Replaces
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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the upper engine mount on a 2002 Volvo V70 non-turbo. It's pretty much the same operation for '01 through '07 non-turbo V70s, as well as the S60 and the S80. In order to do this repair, you'll need a 14 and 15mm socket, socket wrench and extension, a Torx 30 socket, an 18mm wrench, a zip tie and, of course, the new engine mount from 1A Auto.
On the top of the engine you're going to see a plastic cover. It's in two pieces. It covers the ignition coils and the timing belt. There are eight Torx 30 screws that go into it. Use your Torx 30 bit and a driver and remove those. Then, go ahead and pull that cover up and out of the way.
On the upper engine support bracket, on the driver's side end, you're going to find two 14mm bolts. Use your socket and socket wrench and remove those. If your vehicle has the zip tie that ties the return hose to the power steering reservoir to the upper strut mount, go ahead and cut that off and then, just as you did on the driver's side, remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the upper engine bracket into place. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through that.
The actual bolt that goes through the engine mount is a 15mm bolt and the nut is an 18mm nut. Use a combination of wrenches or socket wrenches, whatever you have, to loosen that and then take that bolt and nut out. After that bolt is out, go ahead and lift that upper engine support bracket out. Use a 14mm socket and your socket wrench and loosen up on the four 14mm bolts that go into the cylinder head. Go ahead and unscrew them entirely, but leave them in, because they are different lengths and you're going to want to swap them over to the new mount one by one. I'll fast-forward as I do that. Take the engine mount out with the bolts still in it and put it aside.
You'll see the part that we just pulled out and the new part from 1A Auto is exactly the same. Swap the bolts over one by one, going into the new part as they came out of the old one. Then go ahead and put the new mount with the bolts in it into the cylinder head, where it is located, and then, start tightening them down. Go around and tighten them equally, being careful not to over-tighten them, as you are putting steel bolts into an aluminum cylinder head.
Reinstall the upper engine bracket. Reinstall the 14mm bolts on the passenger side and tighten those down. I'll fast-forward as I do that. Now do the same for the driver side's two 14mm bolts, and I will fast-forward as I tighten those up. Reinstall the bolt that goes through the engine mount and the upper engine bracket and tighten that down. Put a new zip tie through the upper engine bracket and around that return hose on your power steering. Keep it away from the belts. Reinstall the plastic upper engine cover/coil cover there, and reinstall the eight Torx 30 screws that hold that in place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today we're working on our 2004 Volvo XC90. This is the all-wheel drive version, and I'm going to show you how to do an up-top or upper motor mount. Going to be super easy, I can do it. You can do it too.
If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out 1aauto.com. Thanks.
Okay, so one of the first things we have to do after we pop the hood is just take off the cover right here. It comes across the whole valve cover, and then there's another one that comes up along the top right there. Both those need to come out. You're going to use a T25 bit. It looks like a star. That just goes right in here.
You can use a ratchet if you want to. Just show you what the bolt looks like. That's not really the best, not the cleanest, but it's not my fault. That's what it looks like. We'll set this aside, and we're going to remove all the rest of the bolts.
All right, so we'll just get this stuff up and out of here. Just a little cover. There's your timing belt, not that that matters for this job, but ... The ignition coil's under here, there's going to be spark plugs and everything under there.
Here's our mount. Should be fairly easy to do. We've got a bolt that comes through here. We've got two bolts here, and then two bolts on the rearward side. All of it looks fairly easy. What I'm going to do first though is I'm going to get a floor jack and a piece of wood, and I'm going to raise the, or support the engine a little bit, just in case this is holding it up at all.
There's going to be a couple of other motor mounts under here that I'm sure are doing their job well, but just to help them along and just in case, we'll say, we need to be able to move this up or down, to be able to line up the bolt at the end.
I'll grab a floor jack now and we'll move along. Okay, so we've got our jack with our rubber pad. We're going to bring it right in and go right underneath the oil pan there, along an edge. I'm going to go along this edge, because this is the side that I'm going to be working on.
I never like to jack in the center of an oil pan. There we are. I'm just applying very light pressure. I'm not trying to lift the vehicle up off the ground here. Just put that like that. Now we can get started under the hood.
We're just going to take off this rubber boot right here. Pretty simple, slides right off. We'll set that aside. Next, we're going to take out this bolt. There's a nut on the other side. We'll grab our wrench and a ratchet for this side, and we'll remove this bolt.
We're going to use our 18 millimeter on this side, and a 15 millimeter on this side. There's our nut and bolt. This can move around now. The only thing holding in this mount is the four bolts. Let's get those out of there.
We're going to take out these bolts right here. 14 millimeter. If you have access to an air gun, it'll be much quicker than this. For the purpose of this video, I'm just going to do it like this. You can get that one that's hiding all the way in the back there. That one's probably going to be easier with something different. Just because there's something in the way there. There's those. The last one we have is all the way back in this corner right here. This is in the way. I'm going to try and get something a little different. I'll probably just go with a shallow socket and still use my ratchet and see what we can do.
Okay. You have minimal room for this one, but once you get it broken free, should come out fairly easily. There we are. This is the rear left, or driver's side. As you can tell, these are different. It's important to make sure you remember where everything goes. If you're worried about forgetting, you can either draw something or you can just go like this with your new one. Set that aside. I'm going to take out the other two here.
There we are. There we are. We got two more different bolts. Grab our upper mount out of there.
Here we are friends, a quick product comparison for you over here. Right here, we have our original upper mount for our 2004 Volvo XC90 all-wheel drive version, and over here we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part. Both these parts are created equal. You've got your four mounting holes, super important. You got the side over here, brand new rubber bushing. You don't have to worry about it. Even comes with a little extra plate on there for added support.
This is a quality piece. As you could tell, it's the same exact shape. With all that said, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a great piece to install onto the vehicle, so I'm going to go ahead and do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out 1aauto.com. Thanks
Okay. It's time to get our brand new quality 1A Auto mount into the vehicle. It's going to be very easy. We're just going to go like this, slide it right along here. It should just want to slide right in there. There it is. Cool. We've got our bolts. I just put mine up, so I'd remember where everything is. Got this one all the way over here. This one went on the passenger side rear, driver's side rear.
I'm not going to tighten any of these down or even bottom them out until all of them are started. The longer of the two for the front goes on the left, or passenger side, I should say. Smaller one. I'll grab this one. That through right there. Okay, everything's started. Let's go ahead and tighten it down.
All right. Now we're going to bottom out these bolts here, the ones that hold the mount to the engine first. I'm going to continue with my 14 millimeter, get that on there. I'm just going to snug this up now.
There we are. All right. Okay. Now, we're going to continue with our torque wrench. We're going to go with 50 Newton meters with our 14 millimeter socket.
Okay. Now, we're going to switch over to our 15 millimeter socket. We're going to tighten up this bolt right here. I'm going to hold the backside of the nut with an 18, and we're going to torque this down to 80 Newton meters. There we are, just check it one more time real quick. Tight. All four of those bolts are tight. We can move ahead to the next step.
We're just going to get our jack out of the way. Okay, let's get some covers back on this. I'm just going to come through like this, right underneath here. Just bring it over. There we are. We've got our other cover. This has little pitons that are going to go into there. Just like that. Bonk bonk.
Cool. I'm just going to grab a few of our bolts up here. We're going to go back to our T25. We're going to get these bolts in here. All right. Down to the nitty gritty here. Get this last one. There we are, tight.
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