Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this helps, the video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2000 Buick LeSabre, pretty much the same as any 2000, 2005 Buick LeSabre and obviously we sell new hubs at 1AAuto.com.Tools you'll need are Jack and Jack stands, 34, 19, 15 and 13mm Sockets. You'll need Ratchets and Extensions and you'll also need a Breaker Bar and possibly a Pipe for some extra leverage on some of those bolts and a large Flat Blade Screwdriver, a Hammer and Torque Wrench. On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to use a 34mm Socket and a big Breaker Bar, probably the pipe. With your vehicle on the ground, loosen up this center knot. Loosen up here first. You want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm Socket with an Impact Wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire, and then just turn the suspension so that I can get a good look at the brakes. To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm Socket with a Ratchet and this should come apart with some force but it should come apart very easy.
I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually, the items that the calipers slide on as well so I'll show a little close up to you. These are slides taken apart. You want to note their condition. This probably should be just clean up and put a little grease on to them. I'll speed it up here again as I just remove, finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. With a large screwdriver, put it right in here and pry out and that actually forces the piston back into that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You could see, I use a screwdriver pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens up so I can get the caliper up and off and then I just hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Now, your brake pads very easily. Just pry out. Remove these two bolts here. I needed my Socket again and a Ratchet. Use a Breaker Bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start to get them loose. I'll fast forward here as I use the Ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both the bolts out. Now, your rotor comes right off. Here, I'm applying some penetrating oil to the center hub knot as well as the three knots that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. Here, I'm removing that nut with an Impact Wrench.
Again, if you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen up this knot when your tire is still on and the vehicle is on the ground. You want to make sure that your axle is free from your hub. You're going to give a one good hit with a hammer. You don't want to be on it continuously with a hammer because you could damage your CV joints but one good hit and just watch the axle in relation to the hub, if it moves then your axle is free and is no problem. Just give it a good wrap and just watch. Like I said, the axle in relation to the hub and it moved so it's nice and free. I can actually move it just with my thumb. Now, three bolts hold the hub to the steering knuckle. You could see one down there and one up in there. Generally, you want to use 3/8s drive tools because they're a little narrower and they can get in here better. There's the bolt here, there's one down here and then over on the other side, there is a bolt right down in here. This is your ABS lead, you want to use a screwdriver, pry this clip away. Pull that off and then just push up on this clip here and disconnect it. I'm going to fast forward here as I take and loosen up those three bolts and you should be able to get them with a good sized 3/8s Ratchet. You want to just keep applying even pressure. Don't jerk the wrench or anything. Apply even pressure and they'll come loose and what I'm doing is actually turning the steering knuckle back and forth so I can easily get to all three of the bolts. Once you get up to this point, you need to push. I've got pushing it with my thumb on the axle and then pulling the center wire out. You want to take this off and put right there.
New hub available on 1AAuto.com, you want to put in there. You want the sensor kind of towards the rear towards where it goes in and this goes on so that this tab is in this position over here. Put it on and again, just reach through with your thumb, push on the axle so that you could push your sensor connector through. Pull that connector through this bracket up and on. I'm going to get that up on here. Pull this connector; pull this back and in there. Kind of a matter is getting the grooves all lined up and in. Tug on your ABS sensor a little bit, make sure it's through cleanly. Push that on, the bolt. These ones' the easiest lugs that put it through and start it into the hub. I'm going to speed it up again as I start all three bolts in. You want to make sure you start them all in first, then usually tighten up the rear one until it snug and then you tighten up the other two until they're snug. The last step of tightening is to torque them. Make sure the leads through correctly. Put right on to that bracket and then plug it in. I'm going tighten these bolts to 60 foot pounds, starting with this rear one. I'm going to reinstall this hub knot just preliminarily. Rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide.
This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle and that bolt goes to the steering knuckle first, then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Now, start my upper one. I'll speed it up here as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now, we'll torque these to 80 foot pounds. Put it down and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit. Put your caliper down on, make that those aren't bunched up. Here are my sides, I cleaned them up, put a little light coated grease on them. That's a little one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little bit of grease on the inside, on the outside of it. Put our brake pads back, it just kind of slides right in, the support one. Now, push down in a little bit diagonally. Top one back in first, start it a little bit and our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those bolts. I'll torque these for about 50 foot pounds. Again, apologize for the low volume, 50 foot pounds is what you want to torque those to. Okay, speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just start the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with the Impact Wrench. Now, you want to torque the center nut to a 118 foot pounds. Torque your lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds using a start pattern. Okay, and we'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts. Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from five and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front axle on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, a 19mm, 21mm, and 35mm socket and ratchet, a pry bar, a drip pan, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and a hammer.
Start off by just loosening up these lug nut caps. Then just pull your hubcap free. Now, you want to loosen up this 35mm hub nut. You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to help break it free. You want to do this while the vehicle's on the ground. Then we're just going to use air-powered tools to get it off the rest of the way. You don't want to remove it entirely, though. You want to just keep it just a few threads on still. Just like that. Now you can remove your lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen these up while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. If you do have air-powered tools, you can just remove them right here. Now you can just pull your wheel off.
Remove that hub nut, and then just hit in the axle with a hammer. Then remove these two 21mm bolts at the bottom of your strut. You can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast-forward as he removes those the rest of the way. Now just hammer the bolts out. Then pry from the back of the axle using a pry bar and your hammer. You do want to make sure you have a drip pan underneath it, because it will leak. Then hammer again on the axle to loosen it up. Then pull the wheel knuckle forward, pull your axle free, and then tuck it off to the side.
After you do that, just start hitting the axle out of the wheel knuckle with a hammer. Now you can angle the axle up and out. Up front is the old axle; behind it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your new axle into place and tuck the back end of it back into that corner, so that you can angle the front down into the wheel knuckle. Then just push the wheel knuckle back onto the axle, and then feed the other end of the axle back into place. You kind of shake the axle up and down and turn it a little bit until it goes into the transmission.
Now push your wheel knuckle back into the strut and replace those two bolts. Twist the nuts back into place, and then tighten them up. Then torque both of these bolts to 130 foot-pounds. Replace your hub nut. Then replace your wheel and each of the lug nuts. You want to just tighten them preliminarily, and then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Then tighten up the hub nut. Now torque the hub nut to 159 foot pounds. Then torque these lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap and tighten up those lug nut caps. Then you're all set.
Now start your car to warm up the transmission. Pull out the dip stick, wipe it clean, replace it, and pull it out again to check it. You can see we're a little low, so we're just going to replace the amount we need, and then replace our dip stick. It's a good idea to check it one more time.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money maintaining and repairing your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly: That's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
Okay, this is part two of a two-part video, installing the hub in this '98 Grand Prix, and again, this hub fits all kinds of different GM vehicles, Buick, Cadillac, Pontiac, Chevy, Olds, everything from transport minivans to Cadillac Eldorado. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 millimeters up to 19 millimeters plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 millimeters, and then the rest of the stuff, and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
Okay, so here's our new hub from 1AAuto, okay. Not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kind of use your imagination here you can see that this is all the same. It's going to bolt up the same, and when I put it in there it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise. Okay, so one thing I do prior to installation is put just a little bit of anti-seize on my bolts. Okay, if you just use some kind of penetrator, whatever, it just helps. Most likely this car won't outlast the new hub, so the next person, if anybody else has to take it apart, they'll be able to get it apart easy. If not, then I just sleep better knowing that I did it right.
Okay, so I'm ready to put my hub back on. Notice I put my three bolts kind of back in place, because as I slide the hub in, I'm just going to start them. Want to make sure we put this in, and I'm going to hang it up here with the middle one. Okay, and then the hub, okay, this piece you want down at the bottom. Okay, so put it, kind of barely start on here, and basically stick your I stick my thumb through, push the axle some. Push my connector through. Push the hub on some more. Kay, make sure my oops. Make sure my harnesses come through okay. It's not stuck on anything. Okay. Now, it'll be easiest to start one of these bolts down here. Start it with your fingers.
On the other side, push the hub in, start the bolt with your fingers. Okay, and now I'm just going to swivel the steering back and forth, and tighten up those bolts. Then I'll slow down the motion when I'm torquing them. Okay, now I'm ready to torque, I'm going to set my torque wrench at 65 foot pounds. I've got these kind of tightened up fairly evenly, so I'm just going to torque them one time.
Okay, so now that's parallel, so I'm going to put that, start that back in. Now, if you are working with hand tools, you can put the brakes back together, put it on with a wrench. I'm going to use an impact wrench to protect my hand. I'm going to tighten up. But I'm going to use a torque wrench as well. On, use an impact wrench. Again, you can wait and do this, if you have only hand tools, you can put your disc back on, put your brakes back on, have the assistant hold the brake pedal for you if you do this by hand, but I'm going to use a torque wrench. I'm just going to tighten it up. I'm not going to tighten it up all the way with a torque wrench. I'll tighten it until the torque wrench sounds like it's starting to work hard.
Kay, put my disc on, and I'm actually just going to put a lug nut on just to hold it in place when, while I put the caliper on. We'll cut this down. Kay, now that I have the caliper on here, I'm just starting to bolt the caliper in. I'm just tightening it up some with the impact wrench. Just to get them started. Okay. Then I've got my impact wrench set at 75 foot pounds. Okay. Take the lug nut off. Okay, just going to reach back in here, okay. I'm going to clip my harness back onto the bracket. Plug in my ABS harness.
Okay, so, as I found out when I put the wheel on to put the car down, because that's usually how I do this, but the socket was too big to get inside the wheel. I have a person in the car holding the brake down, and now I'm going to torque it, okay. First I'm going to go to 90 pounds, and then further, and now I'm going to back off. Okay, and then go to 90 again. Kay. Okay, now you can put your wheel on. I just start the lug nuts. I tighten them a little bit with the impact wrench. I don't tighten them all the way, because you want to lower the car down, and then you want to use a torque wrench. Torque them to 75 foot pounds, and then reinstall your little lug caps. When you reinstall those lug caps, just do it by hand, and then you're all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
