Replaces
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Item Condition:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to replace a rear hub on this 2003 Honda Odyssey, it's pretty much the same procedure for any 1999 to 2004 Odyssey. We show you the right hand or passenger side. The procedure is the same for the left hand driver's side. To get the job done you'll need a new hub from 1AAuto.com, some jack and jack stands, a 19mm socket with a racket and breaker bar or your lug wrench will work. You'll need 36mm socket. Put that by itself because it's something that's not always in a regular toolbox. You'll need 12mm and 14mm wrenches or sockets and ratchet, impact driver, a hammer, a sharp cold chisel or an old screwdriver, a torque wrench and a large C-clamp.
First raise and support the vehicle. Then use a 19mm socket and breaker bar. If you're just using hand tools, actually, you want to loosen the lug nuts when the wheel's on the ground and the vehicle is in park. Loosen the lug nuts, first. Then, raise and support the vehicle. Remove the five lug nuts and remove the rear wheel.
In around behind the rotors, you've got two bolts. They're 12mm: here and here. I'm going to put a wrench on them, hook another wrench on there for some extra leverage, and loosen them. Just fast forward as we take them the rest of the way out. Now, we're going to grab on the caliper and pull it toward the outside of the vehicle. As we pull it out, that forces the piston back into the caliper and then loosens it up and it comes right off and then we can prop it up in behind. Then we take the pads out just by pulling them out of their brackets.
Now, we're putting a wrench on this 14mm bolt here. So, we want to remove this one and then this one up here. These two bolts hold the caliper bracket on. Just put a 14mm wrench on there and then hook a larger wrench onto it or use a larger handle socket and ratchet to loosen up those bolts and then remove them and remove the caliper. Fast forward here a little bit. Now, we're going to use an impact driver. We're going to load that into the screw and then you turn it counterclockwise, use a hammer and give it a good whack and it loosens up the bolt. Just fast forward as we remove the screws the rest of the way. Then hopefully your rear rotor comes off as well. If not, you can use a hammer.
Now use a sharp chisel, or you could use an old screwdriver, and remove the cap. The nut is speared here. So, we're just going to use our chisel again. Now, it's straightened out. Now, we're using a 36mm socket and an impact wrench to remove that nut. A note here: not everybody has air tools so you will need the 36mm socket but there's really no way to get around that but you could also use a large breaker bar to loosen it. It should pull off.
Make sure when you unwrap the hub that you take the keeper out and then just put the hub in and make sure the outer bearing goes in and seats correctly. Now, the new hub from 1A Auto is on there. Then, just thread on the bolt. Now, set your torque wrench to 181 foot-pounds and torque the nut on. Now, we're going to use a dull punch and serrate the nut.
Now install your new brake rotor from 1A Auto and then use the two screws. I'll fast forward as we put those back in to hold it in place. There's a small rubber plug, you want to force it out of the old rotor and then just put it into the new rotor and press in by hand, first. Then, grab a screwdriver and push it in the rest of the way.
Before you reinstall the brackets, you want to use a wire brush and clean the stainless steel slides. Some brake pads actually come with new ones. So, you either replace them or clean them up. Then, you make sure that your bolt slides are free and if they're not free or have too much or they're too sticky, pull them right out, clean them up and grease them.
Now, take your brackets and put them into place. Start the two bolts on. In a minute here, I'm just going to fast forward as I basically just get those bolts started and seated. Set your torque wrench to 45 foot-pounds. Now, you slide the outer pad in. It goes right into the slides. Then the inner one goes in the exact same way. Now, you'll want to take your caliper, use a large C-clamp and make sure you reset the piston. As you tighten it up, the piston gets pushed back into the caliper. Usually, just by pulling on it at the beginning, you're able to reset the piston, but you just want to make sure. Then you can slide the caliper right on. Now put your 12mm bolts back in. Set your torque wrench to 20 foot-pounds and tighten them up. Now put the dust cap back on. Put it in place and just tap it with a hammer.
Now, I'm going to fast forward, put the wheel back in place, start all five lug nuts on by hand first and then just preliminarily tighten them and then lower your vehicle to the ground. Now, set your torque wrench to 90 to 100 foot-pounds and torque the wheel using a star pattern.
Whenever you've had the brakes apart, just make sure that you pump the pedal a few times. Make sure it's nice and firm, and then, before you road test your vehicle just do test stops from five and 10 miles an hour, just to make sure the brakes are working properly.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
877-844-3393
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Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
If your vehicle isn't listed, search Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies
If your vehicle isn't listed, search Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies