1996 Mazda B3000 Truck with 11 Tooth Window Motor Front Driver Side Power Window Motor Dorman OE Solutions 742-270

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your driver's power window regulator motor.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck, as well as many other makes and models, and if you need this part for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, drill and drill bits, painter’s tape, rubber gloves, hammer, chisel, and punch, 8-11mm sockets, ratchets, and socket extensions, rivets or hardware, rivet gun

Open your door, and remove the two Phillips head screws below the door handle. Open the door handle and release this panel from the door. Pry up and remove the electrical connectors from this panel, using a small flat-blade screwdriver to do this. You want to be careful not to break these arms off. This connector is removed by undoing the two Phillips head screws. You might have to just pry carefully to separate this connector with your flat blade. Remove the last connector the same way we did with the first one by prying up on those tabs and popping it off. Remove the Phillips head screw we just uncovered by removing that panel. One more Phillips head screw at the bottom corner here. Lift up on the panel and remove it from the truck.

Remove the inner door liner. Be careful not to tear it. This adhesive on the back side is reusable if properly stored, so make sure you lay this skin down, with the adhesive facing up, in a clean, dry place. Since we'll likely have to move the window up and down several times throughout this process, we're going to remove our window switch from the trim panel here. It's just these two metal tabs on the bottom. We'll push in and push the switch through the trim. Go ahead and plug it back in.

Turn your key on and bring the window up until we have clear access to the rivets securing the window. To remove the glass from the regulator, we'll have to drill out these two rivets. You'll want to start with a small bit to get a pilot hole going in the stud of the rivet, and then move your way up until you get through the head of the rivet without trying to drill through the glass. Be sure to keep one hand on the window while drilling out the last rivet. Lift up on the window.

It helps to have rubber gloves for this portion of the job because it gives you a little bit better grip on the glass. Keep the glass up in the opening and use painter's tape to secure the window to the top of the door so it's out of our way while we're working on the rest of the regulator. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, lift up on the tab and disconnect the connector for the motor. Then drill out the remaining five rivets for the motor and the rest of the regulator. The last rivet is giving us a hard time and is spinning, so we can't really drill it out. In cases like this, the best solution is to get back there with a really sharp chisel and just cut the head of the rivet off. Remove the 11 millimeter nut securing the last portion of the regulator in, the one at the bottom, and one here at the top with an 11 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension. Remove the last portion of the regulator, and remove the entire assembly from the door.

Using an 8 mm socket and ratchet, remove the three screws securing the motor to the regulator. You're going to need to hold the tooth portion and the base plate of the regulator together very firmly because it is under spring tension, so make sure you have a good grip on it when you remove the final bolt, otherwise it will just send parts flying once the motor comes off. Remove the motor and carefully release the spring tension from the regulator.

To reinstall your motor, rotate the arm around on the regulator. Again, this is under tension, so you're going to have to hold that. Line up the motor and reinstall your three eight mm screws. The clock position doesn't matter too much here because there is usually a way to program these motors so they understand where their top and bottom limits are, especially if your window has an automatic feature. Otherwise they'll simply stop when they bottom out.

Reinstall the assembly into the truck being careful not to bend any of these components. Realign this vertical rod of the regulator with the hole in the bottom and the one at the top, and then reinstall the two 11 millimeter nuts. Tighten them back up with your 11 millimeter socket and ratchet. Now, if you have a large enough rivet gun, you can get window regulator rivets and reinstall these the same way they were from the factory, or you can just get some hardware that's the right size. Personally I think the easiest way to do this is with the bolts facing out from the back.

Line up the regulator, one bolt at a time. Start the nut. Unless you're using the rivet gun, you can't get a bolt into this top hole because of where the regulator rides, but tightening up these four bolts that we do have should hold everything just fine. We'll do that, in our case, with a 13 millimeter socket, ratchet, and a wrench. Depending on what hardware you use you may need different tools in order to tighten these down. Reconnect the connector at the bottom of the motor. Turn the key on. Bring the regulator up. Remove the tape from the window, being sure to keep a hand on there to support the glass. Carefully lower the window down. Line it up. You may need to use a punch or do a little more drilling in order to remove the rest of the rivets from the glass.

Install your new hardware through the glass. Install the nut on the back. Make sure you don't tighten it all the way until you have your other bolt and nut in. You may have to move the regulator a little to be able to get back there and reach the other nut. We're tightening our hardware down with a ten millimeter socket, ratchet, and wrench. Depending on what hardware you use, the tools you need may be different. Check for proper operation.

Reinstall your door panel. Reinstall your weather shielding. Pull the wire harness through. It's easiest to line up to the top of the interior door handle here and then simply press it into place. These hooks on the inside of the door panel will slide into these slots on the inside edge of the door. Be sure that the wiring harness is pulled through when you start and that you hook in to the weather seal under the window here, and that you line up the door lock into its hole. With our lock in place, and our door in the weatherstrip at the top of the window, we'll push in there. Then we can move along and lift up slightly and push in to engage the rest of our door panel before re-installing the first two screws. Reinstall your electrical connectors to the appropriate switches. We'll have to reinstall the two Phillips head screws for our window switch. Once all your switches are reinstalled, line up this panel into your door, snap the clips back into place, and reinstall the two Phillips head screws under the door handle.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.