KYB Gas-a-Just shocks and struts will match or surpass your vehicle’s Original Equipment (OE). Gas-a-Just shocks are monotube shocks, available to match your original monotubes or as a performance replacement for your twin tube shocks. Some of their perks include:
More responsive
Automatically adjusts to changing road conditions
Firmer ride
No shock fade from aeration
Item Condition:New
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Rear Shocks 1995-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Rear Shock 2000-2006 Chevy Tahoe
How To Replace Rear Shock 1992-99 GMC K1500
Created on:
Tools used
21mm Socket
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Rear Shock
Raise the Vehicle with a Floor Jack
Secure the Vehicle on Jack Stands
Use a 21mm wrench to hold the lower shock bolt
Remove the lower shock nut with a 21mm socket and ratchet
Remove one of the two 14mm bolts from the top of the shock
Hold the shock as you remove the other 14mm bolt
Pull down the shock
2. Installing the New Strut
Thread one 14mm bolt through the top of the new shock
Put the shock into place
Tighten the first 14mm bolt preliminarily
Start the second 14mm bolt and tighten it preliminarily
Tighten the two 14mm bolts
Push the lower end of the shock into place
Push the 21mm bolt through the lower end of the shock
Start the 21mm nut by hand
Use a 21mm wrench to hold the lower shock bolt
Tighten the 21mm nut to between 75-80 foot-pounds of torque
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Repeat this procedure on the other side
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear shocks on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe. If you replace one of them, we do recommend that you replace both of them. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side shock is the same procedure. It's the same part and process for the Tahoes from '95 to 2000. The items you need for this are new rear shocks from 1AAuto.com, 14mm and 21mm socket and ratchet with extension, 21mm wrench, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
You want to start off by removing this 21mm bolt and then you're going to remove these two 14mm bolts. Using a 21mm socket and ratchet and a 21mm wrench, you just want to remove that nut. Once the nut's removed, use the socket and ratchet on the other side and just start twisting out the bolt. Now, use a 14mm socket and ratchet with an extension to remove those two upper bolts and we'll just fast forward as Don does this. Once those are removed, the shock will pull down.
Up front is the old shock, in the back is the new shock from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they will fit the same. You will have to just apply some pressure to shrink the new shock. Feed your new shock up into place with a bolt and a 14mm socket and then just tighten it into place. Really, you only need to tighten it preliminarily and then you should start the other bolt. Once you have both bolts started, just got back and forth tightening them up until it's nice and firm. Now, push the shock in and then forward and then line it up and push the bolt through. Then, just replace the nut and washer on the other end and tighten that up with your socket and ratchet and the 21mm wrench. Torque this lower bolt to 75-80 foot pounds and you're all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Jack Stands
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Gloves
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm wrench
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Hammer
18mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
13mm Wrench
Okay, so we have removed the wheel just so we have a little bit more room to work. You don't necessarily have to.
One of the first things we're going to do is remove these 13-milimeter headed nuts. If you were to feel on the backside, you're also going to feel a 13-millimeter headed bolt end on the other side. So, we'll first get our socket on there. You might need to bonk it on there a couple times. Obviously, I have a lot of rust on mine. I've got my 13-millimeter wrench, put it up there. Let's see about removing this. Now we'll just do the same to the other one. Get that bolt out of there.
Now we're going to remove the lower bolt right here, using an 18 on this side and a 21-millimeter on the nut side. There we are. Take this right out of here.
Now it's going to be time to compress the rear shock. You want to compress it at least three to five times to activate the gases inside. We'll get this strap right off of here, let it completely decompress, and then recompress it, like I said, three to five times.
Time to get the shock in here. I'm just going to go ahead and line it up, kind of where it's going to go, and put my bolt through. The bolt is going come through from the center. Slide it right through like that. Then, you have your emergency brake cable. Make sure you get that on there the way it's supposed to go. Next is going to be the washer, and then the nut. Perfect.
So, the next thing we need to do is jack up the rear differential so we can bring the shock up to where it's going to mount into the mounting frame. All right, that's pretty close. I'm going to leave that just like that and grab my new bolts. Okay, let's snug them up.
Let's snug up this lower bolt. Make sure your emergency brake bracket is where it's supposed to be. This looks good.
Get our wrench up there. Let's torque this to 13 foot-pounds. That feels good. And do the same to the other one. Let's torque this bottom bolt to 74 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Let's get this out of here. If you did happen to remove the wheel, just go ahead and replace it, and then torque it to 120 foot-pounds.
KG5479
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