2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Front & Rear Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA12934

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right part installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we're going to show you how to change the front brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, pretty much the same as any 2000-2006 and even some '07, the 2500HD as well as the 2500 both GMC as well as Chevy Silverado. Tools you'll need are: A jack and jack stands, various millimeter sockets with a ratchet, an extension, a breaker bar or metal pipe for some leverage if you don't have impact tools like I have in the video, penetrating oil, a large screwdriver or pry bar, a wire brush, two 10 m x 70 mm long standard thread bolts, anti seize lubricant, and a large C-clamp and a piece of wood.

Okay, so you'll want to remove your caps 21 mm, do this carefully. Okay, we'll fast forward a little bit and we'll use fast forward quite a bit for these monotonous parts. If you don't have air tools you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the tire on the ground, then jack up and support with jack stands under your vehicle. We're using a 22 mm. Okay, and we'll fast forward here again as we remove the rest of the lug nuts and remove the tire from your vehicle. You can see here I go to the other side and just turn the wheel, you can also just use your steering wheel, this allows you access to the back easier. Okay, so you want to inspect your brakes and you can see the face of this rotor is nice and smooth, if you run the back side of your fingernail up and down it, it looks pretty good. Then there's, you can actually see, probably, you can see right here when you move, you can see that moving part to the rotor, just to the left of it that's your brake pad, which it looks like there is pretty good life and this right here is your other brake pad and again, it looks like pretty good life. But, if you come down here and we look up in here and look at the surface of the rotor in here one, I can see some pitting which I don't like, and then there's a pretty good groove on this here so I'm going to remove the calipers and the rotors.

To remove the calipers I'm going to start with these two bolts here, okay, this bolt and this bolt. Okay, I want to remove the bracket to remove the rotor or the disk, I'm going to move this bolt and this bolt down here. I'm just going to take a big screwdriver, put right in here, and then slowly pry out. Okay, and that does two things it resets the pistons and also loosens it up so that the caliper comes right off.

The bolts are 18 mm, so a breaker bar is your best tool and if you only have a ratchet what you can do is take a piece of pipe and put it on the end and that gives you more leverage. Then you can pull and loosen those up. I do have air tools so I'm going to use them. Pull your pins out here and you'll want to clean these up and re-grease them. My lower one is not coming out very easily. Okay, that was pretty dry so we really need to clean that up and grease it well. It's okay to use the screwdriver to pry the caliper to come off. Then you'll want to set that here. Then your pads come off easy enough. If you were just changing your pads, we just pull off like that. Now the bolts that hold this bracket on are 21 mm. So what you'll probably want to do is spray a bunch of penetrating oil on there. Another thing that will help is if you take a screwdriver and you clean as much of the scale and stuff right here, okay, after you scrape that out coat back here with the penetrate as well. And I did show doing that to one spot, what you want to do is spin the rotor around and scrape all the scale for the entire diameter of the rotar and also coat the entire circumference of the rotor.

Is some M10 metric bolts; these are 7 cm long and just thread them in these two holes. I'm going to use my impact wrench, so you're basically just going to tighten them up so you pull the rotor and it comes off. Then take your bolts back out of the rotor. We can see on this rotor there is some definite pitting issues and we're going to replace it. With the rotor off, we want to clean off the hub. I used a screwdriver to scrape some of the scale off and then a wire brush to clean up more of the rust and then we're going to use some anti seize and put it on there. You can also use some, just some motor oil or penetrate to seal it.

Okay, so here's our new rotor from 1A Auto, the exact same as the old one and it has the threaded holes so it will come apart and I put a bunch of anti seize in the inside and put it on here. Give it good tap and then I like to put a couple of lug nuts on just makes it easy to get the brakes all together. Okay, now I'm going to take the brake parts cleaner, cut a paper towel, make sure there's no grease or anything still on the rotor. If you don't have brake part cleaner, household rubbing alcohol will do the same thing. Okay, so here's our caliper brackets, okay the stainless steel slides here take the wire brush and just clean those and polish them up nice, not polish them but just clean them off.

Now, here without 21 mm bolts we're bolting the bracket back on to the backside of the steering knuckle. Do keep in mind that the bracket goes on the rotor side so we'll start these bolts. Tighten these up to 120 foot pounds. These shoes have thin shins on them so you want to put a little coat of silicone lubricant on them and then you want these wear tabs to be facing against the way the wheel is going, you basically want them facing down. So, you put this on.

Okay, so you remember our slide bolt that was dry? Take a screwdriver and kind of get any of the scale off of it. This one is borderline needing to be replaced actually. Okay, a little grease on it, make sure it's greased up well. Okay, what I've got here is a piece of wood on both pistons and then a large C-clamp and as I tighten it's going to force the pistons back into the caliper. Tighten it as much as you can and get those pistons seated as far down there as you can and your clamp goes over the wood and then your caliper will go down right over, but you need to kind of move the little boot around a little bit, and then your bolt you cleaned up and lubricated. So, the caliper still moves back and forth we want a little bit more, I'm going to put these up to 90 foot pounds.

Okay, we're going to speed it up here, as I straighten the wheels, remove those two lug nuts, a little bit of anti seize or you could just put some oil or something just to keep the wheel from seizing to the disk. And now put the wheel on start your lug nuts by hand first, then I use my 22 mm impact wrench just to tighten them up preliminarily. Okay, now with the truck on the ground I'm going to torch my lug nuts to 120 foot pounds. I'm going to use a crossing pattern and then just another key while I'm doing this, before you drive your vehicle make sure you pump your brakes a whole bunch of times until the pedal feels nice and firm. That works the cylinders or the pistons back to the set position and then just make sure your brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from 5 mph and a stop from 10 mph before you go out and road test your vehicle.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 1-888-844-3393. We are the company that serves you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.

You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.

There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.

You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.

Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.

Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.

Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we are going to be showing you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, same as a Chevy as well, same as 2000 to 2007 both GMC and Chevy 2500 HDs. Tools you will need are 18 and 22mm sockets with your ratchet, and a breaker bar and pipe for more leverage. I also do show you a way to get leverage with an 18mm wrench and an additional wrench to hook to it, large regular screwdriver or small pry bar, a large hammer, small and small stubby regular screwdrivers, also a brake spoon for that part of the video would work, wire brush, bearing grease, small hammer and of course jack and jack stands.

Start out by removing your wheel. Carefully remove the plastic retainers and your center cap and then if you are working with hand tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up and secure it, and then remove the lug nuts. I have the benefit of air tools here, so I removed the lug nuts and removed the tire.

So taking a closer look at our brakes, you can see our discs are really deteriorating here, so we are going to replace those, and you can see right in there, that pad, we had a little bit of life left and the other one looks like it's got more, but obviously we are going to replace the pads as well.

So to remove the calipers, here, what we are going to do is we are going to undo this 18mm bolt here and then the same one down here, an 18mm bolt. These are Torx screws, but this top one is very difficult to get to, so what we are going to do is we are going to take the bolts off and remove the whole caliper bracket and everything first. Before you unbolt it, what you can do is take a large screwdriver. I have a breaker bar here. Feed it right into this hole here and pry out and that forces the pistons back into the caliper. There is somewhat limited room here, so I put my 18mm wrench on there, take another wrench which gives me a little extra leverage, and if you have a breaker bar and a socket available then you can usually fit those in there as well. I am just showing you this as an alternative method. I can remove this bolt and it comes right off. The lower one is easier to get to so you can use the ratchet or breaker bar, or anything, or air tools. I will finish getting this out and you can bring the caliper up like that. I am going to fast forward here. Basically once you pull that bracket up, you just have to force the shoes down through the bracket and the biggest thing is there are little wear tabs that will get caught and you just make sure you bend those wear tabs in and the shoes will go down right through the bracket and you can pull the bracket right off.

Now, what we have here is we got our caliper. I got a big C-clamp and one of the old pads, so I am going to work this caliper with the C-clamp and push those pistons back in and I am going to wipe down these slide bolts. They look like they are in nice shape. Clean up the sticky stuff on them. Put on a little bit of new bearing grease. Make sure they're moving well.

Now I move this caliper, it's got a couple little locks to hold it on. You can either break these off or twist them off. They come off easily enough. Now I am just going to coat this with some penetrating oil. I already know my rotor is in tough shape, so I am not going to worry too much about hurting it, when I get them off. It actually came off really easily. You can hit it right back here where your caliper was and I have open space.

You saw my rotor come off really easy, but that is not always going to be the case. Sometimes your emergency brake might be adjusted so that the rotor doesn't come off very easily, so the first thing you might want to do is to have a short screwdriver, so I am talking with the rotor still on, you reach back here and you can see I am pulling that plug out. What you are going to want do is take another screwdriver or a little bit larger, but still a small screwdriver and go through the back side until you feel this wheel and then you are going to turn the wheel star down, which is bringing the screwdriver up, and that will basically loosen your emergency brake so your rotor will come off easier. So I have used some mineral spirits, and I've cleaned off my shoes for my emergency brake and I see that I got some oil on there and that probably means I've got bad axle seal, but this truck got 240,000 miles on it, so I am not that worried about it. I am going to use some anti-seize here. I'm probably never going to have to get this off again, but if I do have to get it off again now I know I can.

The new rotor from 1A Auto is in a lot better shape than the old one. It goes right on. I lightly secure with a couple of lug nuts and now I am going to take my small screwdriver, go in to the backside and tighten up the emergency brake adjuster, basically until I start feeling it give some friction to the wheel. I am going to fast forward through this. You do want to go on this side with the handle of your screwdriver up and then move it down, which moves the wheel up inside the rotor and it is kind of trial and error. Sometimes you can move it one way and you don't tighten it and then move it the other way and you do tighten it. It takes a little longer, but adjust them until you have good friction from the shoes and then make sure you replace that rubber dust plug.

Here is my bracket for my brake shoes and what I am going to do is just take these stainless steel slides with a wire brush on them and clean them all up. Get all this dirt off of them. Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You can see a little bit more life then the old pads that were on there. So we got our caliper with slide bolts cleaned and well-greased. This can be the problem with these trucks if these dry out and get dirt in them or whatever, the calipers actually seize up and your rear brakes do not even work, so if that the case you may want to replace these slide bolts, but you definitely want to get them out, clean them up and if you have to wire brush them and make sure you get a good amount of grease back on them. I've got my shoes right there. What I am going to do is take my bracket and just put a little tiny bit of that penetrating oil and that is not really going to make it slide, it is just to make it easier to get together. Put my brackets down on to the slide bolts, then into the shoes. Use a small hammer and looking at these carefully, make sure that the wear tabs go through correctly and also that your shoes are in the right spot here. It's just out there. Okay, that shoe is on. It may benefit you to take like a screwdriver or pry bar and just kind of, the shoe is getting stuck here on this slide a little bit. Push it into place and then lower it, and it looks like it could go in a little bit, push them into place a little bit and then it goes down on. You might have to shake it around a little bit before it goes in towards that bolt. Do the same down here. Get the lower bolt started and take out my lower bolt a little bit with the air wrench. I cannot really get a torque wrench down here, so I am going to just put my wrench back on here and tighten this up really good and it should be tightened to about 120 foot-pounds. We will use a torque wrench.

I am going to speed it up here as I remove those two lug nuts, then put the wheel on, hand thread my lug nuts at first, then use my air wrench just to tighten them up a little bit. Very important: you want to make sure before you test drive the vehicle you pump the brakes a bunch of times then make sure it stops from like five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you road test.

Here again, fast forward as I have now put the vehicle on the ground and I am torquing the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern and then I actually go around one-by-one afterwards just to check and make sure that they are all torqued, and then put your cap on and hand tighten the plastic retainers.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.