2009 Volvo S60 L5 2.5L 5 Piece G-Power Spark Plug Set NGK NGETK00062

Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Hi, everyone. Sue here at 1A Auto, and today we're going to show you how to change your spark plugs in a 2.4 liter on a '03 Volvo V70. If you need any parts for your car, click on the link below, and head on over to 1AAuto.com.

I'm going to start by removing the engine cover, and that's a T30 on all these Torx bolts. I've taken the liberty of removing all of them already because that's just ... It can be tedious. I'm just going to go around and take the rest of them out, and now this cover will come right up.

Take the oil fill cap off. I'm going to replace that right away. Now to take this cover off, there's two clips on the timing cover area. We'll pull back on those clips, push up. Now we have exposed all coils and cylinders in the spark plug area. We're going to start with, as you can see this is one, two, three, four, five cylinder, and all of them look identical. So, I'll take one coil out and the spark plug, and show you how to do one, and it stands for the rest.

Each coil is held down with a bolt that has a 10 millimeter socket head on it. So, we're going to break that free. Take that right out. Now you can lift the coil up. Sometimes you might have to wiggle it back and forth. That's the ignition coil, and this is the tab. We're going to push down on this tab. See how it releases right there? You might have to take a small screwdriver. Then we pull it out, and there's your coil.

The spark plug is located down that tube cylinder, and that's going to be a 5/8 spark plug socket. That is the spark plug they chose to put in this car, whoever did it last. I'm choosing to put in a iridium spark plug for this model, and on iridiums, you're not supposed to gap them. They say the metal in the design of it should not have anything touch it. So, you don't want to put a gap around there. You could damage it and it won't fire.

They're all supposed to be pre-gapped. What I do, accidents happen in factories, so I just line them all up and I do a good visual and make sure that one of them is not closed or gapped too big. They're all identical by the sight, so I'm going to install them. I like to definitely hand tighten first, thread it down. Once it reaches the bottom in that compression gasket on the spark plug, then I'll tighten it about an extra half turn. Initially, I'll bottom it out, feel it bottom, and then I'll just give it a quarter turn.

We'll just place it over the cylinder, find the spark plug head, and push it down on. These came pre-silicone. The ends have silicone on them. Now I'm going to line up my connector before I bolt it down. That way I know it's straight on and it clicks. Now I'm going to take the mounting bolt. Start it by hand. Now I'm just going to tighten, snug that down. Perfect.

Now you just follow the same procedure to do the other four cylinders and you're ready to go. Just line up the two tabs. You'll hear them snap down in, and then take that oil filler cap off. See how it guides into those teeth? Slide it down. Now we have the eight bolts to put back. I'll just put them all in by hand. I'll take my T30 Torx bit, then I'm just going to tighten all the cover bolts down. Tighten down the last one. I'm just bottoming them out and just giving it a nice little tight.

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