2002 Ford Crown Victoria Front 12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA70019

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to do an outer tie rod end on this 2000 Crown Vic, very similar for any of this era of Crown Vics as well as the Town Cars. As far as alignment goes, it's recommended that you have your car aligned after you do a job like this, but if your car is still steering straight down the road, the steering wheel is still centered, then the alignment can be at your discretion. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, and 19mm socket and ratchet. You'll need a 1/2 inch socket and ratchet and also 1/2 inch wrench, some needle nose pliers, penetrating oil, and a torque wrench.

Raise and support the vehicle and remove the cap, and then remove the lug nuts. If you don't have the luxury of having air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, the wheel is on the ground. Then, raise and support the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and remove the wheel and tire.

You can pull the steering over or turn the steering wheel, so it's easier to access the end of the tie rod. In this shot, the green arrow points to the tie rod and the red arrow points to the steering knuckle. In the next scene, I'm going to shake the front steering a little bit, and what you'll see is that the steering knuckle, again, with the red arrow, moves more than it should, which indicates play in the tie rod. This is how you want to look for whether or not you have a bad tie rod. That's a little difficult to see, so you might want to rewind it a couple times, but you'll see that that steering knuckle that the red arrow is pointing to moves more than the tie rod end.

Next, you want to remove the cotter pin. Hopefully, you can just kind of straighten it out, break off the ends that are bent over, and it will pull out. Mine proves to be more difficult. What I end up doing is just breaking off as much of the pin as I can, and then, I put my wrench on it, and it takes a little bit of pulling but basically the bolt just shears the cotter pin right off after you've gotten most of it broken off. It's a 19mm bolt. Here, I'm going to loosen up the nut and bolt that hold the adjustment sleeve onto the tie rod end, and those are 1/2 inch tools believe it or not. Just standard size 1/2 inch socket and wrench. Now, here I'm putting the tie rod press tool onto the steering knuckle, and tightening it down in preparation for using my impact wrench. You can also just use a regular wrench for this. Now, coat the tie rod end and adjusting sleeve with a good amount of penetrating oil to loosen it up. Let it sit for a little while. Then, you take a measurement on the bottom side from the end of the sleeve right after the end of the tie rod. You get 3-1/4 inches, right out to the end. I'm going to speed it up here. I'm just taking a big adjustable wrench and pulling on to that tie rod end, getting it to move and spin. Then, you actually, on the driver side, turn it clockwise to remove it.

Put the tie rod in. Speed it up as I thread the new tie rod end from 1A Auto in. You can see here I'm using my tape measure, measuring it. For this car, it's a 3-1/4 inches from the end of the sleeve to the end of the tie rod. That will vary by car. If you set it up the same as you took it apart, it should be okay as far as your alignment. That's kind of up to you. If you drive the car and it still goes nice and straight and the steering wheel's straight, then you'll be all right. If it's pulling at all or the steering wheel is not straight, then have it aligned. Then, you insert the tie rod into the steering knuckle. You've just got to work it around a little bit, get it up in there, and then start the bolt on. Tighten this to 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then we will go a little bit further just to get the cotter pin through. You can see I used the wrench just to tighten it just a little bit more so that cotter pin goes through nice and easy. Then, use pair of needle nose pliers to bend the cotter pin over. Now, tighten up the bolt and nut that pinch the adjusting sleeve to 20 to 21 foot-pounds.

Now, put your wheel back on, and yes I know this is the other side. This is the footage I had, but obviously the procedure is the same for either side. You want to put your wheel back on once you're done replacing the tie rod. Put the lug nuts on by hand first. Tighten them up primarily with your wrench or impact wrench and then let the vehicle down on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to anywhere from 100 to 110 foot-pounds and use a star pattern as you're tightening them and then put the center cap back on, and you should be all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer steering tie rod end on this 2000 Lincoln Town Car. It's actually the same as any '81 to 2002 Town Car. Tools you'll need are 13/16 inch and 19 millimeter sockets with a ratchet, a torque wrench, pliers, tie-rod separator fork, hammer, ruler, and a marker or a grease pencil.

We're going to start out. Remove your center cap. If you're using hand tools you'll want to loosen your lug nuts while the wheel's on the ground first, then raise the car with the jack stand, and then remove your lug nuts. I have the benefit of air tools. These are 13/16 inch lug nuts. We'll just speed it up here as we remove those lug nuts and then remove the wheel entire.

Pull or turn your steering wheel so you can have easy access to the tie rod. Apologies here, I didn't get a very good shot of it, but all I'm doing is using a pair of needle nose pliers to break off the ends of the cotter pin, and then pull it out of the tie rod stud. This bolt's 19 millimeters. We'll speed it up here a little bit as we just remove that bolt the rest of the way. Now, right here, on the steering linkage there's a bolt with a nut on the back side that holds a clamp. It's a half inch, which I'm surprised about. It can seem to bounce back and forth between metric and standard, but we want to loosen up this bolt.

Now, we're going to hit the end of the tie rod end with a lot of penetrating oil. Now we want to separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. There are two ways you can go about this. The best way is using the correct tool which is a tie rod and ball joint separator, sometimes called a pickle fork. The other way is you could take your bolt, thread it back on, actually, upside down onto your tie rod end, and then use a hammer to try to force it out. That bolt keeps the tie rod stud from mushrooming and then not being able to go through here, so you'd want to make sure you get the bolt down level with the stud, and then beat on it. This is not always successful. It can cause stress to your steering knuckle, so it's not a hundred percent recommended. Also, if you do it this way, you probably will have problems getting this bolt back off because it will get stuck onto the stud. The right way is with a pickle fork. I do make a minor mistake here. You see I took that nut off. You actually want to loosen that nut and leave it on. You'll see later so that when you do break the tie rod loose the pickle fork doesn't fall and the tie rod or the steering linkage doesn't fall. It's not a big deal, but just a little safer way to do it is to leave that bolt threaded on there so it doesn't come apart too violently. You can see there's an ear on this side which means they want you to go at it just like this. This is one of those times when it's fun not to be nice. I don't have a lot of room here.

So, now what I'm going to do is use a red permanent marker, you can use anything. I mean grease pencil or something would be best. I'm going to really put a bunch of red ink there. That's going to tell me how far in the tie rod was. Now, I'm going to take a large adjustable wrench, and, on these tie rods, clockwise actually is moving them out, so you want to basically just start turning, and this one actually started turning pretty easy.

We'll measure from the end here. I would say it's about eight and three quarters centimeters. For this one, down here, do the same and mark. This'll just give you a rough alignment. After this repair, you should have your car aligned.

Remember on this side it's counterclockwise you can install it. Then up to my mark and one more. Remove the nut. That plastic is a shipping boot, so we want to remove that. If you have paper towels, clean off. Clean out the steering knuckle. I'm just going to push the new tie rod. It's going to be stiff. Push it a little bit. Work it up in there. Get the nut on. Now, we need to torque our nut on here. I've got the torque wrench set to 50 foot-pounds. Then at a brief look, it looks like you pull it just a little tighter to get the cotter pin into it. I'll need a cotter pin. Put it in from the side here. It just needs a little convincing. It's got to get up and over. It doesn't go anywhere. Briefly tighten this bolt here. When I get this tight, it probably should be about 20 to 25 foot pounds. I'm just going to get it pretty tight with my ratchet here.

Now we're going to fast forward through putting the tire back on, thread the lug nuts on by hand. I use my impact wrench just to tighten them preliminarily, and then lower it down to the ground. Torque them to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern, and then put my center cap back on.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to replace a front stabilizer bar link on this 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis, pretty much the same process for a '98 to 2011 Grand Marquis or Ford Crown Victoria. We do the passenger side. Obviously the driver side is the same procedure. We do recommend that you replace these in pairs. Tools you'll need are Jack and Jack Stands, your tire iron or 21mm Socket with a breaker bar, basically what you need to get the wheel and tire off, 15mm and 18mm wrenches and a 5mm Allen wrench.

Start out by removing the wheel cover. You pry off the center cap then there should be a key somewhere in your car, in the glove compartment. Remove the center nut and then pry the wheel cover off. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Then, raise and support the vehicle. We'll loosen them. I'm going to fast forward here as I just remove those lug nuts. Set aside that bracket that holds the hub cap and take the wheel and tire off.

The stabilizer bar is held on, right there, with the bolt. I'll put some penetrating oil on it. There's another bolt down here. On top is a 15mm. I like to put the wrench on there and take another wrench, hook it right in. It's a little tight to get a socket and ratchet on there. We're actually on there with this method. It gives you more leverage. Nice and slow. The bolt should come loose pretty easily. This bolt in here is an 18mm. Do kind of the same thing. Get the wrench on it. Put my 17mm wrench on and pull. Nice and easy. It starts to move. I'm going to look at the stud and see if it's moving. It's starting to move. I'm going to come up through this hole with the 5mm Allen wrench. Put that in there. I'm going to speed up here as I just keep working that wrench with the Allen wrench holding it. It will get difficult to hold that Allen wrench so I'm just giving a shot underneath. I stick a wrench on there to hold the Allen wrench, to give you some more leverage. Just keep fast forwarding here as, like I said, I just work that bolt right off. We'll keep the high speed action going, here, as we go back up to the top and remove that bolt the rest of the way. I go back to using the wrench for some extra leverage as that bolt gets a little more difficult to remove as it gets farther off the stud. I just want to take . I'm using a chisel, and some type of impact tool to drive the top out. It's coming through so far. I'm just using a smaller extension here, to get it the rest of the way out.

The new link from 1A Auto is much easier to use. It has a nut here that you can grab on to with the wrench. This makes it a lot easier to put in. You may want to put in a grease fitting here and a grease fitting down here. Those come with it. Just use a small wrench to put them in. They're already installed. This one points up and away so that's easy to get grease in there.

Here, I basically take the bolts off first, and then, you want to get the bottom in first. What you might need to do is just grab hold of the stud on the bottom and position it so you can get it into the stabilizer bar. Now, use a jack and jack up the lower control arm until you get into a position where you can work the upper stud into the top of the steering knuckle. You can remove your jack and put on the nut on the upper side and use your 15mm wrench to tighten it up and then grab on to a larger wrench, give yourself some extra leverage and get it nice and tight. You don't have to get it incredibly tight. It probably has specifications, around 50-55 ft-lbs but it's pretty hard to get it to work down there so just use a wrench and get it nice and tight. Do the same thing with the lower nut. I was pleasantly surprised on the 1A Auto part, the lock nut was able to go on and it didn't make the stud twist. I was able to get it on, tighten it up and these probably tighten to a spec of 65-70 ft-lbs. It's pretty tough to get any kind of a torque wrench on there. I just got it nice and tight with the wrenches that I had.

Put your wheel and tire back on. Start all the lug nuts with the little bracket for the wheel cover and just preliminary tighten them with the impact wrench or your socket and ratchet. With the wheel on the ground, use a torque wrench and tighten them to about a 100 ft-lbs using a star pattern then put your wheel cover back in place. Put the center safety bolt back in, tighten it up, make sure it's all on there good. Always make sure you put your key back in the glove compartment.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.