2004 Isuzu Ascender with 113 in. Wheel Base Front Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA10778

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAtuo. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly. That's' going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.

In this video we are going to show you how remove and replace the front brakes on this 2004 Trailblazer, same as any '02-'09 Trailblazer, as well as the other GM SUVs Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 97X, and Isuzu Ascender. The extended vehicles have a little bit different brakes, but the procedure is basically the same. Tools you'll need for this job are 13, 18, and 19mm sockets or wrenches, a breaker bar or pipe if you need some extra leverage. On this vehicle actually I actually didn't even need either one of those, but maybe you do if your vehicle is a little stubborn coming apart, a flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large C-clamp, and a torque wrench. You're going to start by prying your cap off. That's your 19mm. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts, and then raise it. Support it with jack stands, and then remove the wheel and tire. And I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts, and then removing the wheel and tire. Now either pull, or using the steering wheel turn your wheel so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now we can check the condition of the brakes.

When I spin this you'll see the rotor move. Okay, so then right to the right there is actually your pad. And you can see there's not that much life left and not a whole lot on the outside either. So, we're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here, and a bolt down here. And then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is 2 large bolts-18mm one here, and one up here. Okay the bolts go in the caliper relatively easy, 13mm. Use a small wrench. And we'll just speed it up here as I remove those 2 bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off, and we'll set it over here. Okay, these are 18mm bolts. For the caliper bracket you're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay, they actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this-you just have a ratchet-you can put a piece of pipe on. Kind of gives you extra leverage. And pull nice and easy on the pipe until they come loose. Or take it all the way off. You can take your pads off. Use a screwdriver. It should pretty easily pry out. Okay, you can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear indicator, and it's actually just about at the end of it's life.

And we'll fast forward again as we remove those 2 18mm bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, once that comes off then your disc should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded bolts. And you can use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there, and the bolts press against the hub to push them out. Okay, and these rotors-pretty crusty looking-so I am going to replace them. Your disc from 1A Auto goes right on. You want to make sure you don't put these holes where this is, because what those holes are meant to do is if this were stuck, you would use bolts to push it off. Now I can just put a lug nut on just to hold the rotor in place. Okay, before we put our bracket on, just use a wire brush and clean out these stainless steel slides a little bit. Okay, make sure that these slides are nice and free, which they are on this. And put this on. Put the bolt through the steering knuckle first and into the bracket. Torque these to 90 foot-pounds as well. Nice new set of brake pads go right in. Now you want to force these 2 pistons back down into the caliper. So I just put my old brake shoe right in there. Okay and slowly force them back in with a C-clamp. Okay, use some break parts cleaner or mineral spirits. Just get off any dirt that may be on there. Now take a caliper and pull those. Slide it out a little bit, pull it down. Okay, these two bolts, 25 foot-pounds. Okay, fast forward here as I remove that lug nut that I used to hold the disc in place. I put the tire back on. Start all the lug nuts by hand first, and then I'll tighten them up preliminarily with my wrench and torque them when it's back on the ground. And with the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120 foot pounds, kind of just using just a crossing pattern. Very important, after doing break work, always pump your brakes many times. And then before you do a road test make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear, and then do a stop from 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour before hitting the brakes.

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