Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working on our 2011 Chevy Camaro. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front lower forward control arm. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Using a 22 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, we'll loosen all of our lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle. We're doing this on the lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this can easily been done at home on a jack and jack stands. With the tire off the ground, go ahead and finish removing your lug nuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
This is the passenger side forward lower control arm. To remove this, we'll start by loosening this 21 mm nut. We'll use a breaker bar to start it, then a socket and ratchet to finish removing it. For now, we're just going to leave that flush with the end of the bolt.
There are a few different ways to remove the ball joint. You could use a ball joint separating fork or pickle fork, which tends to destroy the boot. If you're removing this and intending to reuse it, you'll want to either hit the side of the control arm here to shock it loose and pop the ball joint out, or since we set the nut flush with the end of the bolt, we can hit the end here and not worry about damaging our threads or mushrooming the head of our bolt.
On the subframe side, we'll use a 21 mm wrench to secure the nut on the lower control arm bushing, and a 21 mm socket and a breaker bar on the front to loosen it. Once we get it loose, we'll finish removing that with a ratchet. Hold the control arm, remove the bolt, remove your control arm from the vehicle.
Here we have our old front lower forward control arm that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. We have a nice new bushing in here, the same body of the control arm, and the ball joint which is actually one piece with this. The ball joints on this vehicle cannot be changed separately. They are a part of the arm. Your two major fail points that you're going to have on these are the rubber bushings which you can see are starting to separate just a little on the back here. This isn't awful. The ball joint itself can go bad and create some unnecessary or unwanted up and down play as well as a lot of alignment issues, as can the bushing. These parts are exactly the same. Our new one from 1A Auto are going to go in direct fit just like our original equipment. Whether we have a bad bushing or a bad ball joint this part is going to fix us up right.
Reinstall the control arm. You'll want to line up the bushing first and send that bolt through. It may take a little bit of wiggling to get that to line up. We'll then line up the ball joint. Pull that through and start the new nut onto there. Tighten that down with a 21 mm socket and ratchet. If you hold it toward you to keep that tapered fit into the control arm, you should be able to tighten down without the stud spinning. Ours is turning a little bit, so we'll hold the stud with our 10 mm wrench and tighten the nut with our 21 mm. Some people will use a 10 mm socket and ratchet or 10 mm socket and an impact tool to spin this counterclockwise while holding the nut. I don't recommend doing that because you're just putting unnecessary strain and wear on the ball and socket joint by rotating it. It's probably not going to destroy it the first time, but for a few extra minutes of work here, we're really going to help the longevity of our new part. Torque the ball joint nut to 30 foot pounds. We'll now use an angle finder to add 90 degrees to this torque. Now 90 degrees is something that you can eyeball fairly easily, but for the most precise tension, be sure to use an angle gauge.
We'll get the 21 mm nut started on the backside. Hold that with our wrench and then tighten this bolt down. But we are not going to tighten it up all the way. We're just going to get it close, and then we'll load up our suspension to ride height and torque it at that point.
We're going to use a screw jack because our vehicle's on a lift, but you could do this same process using a floor jack at home. We're just going to compress the vehicle suspension by lifting up on the bottom of the hub simulating weight of the vehicle on the wheel. Once we're at that ride height position, we can torque our bolt and not preload the bushing. Torque the bolt first to 37 foot pounds. We'll then set up our torque angle finder and torque to 120 degrees. You can now remove the load from your suspension.
Reinstall your wheel and tire, and get all five of your lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. You may also use a 22 millimeter socket to help you spin these in. Lower your vehicle back onto its wheels. You can now torque your lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2011 Chevy Camaro. We're going to show you how to replace the front, lower, rearward control arm. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this, and many other vehicles. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Using a 22 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, we'll loosen all of our lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle. We're doing this on the lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this can easily been done at home on a jack and jack stands. With the tire off the ground, go ahead and finish removing your lug nuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
Your rearward, front, lower control arm is here. We'll start by removing the 21 millimeter nut with a 21 millimeter socket and a long ratchet. You could also use a breaker bar. Now, if the stud is turning inside of the spindle, you can hold the stud with a 10 millimeter wrench, and use a 21 millimeter wrench to loosen the nut. However, they're usually stuck in there pretty good, so we're just going to keep going with our ratchet.
Now, there are a few ways to remove this ball joint. I like to hit the side of the spindle to free it up. You don't want to go too hard on an aluminum spindle because you risk cracking it, but usually you can get it out with a couple of good swings. You can also install the nut a few threads so it sits flush with the top of the bolt, and then hit it down and out. Or, you can use a pickle fork or ball joint separator between the boot and the bottom of the spindle, but that destroys it and makes this part non-reusable. So we're going to hit the side of the spindle to free it up.
We'll hold the backside of the nut with a 21 millimeter wrench and break the other side loose with a 21 millimeter socket. I'm just going to start off with a breaker bar, because these are usually pretty tight. Once we get it loosened up, we'll switch over to our ratchet. We'll now remove the bolt and our control arm from the vehicle.
Here we have our old front, rearward, lower control arm that we removed from our vehicle, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. Our new one comes with the new nut, and it is greaseable, which is a great feature to have for the longevity and serviceability of a part. Your two major fail points here are going to be the bushing, which will wear out and break down, and it can get squeaky or loose and create the front end to feel loose or inaccurate. You may also get some clunking or vibration from that, as well as the ball joint, which is a piece of the control arm. This cannot be changed out separately like some ball joints can. The bad ball joint is going to create unwanted up and down travel in our suspension, or unwanted up and down play, which can create some clunking noises, as well as alignment issues, some odd tire wear, and some handling problems. If either of these things have gone bad on your old part, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment. Get our vehicle tracking straight and riding smooth and fix you up right.
We'll line up our new lower control arm. I'm going to start by setting the ball joint side in and just getting a few threads on that nut to hold it in place. We'll then line up the bolt in the rear, send that through, and start that nut on. We'll try to tighten this down with our 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, but often times, with a new arm, once it gets a little tight, it's going to start spinning that stud, and you'll need to counter-hold it with a 10 millimeter while you turn the nut with a 21. It looks like we actually got lucky here, and we're able to tighten it down without the need to counter-hold anything. I'm just going to get that snug for now. If you do need to counter-hold this, it's just the same as the old part where a 10 millimeter would sit right around here.
We'll torque this first to 30 foot-pounds. We'll then use a torque angle finder to add another 90 degrees. We'll now use a screw jack to load up our suspension and simulate the weight of the vehicle on the wheels so we can torque our control arm without pre-loading the bushing incorrectly and causing premature wear and failure. If you're doing this on jack stands, you can do this same thing using a floor jack. We'll now use a 21 millimeter socket, ratchet, and wrench just to get this close. We're not going to torque it down just yet. We'll then torque it to 37 foot-pounds. We'll then add 120 degrees using our torque angle finder. Once that's done, you can remove the weight from the vehicle.
Reinstall your wheel and tire, and get all five of your lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. You may also use a 22 millimeter socket to help you spin these in. Lower your vehicle back onto its wheels. You can now torque your lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
