2003 Acura CL Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Performance Brake Rotor Set TRQ Performance BRA74612

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you the procedure for replacing your front disc brakes. We've got here a 2003 Honda Odyssey. The procedure's basically the same for any '99 to '04 Honda Odyssey. We'll show you the passenger side; you would obviously want to repeat this for the driver's side and always replace your brakes in pairs. Tools you'll need are new pads and rotors from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, your lug wrench or a 19mm socket with a breaker bar, 14mm and 18mm sockets, wire brush, a large C-clamp, and a torque wrench.

As you can see, here, I've got the vehicle raised up and I'm removing the lug nuts with my impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or your tire iron. Then, raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. You can see here I'm kicking the tire. That's basically just a way if your tire or your wheel is a little bit frozen on because of the aluminum. Just give it some good kicks and break it loose and then you can remove the tire.

Use a steering wheel or pull on your brakes or your suspension so you can see the caliper easily. Quick inspection of the brake: if you look through here, you see a little slot there. That's actually a wear mark. That indicates that the pads have pretty good wear left on them. Then check the same thing over here. You can see that they're marked right in there for the outside pad. Pads are actually new but we'll take them off and put them on to show you. Also, just inspect the condition of the rotors. These appear to be nice and new. I run the back of my fingernails along them. There are no deep grooves or anything. What we're going to do next is we're going to remove these two bolts here: one here and one down here. These bolts are 14mm; use a 14mm socket. You shouldn't need to use too big of a ratchet handle. They should be fairly easy to get off. Before I take them all the way off, I'm going to grab my caliper and pull. You want it really nice and hard. I'm going to take these bolts out, and by pulling on that I actually kind of loosen up the caliper a little bit and it comes right up and off. For now I'm going to put it right here. To take the pads off you're just going to pull right out. I'll just pull right out on the rear one. Like I said, you can see these pads are fairly new and in good shape.

To get the rotor off I'm going to remove these two larger bolts here. These bolts are 17mm. I'm going to use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. It's always a good tool to have for some leverage. The right tool is actually a breaker bar but you can use this method if you don't have a breaker bar handy. Just apply a nice even pressure until the bolts starts loosening. I'll just speed up here as I remove those bolts. There are two screws that hold this one. The correct tools is an impact driver and what you do is you try to put it on here and then try twisting it but usually that doesn't work. Basically what you do is you twist this counter clockwise to load it up. Hold it into screw and then when you hit with a hammer it both drives the bit into the screw and turns the screw counter clockwise at the same time. I'm going to fast forward here as I just use the impact driver to loosen those screws. Then remove one of the screws. I get this one out and I will have to admit this is the first time this has ever happened to me, even with the impact driver this stripped so I'm going to use a drill and drill it out. Looking at my screw, a quarter inch bit should be enough to draw it all out. I've got my drill, and a quarter inch drill bit. It screws nice and easy because it's already got a hole in it. I'll just fast forward here as I drill out that screw. You saw there, I just used a hammer and hit the middle of the hub and that broke the disc free.

I'm putting a nice new rotor from 1A Auto on. I can use the one screw that I was able to get out and hold the rotor back on, since I wasn't able to get the other screw out, I obviously can't use it to put back on. That's okay the rotor's held on by the five lug nuts and wheel as well. Now we'll just put the inner pad right in here. Using your big C-Clamp, and with your older inner pad in there, tighten up the clamp that forces the piston back into the caliper. Make sure your slides are nice and loose here and then clean them out. Use a wire brush and brush this stainless steel slides. Clean them out. Get your two bolts. This goes between the rotor and the knuckle. Get it correctly back in place and then start your bolts in. Now we get our torque wrench that's set at between 85 and 90 foot-pounds, and torque these bolts on.

To put your pads in is pretty easy. Just kind of poke them right in here. Put them into the slides. Part one slide right down in. Now you bring your caliper right down. I'm going to push this in just a little bit. These bolts you want to set between 18lbs and 20 foot-pounds.

We're getting to the home stretch. Straighten out your wheels either by using steering wheel or pulling the suspension. Put your wheel back on and start all your lug nuts just by hand first and then while the vehicle is still in the air, just kind of preliminary tighten up with your socket and ratchet or as I'm doing, with my impact wrench. Now, again, use your torque wrench and you want to tighten your lug nuts between 95 and a 100 foot-pounds and use a star pattern as you tighten. Whenever you've had the brake apart, just make sure that you pump the pedal a few times. Make sure it's nice and firm. Then before you road test your vehicle just do test stops from five and ten miles an hour. Just to make sure the brakes are working properly.

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