2014 Mazda 5 Front 6 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA48883

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Hey everyone, Sue here at 1A Auto. And today we're installing outer tie rod ends on our '07 Mazda 3 sedan. These came from 1A Auto, so if you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1A Auto.

Keep in mind before this repair, set up an appointment with your local alignment shop and you're going to need an alignment afterwards.

We're going to loosen the lug nuts with the weight of the car on the tire and it's a 21 millimeter. Now you're going to raise the vehicle with a jack and jack stands or a two post lift if you have that. Now I can take the lug nuts off. It's up in the air.

This is the inner tie rod end. It has a bellow boot that covers the end that screws into the power steering rack, and this is your outer tie rod end. This is a jam nut. This is where adjustments are made for a tow on a car. I'm going to start by spraying the jam nut and the upper part of the outer tire rod end. Let that soak. I'm going to break the jam nut free first. It's a 24 millimeter on this Mazda 3. Now that's broken free and spinning I have to undo the top nut to the outer tie rod end, take this cotter pin out. We discard it because we're going to use a new one. The nut is a 14 millimeter socket. It's kind of rusted so just wiggle it on down there. I'm going to break it free. Now I'm going to take a hammer and hit the end of the knuckle where the tie rod end goes in to pop the stud out.

Here we have outer tie rod ends on our '07 Mazda 3 sedan. This one is from 1aauto.com, and this is the one we took out. The one from 1aauto.com is stamped clearly, R for right side, the passenger side, comes with its own new castle nut and a cotter pin. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.

Now I'm just going to put some anti-seize on the threads. Now install the outer tie rod end. Thread it on up to the jam nut. I'm going to bring it up, put it in the knuckle, install my castle nut. The new one is a 16 millimeter socket. There is no torque for this. I just really want it down tight. There we go.

Now I can install my cotter pin. Just fold that over. That just stops the nut from possibly on back threading out. I like to squeeze all sharp edges down, only fair to somebody. Now we're going to take our wrench and tighten up the jam nut. You want that snug right down because you do have to drive it to the alignment shop. That's a 24 millimeter wrench, same as the old one. There we go. Once I lower this to the ground always tighten wheels in a star pattern. And our wheel torque on our '07 Mazda 3 is 87 foot-pounds. Always go around twice.

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