Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Rear Shock Absorbers
Specification
Drivetrain
Front Wheel Drive
Steering / Suspension Option
without Self Leveling Suspension
Location
Front & Rear
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How To Replace Sway Bar Link 1996-2007 Chrysler Voyager
Created on:
Tools used
Rust Penetrant
Lug Wrench
5/16 Inch Allen Wrench
3/4 Inch Wrench
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with your lug wrench.
Raise and secure the car.
Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the stabilizer link
Spray the bolts with penetrating oil
Use a 5mm Allen wrench and an 18 mm wrench to remove the nut and bolt on the stabilizer link.
Repeat on the bottom.
Use a Sawzall to remove the stabilizer link if it is rusted on there.
You can rent a Sawzall at a home improvement supply store.
3. install the new stabilizer links
Put the stabilizer link in place and use your wrench to bolt the locking lug nuts on.
4. Put the wheel back on
Hand-tighten the lug nuts and then lower the car.
Refer to the owner’s manual to torque the lug nuts to the correct ft lbs.
Use a star pattern.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source of quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I am Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I am going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we will be replacing the stabilizer link on this 2003 Chrysler Voyager. This is the same as any 1996 to 09 Caravan, Voyager and Town and Country. The tools you will need for this are a set of Allen wrenches 1/4 to 5/16, 3/4 or 18 mm wrench and a socket wrench or lug wrench to remove your wheel. Depending on the year and whether or not your stabilizing links have already been replaced you may have slightly different sizes so we didn't specify each size for the wrenches.
Ok, first you need to raise your car and secure it. Always follow the safety instructions on the jack and the jack stem or the lift and I am going to remove the front wheel. Our problem is actually right here. Now that you have the wheel off, there is two bolts that hold this stabilizer link on right here. I am going to spray it with a good amount of penetrant. Here is the bottom of the link and I am going to bring it around to the side here. You can see the bolt I have actually already spread that one with some stuff. Once you have the bolts sprayed down. You are going to use an Allen wrench and this is a five mm wrench. That is the right one. I believe that's about the right one.
Probably from about 1/4 inch to 5/16 or five mm and then the wrench is anywhere from 18 mm this is actually, this car may have had this replaced before. Then if you are lucky enough, the top comes off pretty easy. You have to hold the Allen wrench while you twisting it off. You see there, it spins if you don't hold it. Now the bottom- you actually put your Allen wrench right up through this little hole in the control arm and then first you got to put your wrench on. Again this one is 3/4 but it may be a 18 mm and then put it up through there. One of the first turns is that you turn it goes by itself and once that other starts spinning you got to work that Allen wrench in there and hold on to it.
Then in my experience, if you are doing this on Northeastern rustbelt car what you are going to want to have ready is a Sawzall. You can easily enough saw right here and right through. As long as you have a new blade on here probably take about 30 - 35 seconds just to get right down through and saw that off. Because most of the time what happens is this is so rusty it won't come apart. If it was necessary up here at the top you can do the same thing, run your saw blade right through here, or if you are lucky enough you may have torch or something. A Sawzall can be rented at a place like a Home Depot or a Lowes. What I would do is when you are ready to do this project try just getting it apart with the wrenches first, but have a plan. Call your Home Depot make sure they have one of these available to rent. If you can't get it apart with the wrenches, hop over to the Home Depot, rent the saw for a couple of hours and make sure you put a new blade on it and you will go right through and get it right out.
Now I am going to remove the old one and get ready to put the new one back in. As you can see I got this hooked off and of course the locking nuts it is kind of can be a pain to the last. It's actually gotten more difficult to remove it. There is the link and what happens is there is a nylon inside and it ends up wearing out and going bad and then they start knocking, if you start hearing a clunk or vibration when you go over a pot hole. That is probably what it is. One way to really tell is if you are turning and you go over bumps and you don't hear the sound as much that is a good indicator that these are the problem. Because when you are turning you are actually putting pressure on these and you eliminate their ability to vibrate and clunk. Basically if you are driving straight and you hear clunking when you go over bumps try listening for that clunking when you are taking a slight curve. If you don't hear it as much, then it is your stabilizer links.
Take your new link from 1A Auto then it goes right there where the old one is and then all you have to do is the same drill. Just use your Allen wrench and your wrench and tighten them up. When we get them on, we will tighten them up. Same thing is to put your wrench on, use your Allen wrench. Go ahead and tighten them on. Get them on pretty tight. You can actually once it is in there tight you can use your wrench really tighten them up. Tighten up the bottom one really good. Put the wheel back on and it is ready to go.
Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. The company that is here for you on the internet and in person. Thank you.
PSA56184
In Stock
Product Reviews
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3.67/ 5.03
3 reviews
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waste of money
A
August 19, 2017
Every thing in the kit is ok except the front struts, I spent all day installing them only to find out the 3 bolts at top were incredibly weak one actually snapped in half. I'm very displeased. A complete waste of my day off work and a waste of money. I won't buy new struts from here ever again.
Quality parts and outstanding performance.
Matt
June 14, 2023
Great product! I really love the design and strength of the components. Easy to install and made my job so much easier. Thanks for the awesome product! If you need a quality product that's made to last, this is it. Our 20 year old van rides like a dream!
M Vickery
Great buy!!!
Josh
July 22, 2023
Great
Customer Q&A
Who is the manufacturer of the strut assembly?September 6, 2016
Javier M
10
Monroe,
I installed these strut assemblies in my 2003 Ford Ranger and love the ride and handling.
September 6, 2016
Roger C
10
Hello, I wasn't sure of the manufacturer, I was intrigued by the price I priced these same parts in town and the cheapest was $500+
September 6, 2016
HIRAM S
10
We have a few different aftermarket companies build these parts specifically for us, as our 1A Auto house brand. They are manufactured to the same OEM specifications as the original part that came with your vehicle. If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
September 7, 2016
Brian F
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
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