Replaces
Wheel Bearing & Axle Socket Kit
$59.95
2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set
$89.95
Wheel Bearing & Axle Socket Kit
$89.95
4 Piece Steering & Drivetrain Kit
$94.95
2 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$97.95
Semi-Metallic 5 Piece Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$159.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Wheel Bearings
$191.95
Ceramic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$200.95
6 Piece Steering & Drivetrain Kit
$225.95
8 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$274.95
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll be showing you how to replace the tie rod on this 2001 Ford Taurus. It is the same procedure for any 1996 to 2007 Taurus. Tools you'll need: 18 mm socket and ratchet as well as a 19 mm socket or your lug wrench to get the wheel off, adjustable wrenches, needle-nose pliers, vice grips, some penetrating oil probably, a tie rod puller tool or a tie rod fork and hammer or actually you can use a hammer to get the tie rod out just be careful not to mushroom the end, 8 mm wrench and a grease gun with grease.
When your car goes for a State inspection a lot of times you'll see them jack the front of your car up and move the wheel around. What they're looking for is loose front-end parts, and basically if you shake the wheel- if you take the wheel on the top and bottom and go up and down and you can feel a clunking that's an indication of your upper or lower ball joint. If you can take the wheel on the sides and go back and forth that's an indication of your tie rod. If it actually does both then you need to figure out if you can take it and in any way shake it and you're feeling some looseness then that can be an indicator that your hub is loose. It also can be an indicator that your ball joints and your tie rods could be loose.
This is your tie rod end right here, and when you move the wheel back and forth if you look very closely you'll see that there's movement in relation to the steering knuckle and the tie rod. Using a 19 mm socket or your lug wrench, remove the tire. I am going to pull out the cotter pin. Sometimes it's easier to break it right off with a pair of pliers. It is pretty obvious why this tie rod failed. This is the grease zerk, and it's rusted and dry, which means it doesn't look like this was ever serviced. You want to make sure on your car you are always taking it to get oil changes and making sure that they're greasing things at the same time. I'm going to remove this 18 mm nut. You want to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle, and there is right ways and there is wrong ways. One of the right ways is with this tool, which is a tie rod puller tool. It goes right on there and then pushes it out. You could use a fork, and then basically a hammer and you drive this fork right in between and it pops it out. You can, but you need to be very careful, you could use a hammer and a tool and beat the tie rod up and out like that. What you have to be careful of is that you don't mushroom the end of the tie rod so it doesn't go through the steering knuckle cleanly. If you do it this way what you might want to do is put a bolt on the end here, put your bolt back on the end and then hit it using that bolt so that you hit the bolt and you don't ruin the tie rod.
What I'm going to do is use this tool and mine happens to be a 19 mm here. It just kind of came right out. Interesting. As you can see I've got two adjustable wrenches on here. I've got one on the tie rod itself and then one on the nut back here and I'm just going to pull on the nut one to loosen it up. I'm going to loosen it up just a half a turn. I'm gonna lift this up and out I'm going to twist off the tie rod end. Here is my old tie rod, my new tie rod. I'm going to compare them. Lengthwise they're the same so we know that if we mount the new tie rod the same exact way we should have a good preliminary alignment. A new tie rod comes with a new nut as well. The new nut is basically the same width as the old one. What I'm going to do is take a piece of tape and I'm going to put it onto the shaft to mark where my old one is. I'm going to use a pair of vice grips to lock onto the shaft and see if we can get this bolt off. If necessary you want to use a bit of penetrating oil to see if you can't loosen it up. I've got my vice grips on here and after soaking this with a bunch of penetrating oil and letting it sit for a while I'm able to undo the nut here.
After looking at them right side by side the new nut is just slightly thinner than the old one. What we'll do is we'll just leave one thread between where the new one goes on and the tape just to compensate for that. That should give us a good preliminary alignment. After you do a repair like this you really should go and get the car aligned. Now with your ball joint take the nut off and move that plastic cap that is just protecting the rubber boot. Go slowly until it's up to the nut. Take our vice grips off here and install it. Put the nut on here. Take our two big wrenches again here and make sure that nut is nice and tight up against our tie rod end.
Here we use our torque wrench and you want to torque this bolt between 35 and 40 foot pounds, once it clicks. Then we'll check the hole where you want to put the cotter pin through and if you need to you just tighten it up a little bit more so you can get that cotter pin through there. Now we'll put the new cotter pin in, bend it down and around. Bend that around and we'll put this grease fitting in. Just use our pliers and we'll tighten that up with the proper 8 mm wrench. Now we've got our grease gun, pop it on there. Basically, pump some grease into it, and now you can see the grease actually coming up and around the edge there. That's enough. That's good and full of grease. We will actually check the grease on the other side and put the wheel back on and we'll be all set.
I'm going to just fast forward putting the wheel back on. What you want to do is put on all the lug nuts by hand. Then I just tighten them up kind of preliminarily with my gun and then on the ground torque them to 90 to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern as you tighten.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you front hub replacement on this 2001 Ford Taurus, same as any '96 to '07 Taurus. This is an involved replacement. Jack, jack stands, lots of different sockets, ratchets, and wrenches. You need a larger 30 mm socket, a tie rod puller, a big hammer, a pry bar, and a screwdriver. You'll probably need an air hammer because the steering knuckle is aluminum and tends to get seized. You'll see what I mean.
Start by using a screwdriver and pry off the little cap, and try not to fumble it like I do. If you have the benefit of air tools, the air ratchet's the best way. This is a 30 mm hub nut. You want to remove it with the air tools. If you don't have air tools, you want to have your car on the ground, wheels on the ground, and then you can remove this with hand tools. You're going to need a large breaker bar because it is on here tight. Now you're going to use a 19 mm socket to remove the wheel. Next, remove the cotter pin that holds the bolts for the tie rod end. It's 18 mm.
Now you're going to use a tie rod end and ball joint puller, or pusher. Just try and make sure it's lined up as straight as you can. When it pops, then it's disconnected. Penetrating oil on the upper stabilizer link bolt and the strut clamp bolt. Yes, you'll notice that the tie rod end is connected again, because I kind of shot it out of sequence. Low soak. There's a 10 mm bolt right here that you can remove that holds the brake line bracket. We'll kind of speed through that. Then you pull that brake line bracket out, and then you slide the bracket that has the ABS sensor up and pull that clip off.
The upper stabilizer bolt, you'll need an 18 mm wrench. Then you can see I've got a 10 mm wrench on there in case I need to hold that shaft still. It turns out that this actually comes apart without even having to hold that in place. Pull that link out and then I'm just putting that bolt back on it for safekeeping. Now the bolt that holds the lower end of the strut that's an 18 mm wrench that I'm going to use to hold it. This is a 21 mm. I've just taken and pulled it the rest of the way off by hand. I didn't accidently drop it actually.
Then a small hammer, or a hammer, and just drive that bolt out. You have to drive it all the way out. That bolt actually does hold onto the strut. Once you get it out, you can usually pull it out by hand. Then you need a good size hammer, and you just hit the top of the steering knuckle. If you look real close, you can basically see the disc sliding down off of the strut. We'll speed it up a little bit here.
The big red arrow, that is the axle shaft coming through the hub. Usually I give that a nice big rap and it loosens right up. That's the case it was actually loose on this Taurus. Usually just a nice big hammer, give it one big rap and it'll loosen it up.
Now I'm ready to separate the strut from the steering knuckle. I just kind of pull the wires out of the way and down, then the washer from the hub bolt actually just kind of fell down. Then move everything down. A really different angle here. I use a smaller pry bar or a big screwdriver and basically just pry your axle up out of the hub. I should be careful of that one line right there. That is the brake line. There is generally enough slack in it to do this. Pry it up and pop it out. Then you'll grab onto it with your hands and pull it up. This does require some strength and some force, so you can pull it up and out. Now underneath, on the business end of that axle, just put a pry bar in there, and it's just a snap ring that holds that in place. Just pry it right out.
You're going want to remove these two 12 mm bolts, and then these two 15 mm bolts. These two 12 mm will allow the disc caliper to come off, and then these 15 mm bolts will allow the bracket to come off, which then allows the rotor to come off.
To remove the hub, there's now three 15 mm bolts, here, here, and up here. Without the axle with the axle in you can get to these two okay, but it's very difficult to get to the one up here. Now what I'm doing here is I'm just going to fast motion. I'm going to remove the caliper. Then I'm going to use a wire tie to secure it up top. Now I'm going to use my 15 mm on the impact wrench, remove that bracket and also remove the three bolts that are holding the hub.
Because the steering knuckle is aluminum and the hub is cast iron, they have seized together. I imagine this is probably a common problem in any Taurus. What I'm actually using is an air hammer. You can see I'm wearing protective eyewear and everything. Basically, I'm just working like crazy to try and get that hub out of there. Probably on this vehicle, you're going to want to have access to the air hammer because it took me, I would say, probably a good ten minutes of banging away on it until I finally got it free.
What I've done is I've used a wire brush to try and get most of the corrosion out I can. I'm going to want to use just a little bit of Anti-Seize. Also, it just kind of lubricates stuff a little bit. I've got my bolts back in. I put my new hub in. Get one bolt started here. Get the second one started, and the third one. Now what I'm going to do is slowly tighten them up kind of evenly so it just basically pulls the hub evenly into the steering knuckle. You don't want to just tighten one up and then tighten the other ones. You want to just tighten them a few turns each at a time. Now with the torque wrench we're going to tighten these up to 70 foot pounds.
Because this is an HD video and there's a 15 minute time limit, if you want to see the rest of putting this all back together, just check out our second video for this series.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
This is part two of the hub bearing, just basically putting everything back together. Just a quick refresher on the tools you'll probably need, although some of the special tools you've already used.
The axle pretty much goes in like it came out. You want to put it right up and in. Just give it a good push. Make sure it goes all the way in. Check it from down below here. Make sure there's no shininess showing there and it's all in. Take your axle and push it right into the hub. Now you want to pull these, your brake line and your ABS sensor wire. Basically, push your suspension down and pull your strut right over so it's in. Make sure your bracket is going down into the slot in the steering knuckle here. Then push it down. Again, make sure that gets lined up with that slot. As long as you have that bracket lined up into the slot in the steering knuckle, you start jacking it up, and it goes together. It goes right on. You want to keep lifting. Put this bolt in. Once that bolt goes through, you're all set.
Here I'm going to put the nut on the other side of that. That bolt you want to tighten up to 100 foot-pounds of torque. Put your sway bar link back in. Put this clip back on. Just be careful of your fingers. Then you slide this down, over, then on the back side this little tab goes right through the hole in this clip and the strut and holds everything together. Then the bolt will bolt it together. We'll fast forward through tightening that up. There's no specific torque, just make that bolt tight. Here we'll use a little tapping of the hammer. Doesn't usually take much to get that stabilizer link through the strut. Then put the bolt on. Then use your 18 millimeter wrench and possibly your 10 millimeter and get that link nice and tight. Again, no specific torque specification, just get it good and tight.
Now you want to reconnect your tie rod end. Put that bolt on. You're going to torque this to 50 foot pounds. Then pull it just a little tighter so we can get the cotter pin in. Going to speed through putting the cotter pin in here using a hammer, kind of beat it in there. Then I just bend it over with my hand, make sure it stays. I'm going to speed through putting the brakes back together, and if you notice, you probably saw the brakes on there altogether before that's because I kind of shot a few different videos at once. Pretty easy. Larger bolts, 65 foot pounds. Smaller bolts, 20 foot pounds. If you want to see this in regular motion, just check out our Taurus brake video.
Now here I'm going to put the washer and the hub bolt back on. Then I'm going to grab my impact wrench. If you don't have impact tools, put your wheel back on and lower the car down on the ground, and then you can do that. You can see I'm looking in behind. Basically what I'm doing is watching the axle go into the hub, and once I see the axle pretty much get all in the hub and the wrench slow down that's when I stop because I will want to torque it by hand with the car on the ground.
So, I'll save you all the details of putting the wheel back on, but needless to say, put it on. Put the lug nuts on. I tighten in the lug nuts preliminarily with the impact wrench and then let the car down to the ground. Now with the car on the ground, that 30 millimeter nut, I'm going to tighten it up to 130 foot pounds. Now I'll put the little cap back on, the center cap. Just get it positioned right and give it a good tap with your fist or with a little hammer. Get it positioned right and then give it a good tap with your fist or a little hammer. Then going to torque my lug nuts to between anywhere from 80 and 100 foot pounds. Use a star pattern so cross, cross, cross, and cross. When you road test, just be careful. Go slow the first time out. You should be all set from there.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
