Replaces
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New
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Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
With the vehicle on the ground, I'm going to use a breaker bar and a 22 millimeter socket to loosen the lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle with a jack and jack stands. We're using our two-post lift. Use the socket to finish removing the lug nuts. Take a couple of lug nuts and just thread them on lightly. Use a dead blow or a rubber mallet, hit on the tire. It'll knock it free. The lug nuts will keep the wheel from falling off. Now it's loose. See. Finish taking the lug nuts off. It's going to support it so doesn't fall.
Let me grab the hub and knuckle and just turn it out this way so it's a little easier to see what I'm doing. Take a large flat bladed screwdriver and kind of wedge it in here. We're going to pull the brake caliper out and press the pistons. This way when I go to remove the caliper slide bolts, the caliper will come off the pistons easier.
There's 13 millimeter bolts on the bottom and the top, going to remove these using a 13 millimeter box wrench and break them free. Put these bolts aside to reuse them. Slide the caliper off. Just rest it like that. Grab a bungee cord. That gets it right there. I just don't want it to hang on this rubber hose. You can damage it.
Our brake pads, pretty well worn, just kind of slide them out of the hardware. If they don't want to come out that easily, you can just use the flat blade screwdriver to pop them out. I'm not worried about damaging the surface of them because I'm going to replace them. We need to remove the bottom and top caliper mounting bolts. They are 21 millimeter. I'm using a large ratchet to break them free. Before I take that one all the way out, break this one free. I'll hold on the bracket, take the bolt out, and pull the whole bracket out.
You need to remove the screw that's holding the rotor to the hub. It's a T-30 Torx bit. Pull that out. Reuse it. See if this comes free. Nope, rusted there. Let's spray some rust penetrant in here, a little bit in here, and try to work it down between the rotor and the hub. It can go around the wheel studs. Thread on the lug nut. I don't want the rotor to fall, but not all the way. I want to have it so it has some space to move, and I'll take a dead blow and just knock the rotor. It might take one hit, could take a bunch of hits. You just got to do it till it comes free. We're replacing these rotors, so I'm not too worried about damaging them.
Here's our original pad rotors from our vehicle and our brand new ones from 1aauto.com. They're an exact match for the originals. You can see how worn out these are compared to the new ones. They've got the same wear indicator in them, same bolt pattern, and same screw hole opening. These will fit great and work great on our vehicle. Then clean and reuse our caliper hardware, it's stainless and just needs to be cleaned up.
Use some brake parts cleaner, a wire brush, and a rag. You can also check your slide pins to make sure they're operating. They should pull out with some resistance but move in and out nice and smoothly. These ones do. We're going to leave them alone. No need to take them out and grease them. Just take some brake parts cleaner. Spray it down. Use a wire brush. Then also clean it down with a rag. Do the same for both sides. We could reuse our caliper mounting bolts. We just need to clean off the old thread locker, so I'm going to use some brake parts cleaner. Spray it down, and the wire brush, clean up both of them. Just make sure you get it all off of there.
If you have access to it, you can use a 14 by two thread dye. And we'll thread this in here and we'll clean the threads out. But the other method, you can just use a wire brush. That should thread in pretty easily. You may need to put a sock on it, but it will clean all the junk out of the threads. That's our old thread locker out of there. You can see it's all in the dye now. Put the rotor on backwards. Clean down the oil that they're packed in so they don't flash rust. Use brake parts cleaner. Wipe off any excess from the rag. Put the rotor over.
If your hub was extremely rusty, now it would be the time to clean it. Take a wire brush and clean this all off. This one's in good shape. I'm going to leave it alone. Now I'll line up the threaded hole here with the opening in the rotor. That's for the retention screw. That right in place. Install the screw. Just tighten it down. It's not a lot of torque. It's just to hold the rotor in place while you work. Then clean out the front of the rotor.
Same thing, it's packaged with the oil to prevent it from flash rusting. Before I reinstall the bracket, I'm going to take some medium strength threadlocker and apply it to the threads of the caliper bracket bolts. Do this to both of them. Reinstall the bracket. Get it lined up. I'm going to get the top one caught first. I may need to move the bracket around, thread it in my hand. We can use a socket to tighten it down. Then torque the caliper bracket bolts to 129 foot-pounds. When it clicks, you've reached the correct torque.
Make sure that the brake pad surface is nice and clean, has no grease or dirt on it. Just going to give it a light spray with some brake parts cleaner, don't need to soak it. Apply some brake caliper grease to the ears. The brake pad with the wear indicator will go on the inside. The outside curve will match the outside curve of the rotor. Switch hands here. I'm going to slide it right into the clips. Just pull them into place. Do the same thing for the other pad.
I'm using a large C-clamp and an old brake pad. We need to compress the two pistons back into the caliper. You don't need to crack the bleeder screw. We don't need to remove the brake line. You may have some fluid come out at the master cylinder because if there's too much fluid in the system, it has come down to fill up the extra space that is left by having these pistons this far out and these pads worn down.
You may have to go up and take some out of the master cylinder, or you'll have some spill out and you'll just have to clean it up. We're going to compress this in, just turn. I've taken it off of the bungee cord. I'm just going to gently turn this in. Little by little these pistons will start to retract. The reasons why we have to compress these pistons because these new pads are a lot thicker and you won't be able to get the caliper back on if the pistons are all the way out.
You can also see these are going in nice and easy. That tells me the caliper's in good shape and the pistons aren't seized. The pad is starting to get down. I can see the seals are starting to squish out. That's about as far as I need to go. I don't need to go all the way in, so I'm going to remove this. Put that aside and clamp out of here. Don't forget your bungee cord that's hanging on the suspension. Get rid of that.
The caliper can go back on to the bracket. The slide pins do have a flat spot. It's going to match the flat spot on the calipers. You need to turn them, both the top and the bottom. Don't look so good. That will sit in place. Reinstall the bolts. Torque the caliper slide pin bolts to 47 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, it's exactly where it needs to be. You don't need to go any further.
Start the lug nuts by hand. I'm going to use the socket, thread these down, re-torque them. Put the vehicle on the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a cross pattern to 140 foot-pounds. Before you start, move the vehicle. Gently press on the brake pedal. This will bring the caliper, the cylinders out that we've compressed to meet the pads, and you'll feel it start to build up pressure. You don't need to smash it to the floor. Just gently pump it until it builds up pressure, just like that.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a breaker bar and a 22 millimeter socket to loosen the lug nuts of the vehicle on the ground. Just go around and loosen them all. Raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two post lift. You can use a jack and jack stands. We'll use a socket to finish removing the lug nuts. Take the wheel and tire off.
Wheel and tire is stuck to the brake rotor. I'll put a lug nut on it and put a second one on the opposite side here just lightly. Take a dead blow. We’ll just break it free. Might take a couple hits, might take one hit. Lug nuts keep it from falling off. Let's put the wheel and tire aside. I'm going to use a large flat-bladed screwdriver. Wedge it in here and then push against the caliper to compress the piston in slightly. Just pull it slowly, this way when I loosen the caliper slide pin bolts the caliper will slide off without much resistance from the pads. Perfect. Got two 14 millimeter slide pin bolts here.
I'm going to use a 14 millimeter box wrench. Start with the bottom one, loosen it. If you need to, you can counterhold the pins here with a 17 millimeter wrench. Usually they come free but if you need to, you can do that. I'll hold on to the caliper while I remove the bottom one so it doesn't fall. Slide it up and off. We can just put this right here. Pull the old pads out of the caliper bracket, and just push them out. Same for both of them.
It needs a long ratchet and a 21 millimeter socket to remove the two caliper bracket bolts. Could also use a breaker bar and then a small ratchet once they're loose and we get them both broken free before I remove one. Once they're loose, I'll just take them out with my fingers. I'll hold on to the bracket so it doesn't fall. I'll take the bracket out.
I need to remove the T30 Torx screw that's holding the rotor to the hub, using a T30 Torx bit on an extension and a ratchet. These shouldn't be in there very tight, come right out. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant between the rotor and the hub and then some down the wheel studs. Parking brake assembly is inside of here and the rotor may be stuck on it. Sometimes these rotors will come right off. Put a lug nut on so the rotor doesn't fall off, and I'll tap it with a dead blow.
I'm going to use this flat bladed screwdriver. I'm going to pop this rubber plug out, and I need to look for the parking brake release mechanism. There's a star adjustment wheel in here that needs to be turned and it will collapse the brake shoes in for the parking brake. I'll pull them away from the rotor. A rust ridge can build up inside here making it difficult for the rotor to come off so we need to relax those parking brake shoes and bring them in.
All right, so we're going to go in and we're going to push this star wheel down. Feel it start to get looser. Then adjust it all the way out until it doesn't seem to want to adjust out anymore. Feels like it there. Seems pretty loose. I know it's not hanging up on the parking brake shoes, so it might be stuck around the hub. I'm going to hit the rotor some more with a mallet. Give it a couple good hits with your dead blow, the lug nut keeps the rotor from falling all the way off and you can remove the lug nut. Take the rotor off. This is what you're doing. You're turning this adjuster wheel down and it's pulling these brake shoes in releasing them from the rotor and then when you adjust it out it's threading this out and pushing them further against it. You'll have to reset the tension on this after we put the rotor on.
Here's our original pads and rotors from our vehicle and our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. Rotor has the same lug pattern, same screw opening to mount it to the wheel hub, and same opening to access the parking brake adjustment. The pads are identical in design. These ones weren't in bad shape but I want to show you how to change them anyways. Comes with new shims on there. These will fit great and work great for you.
I'll put the rotor on backwards. Take spray parts cleaner. I'm going to clean off the oil that the rotor is shipped in so it doesn't flash rust. Just wipe it down with a rag. I'm also going to spray the inside where the parking brake shoes ride. Flip it around. Line up the opening in the rotor for the screw with the opening in the hub. I'm going to reinstall the screw. Not a lot of torque on that, just so it's tight. That's perfect.
Clean the outside face of the rotor now using brake parts cleaner. Same thing, it has oil on it. It's shipped, so it doesn't flash rust, and we just want to get rid of that. I'm going to adjust the parking brake. So the inside of this rotor is a little thicker. Kind of hear it dragging a bit. I'm going to open it up, kind of do this just by feel. I might have a little bit of drag but not too much. This is just so that when you actually use the parking brake inside the car it grabs pretty early in the engagement. You don't have to go all the way to the full extension of the parking brake handle or if it's a foot pedal all the way to the floor. It feels good there. Don't forget to put the little rubber plug back in. It keeps debris out of there.
We can reuse the caliper hardware. It's stainless steel. It just needs to be cleaned with some brake parts cleaner, a wire brush, and a rag. Just scrub it and do the same for both sides. You could also check the caliper slide pins. They should move nice and freely. These are in good shape. I'm going to leave them alone. You also need to clean inside these threaded part of the caliper bracket.
Factory uses a thread locker, so you just want to clean it out use some brake parts cleaner. We could reuse our caliper mounting bolts. You just need to clean off the old thread locker. We're going to use some brake parts cleaner, spray it down, and the wire brush. Clean up both of them. Just make sure you get it all off of there. If you have access to it, you can use a 14 by two thread die, and we'll thread this in here. It'll clean the threads out.
But the other method, you can just use a wire brush. This should thread in pretty easily. You may need to put a socket on it but it will clean all of the junk out of the threads. That's clean all the way, old thread locker out of there. You can see it's all in the die now. Apply some medium thread locker to the bolts. Do this for both of them, install the caliper bracket. I'm going to torque these to 129 foot-pounds. It clicks, there's no need to go any more. Lightly spray the brake pads with some brake parts cleaner.
We don't want any dirt, oil, or grease in the brake pad material. You don't have to soak them, just give them a light spray. Little bit of caliper grease on the ears. This larger curve on the pad is going to match the curve in the rotor. Just slide them in place, push them into the clips. Just like that. Do the same for the outside pad. We've got our caliper here. When you compress this piston back into the caliper so that will fit over our new brake pads because they are thicker than the old ones because they wore out. I'm going to put this on here, the old brake pad. Take a large C Clamp. Shouldn't take much effort, we'll just push the piston back in there.
This one's not even that far out. That should be good there. Make sure that this line's not twisted up when you try to do it. Slide it right over the pads. Make sure it gets over the pins. Install the upper bolt, install the lower one. I'm going to use a 17 millimeter open ended wrench to counterhold the slide pin bolt and I will torque this bolt to 20 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. Going to lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Before you start and move the vehicle gently press on the brake pedal. This will bring the caliper, the cylinders out that we've compressed to meet the pads. You'll feel it start to build up pressure. You don't need to smash it to the floor. Just gently pump it till it builds up pressure. Just like that.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
