Replaces
Semi-Metallic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$134.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$142.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Wheel Bearings
$238.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$249.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$254.95
Semi-Metallic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$259.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$284.95
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAtuo. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly. That's' going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to show you how remove and replace the front brakes on this 2004 Trailblazer, same as any '02-'09 Trailblazer, as well as the other GM SUVs Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 97X, and Isuzu Ascender. The extended vehicles have a little bit different brakes, but the procedure is basically the same. Tools you'll need for this job are 13, 18, and 19mm sockets or wrenches, a breaker bar or pipe if you need some extra leverage. On this vehicle actually I actually didn't even need either one of those, but maybe you do if your vehicle is a little stubborn coming apart, a flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large C-clamp, and a torque wrench. You're going to start by prying your cap off. That's your 19mm. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts, and then raise it. Support it with jack stands, and then remove the wheel and tire. And I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts, and then removing the wheel and tire. Now either pull, or using the steering wheel turn your wheel so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now we can check the condition of the brakes.
When I spin this you'll see the rotor move. Okay, so then right to the right there is actually your pad. And you can see there's not that much life left and not a whole lot on the outside either. So, we're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here, and a bolt down here. And then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is 2 large bolts-18mm one here, and one up here. Okay the bolts go in the caliper relatively easy, 13mm. Use a small wrench. And we'll just speed it up here as I remove those 2 bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off, and we'll set it over here. Okay, these are 18mm bolts. For the caliper bracket you're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay, they actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this-you just have a ratchet-you can put a piece of pipe on. Kind of gives you extra leverage. And pull nice and easy on the pipe until they come loose. Or take it all the way off. You can take your pads off. Use a screwdriver. It should pretty easily pry out. Okay, you can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear indicator, and it's actually just about at the end of it's life.
And we'll fast forward again as we remove those 2 18mm bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, once that comes off then your disc should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded bolts. And you can use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there, and the bolts press against the hub to push them out. Okay, and these rotors-pretty crusty looking-so I am going to replace them. Your disc from 1A Auto goes right on. You want to make sure you don't put these holes where this is, because what those holes are meant to do is if this were stuck, you would use bolts to push it off. Now I can just put a lug nut on just to hold the rotor in place. Okay, before we put our bracket on, just use a wire brush and clean out these stainless steel slides a little bit. Okay, make sure that these slides are nice and free, which they are on this. And put this on. Put the bolt through the steering knuckle first and into the bracket. Torque these to 90 foot-pounds as well. Nice new set of brake pads go right in. Now you want to force these 2 pistons back down into the caliper. So I just put my old brake shoe right in there. Okay and slowly force them back in with a C-clamp. Okay, use some break parts cleaner or mineral spirits. Just get off any dirt that may be on there. Now take a caliper and pull those. Slide it out a little bit, pull it down. Okay, these two bolts, 25 foot-pounds. Okay, fast forward here as I remove that lug nut that I used to hold the disc in place. I put the tire back on. Start all the lug nuts by hand first, and then I'll tighten them up preliminarily with my wrench and torque them when it's back on the ground. And with the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120 foot pounds, kind of just using just a crossing pattern. Very important, after doing break work, always pump your brakes many times. And then before you do a road test make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear, and then do a stop from 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour before hitting the brakes.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com , your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. The items you'll need for this are a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; 17mm, 18mm and 19mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; 18mm wrench; flat blade screwdriver; torque wrench; hammer; jack and jack stands; large C-clamp; brake grease and brake cleaner.
Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then remove these lug nuts and if you don't have air powered tools, you're going to want to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. Once they're removed, your wheel can pull right off.
If you're looking to check the condition of your brakes, you want to run your fingernail up and down the rotor to make sure there are no deep grooves. These rotors should be turned down at least because they're pretty rough from some corrosion. Then, brake pads have a wear mark in them. You can see right here on this brake pad. If you look right down in here, you'll see right there there's a tiny little hole and that hole is basically what you can see of what's left of that wear mark, which means that these pads have a little bit of life left on them but we're going to change them out anyways to show you.
Now, you want to remove these two 17mm bolts. You can see Mike's using a 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the inside. It'll just make it easier to remove that bolt. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper. Then, you can just set that aside. Now, pry out your brake pads. Then, just pull off these slides.
Now, you want to remove these two 18mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does that and you can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to help break those bolts free. Once those are removed, the bracket will pull right off and if your rotor doesn't slide right off, then you may just want to tap it with a hammer, and just keep turning it and hitting it with a hammer until it pulls free. However, there is something else you can do to break it free as well. Alright, so if you have trouble getting the rotor off, it actually has press holes. You would get a bolt that's the proper size. I believe this an M12 bolt. You use two bolts, thread them into those holes and as you tighten them up, they press against the hub and push the rotor off. You can do that or just keep going with the big hammer. I'm not worried about it because I'm replacing the rotor anyway. You can see I've put a lug nut on; this is just to keep the rotor from flying off when you're hitting it with the hammer.
On the left, are the old brake pads and rotor; on the right, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new rotor and you want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub and then you just slide your rotor back into place. Replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure that they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then, fit the bracket into place. Then just twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Now, torque these bolts to 110 foot-pounds.
Using a wire brush, just clean up these brake pad slides. Then just clip it back into place. Do the same thing with the other one. Now, wipe down your rotor with some brake cleaner or mineral spirits. Take your new brake pads, remove the clips from your old brake pads and just clip them into place on the new ones. Then, apply some brake grease to the tabs on either end of the brake pads. Then, just push the brake pad into place. Repeat the process with the other pad. Take your caliper and a large C-clamp and one of your old brake pads and just put the old brake pad in front of those two pistons on the caliper. Then take your large C-clamp, set it up in between the two pistons on that brake pad, and just twist the brake pad in until it pushes those two pistons all the way in. Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now, torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds.
We'll fast forward here as Mike replaces the wheel and then the lug nuts and tightens them up preliminarily, lowers the vehicle, and tightens them up the rest of the way. You want to torque each of these lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Obviously you'd repeat this for the other side as well. Always replace your brakes in pairs.
After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
