Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (1) Idler Arm (1) Pitman Arm (2) Front Inner Tie Rods (2) Front Upper Ball Joints (1) Front Center Link (1) Idler Arm Bracket Assembly (2) Front Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves
Specification
Drivetrain
4 Wheel Drive
Steering / Suspension Option
with Stamped Steel Lower Control Arms
Engine Displacement (Metric)
V8 5.7L
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Idler Arm Bracket Assembly 1995-2000 Chevy Tahoe
Created on:
Tools used
24mm Socket
Large C-Clamp
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Tie Rod Fork
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Grease Gun
Tie Rod Puller
Ratchet
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts.
Raise and secure the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.
2. Remove the front shield
Use a 15 mm socket and ratchet.
Remove the four bolts.
3. Remove the Idler Arm
Remove the 24 mm bolt securing the idler arm to the steering linkage
Use a joint fork and a hammer to separate the joint.
Remove the three other bolts securing the idler arm.
Use a Tie Rod Puller to pull apart the idler arm and the idler shaft.
4. Install the new idler arm
Assemble your new idler arm to your idler shaft, threading on the bushing and nut.
Bolt in the idler arm assembly into place, tightening up the three nuts.
Bolt in the end of the idler arm assembly to the steering gear.
Torque the nuts and bolts to 80 ft lbs.
Install the cotter pin.
Use a grease gun and fill the grease fitting.
5. Reassembly
Replace the shield with the four 15mm bolts.
Clip the air bag harness back in.
Put the wheel back on and lower the car
Using a star pattern torque the lug nuts to 120-140 ft lbs
Brought to you by 1A Auto. com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best source on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto dot com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to replace the idler arm on this '96 Tahoe. This is a full drive truck so it's the same as any '98, or '88 to '98 GM truck and '92 to 2000 SUV. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, joint fork and hammer, a tie rod or an idler arm puller, a torque wrench, telescoping magnet and an 18 millimeter wrench.
First, using a 19 millimeter wrench or your tire iron, remove your front. Using a 15 millimeter wrench, remove this front shield. Then, we're zooming in here and this is a 24 millimeter bolt that holds the idler arm on to the steering linkage. We're going to use a joint fork, we're just going to put that right in between the joint where the idler arm and the steering linkage is, zoom out here and then, just use a good-sized hammer and just force that fork right between the joint and separate that joint. The idler arm assembly is held on by three bolts. You can see the backside of them there. You get to them through the frame through access holes right there. You can see my wrench is through one and then the other two are right near them.
We'll speed up going through and removing those three bolts. Note have a telescoping magnet available for when you drop those bolts into the frame as I do a couple of times. What I'm doing here is pulling the idler assembly away from the frame, and at the same time with the other hand, pushing the idler arm up and away from the steering linkage, or actually pulling the steering linkage down. Eventually it comes loose enough and comes right out. This is a 24 millimeter. You want to use this puller and this is a rubber gasket here, pretty much just have to force it into your puller, pull that right off. My new one; right back into place.
The trouble you run into is when you try to put this back together, right back and these two go to the back when you try and put this back together, this is a lock nut and wind up turning the shaft. What I'm doing, I got a big old bolt from another project. I put that on there and what happens this will go in enough and when I hit that other nut, it'll start pressing this on to the shaft. Then, I can use the arm itself to pull the shaft. I put my lock nut back on. Using a magnet, I took out my other two bolts so I have that top one in. I'm going to use an extension and hold that bolt in place, assembly up in here and hang in on that bolt.
I will put the nut up on that bolt and then basically repeat the step for the two bolts, put them right in to my extension with my socket, feed them through. See the bolt come through, put it on to the assembly and put the nut back on and then same thing with the third one. Feed it through, see the back of my head and then, put the nut on. Before I tighten those up, I'll turn my attention over to the steering gear. Here I pull the steering gear down and on to the joint for the idler arm and then just put the nut on hand tight. Now we'll go back to tightening up those three bolts. You want to use torque wrench and tighten them up to 80-foot pounds. This 22 millimeters and tighten these up to 80-foot pounds as well. Just a little tighter so we can fit that cotter pin through.
We'll put a grease gun in there and make sure we hit that grease footing to get it properly lubed up. Put your shield back on real quick with the four 15-millimeter bolts. Over here, we're just going to put that little pin back into the harness that was holding our airbag sensor there. We'll speed up putting the tire back on. Put on the lug nuts, tighten them a little bit, then lower the car down and torque them to about a hundred twenty to a hundred forty foot-pounds and then put your cap back on.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the Internet and in person.
PSA64943
In Stock
Product Reviews
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3.00/ 5.02
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TRQ suspension parts are junk.
David
November 2, 2021
Honestly these parts were unsat, and I only used 2 of the 16 pieces as the rest were unfit to use, the quality wasnt even being close to what it should have been, ball joints were junk with no zerk fittings, nor were they the right size, you sent a extra nut to compensate for the height difference for the ball joint! Really? I have ordered several TRQ parts from you before and they have been fine. But unless you change the quality of your suspension parts you shouldnt sell them. So I went and bought MOOG suspension parts after trying to use this junk for my K1500, really think 1A should provide a partial refund for the items I didnt use which is pretty much all of them.
Good Partes
FERMIN
January 17, 2022
Very good parts
Customer Q&A
WHAT INDICATES STAMPED STEEL LOWER CONTROL ARMS?March 5, 2021
M P
10
Look at your current control arm. It will be obvious if it's a casting. Stamped should be clear as well. There will be a 'parting' line if cast.
March 5, 2021
ROBERT D
10
You will have to inspect your control arms. If they are bent metal with welds (hollow), they are welded. If they look like cast iron (solid), they are forged.
March 5, 2021
Cristina P
Customer service
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