2013 Nissan Rogue Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA10856

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2009 Nissan Rogue all-wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front brakes. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need these parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Crack all of your lug nuts loose with a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make this easier to show you what's going on, but this can easily be done at home with a jack and jack stands. Remove the rest of your lug nuts, either by hand or with the help of a 21 millimeter socket. These are kind of deep into the wheel, so it helps to use a socket. Remove your wheel and tire from the vehicle.

Using a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet, loosen and remove the two caliper guide pin bolts. Remove your caliper, and using a bungee cord, mechanic's wire, or some zip ties, secure the caliper up and out of harm's way.

Loosen the two 19 millimeter caliper bracket bolts with a 19 millimeter socket, and you can use a ratchet, but ours are pretty stuck, so we're going to be cracking them loose with a breaker bar, and then switching to a ratchet once we've got them moving. You can then remove the caliper bracket from the vehicle. Remove your rotor. Remove the pads from the caliper bracket.

Here we have our old brake parts that we removed from our vehicle, and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same dimensionally. We have the same size rotors here. We also have the same brake pads. However, our old ones, obviously, are worn down from being on the vehicle for some time, and these actually aren't quite bad enough that I would replace these normally, but you can see the condition of our rotor is pretty terrible, so we're going to go ahead and install these new brake pads and rotors. They're going to go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, get your vehicle stopping safely, and fix you up right.

Pop out your old retaining clips, and ours actually aren't in bad shape, so we're going to clean these up in just a second. Using a wire brush, clean off the surfaces of the caliper bracket. Now, you don't have to make these perfect. You really just want to remove the heavy buildup of rust and other debris. We'll then clean of the brake shims the same way. If yours are heavily rusted and corroded, or won't come clean, go ahead and put a new set on there, but ours look pretty good.

Put a small amount of brake grease onto the caliper bracket. Reinstall your shims. Apply a new coat of grease to those as well. Remove the brake pins and grease those up as well. If the old grease on there looks like it's in rough shape, go ahead and wipe it off with a paper towel. Reinstall it until it pops into the boot, and do the same thing for the other pin.

Using a wire brush, clean off the rust on the hub surface. Ours is pretty bad, so we're actually going to use some power tools for this. You should do the same thing if you have them available to you. After you've cleaned off the majority of the rust from the hub surface, apply a thin coat of brake grease. This will help to keep future rust from building up, as well as preventing our rotor from getting frozen on there.

Install your rotor backwards and spray it down with brake parts cleaner to remove all of the chemicals they put to prevent it from rusting while they're in storage. Then, flip it around and install it the right way, and spray down this side as well.

Reinstall the brake caliper bracket, as well as the two 19 millimeter bolts. Install your new brake pads into the shims. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the back of the pads as well.

Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, slowly and carefully compress the piston back into the brake caliper. Remove the bungee cord, or whatever you used to secure your brake caliper out of the way, and reinstall the caliper as well as your two 14 millimeter bolts, which we'll tighten down as well. Tighten up your 14 millimeter bolts with a socket and ratchet. There's no need to counter-hold these, because they have flats on them that will engage into the caliper, prevent them from rotating.

Reinstall your wheel and tire, as well as all five of your lug nuts. Now, I'm just going to use a 21 millimeter socket, and bring the lug nuts down as tight as I can by hand using that. With the vehicle lowered partially, so just a little bit of weight is on the tires to keep them from turning, we'll torque our lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

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