Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to service and replace the front brakes on this 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis. We're going to show you, obviously, the passenger's side; the driver's side is the same and you want to always do the brakes both sides whenever you're doing them. This is the same for any '98 to '02 Marquis, even the same for the later as well as the Ford Crown Victoria. Tools you'll need are: you'll need a new pad and rotor set from 1AAuto.com, as well as jack and jack stands, 13, 18 and 21mm sockets with ratchet and extension. Obviously, your tire iron can substitute for the 21mm. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for extra leverage, large screwdriver, wire brush, torque wrench, and a large C-clamp.
Start out by removing the wheel cover. You pry off the center cap. Then, there should be a key somewhere in your car in the glove compartment. Remove the center nut and then pry the wheel cover off. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground and then raise and support the vehicle and remove them. I'm going to fast forward here as I just remove those lug nuts, set aside that bracket that holds the hub cap and take the wheel and tire off.
Now, we can check the condition of the brakes. You can see I turned the wheels so there's easy access to the back of the caliper. To check the condition of your disks, run the back of your finger along the disk. Small light grooves are okay. If you feel a ridge at the top, it's either a sign that you want to have your brake rotor turned or get a replacement from 1A Auto. The outside pad looks like it's got some fair life left. You can see here's the metal pad and then the pad itself against the rotor. The inside pad, if we look through here, we see, that's the metal pad then the pad itself and then the rotor. The inside pad is pretty thin. It's in need of replacement.
What you're going to do is remove this bolt and this bolt first. These bolts are 13mm and they should come apart fairly easily. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove the lower bolt and then I remove the upper bolt. With those bolts off, take a screwdriver, put it right under here, pry between your caliper and the caliper bracket and bring the caliper up and off. Actually bring it up in here, just for the time being. Your shoes you just pry and pull right out. There's a line right down the middle here. That's actually the wear mark. It indicates that this outer pad, like I said, has got a little bit of life left, but this inner pad is pretty much at the end of its life.
Now you'll want to remove two larger bolts: one here and one down here. These bolts are 18mm and you're either going to want to use your breaker bar or, if all you have is a ratchet, put your ratchet on here and a piece of pipe. Put the pipe on the ratchet and then pull nice and easy until the bolt starts breaking loose. I'll fast forward, again, as I loosen up that bolt, as well as loosen up the top bolt, and then remove them both. Once that bracket is off, rotor comes right off.
Here's the new rotor from 1A Auto. It goes right on. I just put a lug nut on just to hold things in place. Before you reinstall this caliper bracket, you want to use a wire brush and just clean off these stainless steel slides where the calipers go. The other thing on this is you want to make sure that these slide in and out freely, because that's actually what your caliper slides on. Put this between the steering knuckle and the rotor, take your bolt, push it in from the outside and kind of push it towards the bracket and start turning it clockwise to get it to go in. Get one started, put the other one in and get that started. I'm just going to speed up here as I use socket and ratchet to preliminarily tighten those bolts. Now, tighten and torque these bolts to 90 foot-pounds.
Now, you're going to bring your caliper back down and you're going to want to force your pistons back into the caliper. Take your old brake shoe, put it in there and then you want a large C-clamp. Try and get it as close to the middle as you can and, as you tighten it up slowly, it forces the pistons back into the caliper. Here are the new pads from 1A Auto. The little notches go up actually. Put them in. Push it into place. Put it in and into place. Now on the caliper, you might have to push the slides in a little bit. Put the caliper down, push that in, squeeze this one in and down into place. Now, these bolts that hold the calipers in place go in. Push it in and start turning. Push it in and start turning. Speed up the film here, again, as, again, I just preliminarily tighten those bolts. Here I use a torque wrench and you want to make sure that these are tightened to anywhere between about 15 and 16 foot-pounds.
Straighten the wheels and then remove the lug nut. Put your wheel and tire back on. Start all the lug nuts with the little bracket for the wheel cover and then just preliminarily tighten them with the impact wrench or your socket and ratchet. With the wheel on the ground use a torque wrench and tighten them to about 100 foot pounds, using a star pattern. Then put your wheel cover back in place, put the center safety bolt back in, tighten it up, and make sure it's all on there good.
Always make sure you put your key back in the glove compartment and then whenever you've done work on the brakes, make sure you pump up your brakes, and get the pedal nice and hard before you road test the vehicle. Then, when you road test do a couple of stops. Actually, before you road test, stop from like 5 and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working properly before you road test.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to service the rear brakes on this 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis, same as any Grand Marquis or Ford Crown Victoria, basically the same for 1998 up to 2011. This vehicle does have the disc brakes. The tools you need are a jack and jack stands, your tire iron or a 21mm socket with a ratchet and pipe . I say that because you'll probably need some extra leverage to get those lug nuts loose ., 10mm to 12mm wrenches, a large hammer and a wire brush.
If you have this style wheel cover, you should have a little key in your glove compartment. You pull the little center medallion off, and then, use the key to remove a bolt that holds the wheel cover in place. Then, use a screwdriver to pry off the wheel cover. If you don't have access to air tools you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the rest of the lug nuts and the wheel and tire.
Now, you can inspect the condition of your pads. You can see that the outer pad is looking a little thin. This rotor, if you run the back of your finger along it, it actually feels like it's in okay shape. It probably should be turned down. You can also just replace it with one from 1A Auto. You look back in here and then turn the rotor; you can see this pad is really worn down so they do need to be replaced.
To do that, you'll remove this lower 10mm bolt and this upper 10mm bolt. This lower bolt is 10mm. I'm going to use a wrench. Put it on there like that and then I'm going to use a little bit larger wrench. Hook it on there like that for some extra leverage and these really should come apart pretty easily. I'll fast forward here as I finish removing that bolt. The lower one you just pull out as far as you can. It goes into the control arm. Then remove the upper one. Then once you have those bolts out, just use a large screwdriver and pry the caliper away. Then the inside pad just pulls right out and the outside pad pries out with a screwdriver. Take the rear pad out, and take that front pad off.
Spray around the wheel studs and the center hub and spray it with some penetrating oil and let that sit for awhile. To get this apart, use a nice big hammer. Avoid hitting your lugs. You want to hit the rotor itself.
The rotor comes off; a new rotor from 1A Auto can go right on. It looks a lot prettier. I just like to put a lug nut on just to hold things in place.
The adjusting mechanism in these brakes is the caliper itself. Right here, this is piston. As the brakes wear down, the piston just kind of edges its way out of the caliper. To put the new brake shoes on you need to force that back in. What I've done is I've put my old inside pad back into the caliper and now I have a big C-clamp here and I'll slowly tighten up the C-clamp, and you'll see the piston go back in. It's actually more effective if I use fast motion, and then once you've forced the piston back in, remove the C-clamp. Take the new pads from 1A Auto. This one, this clip, is the inner one. You put it right in. Then this one you kind of have to pull. I'm just wedging my fingers in there and pulling out while I push that down into place. Before you reinstall your caliper use a wire brush and clean off these slides here. Then put your calipers back together. Make sure these slide. As you're putting the caliper back in place you'll probably have to pull these out some. These should slide nice and easy back and forth. If you have any issues you can pull them out, clean them up and put them back in. Now, we're going to slide the top in first. Make sure your pads get onto this slide correctly. Tap it in place if necessary. From here on out it's just a matter of getting those 10mm bolts in and tightened up. To get them in just kind of push them in and move the caliper around a little bit back and forth. Slide it in and out a little bit and you'll feel the bolt get down into the hole and then you can start threading it in. When you tighten them, they should only be tightened to about 12 to 15 foot pounds. Just get them about as tight as you can with a small 10mm wrench, and that is tight enough.
Remove that lug nut that you had holding stuff in place. Put your wheel and tire back on. Start all your lug nuts. Remember to put that bracket that holds the hubcap and then preliminarily tighten the lug nuts. With the car back down on the ground, use a torque wrench. Tighten the lugs to 100 to 120 foot pounds. Use a star pattern as you tighten and then put your hubcap back in place. I generally try and get it on somewhat and then I thread that bolt back in; tighten it up, and then, go around the rest of the hubcap again and make sure it's all seated well. Always make sure you put your key back in the glove compartment. Then, whenever you've done work on the brakes, make sure you pump up your brakes. Get the pedal nice and hard before you road test the vehicle. Then, when you road test, do a couple of stops . actually before you road test, stop from 5 and 10 mph. Make sure the brakes are working properly before you road test.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
