Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to do an outer tie rod end on this 2000 Crown Vic, very similar for any of this era of Crown Vics as well as the Town Cars. As far as alignment goes, it's recommended that you have your car aligned after you do a job like this, but if your car is still steering straight down the road, the steering wheel is still centered, then the alignment can be at your discretion. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, and 19mm socket and ratchet. You'll need a 1/2 inch socket and ratchet and also 1/2 inch wrench, some needle nose pliers, penetrating oil, and a torque wrench.
Raise and support the vehicle and remove the cap, and then remove the lug nuts. If you don't have the luxury of having air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, the wheel is on the ground. Then, raise and support the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and remove the wheel and tire.
You can pull the steering over or turn the steering wheel, so it's easier to access the end of the tie rod. In this shot, the green arrow points to the tie rod and the red arrow points to the steering knuckle. In the next scene, I'm going to shake the front steering a little bit, and what you'll see is that the steering knuckle, again, with the red arrow, moves more than it should, which indicates play in the tie rod. This is how you want to look for whether or not you have a bad tie rod. That's a little difficult to see, so you might want to rewind it a couple times, but you'll see that that steering knuckle that the red arrow is pointing to moves more than the tie rod end.
Next, you want to remove the cotter pin. Hopefully, you can just kind of straighten it out, break off the ends that are bent over, and it will pull out. Mine proves to be more difficult. What I end up doing is just breaking off as much of the pin as I can, and then, I put my wrench on it, and it takes a little bit of pulling but basically the bolt just shears the cotter pin right off after you've gotten most of it broken off. It's a 19mm bolt. Here, I'm going to loosen up the nut and bolt that hold the adjustment sleeve onto the tie rod end, and those are 1/2 inch tools believe it or not. Just standard size 1/2 inch socket and wrench. Now, here I'm putting the tie rod press tool onto the steering knuckle, and tightening it down in preparation for using my impact wrench. You can also just use a regular wrench for this. Now, coat the tie rod end and adjusting sleeve with a good amount of penetrating oil to loosen it up. Let it sit for a little while. Then, you take a measurement on the bottom side from the end of the sleeve right after the end of the tie rod. You get 3-1/4 inches, right out to the end. I'm going to speed it up here. I'm just taking a big adjustable wrench and pulling on to that tie rod end, getting it to move and spin. Then, you actually, on the driver side, turn it clockwise to remove it.
Put the tie rod in. Speed it up as I thread the new tie rod end from 1A Auto in. You can see here I'm using my tape measure, measuring it. For this car, it's a 3-1/4 inches from the end of the sleeve to the end of the tie rod. That will vary by car. If you set it up the same as you took it apart, it should be okay as far as your alignment. That's kind of up to you. If you drive the car and it still goes nice and straight and the steering wheel's straight, then you'll be all right. If it's pulling at all or the steering wheel is not straight, then have it aligned. Then, you insert the tie rod into the steering knuckle. You've just got to work it around a little bit, get it up in there, and then start the bolt on. Tighten this to 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then we will go a little bit further just to get the cotter pin through. You can see I used the wrench just to tighten it just a little bit more so that cotter pin goes through nice and easy. Then, use pair of needle nose pliers to bend the cotter pin over. Now, tighten up the bolt and nut that pinch the adjusting sleeve to 20 to 21 foot-pounds.
Now, put your wheel back on, and yes I know this is the other side. This is the footage I had, but obviously the procedure is the same for either side. You want to put your wheel back on once you're done replacing the tie rod. Put the lug nuts on by hand first. Tighten them up primarily with your wrench or impact wrench and then let the vehicle down on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to anywhere from 100 to 110 foot-pounds and use a star pattern as you're tightening them and then put the center cap back on, and you should be all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the stabilizer, or sway bar end link, on this 2000 Lincoln Town Car, same as any '98 to '02. Tools you'll need are a 13/16th socket and ratchet or your tire iron, jack and jack stands, 15 and 18mm wrenches, T40 Torx bit, an adjustable wrench, and a quarter inch wrench or whatever size to grab on to that T40 Torx bit. We're going to start off. Remove your center cap. If you're using hand tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts while the wheel's on the ground first then raise the car off the jack, secure it with the jack stand, and then remove your lug nuts. I have the benefit of air tools. These are 13/16ths lug nuts. We'll just speed it up here as we remove those lug nuts and then remove the wheel and tire. Pull or turn your steering wheel so you can easy access to the tie rod. In order to remove your stabilize link, you then do 2 bolts, one here that is a 18mm and one up here that's a 15mm. What I do on bolts like this that you can only get to with a wrench, put a wrench on it. Then you can hook another wrench on and then carefully push. Gives us more leverage. Loosen it up, same thing down here.
Same thing down here. I'll put this wrench on. I'm going to be pulling this one. I'm going to hook my other wrench. I'm going to pull carefully while it moves. I believe it looks like the whole shaft is spinning. Most likely, this stud is going to spin on you. I going to put the ... and you see right there the wrench is moving and that stud is moving as well. Put the wrench on. This is a T40 Torx bit. I have to give the Lincoln engineers a little bit of grief because this is difficult. They probably have some special tool. Got that T40 Torx bit on there. Now I'm going to put my adjustable wrench on. Tighten it up as much as I can. Now that Torx bit just want to get that one on better here. Sorry you can't really see that probably, but this wrench is holding that Torx bit so I can then spin this here. Eventually it will come apart. What I'm going to have to do is pull this back off, now that it's loose. I'm going to coat this bolt with penetrating oil. 15mm wrench. On this one, I'm going to use a punch. Just punch that right out. Now to continue, I got a quarter-inch wrench here, which is the same size as my Torx bit. I'm going to feed my Torx ... I'm actually going to put my quarter-inch wrench in there, feed my Torx out through the wrench and into the tie rod. I didn't start with this because of the angles.
This actually didn't really work. I had to put it up in there and grab it with the adjustable wrench. Now it does, so I just let the quarter-inch wrench go there. It holds it and I just take the nut off. There's your link out. It's a new link from 1A Auto. You can see it has grease-able fittings. I'm going to put it down in at the bottom first, so get the bottom through. Start my larger nut on and now the top. I'm going to force that into the knuckle. Putting it together is much easier because the link is nice and tight. You can just tighten up the bolts with your wrenches. They probably have Torx specifications, but if you get them nice and tight with the combination wrenches, you'll be good enough. We tighten up the lower one and then tighten up the upper one. Now we're going to fast forward through putting the tire back on. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. I use my impact wrench just to tighten them preliminary then lower it down to the ground, Torx them to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern, and then put my center cap back on.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us at toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
