Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
This fuel pump includes a new electrical connector harness. You will need to remove your existing electrical connector and install the new connector provided in order to install your new fuel pump (instructions are included with the pump).
This fuel pump is not a universal fit item. Because your vehicle’s original connector is prone to failure due to corrosion, cracking, loose pin housings, and wire crimp issues, the OE manufacturer has changed the shape of the connector, requiring the install of a new electrical connector during fuel pump service.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Di(2-ethylhexyl)phthalate (DEHP), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to replace the fuel pump and the fuel gauge sending unit in this 2001 Malibu, same as any '97 to '03 Malibu as well as some Cavaliers, some Aleros and Sunfires. if your fuel gauge does not work and also if your vehicle just stops running, what you should listen for is when you turn the key on, if there's a hum from the fuel pump from near the rear wheels. If you don't hear that, then most likely, you need to replace your fuel pump. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands. You'll want to jack the rear of the car up just about as high as you can and secure it safely. You'll need Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers, 7, 10, and 13 millimeter sockets with ratchet and extension, a hammer, and an impact tool, which is a chisel or a large screwdriver, and pliers.
Okay. In this first part, we show you how to release the fuel pressure. If your fuel pump is gone, then you probably do not need to do this, but we show you how to do it anyways. The first thing you want to do is de-pressurize the fuel system, so basically, with the car running, you come in here to this fuse center, and now you're going to want to pull out the fuel pump relay, which is number 18, the small one here, which is this one here. Okay. You pull that out and after a while, your car will stop running because it runs out of fuel. An 8-millimeter wrench, disconnect your negative battery cable. Right here the straps that hold the tank up. What you want to do is take some penetrating oil and spray the tops of the bolts on those straps. You've got fuel neck that connects right here. We're going to use a regular screwdriver and loosen up that clamp. You want to grab onto that hose and just twist it and pull it and break it free and then pull it off.
Okay. There's a connector right here. You want to pull this safety tab out of this one and pull that connector out and there. Just remove that, and it probably doesn't hurt to pull this safety strap out, disconnect this harness, and disconnect these harnesses. As you look up behind the gas tank, you see a fuel filter, okay, and this little green clip. What you want to do is... To better illustrate this, I'm going to show you on a new sending unit that I've actually replaced in this vehicle and down on the ground so you can see it easily.
These are our new clips, so you can see how they work here, just like up there, you pry this like that and then you kind of pinch and push that through and then if this is your line, it comes right out. One more time here. You pry and pull this tab up, pinch and push it, and pull it out. You can see here I have it open and pushed up and out, and then I can pull the line off, and I stop there because fuel will leak out, so you want to have a catch can underneath. A little bit of fuel comes out, and the same thing for this upper one. Clip and push up.
I'm going to go to the upper clip. I'm just using that screwdriver because my fingers can't get in there very well, and if you push the line on a little tighter and then try and push that clip, that usually helps as well. This goes here. Basically, what you need to do is push it on, pinch the sides really well, and push it off. Pull this out here, so you basically want to press here and then start pulling on that plastic and pull it off.
There's a heat shield between the exhaust and the tank that if you loosen up, it makes it a lot easier. Pull the black pin out. Once you remove that pin, then there's a 10-millimeter and a 3.7-millimeter bolt to remove. Once you remove those, the shield is then loose enough that it flexes and moves out of your way when you need it to. Here, I'm removing those 7-millimeter bolts, and the only difficult one is the one that's up in the front and the center. You just have to pull or push the exhaust pipe out of the way to get to it.
You see we've got our tank being supported in the middle, and now we're going to remove the driver's side strap. Here, I just use a 13-millimeter socket, ratchet and extension. I'm just doing the beginning to show you that it can be done pretty easily with hand tools, and this is where preparing it beforehand with penetrating oil comes in very big. Now, I'm going to pull my straps down. The passenger side strap, you can actually twist and pull down and out, but then lower the jack and carefully bring the tank down. Nothing will come out of the large filler tube, because there is a valve that prevents that, but you may get gas coming out of some of the smaller lines, so be careful, and it pulls down and out.
A pair of needle-nosed pliers. This one right here, you just push it on, squeeze the edges here. It'll pull right off. You've got a little locking tab on the top of this connector. Push it on. Take your needle-nosed pliers and work the tab right out. Disconnect this, and then the little tab here, disconnect that harness. Let's see here. I can't get these two lines out of this clamp, either. I need a chisel and a hammer. A screwdriver would probably work as well. I'm going to tap this locking ring in a different ... excuse me.
Take this out. Remove our old O ring. Make sure there's no debris in there. Put the new O ring. Put in our new assembly. Okay. We've got a square connector. Our new sending unit has an oval connector. That's because this unit fits a number of different vehicles, so what we're going to do is plug in a new lead and put it in this safety lock there. Okay, so now these all match. We have a larger black and a narrower black. The larger black goes to this first wire. The narrower black goes to the black and white stripe, and then a purple and a brick, so what I'm going to do is tap into our existing harness, using wire taps. That'll work quite easily.
I'll fast forward here as I make those other three connections. Again, I use the wire taps to tap into the existing harness. To me, it's cleaner just to leave that old connector on there the way it is, and it works just the same. Fast forward. As I put the tank back up in there, obviously it's better to have less fuel in the tank, but if your fuel pump quits, you don't always get to choose. When you have the sending unit out, you can pour some gas out into a gas can, lighten the load some. Put it up in the there. Put the jack back under, move it back and forth to get it to go up in there nice and clean.
Keep the work pace up as I put the straps up in place. Start the bolts. I'll use an impact wrench to get them most of the way, and then at the end, tighten them up with a regular wrench, just to make sure you don't over-tighten them. Okay, so tightening up those straps. Then, after I tighten up the straps, reconnect all the harnesses into the body junction block there, and then reconnect the large line to the canister, which requires a good, firm push in. We're reconnecting the fuel lines here. The new unit comes with some little green line protectors. Make sure you take those out, obviously, and then reconnect the lines. Not a very good shot of it here. Sorry, but it's putting them on and locking the clips down into them.
Now, real fast here, make sure you put that shield back in place. Use the clip that clips it in, the 10-millimeter bolt, and the three 7-millimeter bolts. Okay. Make sure you put the clamp back up there if it fell off the filler neck and reconnect the hose to the filler neck and put that clamp on there and tighten it up. Put our fuel pump relay back in. Okay now what you want to do is cycle the key a couple times. Check to make sure the fuel gauge is working. Check underneath make sure there's no fuel leaks or anything.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the fuel pump and sending unit on this 2002 Chevy Suburban with the 5.3 liter V8 engine. The items you'll need for this are a new fuel pump and sending unit from 1AAuto.com, 8 and 15 millimeter socket and ratchet with an extension, flat blade screwdriver, pry bar, pliers, hammer, an assistant, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening these two hose clamps. It's that hose but we actually end up loosening the hose clamp that's up near the spare tire on the other end of the hose from where we pointed as you can see here. That'll make it a little bit easier when we actually get the tank down. Once you loosen those hose clamps, just pull those hoses free. You may need to use a pry bar to help get that free. You can also use a large flat blade screwdriver.
Now, you want to take a jack stand and just put it underneath your gas tank. Next you want to remove the gas tank straps. To do that, you want to remove this 15 millimeter bolt, and this one on the other strap. We'll just fast forward as Don does that. Now just pull that strap up and out of that slot. Do the same thing with the other one.
Now, have an assistant hold one end of the gas tank while you lower the jack and reposition it. On top of the gas tank, just pull this hose free from the bracket, and then go down to the end that's lowered. You'll see this hose. Just pull that free and then pull the hose from this bracket on the side of the tank. Then, do the same thing with the one below it. Then, you keep freeing those hoses by pulling out the brackets that line the tank. Now, on fuel pump and sending unit you'll want to just push the tabs and the harnesses and disconnect them. Then using a pair of pliers just push the tabs on this hose to pry the hose off. Just pull them free. Now, at the end of the gas tank closer to the front of the vehicle, you'll want to just pull these hoses out. Then, reach back behind here and just pull up on these hoses you disconnected from the fuel pump sending unit earlier. Using duct tape, just tape up the holes on the lower end of the gas tank. You removed those hoses at the beginning of the procedure. We want to make sure it has no leaks. Rremove the jack stand, lower the back end of the gas tank down. Just carefully slide it out. Then, you can set your gas tank down and then just disconnect this hose. If the gas tank is too heavy, just dump some of the gas out into the proper container.
Now, to remove this ring, you want to just lift up on this plastic tab on the side here and then, using a hammer and screwdriver you want to just twist that ring, making sure the that tab stays up. Once the ring breaks free, lift it up and over the sensor and pull it off. Now your fuel pump and sending unit are pulled out of the tank. You want to make sure that you drain the gas that's stored inside of it by just holding it upside down.
On the left is the old fuel pump and sending unit. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see that they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Push this arm into place and then you want to swap over these clips, just pry out on them and slide them off. Then slide them into place on your new sending unit.
Lower your new fuel pump and sending unit down into place. Put the ring back on. Then using a hammer and flat blade screwdriver, just hit it back into place.
Now, take the fuel tank and put the front end up first. Then, you can reconnect that hose in there that you can only really access when your tank's down. Then you just want to clip these hoses back into that bracket. Push that tank back up into place, not all the way because you still have some things to connect up there but pull them in there and then put the stand underneath it, with the back end lower than the front. Then push these hoses back into your sending unit. Reconnect those two harnesses. Then you just push these hoses back down into this bracket. Make sure you push them into the other bracket all the way up to the back of the tank. This goes back. Then push this hose back into place and re-clip it to the side of the tank. I will just fast forward as Don raises the tank the rest of the way back up. Now, you just want to remove that duct tape. Now, reconnect these two hoses and slide the hose clamps into place. Then just tighten them up with your socket and ratchet.
Slide the rear gas tank strap into this slot and then feed it up with the bolt in and tighten it up. Then repeat the process for the gas tank strap on the other side, and you're all set. We hope this video helps you out.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the fuel pump and sending unit on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. It's the same part and similar process on these Monte Carlos from 2000 to 2005. The items that you'll need for this include a new fuel pump and sending unit from 1AAuto.com, 10mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, hammer, wire pliers, wire cutters and regular pliers.
We're going to purge the system. We have the vehicle running, and we're going to pull out the fuel pump relay so the engine stops. On our vehicle, this repair fixed the nonworking fuel gauge, and you can see we just put the relay in there, if your fuel pump's not working, then obviously that's not going to work. All right, you really don't need to do that.
Disconnect the center belt and then pull your seats forward. This works in both the Monte Carlo as well as the Impala, Grand Prix, and things like that it's the same. Then you pull the trim and carpet, and there are a series of 10mm nuts that hold a plate. We're going to fast-forward here as we remove all those.
Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry up on the panel. Then pull the panel up and off those studs. Now on your sending unit, you want to pull up on this pin, disconnect this harness, lift up on this tab, and disconnect this harness. Then, to remove these fuel lines, you want to push them in, then push down on the tab, and then pull them free. That's what you do on the two outside fuel lines.
On the center one, there's actually two tabs on either side of it, so after you've removed the two outside ones, you can then just push the tabs on the center one and pull it free. Using flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, you want to line up the screwdriver on one of these pins and hammer it so it turns that ring. Once the ring unclips, you can lift it up and off the sending unit. You will have to angle it and spin it around a bit until you can find a way to pull it up and off.
Now pull the sending unit up and out. You'll hear it start to drain, and you do want to make sure that it's entirely drained so you don't spill gasoline all over the inside of your car. Once you're sure that all of the gas is out it, just lift it up and out. Take your new one and then just apply this level sensor to it.
On the left is the old one; on the right is the new sending unit from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. You will need to take these fuel line clips off of your old sending unit and put them onto your new one. To do that, you just pry out on the tab on them, pull them free, remove these packing caps, push that clip into place, and repeat the process with the other one.
Okay, so GM uses these very small connectors and they were susceptible to problems, so most of our new fuel pumps come now with a different connector that has larger contacts. You have to cut the old connector off. I mean, you couldn't leave it on there, but cut the old connector off.
It comes with a new connector which is all color coded, purple, gray, black, and black with a white strip. We've cut these four off, and we'll strip about a 1/4 of an inch off. Then these connectors are two different sizes. The blue ones are a little larger, so I'm going to use a blue one on the gray and the black wire. You put the connector on, there's metal inside, make sure the metal gets down over where you've stripped crimping pliers.
Actually, put the pliers on. We'll just fast-forward that as we repeat the same process for the other four wires. We're just crimping the connectors onto the vehicle side of the harness first. Now take the wires, match up the colors, and push them into those splices. Then just clamp it to lock the wire in. We'll fast-forward as Mike does the rest of the wires. Now wrap those splices in electrical tape. You want to make sure that you close off the ends really well to seal the connections from dirt and moisture.
Feed your new fuel pump and sending unit back down into the fuel tank. You're obviously taking care and making sure that the wires are out of the way and the fuel lines pull them out of the way as you feed it down in. Fit this ring back down under the fuel lines, and then line up those slots with the tabs. You want to make sure that none of your harnesses get pinched underneath this ring.
Once you have it lined up, push it down. Then you have to twist this ring clockwise. To do that you just use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, and you can use these tabs to help to turn it. Once the ring's on all the way, you will have to remove one of these posts, and we just use a pair of pliers. Ours is corroded enough where it wasn't really much of a problem to remove it. You will have to remove it for this new larger harness to fit, and then just reconnect that harness.
Then reconnect this other harness to your pressure sensor and push the fuel lines back into place. Our fuel gauge on this car didn't work before and this ended up being the problem. When you start the car, just make sure you can hear it all working, and you can see here on our fuel gauge it's showing the proper level. Now just replace this pan and those 10mm nuts that hold it into place and tighten those up. Now put your seats back up and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
GM used these very small connectors and they were susceptible to problems. Most of our new fuel pumps come now with a different connector that has larger contacts. You basically have to cut the old connector off. You couldn't leave it on there. Cut the old connector off.
It comes with a new connector, which is all color coded: purple, gray, black, black with white stripe. So, we've cut these four off and we'll strip about a quarter of an inch off. Then these connectors are two different sizes. The blue ones are a little larger, so I'm going to use a blue one on the gray and the black wire. I put the connector on. There's metal inside. Make sure the metal gets down over where you've stripped, crimping pliers. I actually put the pliers on. Now take the wires and match up the colors and push them into those splices. Then just clamp it to lock the wire in. We'll fast forward as Mike does the rest of the wires.
Now wrap those splices in electrical tape. On some cars . you'll notice on this Monte Carlo that we did this procedure on . there will be posts in the way of this harness and you will have to remove one of those posts so that you can fit the harness in there.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
