter pin if you don't have to. Easier to remove it in one piece. There we go. I'm going to use a 17 millimeter box wrench and break the castle nut free. It doesn't want to budge. Take a dead blow mallet, tap the end of the wrench. I'm just going to put that nut just on the end. Can hit right here in the knuckle with a metal hammer to try to free this ball joint from here.
You do run the risk of cracking this knuckle and damaging it. It's preferred to use a ball joint separator tool. I'm just going to slide that in, thread it down. Use the appropriate size wrench for the tool and keep threading it. This will separate the ball joint by pressing it out. They have a taper, and basically it's press fit. When you tighten in the nut, it presses into the knuckle. That's what holds it in place. It needs to be pressed out. That one is free. Remove the nut. Just work that out. Might have to move that a little bit. Just place that aside. This way I've got more room to move the knuckle to get the axle up.
I want to spray some rust penetrant into the splines here to help this slide out. It needs a plastic dead blow hammer to free it from the knuckle/the axle. Now it's moving nice and free. I can take the axle nut off. Now that I know that this axle will move free from inside the hub, I'm just going to put the axle nut back on for now, just a couple of threads to keep it from falling out potentially, because we need to go underneath and loosen these ball joint, the two nuts and the bolts, and pull the knuckle and strut assembly away from this lower arm and help us get the CV axle out.
We can separate the ball joint from the lower control arm by removing these nuts and this bolt here. You don't have to mess with the ball joint that's in the knuckle. Spray a little bit of rust penetrant on these. Just using the rag so it doesn't drip everywhere. This one has threads on the top side. These are 17 millimeter, so I'm using a 17 millimeter socket, a breaker bar and extension. Put these bolts aside so I can reuse them. I'm going to grab the lower control arm and I'll push up on the suspension arm a little bit, get them to separate. Might need to use a pry bar. That's why I put the nut on the axle shaft so it didn't slide completely out on me. Let's take the nut off of the axle, pull the axle out of the hub, and place that aside.
Now we're under the car. There is a axle bearing carrier that is both of the back of the engine block that our passenger side CV axle is going through. This is a bearing inside here, and then it goes out and into the transmission. I need to spray some rust penetrant in here and remove this big locking ring and then remove this locking bolt, and this should slide out of this carrier and come out of the transmission. We'll have a drain pan ready to catch any fluid that comes out of here. But that should do it. Get some rust penetrant up in here. You can either use a large flat bladed screwdriver. I'm using a big pry bar to kind of push it free.
Use some slip jaw pliers, kind of squeeze these together. This upper part of the snap ring is kind of rusted and seized into the groove. Take a ball-peen hammer and try to tap it free. Back to the slip jaw pliers, kind of basically free it from the groove that it's in. If this snap ring comes out without a problem
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic. Pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. Use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this for the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. Lug nuts are loose. I can take my socket and finish removing them. Just going to hold on to the wheel. Take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. Don't want to drop it. Drop the lug nut, that's okay. Just don't want the wheel to fall.
Before we can remove this axle nut, we need to bend back the staking. Instead of a cotter pin this is what locks the axle nut in here. Going to take a small punch and a hammer and bend that out so that the nut can be turned off the axle shaft. Going to spray some rust penetrant on the nut and the threads to help it move. This uses a 30 millimeter 12-point deep socket. Take a larger breaker bar, then I'm going to have an assistant sit in the car and step on the brakes so it doesn't turn for me. Then I'll break it free. Someone helping you holding the brakes, take the breaker bar and our socket and turn this off. There it is. Give it a couple good turns while they're holding the brake. Make sure it's moving nice and free. Now going to switch it to a smaller ratchet. Little easier to handle. Work on taking it off the rest of the way. All right. It's pretty loose now. I can take it off with my hands.
For now, I'm just going to keep the old one on there so the axle doesn't slide back out on me while I'm trying to remove it. This ball joint on the tie end needs to be separated from the knuckle so we can turn the knuckle and help push the axle out. So I'm going to remove the cotter pin that's in here. Kind of bend it back with some needle nose pliers. Pull it out.
Now we can remove this castle nut and separate the tie rod end. Spray some rust penetrant on here to help this castle nut come off. 17 millimeter box wrench. Break it free. It's on here pretty tight. Going to use a mallet to break it free. Try to pop this out. This actually came up pretty easily. If this ball joint was stuck in place, you could try to hit here with a hammer to break it free. It sits on a taper. You run the risk of breaking this knuckle if you're hitting it really hard with a hammer.
It's recommended you use a ball joint separator. It just sort of goes on like here and then as you turn it, it separates the ball joint out. It usually snaps out when it breaks free. This one luckily came loose. Pop it right out. Place it aside.
We have already replaced this ball joint, but we need to remove it to pull the axle out. Sometimes these bolts, or these nuts on these studs could be 17 millimeter. On our new one they're 19mm. This is still 17mm on this bolt.
I'm going to start with the 17 millimeter bolt and remove that. Remove these 19 millimeter nuts. I'm going to pull down on the control arm and push up on the knuckle. Pop it out of there. All right. I need to tap the axle through the hub assembly. Just going to use a big dead blow mallet. I've got the nut on here. Just tap it out. Now it's going to come free so I can take the nut out. I'm going to reach behind here and pull it straight out as I separate it from the knuckle. Can turn the knuckle as need be. Stuck in here. Push this out. All right. See the axle is just in the transmission right now.
Get a drain pan ready to catch any transmission fluid that might come out the opening once we remove the axle. Take a pry bar and go right under the edge of the CV axle, up against the transmission and try to pry it out. I'm also holding this end of the axle so it doesn't fall out completely. There it is. Reach up and try to pull it straight out so I don't damage the transmission seal. Then I'm just going to feed it right out of the wheel well.
Here's our old CV axle from our vehicle and our brand new one from 1aauto.com. There's no core on this. It's ready to go. You can see it's the same length, same style, splines that go into the transmission with the lock ring. It's got our ABS tone ring. Has a new axle nut. Also, has the spot where it will get staked when were done. This should fit in the vehicle great and get you back on the road.
This end needs to go in the transmission. We're going to go straight in with it. Switch hands. I can go underneath. I want to guide this straight into the transmission making sure not to damage the axle seal. Kind of find the splines. Just wiggle it in. Once it gets pretty close, I can then take the dead blow mallet and hit it home. There it is. You're going to get the new axle through the hub assembly. Try to turn it. Got the axle nut handy because we're going to capture it after it goes through. Just going to put it right here. Push this away. Want to go all the way in. Might have to turn it. It get lined up with the splines. It'll push through. We're going to grab that axle nut and put it on so it doesn't pop back through. Pull this lower arm down. Move the knuckle over. Get these studs caught. Also, turn this. Get them lined up. Get the bolt caught first. Get these nuts caught. I'm going to snug these down before I torque them. Torque these two nuts and the bolt to 55 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the tie rod end. Turn the knuckle. Reinstall the castle nut. Turn it down a little more. Cotter pin hole lined up. Install a new cotter pin. Install a new cotter pin. Bend it over with my needle nose pliers. With someone holding the brake for you, torque the axle nut to 217 foot-pounds. Now, with it torqued, instead of using a cotter pin, we need to stake this axle nut. So I'm going to use a punch. I'm going to bend the metal right into this groove that's in the axle.
If you've gotten this brake rotor all greasy from touching it, you just want to take some brake parts cleaner and clean it off before you drive the car. Wipe off anything excess with a rag. Those look like rust spots, they'll come right off as soon as you drive it. You just don't want any grease on here.
Reinstall our wheel. Important to note, these lug nuts have a taper. A taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this. That is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut side. I'm just using a socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot pounds. Going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. Got to line up the opening of the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
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