Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Lower Control Arms (2) Front Inner & Outer Tie Rod Assemblies
Specification
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Control Arm 1999-2009 Volkswagen Jetta
How to Replace Tie Rod End 1999-2005 Volkswagen Jetta
How to Replace Ball Joint 1999-2005 Volkswagen Jetta
Created on:
Tools used
Hammer
18mm Wrench
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
Floor Jack
7mm Allen Wrench
13mm Wrench
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the lug nut covers with a 7mm Allen bit
Push the lug nut key into the special lug nut
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Lower Control Arm
Remove the first 18mm bolt from the control arm with a ratchet and pipe for leverage
Loosen the second 18mm bolt with the ratchet and pipe
Hold the bolt with an 18mm wrench
Remove the second 18mm bolt with the ratchet
Remove the 16mm bolt from the sway bar link
Attach locking pliers between the wheel knuckle and the ball joint nut
Remove the ball joint nut with a 19mm wrench
Pull the wheel aside
Pull the control arm down and out
3. Removing the Ball Joint from the Control Arm
Remove the three 13mm bolts that hold the ball joint in place
Pull the ball joint out of the control arm
4. Attaching the Ball Joint to the New Control Arm
Put the new ball joint into place on the control arm
Put the ball joint bracket into place
Thread the 13mm bolts through from the bottom
Tighten the 13mm bolts to 40 foot-pounds of torque
5. Installing the Lower Control Arm
Push the control arm into place
Tap it into place with a hammer if necessary
Push the 18mm bolts and associated nuts into place
Push the ball joint into the wheel knuckle
Put the 19mm nut onto the ball joint
Tighten the 19mm nut
Tighten the 18mm bolts to 70 foot-pounds
Insert the 16mm bolt into the sway bar link
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the lug nut caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the lower control arm on this 2004 Volkswagen Jetta. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new front lower control arm from 1AAuto.com; 16, 17, and 18 millimeter sockets and ratchet; 13 millimeter and 18 millimeter wrenches; 7 millimeter Allen bit; locking pliers; torque wrench; jack and jack stands; and a hammer.
Start off by using a 7mm Allen bit, and just prying out these lug nut caps. We'll fast forwards as he does the rest of those. You'll notice that this lug nut is a little different than the others. You're going to need a key to remove it, and that key can be found right here next to your jack stand in your truck. You can just push it into that lug nut, and now it removes just like a regular lug nut. If you don't have the benefit of air power tools, then loosen up the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle and them remove them the rest of the way. Once the lug nuts are removed, the wheel will pull right off.
Your lower control arm is located right here, and you want to start off by removing these two 18mm bolts. You're going to see on the first one we use a socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to get it going. For this bolt, you're going to need both hands to remove, so first just break it free. Then you're going to want to put an 18mm wrench on the top of it. Then use your socket and ratchet for the bolt itself. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Next, remove this 16mm bolt in your sway bar link. At the top of this ball joint there's a 13mm nut, and you want to go ahead and remove that. To do that, you want to put some locking pliers in between the gasket on the ball joint and the wheel knuckle. Using a 13mm wrench remove the nut at the top. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Once that's removed just pull the wheel away, and then pull the control arm down and out. Next, remove these three 13mm bolts that hold the ball joint in place. Once you've removed the last one, your ball joint will pull free.
On the left is your old control arm, on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Now, you would take your old ball joint and push it into your new control arm, but we're just going to replace our ball joint with a new one. Then you just put it into your control arm, put this bracket right here, and then start twisting in your bolts from the other side. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up.
Push the lower control arm back into place. You may need a hammer to help push it back. Then put one of your bolts in, and if doesn't fit, hammer it back a little further. Push the bolt in all the way, and then put the nut on the other side of it. Just make sure the other side lines up, push that bolt back into place. Now you can line up your ball joint and push that up into the wheel knuckle. Then just replace that nut at the top of the ball joint. We'll fast forward as Don tightens up those two bolts and that nut at the top of the ball joint. The nut on our new ball joint was 19mm. Now torque those two 18mm bolts to 70 foot pound. Replace that 16mm bolt and your sway bar link, and tighten it up. Push the wheel back into place and line up the holes for the lug bolts. Then replace the lug bolts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to tighten these preliminarily, lower the vehicle and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then lower the vehicle and torque each lug nut to 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your lug nut caps and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Measuring Tape
19mm Socket
Hammer
6mm Allen Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
7mm Allen Wrench
17mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the lug nut caps with a 7mm Allen bit
Insert the lug nut key into the locking lug nut
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Measure the distance from the inner tie rod boot to the end of the outer tie rod
Record that measurement
Loosen the 22mm nut that attaches the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod
Use a 6mm Allen wrench and a 19mm wrench to remove the nut at the bottom of the tie rod end
Loosen the tie rod by striking the steering knuckle with a hammer
Pull the tie rod up and out of the steering knuckle
Twist off the outer tie rod
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod
Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle
Fasten the nut onto the outer tie rod with a 19mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench
Tighten the 19mm nut to 50 foot-pounds of torque
Measure the distance from the inner tie rod boot to the end of the outer tie rod
Check that this is the same distance as recorded in Step 2
Tighten the 22mm nut that attaches the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Attach the lug nut covers
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod on this 2004 Volkswagen Jetta. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, a 17mm socket and ratchet, 19 and 22mm wrenches, 6 and 7mm Allen wrenches or bits, torque wrench, jack, and jack stands, and depending on the condition of your vehicle, you may also need a hammer. It's important to note that after you do any work on your inner or outer tie rods that you should get a professional alignment done after the procedure.
Start off using a 7mm Allen wrench and just prying out these lug nut caps. I'll fast-forward as he does the rest of those. You'll notice that this lug nut is a little different than the others. You're going to need a key to remove it, and that key can be found right here next to your jack stand in your trunk. You can just push it into that lug nut, and now it removes just like a regular lug nut. If you don't have air-powered tools, you're going to want to loosen up these lug nuts, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Once the lug nuts are removed the wheel will pull right off. On the back of your wheel, right here, is your outer tie rod. You want to measure from right here to the end of your outer tie rod, and write down that measurement. Then using a 22mm wrench, just loosen up this nut right here. Use a 6mm Allen bit or wrench up through the bottom of your tie rod with a 19mm wrench to loosen up and remove that nut. We'll just fast-forward as Don does this. Our tie rod lifts up and out. Typically, it will put up a bit more of a fight, so you just want to hammer right her on the knuckle, and then you should be able to pull it up and out too. Now, just remove it from the inner tie rod buy just twisting it off. We'll fast-forward as Don does this.
On the left is the old outer tie rod. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Twist your new outer tie rod into place. Keep twisting it so that it's tight on there. Then push it straight down into the knuckle. Replace the nut. Using your Allen wrench and your wrench, you want to tighten up that nut. Then, torque this to about 50 foot-pounds. Then measure, make sure it's the same distance as what you had before. If it is, tighten up this nut.
Push the wheel back into place and line up the holes for the lug bolts. Then, replace the lug bolts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to tighten these preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then lower the vehicle, and torque each lug nut to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your lug nut caps and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Hammer
Torque Wrench
18mm Wrench
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
7mm Allen Wrench
13mm Wrench
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the lug nut covers with a 7mm Allen bit
Push the lug nut key into the special lug nut
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Lower Control Arm
Remove the first 18mm bolt from the control arm with a ratchet and pipe for leverage
Loosen the second 18mm bolt with the ratchet and pipe
Hold the bolt with an 18mm wrench
Remove the second 18mm bolt with the ratchet
Remove the 16mm bolt from the sway bar link
Attach locking pliers between the wheel knuckle and the ball joint nut
Remove the ball joint nut with a 19mm wrench
Pull the wheel aside
Pull the control arm down and out
3. Removing the Ball Joint from the Control Arm
Remove the three 13mm bolts that hold the ball joint in place
Pull the ball joint out of the control arm
4. Attaching the New Ball Joint to the Control Arm
Put the new ball joint into place on the control arm
Put the ball joint bracket into place
Thread the 13mm bolts through from the bottom
Tighten the 13mm bolts to 40 foot-pounds of torque
5. Installing the Lower Control Arm
Push the control arm into place
Tap it into place with a hammer if necessary
Push the 18mm bolts and associated nuts into place
Push the ball joint into the wheel knuckle
Put the 19mm nut onto the ball joint
Tighten the 19mm nut
Tighten the 18mm bolts to 70 foot-pounds
Insert the 16mm bolt into the sway bar link
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the lug nut caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace a front lower ball joint on this 2004 Volkswagen Jetta. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new ball joint from 1AAuto.com, 16, 17, and 18mm socket and ratchet; 13, 18, and 19mm wrenches, 7mm Allen bit, locking pliers, torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and a hammer.
Start off by using a 7mm Allen bit, and just prying out these lug nut caps. We'll fast forwards as he does the rest of those. You'll notice that this lug nut is a little different than the others. You're going to need a key to remove it, and that key can be found right here next to your jack stand in your truck. You can just push it into that lug nut, and now it removes just like a regular lug nut. If you don't have the benefit of air power tools, then loosen up the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle and them remove them the rest of the way. Once the lug nuts are removed, the wheel will pull right off.
Your lower control arm is located right here, and you want to start off by removing these two 18mm bolts. You're going to see on the first one we use a socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to get it going. For this bolt, you're going to need both hands to remove, so first just break it free. Then you're going to want to put an 18mm wrench on the top of it. Then use your socket and ratchet for the bolt itself. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Next, remove this 16mm bolt in your sway bar link. At the top of this ball joint there's a 13mm nut, and you want to go ahead and remove that. To do that, you want to put some locking pliers in between the gasket on the ball joint and the wheel knuckle. Using a 13mm wrench remove the nut at the top. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Once that's removed just pull the wheel away, and then pull the control arm down and out. Next, remove these three 13mm bolts that hold the ball joint in place. Once those are removed your ball joint pulls right out.
On the left is your old ball joint, on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Take your new ball joint, and you can see we're using a new control arm just because of the condition of our older one. You just put that bracket into place and then put the bolts up through the bottom. We'll just fast forward as Don does this, and then tightens those up. Then torque each of these to 40 foot-pounds.
Push the lower control arm back into place. You may need a hammer to help push it back. Then put one of your bolts in, and if doesn't fit, hammer it back a little further. Push the bolt in all the way, and then put the nut on the other side of it. Just make sure the other side lines up, push that bolt back into place. Now you can line up your ball joint and push that up into the wheel knuckle. Then just replace that nut at the top of the ball joint. We'll fast forward as Don tightens up those two bolts and that nut at the top of the ball joint. The nut on our new ball joint was 19mm. Now torque those two 18mm bolts to 70 foot pound. Replace that 16mm bolt and your sway bar link, and tighten it up. Push the wheel back into place and line up the holes for the lug bolts. Then replace the lug bolts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to tighten these preliminarily, lower the vehicle and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then lower the vehicle and torque each lug nut to 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your lug nut caps and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA58660
In Stock
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Excellent product
Jack
March 15, 2017
Very fast shipping. All the parts fit exactly as described and I will buy from 1A again and recommend to my friends.
L
October 15, 2018
I have had this kit on my 2001 Golf for over 8 months now. My car has been lowered and I drive on horrible NH roads every day. I have my car on the lift pretty often (it is a VW) and the front end is just as tight as the day I put these in.
If you are thinking about this kit or a similar kit from 1A Auto, get it. You will not be disappointed and you will have some cash left over to buy some other pieces that your VW probably needs.
Purchase auto parts with ease
Darrio
April 28, 2019
I'm so happy to purchase my parts for my car with A1auto
There wed page is easy to work and I always get the right parts that fit. It's a no brainer make your next purchase
You won't Regret it
1999 VW Beetle Front Suspension Kit
R
October 10, 2019
Parts are of good quality and fit perfectly. Shipping time was as expected. Very pleased with this purchase...
Control arm kit
Yubini
April 23, 2021
The price was good. I'm very satisfied with the quality of parts you carry.
Customer Q&A
Do I need to buy the control arm bushings as well as this product?September 15, 2015
Katie B
10
No, this kit came with everything needed for the control arm. I installed this kit on my car.
Just a little extra note on this install:
The only issue I came across was not the parts, but with the car... All YouTube DIY videos show the installation on the passenger side... Well, that is because the driver side SUCKS. The ATF pan is in the way of the front bolt on the arm. I had to remove three subframe bolts and jack the engine up to provide enough clearance to remove the bolt to take the old arm off and reinstall the new one. P.S. The passenger side is a breeze.
September 15, 2015
Kimberly S
10
No you don't need too everything you need comes with the set
September 15, 2015
Jeffrey M
10
You should not have to. The control arms I got had the bushings already installed as is shown in the photo. Good luck!
September 15, 2015
Paul M
10
No. They are included and pressed in, ready to go on the control arms.
September 15, 2015
Frank F
10
Hello Katie if you are thinking to remplace your struts and shocks you can get A arms set is more better and the price is perfect and easy to instal.l
September 15, 2015
Jaime J
10
This product has the bushing already pressed inside of the control arm.
September 16, 2015
Darlyn S
What are the grease packets for that came with the ball joints?January 18, 2017
Kolar C
10
Hello Kolar. Thank you for your inquiry, but these ball joints are prepacked with grease, and are sealed units. These do not have grease fittings, so they are not serviceable.
January 19, 2017
Tim K
Are the control arms the same style
for driver and passenger side?July 3, 2017
Mike M
10
Yes they're the same you just attach the end attaching bolt thingy to match whichever side. Piece of cake to do.
July 3, 2017
Mark F
10
Yes, exactly the same. The way you install the ball joints is the only difference, Mike. Hope that helps.
July 3, 2017
James C
10
Yes they are the same... it's a easy simple fix. That will save you a lot of money!
July 3, 2017
Leonel A
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