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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to change the spark plugs on this 1996 Tahoe with a 5.7 liter Vortec motor, same engine and same procedure for any Chevy or GMC pickup, Tahoe, Suburban or Yukon with this body style. We don't show you every plug. We show you the general best practice that we have, as well as really the number three plug is probably the hardest one. You need a couple of special tools. The tools you'll need are a ratchet, a 5/8 inch spark plug socket, as well as a 5/8 inch regular socket. You'll need a 6 inch and 12 inch extension, and you'll also need a flexible joint.
I'm looking at the driver's side. I've got the vehicle lifted up so that the tire is as far down as possible. Actually, if you take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and carefully pull out these clips, you'll be able to see this is your best shot right at all the spark plugs. You can get these from up top as well, but this is your straightest and really your easiest shot. Just to further explain here, on these trucks you can fairly easily go from the top and reach all your spark plugs, but quite honestly, I find it a whole lot easier on my back just to jack up the truck a little bit so that the wheel is all the way down in its travel. Then pull out these flaps on the side and then you have a pretty straight shot from the inner finder and I always find it easier to do something kneeling down rather than trying to bend over or standing on a stool over the fenders and front end and stuff. That usually makes my back spasm, so I find it a whole lot easier to do it going in from this way.
Now, obviously, to replace a plug, reach in there, be careful if your engine is warm. It's better to do this with the engine cold. I'm just reaching in and trying to turn the boot on the plug a little bit and pull at the same time. That comes off. Now you want to use a 5/8 inch plug socket. This is a 12 inch extension. It will get you right on a plug. It keeps your hands out here on the inner fender. Once you loosen them, they should come out pretty easily. Now, I'll I just speed it up here as I remove that. That first one is a pretty easy one.
Most of the time on your truck, you're going to have a sticker on this, and you're can see right there it says spark plug gap 0.060.We take our new plug, it's our 0.060. I can tell it's pretty closed here. I'll use this to open up the gap a little bit. I'll open it up there until it slides through there with a little bit of friction, just like that.
Now, fast forward as we load the plug up into our plug socket and then start it out by hand first. You always want to make sure that the plug starts in and turns easily by hand before you put a wrench on it. Then the plug should be torqued to 20 foot-pounds. Actually you can see the best strategy for this next one is just a regular 5/8 inch, deep socket because, the spark plug kind of angles down right at the steering shaft and that heat shield gets in your way. The next plug is the number three plug. That's the second one from the front on the drivers side. It's basically the toughest. What you want to do, is use your regular spark plug socket on there. You want to use a regular 5/8 inch socket. Basically what I'm doing here is I'm putting the socket onto the spark plug first. There you can see the socket's on the spark plug. Then what I'm going to do is put a universal or a flexible joint on the end of my extension and then get that in there. That is really the best way to get to that spark plug. After that, the number five, which is the third one from the front, is pretty much the same or actually it's pretty straight forward. When you get to the rear plugs on each side, you just want to use a shorter extension, probably a six inch extension because the inner wheel well's in the way. You can see on the passenger side it's just even easier. There's less obstruction without the steering shaft and you can go right in there.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and replace spark plugs on this 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a 4.6 liter. Tools you'll need are a 7mm socket with a ratchet and extension, a 5/8 sparkplug wrench or socket with a ratchet and extension as well, and you will also need a spark plug gapping tool.
Take an 8mm wrench and disconnect your negative battery cable. Replacing your coil and spark plugs- pretty easy. I'm going to show you on this side because it's easier to film and get to. The other side is just as easy. You do just need to remove your intake hose which is three clamps and another couple of hose connections on the back. Then you can remove that whole intake hose and get to your coils pretty easy.
The coils are held in place by a 7mm bolt. Get the socket ratchet down on there. It can be a little tough to break loose. I just want to get my socket off of here before I get too far. This connection, you just reach underneath and there's a little tab right here. Squeeze that tab and the harness pulls loose. You can just kind of pull your coil up and out like that. To get your spark plug out I've got a spark plug socket. It's a 5/8 spark plug socket. It's designed to grip onto the plug although I know mine is pretty worn out so I'm just going to put a little piece of paper towel in there and then you can put your wrench right down in. There's usually a little bit of angle. Break the spark plug loose.
Just fast forward through loosening that and then what happens is I actually get another piece of paper towel just to stuff in there to grab onto the spark plug. There's my plug. You can see these plugs are in pretty rough shape. Here's the spark plug we took out, and then here's the new platinum tip. You can see that there is quite a bit more to the new plug than the old one. This one is pretty worn out. On this Lincoln Town Car with 4.6 liter, you want to make sure that the gap between the tip of the plug and the diode is at .054. My gauge only goes to .050. So we're just going to have to just say the .004 is going to be okay which I'm sure it will be. I don't think the engine is going to mind a .004 difference in gap. What we can do is, let's see here, so we use this part of the tool to kind of bend that diode, and then we run the gauge through, and we want the gauge to basically go through and have a little bit of drag. Then that will be fine. That's .050 which is only .004 off which is perfectly acceptable. Again, I have a spark plug wrench. My wrench is a little worn out so what I'm going to do is wrap paper towel around it, stuff it into the wrench, make sure none of that paper towel was down near the threads or anything so that it sticks in there.
Now I'm going to put it down in and I'm just going to kind of lightly turn it and it goes in. When you're turning this in, it should offer some resistance, but it shouldn't be hard. If it's hard to turn you may be cross threading although it's a little hard to cross thread these plugs. Then these should be tightened to about 18 to 20 foot pounds, which is just kind of tight with the wrench like that. This happens to me a lot. I've removed a bolt, but it twisted in the socket so it's now stuck. So what I do, I take a screwdriver or something that fits right up in there, let's see here, and then I just drop it and basically that usually almost always gets the bolt from the socket. Just make sure you watch where it goes. Put is right down in. Press it in. Your 7 mm bolt. Reconnect your lead and you're all set. Just repeat that for the other seven cylinders. Then reconnect your battery and you're engine should be purring like a kitten.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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