Replaces
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$107.95
7 Piece Steering Kit
$112.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$114.95
9 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$122.95
12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$130.95
13 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$152.95
8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$164.95
8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$171.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$176.95
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1A Auto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-something years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
In this video I'm going to show you inner and outer tie rod replacement. This truck actually just needed the inner, but if you're replacing the inner, you might as well replace the outer as well. These tie rods fit this whole generation of GM trucks and SUV's - trucks from 98 - 06 and SUV's from 99 - 07.
The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a 22 mm lug wrench or socket and ratchet. You'll need either a 35 mm wrench or a 12 inch adjustable wrench that can go to 35 mm and then you'll need a second adjustable wrench as well, a tie rod removal tool, a grease gun, torque wrench, and pliers.
The clunking noise was the inner tie rod. You can see here, when I shake the tire back and forth you'll see the inner tie rod move but that steering arm inside doesn't move, so you know there's play in there and it needs to be replaced.
Start out by raising and securing the vehicle on a jack stand and then remove your cap and wheel. We're going to remove this bolt. We've got a ratchet. If you don't have a breaker bar, use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. The bolt should come off pretty easily. Take the bolts off most of the way. I'm planning on replacing the outer tie rod as well, so I'm going to use a pickle fork to separate it. The best way to go about this is to get the wrench on it from underneath and push. That should break her free. I'm just going to speed up as I pull that out. You want to make sure that your outer tie rod spins with the wrench so the whole assembly spins and you don't shorten or lengthen the tie rod -- the inner and outer tie rod assembly.
There's your whole assembly out. If you can see here, I've got my old assembly, inner tie rod and outer tie rod, and I want to measure right from the edge of this surface here right to the end. I'm taking my new inner tie rod and outer tie rod and I put them together, just to compare. This will give you a good preliminary alignment. We'll put this nut a little closer. We can put it together now. It will be a good preliminary alignment until you can get your vehicle to a shop where you can get a real alignment.
I'm just leaving my nut right there and spinning my outer tie rod off. The nut marks the place where your tie rod was and then taking off that outer tie rod just makes it easier to get the inner one on. That allows me put my inner tie rod on. Speed it up here as I use the wrench to tighten the tie rod up. Then I can put my outer tie rod right back on and go right up to the nut. Then I'll just fast-forward here as I put that outer tie rod back on the inner tie rod. Now I'm just taking the nut or just getting the outer tie rod in place. Take the nut off the new tie rod, and I'm just going to get some of the debris off the steering knuckle there, and then you can push on the stud on the tie rod and get it lined up with the steering knuckle, and then push it up and in, and start your nut back on.
We'll tighten this up to 65 foot-pounds. Pull a little tighter here and we can get this cotter pin through. We'll fast-forward here as we install the cotter pin and bend the end over and then use a 7 mm wrench and install our grease fitting. We'll take a wrench screw up here. The other one holds the outer tie rod and just tighten up the block nut. Now you want to use a grease gun and grease both the joint for the outer tie rod and the inner tie rod.
Use some more fast-forward here. As you put the wheel and tire back on, start all the lug nuts one by one by hand first, then use your wrench to preliminary tighten them, then you can lower the vehicle back down on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm using a crossing pattern and then I do it one more time, go around all eight and make sure they're tight. Then you can put your center cap back on and you should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2005 GMC Savana 2500. It's the same process on the Savanas from 2001 to 2006, as well as a large variety of GM trucks and vans. The tools you'll need are an adjustable wrench, a piece of pipe for leverage, a 7 millimeter and 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, a pair of pliers, jack and jack stands, a hammer, and a torque wrench.
Start by removing the wheel cover or whatever wheel trim you might have. This one has a chrome one. Pull that off, and then, just use your socket and pull or loosen the lug nut covers. Pull the center cap off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then, jack up and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Now, what you want to do is angle the wheel so you can get back to the outer tie rod. Now, using an adjustable wrench and a piece of pipe, you want to loosen the tie rod. Using a 21 millimeter socket, you want to remove that castle nut at the top of the ball joint. This one didn't have a pin through it to secure it, but typically, they do. All you want to do is straighten out the pin and pry it out. Now, using a hammer, you just want to hit the knuckle. Just repeatedly hit it until that bolt loosens up and pull the tie rod free. Before you remove the tie rod, make sure you know what the length of it is. Just measure this distance. Now, you can spin the outer tie rod off.
The old one is on the right, with the new outer tie rod on the left from 1A Auto. You can see it's an exact match. It comes with everything you need for installation. Now, using a 7 millimeter socket and ratchet, you just want to make sure you tighten this up. Then, twist the outer tie rod back onto the inner tie rod. Now, you want to re-measure it and make sure it's the right distance. Then, you want to line up the knuckle with the bolt on the ball joint. Push it up through and replace your castle nut. Push the pin through the bolt and the castle nut. You just want to use pliers to pry the ends of the pin. Now using your adjustable wrench, just tighten that back up.
We'll just fast forward as he puts the wheel back on. You want to replace the lug nuts while it's up in the air. Tighten them. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Then, you want to put back on your hubcap. Tighten the lug nut caps and replace your wheel cover.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
