Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Inner Tie Rods (2) Front Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Steering Rack & Pinion Bellows (2) Front Brake Rotors (1) Front Ceramic Brake Pad Set with Contact Point Grease & Hardware (2) Front CV Axle Assemblies (2) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies
Specification
Vehicle Wheel Hub Option
with 6 Lug Wheels
Drivetrain
4 Wheel Drive
Location
Front
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Complete Repair in One Purchase - Stop searching for parts individually and complete your repair with a customized kit or set from DIY Solutions.
High-Quality Parts from Trusted Brands - DIY Solutions' kits and sets are selected from the best automotive brands and include hard-to-find and even obsolete parts you may need for your vehicle.
Guaranteed Fit - DIY Solutions ensures its selected parts are quality-tested to guarantee fit and function.
100% New Components
For quality fit, finish, and easy installation.
Heat Treated
For longer-lasting life and consistent performance under different road conditions.
Precision Machined
And made of brand new components, held to tighter tolerances for better consistency than rebuilt parts.
Replacement Brake Kits Features & Benefits
Longer life - Positive molded to ensure even wear and enhanced performance
Less dust - Cleaner, quieter, smoother braking
Reduce vibration and noise - Balanced, finished surface
Cast from premium G3000 alloy for strength and durability
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How To Replace Front Axle 2004-08 Ford F150
How To Replace Outer Tie Rod 2004-08 Ford F150
How To Replace Front Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 2004-08 Ford F150
How To Replace Front CV Shaft 2004-10 Ford F-150
How To Replace Front CV Axle Shaft 2005-08 Ford F150
How To Replace Upper Control Arm 2004-09 Ford F150
Created on:
Tools used
13mm Socket
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Pry Bar
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriver
12mm 12-Point Socket
8mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 21mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Loosening the Outer Tie Rod
Turn the wheel
Remove the 21mm nut from the outer tie rod
Leave the 21mm nut on a couple threads
Hammer the knuckle until the outer tie rod loosens
Set the outer tie rod off to the side
3. Loosening the Axle
Remove the hub nut cap with a pair of pliers
Remove the 13mm hub nut
Replace the 13mm nut by a few threads and tap the nut with a hammer to push the axle through
Remove the nut
Have an assistant hold the brakes
Remove the 12mm bolts from the axle with a 12mm 12-point socket
4. Removing the Axle
Remove the 21mm nut from the bottom of the upper control arm
Thread the 21mm nut on
Loosen the upper control arm with a hammer
Remove the nut
Manuever the wheel knuckle to the side without straining the brake lines
Remove the axle from the wheel knuckle
5. Installing the New Axle
Insert the axle into place
Insert the upper control arm into the wheel knuckle
Tighten the 21mm nut
Tighten the 12mm bolts into the axle
Torque the 12mm nuts to 60 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern
Tighten 13mm hub nut
Torque the hub nut to 20 foot-pounds
Tap the hub nut cap into place
Re-clip and realign any lines that may have come undone
6. Reinstalling the Outer Tie Rod
Push the outer tie-rod up through the wheel knuckle
Replace the 21mm nut
Torque the 21mm nut to 111 foot-pounds
Tighten the bolt on the upper control arm
Torque the upper control arm 21mm nut to 111 foot-pounds
Tighten the 18mm nut to the sway bar link
Jack underneath the control arm
Torque the lower strut bolt to 150 foot-pounds
7. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front axle on this 2005 Ford F-150 with 4-wheel drive. We show you on the driver side, but the passenger side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, an 8mm, 13mm, and 21mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, a 12mm 12-point socket, an 18mm and 21mm wrench, pliers, pry bar, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off the hub cap. Then loosen up these lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Once you get each of them loosened up, you can raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Now pull the wheel off.
Turn the wheel and then remove this 21mm nut at the top of your outer tie rod. Once you remove it, you want to just put it back on just a couple threads. Now hammer the knuckle until the outer tie rod drops down. Now you can remove that nut, and just set your outer tie rod off to the side.
Using a pair of pliers remove this cap and then loosen up and remove that 13mm nut. Then you just want to put it back on, just a few threads, tap it with a hammer and make sure it goes through. Then remove the nut the rest of the way. On the other end of the axle there's a series of 12mm bolts. You just need to use a 12mm 12-point socket and then a pry bar to hold the wheel and just loosen those up. We'll fast-forward as Mike removes all six of those. When you remove that last one, just push the axle down to the side.
Now spray this 21mm nut up here on the bottom of your upper control arm, and then remove that nut and put it back on just a few threads. With the nut back on a few threads, just hammer the wheel knuckle until the upper control arm loosens up. Now just lift up on the wheel knuckle and then remove that nut. You can just set the wheel knuckle off to the side carefully. You don't want it to strain those brake hoses. Then just tap the axle and pull it out of the wheel knuckle. You want to feed the axle towards the left side, towards the front of the vehicle. Just angle it down and pull it down and out.
On the bottom is the old front axle; above it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Making sure they're tightened. Now you can remove the jack and feed your axle back into place. You want to feed it back in the same way that you pulled it out.
Now you can take your upper control arm and push it back into the wheel knuckle. Once you push it through, just put that 21mm nut on there to hold it in place. Line up the axle and replace those 12mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does this. Now tighten each of those to 60 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. You can see we torqued that one. Then you want to turn the wheel until you get the one on the opposite side. Then torque that one. You want to just repeat this process with each of them. Now replace this 13mm nut and torque it to 20 foot-pounds. Then replace that cap and just tap it into place.
If any of the lines on the back came undone, make sure you push them back in and re-clip them. Then push your outer tire rod up to the wheel knuckle and replace the nut. Then torque that to 111 foot-pounds. Now just tighten up this bolt on your upper control arm. If the stud spins, use a 10mm socket and ratchet. Then you want to torque this to 111 foot-pounds. Then tighten up the nut on the bottom of your sway bar link. Jack up underneath the lower control arm to simulate a wheel being in place. Torque the lower strut bolt to 150 foot-pounds.
Now we'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the wheel and replaces the lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then he lowers the vehicle and tightens them the rest of the way. Then torque each of them in a crossing pattern to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace your hubcap and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
Grease Gun
21mm Socket
Measuring Tape
Bearing Grease
21mm wrench
7mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Turn the wheel by hand
Remove the 21mm nut from the outer tie rod
Thread the 21mm nut on a couple of turns
Hold the tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Loosen the tie rod adjusting nut with an adjustable wrench
Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer
Twist the 21mm nut off the tie rod
Measure the distance from the tie rod boot to the outer tie rod stud
Note that measurement
Twist off the outer tie rod.
3. Installing the Tie Rod
Twist on the outer tie rod
Measure the distance from the tie rod boot to the outer tie rod stud
This should be the same as the distance noted in Step 2
Move the adjusting nut as necessary
Push the tie rod into the wheel knuckle
Fasten the 21mm nut onto the tie rod
Tighten the 21mm nut to 111 foot-pounds of torque
Tighten the adjusting nut
Twist the grease fitting into the tie rod
Tighten the grease fitting with a 7mm socket and ratchet
Add grease to the grease fitting with a grease gun
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the driver side but the passenger side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; a 7, 10, and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; two adjustable wrenches; a tape measure; a hammer; a torque wrench; and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off the hub cap. Then loosen up these lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Once you get each of them loosened up you can raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Now pull the wheel off.
Now turn the wheel and then remove this 21mm nut at the top of your outer tie rod. Then once you remove it, you want to just put it back on just a couple threads. Spray the nut at the end of your outer tie rod with some penetrating fluid, and then, using two adjustable wrenches, just loosen it up. Now hammer the knuckle until the outer tie rod drops down. Now you can remove that nut and just set your outer tie rod off to the side.
Now measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to the center of your outer tie rod, and just remember that distance. Then you can twist your outer tie rod free. We'll fast forward as Mike does that.
On the left is the old outer tie rod. On the right, is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new outer tie rod and twist it into place. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Now, measure from the boot to the inside of the outer tie rod and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you'll have to move that nut to adjust it.
Now, feed your outer tie rod up through the wheel knuckle and replace that nut and tighten it up. If the studs start spinning when you use your 21mm socket just use a 21mm wrench and a 10mm socket to hold the stud in place and tighten it up. Then torque that to 111 foot pounds.
Now, using two adjustable wrenches just tighten that nut back up, and then put your grease fitting into place on the outer tie rod. Then just tighten it up with a 7mm socket and ratchet. Using a grease gun, just top it off with some grease.
Now we'll fast forward as Mike replaces the wheel, and replaces the lug nuts, and tightens them preliminary, and then lowers the vehicle and tightens them the rest of the way. Then torque each of them, in a crossing pattern, to 120 foot pounds. Then just replace your hub cap and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
21mm Socket
13mm Socket
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 21mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Remove the hub cap with pliers
Loosen the 13mm nut
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Brake Pads
Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
Remove the 13mm bolts from the brake caliper
Pull the caliper aside
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
3. Removing the Brake Rotor
Remove the 18mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
Pull off the brake caliper bracket
Thread a nut onto the rotor
Hit the rotor with a hammer
Pull the rotor off
4. Removing the Hub
Disconnect the ABS harness sensor
Remove the ABS from the harness on the bracket
Remove the four 18mm bolts from the hub
Remove the 13mm hub nut, making sure you can push the nut in and out
Twist in an 18mm bolt to the hub
Remove the hub
5. Installing the Hub
Grease the set of bearings inside the new hub with bearing grease
Apply a light coat of bearing grease to the engaging wheel for the 4WD
Insert the hub into place
Tighten the 18mm bolts to the hub
Tighten the 18mm bolts to 95 foot-pounds of torque
Replace and tighten the 13mm hub nut
Tighten the 13mm bolt to 20 foot-pounds of torque
Push the ABS wire into its respective brackets
Replace the hub cap
6. Installing the New Brake Rotor
Slide the rotor on
Thread on one lug nut to hold the rotor in place
Adjust the emergency brake, if necessary
Put the bracket back into place
Start the 18mm bolts by hand
Tighten the bolts to 95 foot-pounds of torque
7. Installing the New Brake Pads
Put the caliper on
Thread the 13mm bolts by hand
Tighten bolts to 25 foot-pounds
Remove the lug nut from the rotor
8. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to between 110 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Connect the ABS sensor
9. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new front hub from 1AAuto.com, a 13mm, 18mm, and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage, flat blade screwdriver, a pair of pliers, a jack and jack stands and a torque wrench.
Pry off the hubcap, and then, using your 21mm socket and ratchet, loosen up each of the lug nuts. Pull off this cap with a pair of pliers and then loosen up this 13mm nut. Now raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove your wheel.
Turn the wheel so you can access the brakes better. To make it easier to get the caliper off, just take a large screwdriver and put it into the brake disk and pry out. You don't have to move it far, just enough to help you get things apart. Then we are going to remove the two 13mm bolts here and one up here. Push in the slides on the bracket and then pull the caliper up and off.
Now pry out your brake pads and now remove these two 18mm bolts on the back of your caliper bracket, and we'll just fast-forward as Mike removes those. Put one of the lug nuts back on and then tap your rotor. Then remove the lug nut and pull your rotor free.
The ABS harness connector is under the hood but actually it's easier to reach it from underneath. You can see I'm reaching up through the inner fender and pressing on the tab and pulling it apart. It does take a little bit of force but you can get it. If everything here is wire-tied, make sure you disconnect that, and then just pull this clip out at the top of this harness. Then you want to remove these four 18mm bolts. Two on that side and two over here. We'll fast-forward as Mike removes both of those, and you can see he uses a piece of pipe for some extra leverage.
Now remove that 13mm nut the rest of the way, and you want to make sure that it can push in and out. That means your axle is going to disconnect from the hub. Now twist in one of those 18mm bolts just a partial way so this doesn't go flying when you hammer it. You just want to hammer it to loosen it up a bit more from the wheel knuckle, then remove that bolt, and your hub should pull free.
On the right is the old hub; on the left is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Here is a front shot. You can see same thing, they look identical. Just wipe any dirt off of there or anything. Grease up the set of bearings that's right inside here with some bearing grease. Then just apply a light coat to the engaging wheel for the 4-wheel drive here. That harness lead faces the back. Get it in place. We'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the rest of those bolts and then tightens all of them up. You want to torque each of those four bolts to 95 foot-pounds.
Now replace that 13mm nut, tighten it up, and then just torque that to 20 foot-pounds. Take your ABS wire and unclip it. Then you want to just push this into that bracket right there. Replace this small cap.
Put the rotor into place, and then replace a lug nut to just hold it in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. You put the brake caliper bracket back into place and replace the two 18mm bolts that hold it there. We'll fast-forward as he tightens those up. Then you want to torque both of those to 95 foot-pounds.
Put your caliper back into place. Then replace those two 13mm bolts and tighten them up. Now torque both of these to 25 foot-pounds. Reconnect this clip on the ABS harness. Just work your way down the harness, re-clipping the end to each of those clips.
Remove the lug nut and then put your wheel back into place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each of the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap.
Come up here and reconnect your ABS harness. After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour. We hope this video helps you out.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
24mm Socket
12mm Socket
13mm Socket
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
30mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
Assistant
1. Disconnecting the CV Axle
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Pull off the hub dust cover with pliers
Remove the 13mm axle nut
Have an assistant hold the tire or press the brakes
Remove the six 12-point, 12mm bolts that hold the CV axle to the solid axle
2. Disconnecting the Strut
Remove the 30mm nut bolt from the bottom of the strut
Tap the 30mm bolt out with a hammer
Pry the strut aside with a pry bar
3. Removing the CV Axle
Pull the CV axle past the solid axle
Pull the CV axle out of the wheel hub
Pull the CV axle out past the solid axle
4. Installing the New CV Axle
Slide the CV Axle into position
Slide the CV Axle into the wheel hub
5. Reconnecting the Strut
Pry the strut into the lower control arm
Fasten the 30mm nut and bolt onto the bottom of the strut
Tighten the 30mm nut and bolt to between 95 to 100 foot-pounds of torque
6. Reconnecting the CV Axle
Line up the CV axle with the solid axle
Insert the six 12-point, 12mm bolts into the CV Axle
Tighten the 12mm bolts to 25 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Fasten the 13mm nut onto the end of the axle
Tap on the dust cover with a hammer
Push on the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front axle on this 2004 Ford F150. It's pretty much the same for any 2004 to 2010. This is a 4 wheel drive. You're going to need new axles from 1AAuto.com. We show you the right hand or passenger side axle; the left hand driver's side axle is the same procedure. You'll also need jack and jack stands; pry bar; pliers; 13, 24, and 30 millimeter sockets; a ratchet and a breaker bar; a pipe for some leverage; a 12 millimeter, 12 point socket and ratchet; and a torque wrench.
To start out, raise and support the vehicle securely and then remove your center cap. We remove the cap on the end of the hub. With a 13 millimeter socket, I remove the nut on the end of the axle. Where the end of your CV joint meets the solid axle, there's going to be six 12-point, 12 millimeter bolts. I'm using a 12-point socket to remove those. We're just going to do some fast forwarding here, and you can basically hold on to the tire, or you could have somebody hold the brakes for the vehicle. Loosen up those bolts and remove them. I'm going to remove the bolt with a 30 millimeter socket that holds in the lower part of the strut assembly, so that we can get more room to pull the CV shaft out. I'm going to fast forward here as we remove that nut and bolt. Once you get the nut loosened up you can tap it with a hammer a few times, and make sure that the bolt is loose and will come out. I'm going to use a pry bar and pry out the lower end of the strut assembly from the lower control arm. While I was prying on the lower part of the strut assembly I was able to pull the CV shaft past this. Now I'm going to pull the shaft out. Okay, and we'll just speed up here. Work the axle out and then you actually have to work the lower strut mount out. You can see we'll use a pry bar, and get that moved out of the way and then the axle comes right out.
I'm sliding the CV joint back into place. Now, with the wheel all the way turned out I'm going to go ahead and rescecure where the strut goes into the lower control arm. Then once you get that back in place use the bolt or you can also use a screw driver or a lineup tool, get the hole to line up, get the bolt through, put the nut on the back side, and then tighten it up. You want to tighten that bolt up to about 95 to 100 foot pounds. I'm going to line up the holes on the CV shaft with the solid axle and reinstall the 12 millimeter, 12-point bolts. Once again, we'll fast forward here. We install the bolts first by hand. Make sure they're turning in there and you're not cross-starting any of the bolts. Then tighten them up kind of preliminarily. Then what you want to do is use a cross pattern. Tighten one up, and you want to tighten them to about 25 foot pounds. Tighten one up and then, go to the opposite one, tighten that one up, and just keep with that pattern until they're all tight.
I'm reinstalling the 13 millimeter nut on the end of the axle, CV shaft. Reinstall the cap, and align your center hub cover, the pin here and the hole there.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
12mm Socket
13mm Socket
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
26mm Wrench
12mm 12-Point Socket
30mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the center hub cap with a pair of pliers
Remove the 13mm axle nut
Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Pull off the hub cap
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Axle
Have an assistant hold the brake pedal
Remove the six 12 point, 12mm bolts from the axle flange
Remove the 30mm nut at the bottom strut bolt
Pry out from under the strut
Remove the axle
3. Installing the Axle
Insert the CV axle into place without tearing the boot or dislocating the joints
Put the strut into place
Tighten the 30mm bolt to the bottom strut
Have an assistant hold the brake pedal
Tighten the six 12-point, 12mm bolts to the axle flange
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Reinstall the axle nut preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the axle nut
Reinstall the axle nut cap
Tighten the lug nuts 150 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2004 Ford F150. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the front CV axle. We are doing this on the driver's side, but this part and information is going to be the same on the passenger's side.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck, as well as many other makes and models. If you need this part for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 12mm-30mm sockets, wrenches, socket extension, 12-point 12mm socket, pliers, prybar/breaker bar, torque wrench, flat blade screwdriver, rust penetrant, jack, and jack stands.
Using a pair of pliers, wiggle the cap out of the center of the hub and remove this thirteen millimeter nut at the end of the axle. Break the lug nuts loose with a nineteen millimeter socket and a breaker bar. You only want to crack them loose about one turn. We're going to do this on a lift to make it easier to show you, but this job can be done at home on a jack and jack stand. Once we've loosened the wheel and the axle nut, we'll raise and support our vehicle. Finish removing the lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire from the truck.
We'll remove these six, twelve-point 12 millimeter bolts with a twelve-point socket and ratchet so we can disconnect the axle flange from the differential. You'll need a friend to get inside the vehicle and hold the breaks as you break the bolts loose. We'll rotate it. Remove each one as the get on and off the brakes.
We've soaked all of our hardware in penetrating oil before starting here because these flanges tend to get pretty rusty. This is not somewhere you want to break off a bolt. Have your assistant release the brake pedal. Rotate the axle around a hundred and eighty degrees. Have them reengage the pedal so you can finish removing the hardware. Using a 30 millimeter socket, remove these nuts at the bottom strut bolt. You may have to support the bolt side with a twenty seven millimeter wrench. Remove the nut and bolt.
We've cut the wheel all the way to the left to allow more room. Now, we can pry out from under our strut. Pull it out to the side. Easily remove our axle from the truck. This will take a little bit of work. You're going to have to move it a little. Fight it. You may need a pry bar or a hammer to work it out. Sometimes, they do just come out easily.
Here, we have our old CV axle that we removed from our truck and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are nearly identical. We have the same shaft at the end, same threads, and it comes with the new nut. We have the teeth to lock into our hub. Same six bolt flange at the far end. The shafts are a little bit shorter in the center. But, the overall length of the axle is the same. That's what matters here. These boots just come out a little bit farther. These ones here are all torn up and broken. You can see the end cap blew out and let the grease and barrings out of the other end of our CV axle during removal.
CV axles are prone to clicking when taking sharp turns. Most noticeable when the vehicle is in four-wheel drive. But, even when this is turning with the hub and you get it to a steep angle, when you turn the car, it will make a clicking sound. If your CV axle is blown out, making noise, or has snapped and failed completely, preventing your vehicle from going into four wheel drive and moving around underneath the truck, potentially damaging some other components.
This new part from 1AAuto is going to go in, direct fit, just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Reinstall the CV axle, being careful not to dislocate either of the joints or tear the boot. Put the strut back into place. To reinstall the bottom strut bolt, we're actually just a little bit out of line here. We're going to take a pry bar, put it through this notch in the bottom of the control arm, and push up just a little so our bolt slides in easily. We'll straighten out our wheel. Spin the nut back on by hand. Finish tightening it down with a thirty millimeter socket and ratchet and a twenty seven millimeter wrench to hold the bolt on the other side.
Line up the flange at the rear of the CV axle. Reinstall your twelve-point, twelve millimeter bolts. Get these in as far as you can by hand. Then you'll need your assistant again to work the breaks while you tighten them down with a socket and ratchet.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Start your six lug nuts by hand. Reinstall that thirteen millimeter nut on to our axle as far as we can. Then put our vehicle back on the ground. Tighten down the axle nut with a thirteen millimeter socket and ratchet. Reinstall the dust cap over the axle nut. Tap it back into place. You can use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood on a hammer. I'm just using the end of the ratchet here because it's handy. Torque the lug nuts to 150 foot pounds. It's very important when torqueing six lug wheels. The cross pattern is different from your standard five lug wheel. You want to make little triangles. We'll skip one lug and, tighten the first three. Then, we'll go across, skip one, skip one again. We'll be tightening the wheels in two small triangles.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
Tools used
13mm Socket
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
27mm socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
12mm 12-Point Socket
8mm Socket
30mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 21mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Loosening the Outer Tie Rod
Turn the wheel
Remove the 21mm nut from the outer tie rod
Leave the 21mm nut on a couple threads
Hammer the knuckle until the outer tie rod loosens
Set the outer tie rod off to the side
3. Loosening the Strut
Remove the 18mm nut below the sway bar link with an 18mm wrench and an 8mm socket and ratchet
Hold the 20mm nut on the bottom of the strut with a 27mm socket and ratchet
Loosen the 30mm nut on the bottom of the strut with a breaker bar and piece of pipe
Remove two of the 15mm nuts on the top of the strut
Leave the other 15mm nut on the top of the strut by a few threads
4. Loosening the Axle
Remove the hub nut cap with a pair of pliers
Remove the 13mm hub nut
Replace the 13mm nut by a few threads and tap the nut with a hammer to push the axle through
Remove the nut
Have an assistant hold the brakes
Remove the 12mm bolts from the axle with a 12mm 12-point socket
5. Removing the Axle
Remove the 21mm nut from the bottom of the upper control arm
Thread the 21mm nut on
Loosen the upper control arm with a hammer
Remove the nut
Manuever the wheel knuckle to the side without straining the brake lines
Remove the axle
6. Removing the Strut
Jack up underneath the control arm
Remove the bolt on the bottom of the strut
Pry the strut out and remove it
7. Removing the Control Arm
Remove the nuts on either side of the upper control arm with a 21mm wrench and 21mm socket and ratchet
Leave the 21mm bolts on by a thread
Hold the upper control arm in place and remove the bolts
Remove the control arm
Step 8: Installing the Upper Control Arm [7:26]
Insert the upper control arm into place
Insert the 21mm control arm bolts in place
Preliminarily tighten the 21mm nuts
8. Installing the Strut
Insert the strut into place
Insert the 15mm nuts to the strut to hold it in place
Pry the strut into the lower control arm
Insert the bolt into the strut
Preliminarily tighten the nut on the bolt
Tighten the 15mm nuts
9. Reinstalling the Axle
Insert the axle into place
Insert the upper control arm into the wheel knuckle
Tighten the 21mm nut
Tighten the 12mm bolts into the axle
Torque the 12mm nuts to 60 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern
Tighten 13mm hub nut
Torque the hub nut to 20 foot-pounds
Tap the hub nut cap into place
Re-clip and realign any lines that may have come undone
10. Reinstalling the Outer Tie Rod
Push the outer tie-rod up through the wheel knuckle
Replace the 21mm nut
Torque the 21mm nut to 111 foot-pounds
Tighten the bolt on the upper control arm
Torque the upper control arm 21mm nut to 111 foot-pounds
Tighten the 18mm nut to the sway bar link
Jack underneath the control arm
Torque the lower strut bolt to 150 foot-pounds
11. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front struts. This is a 2005 Ford F-150. It's exactly the same for any 2004, the new body style, through the 2008, and probably the same for 2009 and up. We show you on the driver's side, but the passenger's side is the same procedure and we do recommend you replace them in pairs. You'll need new front struts from www.1aauto.com, sockets from 8mm up to 30mm, a pipe or a breaker bar for leverage, a 12mm 12-point socket, 18mm and 21mm wrenches, pliers, pry bar, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off the hubcap. Then loosen up these lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way and take the tire off. You want to life the whole front of the car up and put it on jack stands with both wheels off the ground. Now pull the wheel off. Now turn the wheel, and remove this 21mm nut at the top of your outer tire rod. Then once you remove it, you want to just put it back on just a couple threads.
Now hammer the knuckle until the outer tire rod drops down. Now you can remove that nut, and just set your outer tire rod off to the side. Underneath your control arm, on the bottom of the sway bar link you want to just remove that nut. You can try doing it with an 18mm ratchet, but most likely it's going to start spinning, and the solution for that is an 18mm wrench and an 8mm socket and ratchet. Then you can just remove that nut. You want to spray the bolt that holds the bottom of your strut, and then a 30mm socket. I'm using a breaker bar and a piece of pipe and break that free. Then once you get it going, the bolt will most likely spin. Hold the bolt end with the 27mm socket and take that nut off.
Then spray these 15mm nuts at the top of the strut with some penetrating fluid, and remove two of them all the way. The other one, you just want to leave on a few threads. Using a pair of pliers, remove this cap. Then loosen up and remove that 13mm nut. Then you want to just put it back on just a few threads. Tap it with a hammer and make sure it goes through. Then remove the nut the rest of the way. On the other end of the axle, there's a series of 12mm bolts. You just need to use a 12mm 12-point socket, and then a pry bar to hold the wheel. Just loosen those up.
You can also just have a helper get in the vehicle, and hold the brakes to hold the axle in place. When you remove that last one, just push the axle down to the side. Now spray this 21mm nut up here on the bottom of your upper control arm. Then remove that nut, and put it back on just a few threads. Now with the nut back on a few threads, just hammer the wheel knuckle until the upper control arm loosens up. Now just lift up on the wheel knuckle, and then remove that nut. Now you can just set the wheel knuckle off to the side carefully.
You don't want it to strain those brake hoses. Then just tap the axle and pull it out of the wheel knuckle. You want to feed the axle towards the left side towards the front of the vehicle. Then just angle it down, and pull it down and out. Now, we're just going to check up underneath the control arm a little bit. The vehicle is still supported on the jack stands under the frame. Remove the bolt from the bottom of the strut, and you can see the struts in there are still loose. Make sure the nuts on the top of the strut are removed. Pry the strut out.
Up top is the old strut. Below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Feed your strut up into place. Push those studs through. Then just replace those nuts at the top to just hold it. You don't need to tighten them up right now. You're just putting them there to hold it in place. Then pry the bottom of the strut back into the lower control arm. Then push that bolt back through. You just make sure it's all the way in. Then replace the nut and tighten it up preliminarily. We'll just fast-forward as Mike goes back over those 15mm nuts making sure they're tightened. Then you can remove the jack.
Feed your axle back into place. You want to feed it back in the same way that you pulled it out. Then just angle it back down into the hub and push it in. Now you can take your upper control arm and push it back into the wheel knuckle. Once you push it through, just put that 21mm nut on there to hold it in place. Line up the axle and replace those 12mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does this. Now tighten each of those to 60 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. You can see we torqued that one. Then you want to turn the wheel until you get the one on the opposite side. Then torque that one. You want to just repeat this process with each of them. Now replace this 13mm nut and torque it to 20 foot-pounds. Then replace that cap and just tap it into place.
If any of the lines on the back came undone, make sure you push them back in and re-clip them. Then push your outer tire rod up to the wheel knuckle and replace the nut. Then torque that to 111 foot-pounds. Now just tighten up this bolt on your upper control arm. If the stud spins, use a 10mm socket and ratchet. Then you want to torque this to 111 foot-pounds. Then tighten up the nut on the bottom of your sway bar link. Jack up underneath the lower control arm to simulate a wheel being in place. Torque the lower strut bolt to 150 foot-pounds.
Now we'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the wheel and replaces the lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then he lowers the vehicle and tightens them the rest of the way. Then torque each of them in a crossing pattern to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace your hubcap and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Product Reviews
Loading reviews
5.00/ 5.04
4 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
4
0
0
0
0
Timothy
October 7, 2019
Everything was great except for the inner tie rods but they promptly sent me replacements once they were notified of the defective parts. Very professional and happy to make things right. Will be using again for future part purchases
Front end suspension rebuild
C
September 22, 2020
This kit had everything I needed for my complete front end suspension aside from springs and shocks. It all came in one kit that's awesome less work for me finding them all one by one. Reasonable price and parts seemed beefier than factory ones. I am fully satisfied with the end result, there was a noticeable difference in ride quality of my truck nice smooth ride. I would definitely recommend this kit. As a side note it would not be a bad idea to include the front shocks and springs in the kit as another opportune as well.
Fast shipping and great parts
Matthew
October 8, 2020
Got them fast and they fit just like they said it would 1a auto is the best place for auto parts
just what I needed
J
October 23, 2020
my old 2006 ford f150 drives like a new truck. All parts fit like a glove.
I will now keep her instead of selling here.The new shocks I bought from 1A and new tires I got a new truck.
Thank you for good parts at a good price.
John L.
Customer Q&A
I have a Ford with a 6 inch lift will these parts still work for my truck?July 12, 2018
Cary C
10
Hello.
All the parts we carry are listed to fit unmodified vehicles only. Thank you!
July 12, 2018
Adam G
Does this kit include front hubs?October 2, 2020
Greg R
10
Hello,
This kit is shown to include the front hubs. Thanks!
October 2, 2020
Adam G
10
Yes it does
October 4, 2020
Matt I
will this kit work with 2.5" Rough Country struts and springs?April 21, 2021
Eric S
10
The parts we have are unable to work for vehicles with lift kits.
April 21, 2021
Emma F
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Lincoln is a registered trademark of Ford Motor Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Lincoln or Ford Motor Company.See all trademarks.
Enter Vehicle Year Make Model
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Year
Make
Model
Options
Drivetrain
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.