Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to be working with our Toyota Camry 2.2-liter inline-4. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your old CV axle on the passenger side.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this car, as well as many other makes and models. If you need this part for your vehicle, follow the link in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 12-32mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, torque wrench, needle nose lock pliers, flat punch, hammer, breaker bar, drain bucket, jack and jack stands.
Break all of your lug nuts loose while the vehicle is still on the ground. You're going to need a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Install your jack under the vehicle. Line it up with the pinch weld. Jack the vehicle up high enough that you can get a stand underneath, making sure you have enough clearance to remove your tire or do whatever you have to do under the vehicle.
Stall your jack stand onto this unibody frame rail under the vehicle. With the vehicle raised and supported, remove your lug nuts the rest of the way. If you need a little more room to work, you can pull the hub cap off, remove your wheel from the hub. We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the CV axle. You have to straighten it out. Grab the end and work it out of the axle. Remove the lock cap. Insert a pry bar between the wheel studs. I'm bracing mine against the lift, but you can brace yours against the ground on the jack and jack stands when you use the 30 millimeter axle socket and a cheater pipe on a breaker bar to break the axle not loose. Once the axle nut is cracked loose, you can remove it almost fully.
We'll leave our prime bar there for when it gets a little tight on the threads to make sure that it doesn't spin. Place a punch in the center hole of the axle and tap it to release it from the splines. Remove the two strut bolts with the 22 millimeter socket. We're going to use a breaker bar to start and then switch to a ratchet and use a wrench to hold the bolts in place.
You can press in on the hub, squiggle it a little to get the bolts out, and then remove the spindle from the strut. This plastic clip will come off with it, just move that away for now. You can now remove the end of the axle from the hub. Remove this 14 millimeter bolt at the bottom of the barring at the end of your axle shaft, and you use a socket and ratchet. Using a pair of pliers, push together these two tabs on the snap ring and remove it from the bearing. Once it's off the bearing and onto the CV axle, use a pry bar on each side to make sure you put even pressure out on the axle.
You may need to use a large punch and hammer to hit the back of the CV axle until the bearing is free of the bracket. Be sure you have a drain bucket underneath the transmission for any fluid that might come out. Move the axle assembly from the vehicle.
Here we have our old CV axle that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are identical with the same splines and threads. We have the same joints, ABS tone ring, and the same axle shaft length. It comes with the new center bearing here, the same threads and dust boot going into the transmission itself. We also get a new nut and a new lock app for the end. Those should be replaced with any CV axle replacement.
CV axles tend to go bed from torn boots, letting all the grease out and drying up the joint inside or the joint inside going bad for another reason. It can bind or pop. You can also hear a clicking noise when you turn the wheel. These bearings also have the potential to go bad as it's another failure point on the vehicle. Due to the length of this shaft, they had to support it in the middle somewhere. If your CV axle is making noise binding or popping out, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Reinstall the CV axle through the bearing bracket and into the transmission being careful not to score the bearings or splines off of anything on the way in. You may have to rotate it a little to line up and push it into place. Reinstall the snap ring around the CV axle. Make sure you line the ears up on the side. Set the snap ring in and compress it with your pliers. Push it back into the channel.
Reinstall the 14 millimeter bearing bolt for the socket and ratchet and torque the 24 foot-pounds. Reinstall the end of the axle into the spindle. Be sure not to pop the joint out on the inboard side while doing this. Line up the spindle into the strut and start your two 22 millimeter bolts.
Start your two 22 millimeter nuts for the strut bolts. Reinstall the plastic retainer for the ABS sensor line and tighten up the two 22 millimeter bolts for the strut with a socket ratchet and lunch. Torque to 256 foot-pounds. Within the axle nut on by hand, make sure it's fully seated. We'll reinstall our wheel and tire.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Tighten down the nuts. Put the vehicle onto the ground so you can then torque the axle nut. Check that they're all seated. If you've removed the tire, only lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground. With partial weight of the vehicle on the ground, torque your lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Then you can remove your jack the rest of the way. Torque the axle nuts to 217 foot-pounds. Install the walk cap over the axle nut and the new cotter pin. Then the cotter pin around the end of the axle. Reinstall your hub cap and you're good to go.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video we're going to be showing you how to change out the driver's side CV axle in this 1998 Toyota Camry 2.2-liter inline-4. This information is the same from 1992 to 2001.
Some symptoms of a bad CV axle include a clicking sound when turning—especially at full lock, you'll really hear these start to make a clicking sound, and you might even get a little bit of kind a clunk feeling in the floor pan; you may also notice that the boots have ripped and that they're spraying grease on the underside of the car, which can contaminate your brakes and cause braking issues, as well as making a mess under there, eventually drying out the joint and creating that clicking sound anyway.
If you like this video, please click "Subscribe." We have a ton of more information on this vehicle and many other makes and models. If you want this part for your car, you can follow the link in the description. It's available from 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 12-32mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, torque wrench, needle nose lock pliers, flat punch, hammer, breaker bar, drain bucket, jack, and jack stands.
Break all of your lug nuts loose while the vehicle is still on the ground. You're going to need a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Install your jack under the vehicle. Line it up with the pinch weld. Jack the vehicle up high enough that you can get a stand underneath, making sure you have enough clearance to remove your tire or do whatever you have to do under the vehicle.
Install your jack stand onto this uni-body frame rail under the vehicle. You need to work on the rear of the vehicle, put your jack stand underneath, and just ahead of the lower control arm here right by the tow point. Once the weight is on your stands, give the vehicle a little shake. Make sure that they're on there secure. Repeat these steps on the opposite side.
Make sure that you bring the vehicle up so that when it sits on the other set of jack stands the vehicle will be level. You can now lower your vehicle onto the stands on this side. With the vehicle raised and supported remove your lug nuts the rest of the way. If you need a little more room to work, you can pull the hubcap off. Remove your wheel from the hub.
We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.
Bend down the cotter pin. Use a pair of needle noise pliers, or if you're having a hard time straightening it out, you can also cut it at the straightest point with a pair of side cutters. The top of our cotter pin broke in half, so now we'll grab it with a pair of needle nose locking pliers and work it out one side at a time.
Remove the lock cover on the nut using the 32 millimeter breaker bar and a pry bar braced against the lug nuts. We'll break our axle nut socket loose and remove it. Leave the nut flush with the end of the axle. This will allow us to tap the splines free from the hub without risking damage to the axle or the threads. Now, remove the axle nut the rest of the way.
We'll remove this 12 millimeter bolt retaining the ABS wire and the flexible brake line with a socket, ratchet, and socket extension. Remove the line, the ABS harness, and this plastic clip, and allow them to hang freely. Using the 22 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, break the nuts loose for the strut. Remove them the rest of the way with a ratchet.
Remove the nuts, and these bolts are splined, so we'll have to carefully tap them out of the spindle. We're going to use a flat punch and a hammer to tap the bolts out of the spindle. Now, you could tap the ends of the bolt very carefully, but there's a lot of risk of damaging threads there. We'll set the punch up in the center of the bolt. Once they're most of the way through, we should be able to rock the spindle and finish removing them. Pull the spindle down and out of the strut.
Be careful of this flex line to make sure that you don't put too much tension and tear it. Now we can remove the CV axle from the spindle and allow it to hang down. Follow the CV axle back to the transmission here.
We're going to set two pry bars as close to 3 and 9 as we can, because prying out evenly is the key to removing these axles smoothly. We're going to carefully work the snap ring out of its holder inside of the differential. Another method you can try is using a large punch on the back of the CV axle. Be sure to have a drain bucket placed underneath the CV axle before popping it out with your pry bars.
Once you've dislodged the CV axle snap ring from the differential, you can fully remove the axle. Make sure that that snap ring is still on the end of the shaft, because the new axle won't go in if that's lodged inside the transmission.
Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, there are some minor aesthetic differences here. However, this is a direct fit part. See, we have the same splines, threads, and it even comes with a new axle nut and a new cap for it. We'll have to put a new cotter pin in there as well.
I have the ABS sensor ring here. The actual shaft diameter is a little bit thicker on our new part. That makes it a little bit stronger. The difference on the inboard joint here is that this channel goes all the way around, making it easier to hook on at that 9 and 3 points to pop it out of the transmission should you ever have to do that again, whereas it's kind of hard to line up and get on both sides evenly to pop it out. It also has a new dust boot on the end to keep stuff from getting into the transmission, like road grime and debris. We even have a new snap ring that's going to lock in to the differential and keep this inboard joint in place.
If your CV axles are clicking or have torn boots and are throwing grease, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in, direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Get some transmission fluid onto your finger, and lubricate the splines on the inboard joint that are going to be going in to the differential, just to make sure they go in a little bit smoother and that they don't damage the seal on the way in. Set the axle back into position.
You may have to wiggle it a little to get the splines to line up. Work the joint back into the transmission. Line up the splines back into the hub. Once they're in place, we'll start the axle nut on a few threads by hand to make sure that it doesn't fall out of the hub while we line up the bottom of the strut.
Lift up and line up the bolt holes in the spindle. Once it's lined up, reinstall your strut bolts. These go in from the front. Simply push in from the top. Align up the top hole, and tap the bolt shoulders back into place.
Start your 22 millimeter nuts. Torque the two nuts to 156 foot-pounds. Snap the ABS retainer back into place. Lock it over the slot here in the bracket. Hook the ABS sensor back into the bracket, as well as the flexible brake line.
Reinstall your 12 millimeter bolt. We'll tighten that down with a socket ratchet and extension. Use your 30 millimeter socket and a ratchet to tighten down the axle nut.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Tighten down the nuts. Put the vehicle onto the ground so you can then torque the axle nut. Check that they're all seated. If you've removed the tire, only lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground. With partial weight of the vehicle on the ground, torque your lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Then you can remove your jack the rest of the way. Torque the axle nuts to 217 foot-pounds. Install the lock cap over the axle nut and a new cotter pin. Bend the cotter pin around the end of the axle. Reinstall your hub cap, and you're good to go.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
