Replaces
Part Details
Our direct fit gas-charged strut assemblies help to restore your vehicle’s handling and ride quality to just like new.
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacements parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1aauto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the rear shocks on this 2002 GMC 2500. The only tools you'll need for this job are two 21mm wrenches either a large wrench or two sockets with a ratchet and a breaker bar.
You don't even have to raise the vehicle. You definitely don't have to take off the rear wheels. You don't even have to raise the vehicle you just need to secure it with blocks and you can actually just crawl underneath and replace the shocks without even lifting up the vehicle. Although lifting up the vehicle does make it a little easier.
You can see I got the truck on the lift. I also got the rear end supportive. You basically want to jack your truck up. The best place to jack your truck up is here and then you can put a safety jack stand under here on each side or you can actually put safety stands right underneath the axle tubes right here, that's probably the best place then put all the weight on the axle.
I have it supported here for two reasons, for safety and also pushing up on the axle a little bit contracts the shocks some which takes some of the pressure off of them. Basically when you have all the weight off of the axle or the axle hanging down, the shocks are actually what's holding it up. You don't want to have the axle hanging down and then just crank the shocks because then your rear end is going to fall down further.
Start by spraying penetrating oil on the bolts, this side and the other side. We're going to replace both shocks at once. Always replace shocks in pairs. Working on this little bolt first, you got to want either a breaker bar, 21mm socket. You can also use a ratchet with a pipe on it. That gives you some extra leverage. I'll use the breaker bar here and get this on the right way. It seems to come apart pretty easily. Swap the pipe around. I'll speed it up here. I take the nut off but I don't remove the bolt from the shock yet. Hope for the same results. Bolt's turning.
Here again I'll just speed it up as I'm working those wrenches and removing the nut from the end of the bolt.
Going back down here. At this step if you got the rear end, if you actually are working on the ground you can do this without even jack and jack stands. At this point be very careful, as you pull this bolt out the shock may want to go down.
Mine are in pretty rough shape. We're not even doing much still the bolt has come right out.
Just for reference, here's my old shock. If you press it down. It pretty much stays down. On the new shock, you can see it has band on it. If you press it down it actually slowly comes up.
I pull my old shock up. You can see I can just press right down and it just takes a whole lot more force on the new shock.
With the new shock, put it up there in place. You put the bolt through and the spot on the nut. Now swing this into place, and on.
From here on out I'm just going to use fast forward. Use your breaker bar and your ratchet to tighten them up. Basically tighten them up as tight as you can with that ratchet. That's good. These bolts should be probably torqued to about 70 to 75 foot-pounds. Once you have them all tighten up, obviously replace the other side. Your car would be riding smoother down the road.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. Today I'm going to be replacing these rear shocks on this 2016 Ram 1500. If you need these parts, or other parts, for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.
We're going to loosen these lug nuts up, going to use a 7/8ths socket. You can also use a 22mm socket and a breaker bar. Just want to crack 'em free before we raise the vehicle. I'm going to raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift. If you're doing this at your house you can use a jack and jack stands.
I'll take these lug nuts off, we'll just use the socket. Take that last lug nut off. You can grab the tire, take it off. This vehicle has a mud flap, so I'm going to remove this. Going to use an 8mm socket and ratchet. Remove these two bolts, and then there's a screw right there. Then I'm going to use a Phillips head screwdriver. Pull this screw off. There's actually a nut on the back side, so I'm just going to hold the nut with my fingers. Pull that out. If you needed to put a wrench on there. Set that aside.
Now I'm going to remove this inner fender well. We're going to remove these bolts. There's nine of them. Right here, here, here, and then those two as well. Just use an 8mm socket and a ratchet. Take that last screw out. Grab the inner fender liner. Just going to slide it out. Take it out just like that. I'm going to support the rear axle so that it doesn't fall once I pull the bolts out of the shock. So, you can use a floor jack, or we're using the transmission jack, or a screw jack, or a pole jack.
I'm just going to break this bolt free. I'm going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Just loosen it up. All right. So, to get this upper bolt out, the nut on the inside is just spinning, so I had to take a 21mm wrench and actually heat it up and bend it. If you're doing a lot of these jobs, you might want to do this, or get a short 21mm wrench. There's no way to get a socket on the inside of here. If you get the wrench on the inside right here. Just like that. Then I can take a 21mm socket and breaker bar, loosen up this bolt from the inside. I don't want to take the bolt out completely, 'cause I do want to support the rear axle before I take the bolt out, but at this point I want to get the nut off from the inside. Just going to loosen it up. So I'll loosen this bolt up and take it out. Once it's pretty loose I can take this modified wrench out. I'll try to take the nut off with my fingers. Slide the nut off. Just leave that in there for now.
Now I'll loosen up the bottom bolt with a 21mm socket and breaker bar, 21mm wrench. Loosen it up. Take this nut off. Once that's out. Just want to make sure your support is good for your rear differential, then we can pull these bolts out. Pull this bolt out first. Pull the top bolt out next. Slide the shock right out. This is our old shock. Here's our new shock from 1aauto.com. It's a KYB shock, it's got the same bushings, same length, same dust shield. Get yours at 1aauto.com and get ready to rock and roll.
Now I'm going to slide the shock into place, start with the top. Take the shock bolt, get that installed. Get the nut on the inside started. Then we'll try to line up the bottom. I am actually going to have to lower the rear differential a little bit. Now going to raise it up. When it's in position take the bolt, slide that in. Take the nut, put the nut on. Now going to take the ratchet and the wrench, and tighten this bolt up. Snug that up, and do the same for the top bolt. We're going to take a torque wrench, and we're going to tighten these down to 100 foot pounds. I'll start with the top one. I still have my wrench on the inside. Now I can pull the wrench off. Now I'll take the bottom one.
Now we're able to lower the support for the rear differential. I'm going to reinstall this in your fender well. Bend it up a little bit, should be able to get it in. There we go. Just going to take these bolts, get these bolts started. I'm going to reinstall the mud flap before I tighten those other screws up. Get these started. I'll take an 8mm socket, extension, and ratchet, going to tighten up all these bolts, and those too. Then just snug those down. You are tightening plastic down, so not too tight. Take the wheel, line it up with the lug nuts. Take the lug nuts, get those started. Just take the socket, make sure these are all snug. I'm going to lower the vehicle and torque them. Going to take a 7/8ths socket or a 22mm socket, and a torque wrench, and I'm going to torque these to 130 foot pounds. We're going to do this in a star pattern, so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. I'm going to go around one more time, just to make sure.
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